Author Topic: Cable disc brakes (Read 3927 times)

ElyDave · « **on:** 26 May, 2019, 10:59:34 am »

I've used the BB7 Roads before, but others have also suggested TRP Spyre. The TRP ones are about £20 more expensing, without rotors whic is not so much of an issue as I have two spare rotors anyway.

Question is, are the TRP's £20 better?

These are to be used in the rebuild of my Cruzbike post crash

Brucey · « **Reply #1 on:** 26 May, 2019, 11:17:56 am »

IMHO the answer is 'no'.

cheers

Torslanda · « **Reply #2 on:** 26 May, 2019, 11:58:54 am »

BB7 are - with regular maintenance - probably the best cable calipers. Limited rotor choice because the tangs on the pads can foul but as long as you use simple 6 bolts they're strong and easy to fettle. One of the very few calipers that allow asjustment of both pads independently.

TRP have a (possibly) over complex system which uses twin levers to apply pressure to both pads evenly as opposed to the disc warping of BB7 and other 'single pull' calipers. They require - at least IMO - stripping and coating in anti-sieze before use. As long as they are maintained they give good feel and reasonably long life. Several uber/Roo riders have used them and the rate tey break stuff is frightening!

Perhaps you would consider the TRP HyRd? Cable operated, dual piston hydraulic brakes with the master cylinder piggy backed on the caliper. Again, keep them clean and adjusted correctly and you will have powerful and reliable brakes. They do however require 'compressionless' outer cable and are not cheap but what price good stoppers?

Paul H · « **Reply #3 on:** 26 May, 2019, 12:24:45 pm »

I have both, my experience is no difference in stopping power, BB7's a lot easier to live with. other difference is the TRP's are sleek compared to the Avids, if you have to fit around something like a rack that helps.
Are you looking for long or short pull? If long MTB type, the TRP version is Spyke and the price difference between those and MTB BB7's is more than the difference between the short pull road versions.

ElyDave · « **Reply #4 on:** 26 May, 2019, 12:40:49 pm »

Cheers all, road versions here, TRP road levers on a recumbent.

I've used BB7 roads on my other recumbent and am happy enough with them, so will do so again based on this. I can test mount one from the other bike to check rack clearance.

TYP HyRD - fugly as sin, I'm not fouling my bike with those

ElyDave · « **Reply #5 on:** 26 May, 2019, 01:06:39 pm »

found them cheapest at Spa Cycles.

Oddly they had the TRP Spyres cheaper than the BB7 S, but stuck with what I know.

Paul H · « **Reply #6 on:** 26 May, 2019, 01:16:59 pm »

Quote from: ElyDave on 26 May, 2019, 01:06:39 pm

found them cheapest at Spa Cycles.

Oddly they had the TRP Spyres cheaper than the BB7 S, but stuck with what I know.

Did you get the S version? What makes it worth £30 a caliper more than the standard road version?

ElyDave · « **Reply #7 on:** 26 May, 2019, 01:28:19 pm »

The S version is stainless steel and different finish - black will go better with the frame I think. I've found it a very robust coating so far, not got a comparison with the standard version though.

The SL version has titanium components at 25g lighter.

frankly frankie · « **Reply #8 on:** 26 May, 2019, 04:16:15 pm »

Quote from: ElyDave on 26 May, 2019, 10:59:34 am

I've used the BB7 Roads before, but others have also suggested TRP Spyre.

Question is, are the TRP's £20 better?

Not better at all - regardless of price, the BB7s have more stopping power and hold their adjustment better.

That said, there are pros and cons. The biggest pros for the Spyre are:
* initial setup and centring of the calipers much simpler than the BB7.
* use of 'standard' Shimano-fit pads gives a much bigger after-market choice of materials/prices, better availability if caught out on tour.

quixoticgeek · « **Reply #9 on:** 26 May, 2019, 07:03:20 pm »

The main issue I've had with my TRP Spyres is that getting replacement pads is a right faff. The TRP ones that come with the calipers are great, but noone sells them. I've tried some from uber bike, and from nuke proof, and neither has been as good as the ones that come with the caliper. I've just had something go wrong with the front caliper on my bike, I'm not sure what it is. I've ordered a new one, will then service the old one and use it as a spare, or put it on the new bike.

J

mcshroom · « **Reply #10 on:** 26 May, 2019, 07:19:04 pm »

I bought a pair of these trp pads from Chainreaction a couple seeks ago month. They are listed as 'TRP Parabox' pads, but look identical to the Spyres to me. The pads are exactly the same shape as the Shimano B01S pads I had in a spares box, which are also supposed to fit.. - https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/trp-parabox-disc-brake-pads/rp-prod143202

bludger · « **Reply #11 on:** 27 May, 2019, 12:35:09 am »

I have trp spyres. Haven't had to swap the pads yet but they work terrifically and are very easy to keep adjusted and snug, I recommend them heartily. Especially doing a long hilly tour, all you need do if the draw becomes a bit long is pop a 3mm key into the caliper each side, tighten up, then half turn loose and continue riding. 30 second job max.

Cudzoziemiec · « **Reply #12 on:** 27 May, 2019, 12:37:50 pm »

LBS told me the Spyre pads are the same as Deore, but that could be just in shape not compound.

quixoticgeek · « **Reply #13 on:** 27 May, 2019, 12:40:02 pm »

Quote from: Cudzoziemiec on 27 May, 2019, 12:37:50 pm

LBS told me the Spyre pads are the same as Deore, but that could be just in shape not compound.

Correct. Finding pads that fit isn't a problem, finding good pads that fit, that's my challenge...

J

McWheels · « **Reply #14 on:** 27 May, 2019, 07:10:13 pm »

If it's pads you want, I've found these to be pretty good. https://www.discobrakes.com/?s=0&t=0&c=14&p=100&tb=001

Cudzoziemiec · « **Reply #15 on:** 27 May, 2019, 08:30:25 pm »

Quote from: McWheels on 27 May, 2019, 07:10:13 pm

If it's pads you want, I've found these to be pretty good. https://www.discobrakes.com/?s=0&t=0&c=14&p=100&tb=001

What advantage do those semi-metallic pads have over sintered or organic? I've understood that sintered gives better performance in wet weather, organic lasts longer and wears the pads less. How do semi-metallic fit into this range?

quixoticgeek · « **Reply #16 on:** 27 May, 2019, 08:32:59 pm »

Quote from: Cudzoziemiec on 27 May, 2019, 08:30:25 pm

Quote from: McWheels on 27 May, 2019, 07:10:13 pm
If it's pads you want, I've found these to be pretty good. https://www.discobrakes.com/?s=0&t=0&c=14&p=100&tb=001
What advantage do those semi-metallic pads have over sintered or organic? I've understood that sintered gives better performance in wet weather, organic lasts longer and wears the pads less. How do semi-metallic fit into this range?

I thought it was the other way round, and that Organic pads wore really quickly ?

J

Cudzoziemiec · « **Reply #17 on:** 27 May, 2019, 08:37:22 pm »

Is it? I could have got it confused.

Brucey · « **Reply #18 on:** 27 May, 2019, 09:23:23 pm »

pads vary but in general

- organic- high wear rate in the wet, acceptable wear rate in the dry, can be kind to discs
- sintered- much lower wear rate in the wet.
- semi metallic- like organic but can trade friction/wear rate/disc wear rate

There are at least a dozen different parameters by which disc pads can be rated and characterised, some of which are to some extent contradictory, e.g. long wear life also means a longer time for pads to bed in, moreso if the discs are already slightly worn. No single pad type is strong in all areas, it is a question of choosing your priorities.

cheers

Kim · « **Reply #19 on:** 27 May, 2019, 09:46:29 pm »

The other advantage of organic pads is they're a bit less inclined to make rubbing noises.

I use sintered pads on my road-going recumbents, and they last for ages. Not sure what's in my MTB's brakes, they're still on the stock pads. Probably organic...

mcshroom · « **Reply #20 on:** 27 May, 2019, 10:02:51 pm »

My MTB has the ones Halfords fitted on it, which are organic Shimano ones. The discs on it actually say to only use that sort of pad.

Brucey · « **Reply #21 on:** 27 May, 2019, 10:19:22 pm »

IIRC shimano call their organic pads 'resin' pads. Some of their discs say 'resin pads only' and appear to be made of a slightly softer stainless steel.

cheers

LittleWheelsandBig · « **Reply #22 on:** 27 May, 2019, 10:23:44 pm »

HK has organic pads in the Shimano brakes on her Kinesis commuter. They seem to work well and last longer than the 105 chain and cassette but not nearly as long as the Almotion tyres.

quixoticgeek · « **Reply #23 on:** 01 June, 2019, 10:00:28 pm »

Couldn't find an EV for the Spyre but did find a strip down diagram from another forum.

After swapping to a new caliper on the bike, I was willing to take the old one apart.

Seems the contents of the caliper is mostly road grime and dust...

There appears to be no grease on any of the innards. When I reassemble this, where should I be applying grease?

Something isn't right with one of the caliper adjust bolts. I'm hoping the thread isn't stripped, but won't know for sure. Until I've cleaned it all.

J

Brucey · « **Reply #24 on:** 01 June, 2019, 10:19:10 pm »

well done! You seem to have (somehow) avoided the worst of any corrosion that might have occurred. The parts that need grease include the thrust bearings and the ramp bearings; you shouldn't add to much because it may migrate to the pads with inevitable results. The grease both lubricates and (hopefully) inhibits corrosion. Unfortunately it also mixes with pad wear debris and (over time) turns into an abrasive sludge, hence you ought to repeat the caliper overhaul at intervals, either every set of pads or every other set of pads seems about right.

The pad adjuster screw threads can be retapped and (ideally) new screws fitted if you can get them; IIRC they are a standard M-series thread. I have used a few turns of PTFE tape in place of blue (paste type) threadlock on these screws. If you use nothing at all then they tend to adjust themselves as you ride.

If you manage to rebuild the old caliper to GWO then I'd suggest that you can rotate the three calipers around whenever you change pads, and aim to usually have a freshly cleaned/rebuilt caliper (with good pads in it) ready to go.

cheers