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Shed base queries...

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andyoxon:
Thanks ferret.

I have looked at the slope.  From the top end (inspection cover level) to the far end, the fall is one brick (or 2.5").  In other words I laid the 3M pipe flat on the metal inspection  cover to the top of a brick in the middle, and then from this middle brick on to a brick (flat on the grass) at the other end (checking pipe was level).

I could build a mini 'retaining wall' with the concrete blocks I have, just the other side of the inpection cover at the top end,  and level, then dig this top end out and level with the other end - that should work.

ferret:
yep sound's about right to me,

of course no warranty is given or implied by this statement ;)

andyoxon:
I may not bother with a mini 'retaining wall', but make a small slope down to shed and make sure I wood preserve it well.

andyoxon:
I've just moved my paving slabs, 1 ton sand, & cement to the back...  Not doing the base today but some queries:

The sand is quite damp.  How dry does it need to be before attempting a dry sand-cement mix -  and be able to bed the slabs before it 'sets'..?

Should I go for cement:sand at 1 to 8, or 1 to 10..? 

What's the best way to support the edge of the cement sand slab base?  On two sides the area has a defined turf border, but on the other sides it's just open loose soil?

marbeaux knows best.:
What us constructionl boys call a weak mix is usually 1 of cement to 12 of sand, (1 to 12).

For the garden it would be normal to lay it to falls; generally 1 to 50 should be OK. Laying   paving slabs on a 2" sand  bed (no cement is needed) is standard practice. Place four spots of 1 to 12 weak mix mortar near to where each corner will be and tamp each slab  down firmly.

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