Tubeless asymmetric 36 hole rims?

[LittleWheelsandBig]

I am looking towards a possible winter project using some new rims that I would build onto existing 36 hole hubs. Ideally the rims would be silver, tubeless compatible, with a hooked bead and asymmetric. Disc-only is fine. Laterally stiff is good, as is cheap and fairly light. Not interested in logos or brand names. Suggestions?

[Arno]

Kinlin XR-26RTS   https://spacycles.co.uk/m20b0s116p3833/KINLIN-XR-26RTS ?

[LittleWheelsandBig]

That looks like it ticks pretty much every box. Thanks.

[Frank9755]

IME asymmetric rims are a pain for tubeless.
The reason is that, on my Kinlin ones at least, I have to replace the rim tape every time I reinflate them after the tyre seal has been broken. This is because the tape always indents over the spoke holes when it has been in use for a while and the indents are not covered by the uninflated tyre on an asymmetric rim, as they are on a symmetric one. So it will not reinflate until those indents have been covered with new tape.
I understand the benefits in wheel strength but will not have asymmetric rims again for this reason.

[neilrj]

You'll need a tapered valve washer so the valve nut pulls the valve square.

[LittleWheelsandBig]

HK’s asymmetric rims on her Hunt wheels don’t have any problems with re-sealing after I pop a bead, top up sealant and reinflate.

[Frank9755]

HK’s asymmetric rims on her Hunt wheels don’t have any problems with re-sealing after I pop a bead, top up sealant and reinflate.

Interesting.  Maybe it is a question of degree of assymetry of the holes, or maybe a different tyre would work if it covers them a bit better when uninflated.
FWIW my rims are Kinlin XR31 with Schwalbe Pro Ones and it is new tape every time.   

[LittleWheelsandBig]

I tend to pop the bead furthest away from the spoke holes. That might be the reason I don’t seem to have issues reinflating the tyres.

[Frank9755]

pop the bead

Sounds good, but what does that mean?

[LittleWheelsandBig]

To top up sealant, I partially remove and refit the tyre on one side only, the side where the bead might overlap the spoke holes.

[Feanor]

I'm very much a beginner with tubeless.
Why do you need to pop the rim to top up the sealant?
Is it to remove old sealant?

I can do this using the syringe with milkit valves, which have a secondary valve behind the main valve core, which allows for syringe insertion wiile retaining partial pressure (a few psi) in the tyre.

Do other valves not have similar arrangements, or is this a milkit-specific thing?

[LittleWheelsandBig]

I prefer looking in the tyre to check the condition and amount of remnant sealant and to remove it as required. Others prefer to work blind.

[Frank9755]

To top up sealant, I partially remove and refit the tyre on one side only, the side where the bead might overlap the spoke holes.

Got you - makes sense if you can do it that way.
With mine the seal hasn't always held when deflated so that hasn't been an option.