Problem with Park Tools bike stand

[Somnolent]

Blue bit coming away from black bit - like so:



Not had this problem on mine - this is a pic of my friends's.

Seems like what it presumably the threaded bit attached to the handle at the back (left in photo) has come out from where it should be, but there is only limited movement in the metal (blue) part, and no obvious way of dimantling the assembly to get things back to where they should be.

Any ideas?

[andytheflyer]

Mine does that, but if you wind the handle up again it goes back together.  The problem I get is that the blue bit locks itself into the threaded part and it's very difficult to get the blue bit to rotate so that you can angle the bike up or down.  Needs a long bar to add leverage to break the sticking.

Why do you think that there's something wrong with yours?

[Sea of vapours]

My PCS10 does exactly that too and I think that's by design. i.e. winding it back in gradually increases the rotational resistance until it locks, so there's a taper in there somewhere presumably.

The 'problem' may be that it's been wound out so far that the thread which pulls it in and out has disengaged - I can make mine do that at roughly the same extension as your photo shows (I'm not about to pull the blue bit to find out whether it's then totally detached...). If it's not winding back in, a light pressure on the blue part, towards the black part, re-engages the thread and it goes back in and locks - at least mine does. I've just done that a couple of times and I can't feel that there's anything more complex than a thread on the end of the blue bit and an encircling thread attached to the handle. Maybe just jiggle the blue bit slightly whilst rotating the handle to re-engage the thread in case there's a [surprising] misalignment.

I agree with the thing about the two parts becoming 'stuck' sometimes, though a bike tends to act as quite an effective long bar.

[Cyclops]

Most Park Tool workstands are designed to be able to be taken apart to replace jaws, change clamps, etc. The clamp jaw and compression cone are normally tight up against one another but it looks in this case as if the jaw has come out whilst leaving the compression cone behind. Looking at the exploded diagrams in the instructions will hopefully explain it far clearer than I can do with words.