A tail of hills, views, food and fun.
It's a ride that Mr P did a few years ago with Mlle P, and one that I had considered last year as pert of a ride to Applecross. Originally we have decided to do a 200km loop to and from Ullapool, via Poolewe, Achnasheen and Garve but Mr P took fright at the traffic on the road from Garve to Ullapool and I took fright at the distance. We resolved to set off, meet assorted family on the way and see how far we got.
It was a lovely morning, as we set off from the cottage to Ullapool. We were racing the ferry - knowing that its load of Monday morning traffic would be overtaking us on the road from Ullapool to the Dundonnell turn.
We made good progress along the road, pushed by a tail wind. There are long straight stretches here, which means fast traffic. The counter is that the road is mainly flat as it runs alongside Loch Broom, and there are good sightlines.
We were held up briefly by some cycle tourists, but burned them up with a cheery 'Hi!', knowing that the climb up Corrieshallack Gorge awaited.
The climb was way more benign than it looks in a car, and I actually thought there was a mile or so more to go when we rounded the corner and could see the junction ahead. We turned right (15.5miles) and crossed the gorge, then paused briefly at a viewing point with spectacular view down Loch Broom, back towards Ullapool.
Mr P asked me to photograph him against the view, resplendent in his Eddie Izzard top. I managed to catch my leg on my chain ring, as I got the camera out. A van driver in the lay-by, happily taking a break, quickly looked the other way and started up his engine. Posing Lycra cyclists obviously not his speciality.
The route from here has spectacular views of An Teallach and then a wonderful long descent back to sea level from the 350m we had climbed. 5 miles or so at an average of 30mph, with a peak of 45.4 Sheer delight!
We stopped at the Dundonnell Hotel for coffee and home made biscuits; the others had caught us up in the car. It was probably just as well they hadn't followed us down the descent! I finally noticed what the chainring had done to my leg.
Leaving the hotel Mr P adopted the role of shepherd. At least that's what he told me he was doing...
There were a succession of medium climbs and descents as we wound our way along the coast. A 170m climb just past Badbea and then, after we had passed Gruniard Island and Bay a nasty 110m climb of 13%. I was pleased to see a vintage car at the top in the same state as I was.
At 53 miles we stopped for lunch, at the cafe in Poolewe having passed the aquatic delights of a submarine fuelling station and some water lilies.
After lunch the car party backtracked to visit Inverewe gardens and we pressed on. Two more climbs of 140 and 130m and well, just more views!
The final 6 or so miles to Kinlochewe was a bit of a drag, into what was now a strong headwind and the sun hidden by cloud. Loch Maree disappointed, apart from a few sunlit glories.
Finally we stopped for food at the new cafe in Kinlochewe, relaxing and weeble counting. 80 wonderful miles.
