130mm OLN wheels in 135mm spaced frame.

[Andrew Br]

Helen is about to pull the trigger on a custom Ti frame for road use only.

I and a few others have persuaded her to future proof the frame as much as possible by asking for a disc tab on the rear even if she's going for rim brakes initially.
Her first choice wheels for this bike will be standard road wheels which are, I assume 130mm OLN.
Is it possible/sensible to use a longer axle with spacers if the frame is 135mm wide (135mm because this seems to be the new standard for disc road bikes).
Alternatively will a 130mm Ti frame "spring" enough to accommodate 135mm wheels at a later date ?
Or 132.5 mm as a compromise ?

Questions, questions............

Would appreciate any input.
TIA.

[mrcharly-YHT]

If getting a customer TI frame, why not get a rear wheel that is 135mm?

Factory stock wheels are usually inferior.

Spa cycles will build you a suitable wheel.

Given the stories of cracking on Ti welds, I wouldn't try springing a Ti frame.

[Chris N]

First, talk to the framebuilder.

Is it possible/sensible to use a longer axle with spacers if the frame is 135mm wide (135mm because this seems to be the new standard for disc road bikes).

Yes.  You may not even need a new axle.

Alternatively will a 130mm Ti frame "spring" enough to accommodate 135mm wheels at a later date ?

I'm doing it the other way - running a 135mm hub in a 130mm Ti frame.  It's ok, no problems so far.

Or 132.5 mm as a compromise ?

Works ok on my (steel) Roadrat with 130mm (fixed) and 135mm (geared) hubs.

[Biggsy]

Does Helen fancy using a Campag cassette?  If yes, consider having the frame 130mm, or 132.5mm if ok for 135mm hub*.  If no, just stick with 135mm hubs for ever.  "MTB" hubs are sometimes slightly better sealed, as a bonus.

* Let's ask Dave Yates... http://yacf.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=48975.msg1190211#msg1190211

[Biggsy]

A minor extra point, very minor:

The chainline with a "road" chainset (with usual bottom bracket) to a cassette will be slightly better with a 130mm hub than 135mm.  That is unless you favour the smaller rear sprockets, when then it's worse.

[Andrew Br]

Thanks for the inputs.
If it were my frame, I'd just go for 135mm and have hand-built wheels (in fact that's what I did).
Helen, however, has had her head turned by some Fulcrum road wheels (it's a colour/design thing but they get good write-ups as well), hence the question about spacers/stretching etc.

Biggsy: thanks for the question to Dave Yates, I'd not thought to ask him  and I am going to ask the builder (Justin Burls) about 130/132.5/135mm.
Also, it's likely that she'll use Shimano 'cos their levers appear to be more adjustable for small hands. If you mean that there are no Campag disc hubs, Royce do one. 'Tis a thing of great beauty and cost. DAMHIKT 

[Somnolent]

IIRC Van Nic's Amazon frame is 132.5 - with the intention of accomodating either 130 or 135 hubs.

[MacB]

When Justin did my first frame I asked about this, basing my idea on my existing Xcheck which had 132.5mm and the VN amazon that was the same. He wasn't keen on the idea and my reading around got mixed results. some framebuilders say no problem others not happy but will do it and some won't do it.

I ended up going with 135mm but then I use disc brakes anyway and the amount of 130mm disc hubs isn't great.

[Andrew Br]

I ended up going with 135mm but then I use disc brakes anyway and the amount of 130mm disc hubs isn't great.

Yes, it's the lack of 130mm disc hubs and the thought that 135mm will be the future "standard" that was the idea behind this thread.

[Biggsy]

How about Campag's 13-29 10-speed cassette?  Nice, eh?  No?  Then go for Shimano compatible, but is there any sign that 130mm won't continue to be the standard for road bikes?

I still think 132.5mm for the frame is a good idea (providing the frame builder reckons it's harmless).

[toestrap]

+1

But if you decide to go the whole hog and run a 130oln hub in a 135 frame this is Sheldon Brown's take on the subject:

'Typical quick-release axles are 11 or 12 mm longer than the spacing of the hub locknuts. This gives 5.5-6 mm of axle protrusion on each side. You don't actually need nearly this much, so for respacing hubs to wider spacing, if you're not adding more than, say, 5-6 mm of spacers, you don't need a new axle. As long as you have 2 or 3 mm sticking out on each side, that's plenty.'

[Andrew Br]

How about Campag's 13-29 10-speed cassette?  Nice, eh?  No? 

One of those will probably be going on my bike when I need a new cassette; I can get up a 25% gradient on 11-25 but it darned near burst my ear-drums.

Then go for Shimano compatible...........

Shimano seem to be better for small hands (I use Campag and prefer it, Helen has an open mind so no prejudice involved).

.....is there any sign that 130mm won't continue to be the standard for road bikes?

Everything that I read suggests it will be 135mm, probably because that's the direction cross bikes have gone. Only Volagi, that I can see, have used 130mm hubs on a disc-road bike.

I still think 132.5mm for the frame is a good idea (providing the frame builder reckons it's harmless).

So do I but I'll wait for Justin Burls to let me know. Based on what McB has said, it appears that Justin isn't keen.

Thanks once again for all the input.

[Biggsy]

See David Yates' comments: http://yacf.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=48975.msg1193277#msg1193277

[MacB]

Well it nice for some consistency it seems Dave takes the same view that Justin did

[Andrew Br]

Sorry for the late conclusion to this and thanks again for all the feedback.

Justin (Burls, the frame designer) echoed what Dave said; the 132.5mm mid point setting would always stress the frame and the dropouts would never be parallel to the hubs.

The frame is now on order with 130mm spacing and I've already got the wheels (Fulcrum 5) which we Helen's Xmas present from me.
When the frame arrives, it's going to be sent off for spraying and then the LBS will build it up with 105.
She's hoping to have it for the Manchester-Morecambe FNRttC.