Rusty spokes and a seized lock ring

[Christophe]

Evening.

After a couple of years of negelct I've finally got round to taking my Steamroller to bits and giving it a clean up and have two issues.

Spokes on the back wheel are showing signs of rust with a few rust spots here and there. Nothing major but should I be concerned?

The lockring also appears to have seized. I did grease it when putting on originally but stuck pretty fast. I tried to lever it off by extending my lockring tool with a seat post but the tool snapped! Is there anything i can use to tempt it off. Its a steel ring on an aluminium hub body. Don't particularly want to go spraying WD 40 around just in case it gets in to the sealed bearings. The hub itself is running really smoothly which is a miracle after being unused and caked in salt and grit for a long time. And before you ask I am aware it has a left hand thread.

Any tips would be gratefully received.

Cheers

Chris

[LittleWheelsandBig]

You should pull the thread off the hub before the tool breaks. Try again, with a new tool obviously.

[Christophe]

I've ordered a Park tool which hopefully should do the job. The other tool was ancient - acquired from my 80 year old next door neighbour. Luckily thr hub is double fixed so do have the oher side to use when the current cog wears out.

BTW anyone know also whay I could use to polish up the hub. The finish is looking pretty mottled.

[simonp]

I’ve never had that much trouble getting a lockring off.

I’d use plusgas rather than WD40. I had to soak the sprockets in that several times before I could get them off, recently. I guess taking them off every several months is probably a worthwhile thing to do. It’s also a good idea to wear some sturdy gloves when using the chain whip to get the sprocket off. DAHIKT.

[Ian H]

Just in case...you are undoing it anti-clockwise?

[simonp]

Just in case...you are undoing it anti-clockwise?

OP did say they were aware it was LH thread.

One point to note is that applying a tightening force first can help to crack the corrosion.

[Ian H]

Just in case...you are undoing it anti-clockwise?

OP did say they were aware it was LH thread.

One point to note is that applying a tightening force first can help to crack the corrosion.

Sorry. Read it and missed that.  Must admit my lock-ring tool is a hammer and robust screwdriver (the kind where the shaft runs the full length of the handle).

[Reg.T]

Just in case...you are undoing it anti-clockwise?

Is that what you really meant, Ian? Or do you undo yours 'blind' from the NDS to make it more challenging?

[Ian H]

Just in case...you are undoing it anti-clockwise?

Is that what you really meant, Ian? Or do you undo yours 'blind' from the NDS to make it more challenging?

Can't tell my left from my right.  Clockwise,  I should have said.  Or kept quiet.

[Torslanda]

My weapons of choice would be a heat gun, a freezing spray such as Wurth Rost Off Ice or Normfest Super Crack, an old pedal spindle which makes a great punch and a 1lb hammer.

Warm it, freeze it, shock it.

[Jonah]

ACH'S finest technician Col used Plus Gas and a vice on mine - X3 bike shops gave up but he knew it would come off.

[Christophe]

Finally got round to fettling at the weekend. Park Tool lock ring tool did the job. Good solid hefty piece of kit.

Also found out what happens to rusty spokes. They break. A lot. Cleaned up the bike and took her out for a spin the other week which didn't last long as had 5 spokes break in the middle in very quick succession. Rebuilt the wheel at the weekend and am riding to work on it this week.