Which of these greases to use when installing pedals?

[Oxford_Guy]

Hi - which of the following greases (all of which I currently have in the shed) would be best to use on the threads when installing the "Ezy Superior" quick release sockets for MKS pedals to my (aluminium) cranks? Also presumably would use this grease on the spindles of the pedals themselves (i.e. the bit that goes into the sockets)?:

• Finesse Multi Grease (red-coloured stuff, used for bearings etc.)
• Copaslip anti-seize
• Park Tool Anti-Seize Compound

The reason I'm asking is that I  have recently purchased some MKS SYLVAN TOURING NEXT Ezy Superior pedals (https://www.mkspedal.com/?q=en/product/node/334 ) for my Hewitt Cheviot SE tourer, which I should be receiving through the post soon, but I want to make sure I'm going to be able to remove the Ezy sockets, in case I don't get on with the system.

if I end up being happy with the Ezy Superior system, I will probably also later get some clipless pedals Ezy Superior pedals too, (though they don't do Shimano-compatible ones for this system), to use for Sportives etc.

[mrcharly-YHT]

copaslip

[Jakob W]

Copaslip and the Park stuff are probably functionally equivalent; either would be good for pedal threads. I'm not sure what would be best for the spindles/sockets - what does the MKS documentation recommend?

[Brucey]

you can use anti-seize on the threads if you think you are going to tighten the pedals fully first time (eg if they are going back into the same cranks for a second time). 

However if you don't have a tool that will tighten pedals fully and/or you want to go 'belt and braces'  then I would suggest some bearing grease (copious amounts on both halves) is arguably a better idea, in that this will best allow the pedals to precess (i.e. self tighten) if the need arises.

It doesn't happen that often but occasionally one sees a crank thread that is damaged because the pedal wasn't fully tight (which can happen through settling of the parts) and cannot precess (self tighten).  Common causes of this are that

- the pedal spindle does not have a full shoulder
- the pedal threads (crank or pedal) are damaged or binding
- the pedal threads are not well lubricated.

If a pedal is being refitted then there is less scope for movement (through settling) in service and therefore anti-seize will be OK. But a grease is a better lubricant and will better allow precession should that be required.

cheers

[Oxford_Guy]

you can use anti-seize on the threads if you think you are going to tighten the pedals fully first time (eg if they are going back into the same cranks for a second time). 

However if you don't have a tool that will tighten pedals fully and/or you want to go 'belt and braces'  then I would suggest some bearing grease (copious amounts on both halves) is arguably a better idea, in that this will best allow the pedals to precess (i.e. self tighten) if the need arises.

It doesn't happen that often but occasionally one sees a crank thread that is damaged because the pedal wasn't fully tight (which can happen through settling of the parts) and cannot precess (self tighten).  Common causes of this are that

- the pedal spindle does not have a full shoulder
- the pedal threads (crank or pedal) are damaged or binding
- the pedal threads are not well lubricated.

If a pedal is being refitted then there is less scope for movement (through settling) in service and therefore anti-seize will be OK. But a grease is a better lubricant and will better allow precession should that be required.

Interesting! BTW the cranks themselves are about 5 years old and have seen much use, though the last time I removed the current pedals was probably about 2 years ago, if that makes any difference? Have never had any problems with pedals coming undone or not being able to remove them so far (fingers crossed). Think I probably used Copaslip on the pedal threads last time I put the pedals back on after a flight.

[Oxford_Guy]

Copaslip and the Park stuff are probably functionally equivalent; either would be good for pedal threads. I'm not sure what would be best for the spindles/sockets - what does the MKS documentation recommend?

Don't know, have not received the pedals yet!

Might be some documentation online, though possibly only in Japanese, will take a look...

[Brucey]

new pedals = best to use grease (because they might settle and they will need to precess if they do)

old pedals going back into the same cranks = less need to precess so you can use anti-seize.

FWIW don't use anti-seize on the QD fitting.

cheers

[Oxford_Guy]

new pedals = best to use grease (because they might settle and they will need to precess if they do)

old pedals going back into the same cranks = less need to precess so you can use anti-seize.

Nice and clear

FWIW don't use anti-seize on the QD fitting.

So for my QR sockets, best to use bearing grease (the red stuff) to fit them to the cranks? Or did you mean don't use anti-seize for the bit on the pedals that goes into the QR sockets?

[Kim]

I use QRD rather than MKS removable pedals, but covering the socket/spindle in lubricant would defeat the point (I use it as an alternative to a folding pedal on a Brompton, so the pedal comes off and gets put in my bag with Things That Don't Want Grease On Them).  So far it's been fine.

[Jurek]

I use QRD rather than MKS removable pedals, but covering the socket/spindle in lubricant would defeat the point (I use it as an alternative to a folding pedal on a Brompton, so the pedal comes off and gets put in my bag with Things That Don't Want Grease On Them).  So far it's been fine.

The removable pedal on my Brompton is 'hung' on one of the brake levers (which one is obvs. - when the bike is in its folded state).
To date, it has proved to be secure storage for said pedal.
No grease in my pockets.

[Brucey]

FWIW don't use anti-seize on the QD fitting.

 did you mean don't use anti-seize for the bit on the pedals that goes into the QR sockets?

IIRC on the QD fitting there is a small collar that has to slide/twist to release the pedal and of course there is a spigot that slides into the crank fitting.  You just need a little light oil (or aerosol SFG) on the collar and (if the pedals are to be removed regularly) the spigot on the pedal can be practically dry; anything much on this fitting will just make a mess when you remove the pedal. 

Just to be absolutely clear I'd use grease where the pedals screw into the crank when they are first fitted into the cranks, then perhaps anti-seize when they are refitted after a period of use during which time any settling would have occurred.

cheers

[Polar Bear]

Sorry to drift off topic but how does one secure such pedals?   Initially I thought that this was a clever idea but I'm coming round to thinking that I might bet back to my bike to find one or both pedals have gone off shopping on their own.

[Kim]

Sorry to drift off topic but how does one secure such pedals?   Initially I thought that this was a clever idea but I'm coming round to thinking that I might bet back to my bike to find one or both pedals have gone off shopping on their own.

Mine are attached to a Brompton (basically, removable pedals are a workaround to get a clipless left pedal that doesn't stick out^[1] of the folded package), so they're almost always secured by the bike being somewhere secure, or within sight.

If they were on a bike I was habitually locking up, I'd probably treat them the way I do cycle computers, frame fit pumps and the like:  Leave them in place, unless I was leaving the bike for a particularly long time or somewhere really dodgy.  Removable pedals are unlikely to feature on the average oik-sabotaging-bikes-for-the-lols's radar, and the resale value is reduced by not having the sockets (which require a pedal spanner to remove in the usual way).


_{[1] Less of a problem than it sounds, as pure clipless pedals are less sticky-out than platforms anyway.  The main advantage (other the option of swapping to flats) is being able to lie the folded bike on its left side (handlebars-up) in a car boot or shallow luggage rack.}

[Oxford_Guy]

Sorry to drift off topic but how does one secure such pedals?   Initially I thought that this was a clever idea but I'm coming round to thinking that I might bet back to my bike to find one or both pedals have gone off shopping on their own.

If you're in a dodgy area, just take the pedals off and put them in the little carry bag provided. TBH I don't think casual thieves would notice the QR pedals, there's no big sticky out bits, unlike QR wheels

[Oxford_Guy]

The main reason I got the QR pedals is that I only use clipless  shoes/pedals for longer leisure rides/supportive, 90% of the time I'm using the bike for shorter rides, like commuting or shop visits, and I prefer not to use cleats then. Having dual-sided flat/clipless pedals like the Shimano M324 is not ideal, as you often have to flip the pedal over to get the right side, and if not using the SPD side much in winter, it tends to rust (as does the outer pedal frame on the M324s). So my thought was the QR system would easily allow me to swap between flat and clipless (or even pedals with clips or half-clips)

Flats:
https://www.mkspedal.com/?q=en/product/node/334

Flats with clips:
https://www.mkspedal.com/?q=en/product/node/56
Or these nice quill pedals: https://www.mkspedal.com/?q=en/product/node/349

Clipless:

2-bolt MTB style (not SPD): https://www.mkspedal.com/?q=en/product/node/51


3-bolt Road style (Look compatible): https://www.mkspedal.com/?q=en/product/node/140

[Oxford_Guy]

FWIW don't use anti-seize on the QD fitting.

 did you mean don't use anti-seize for the bit on the pedals that goes into the QR sockets?

IIRC on the QD fitting there is a small collar that has to slide/twist to release the pedal and of course there is a spigot that slides into the crank fitting.  You just need a little light oil (or aerosol SFG) on the collar and (if the pedals are to be removed regularly) the spigot on the pedal can be practically dry; anything much on this fitting will just make a mess when you remove the pedal. 

Okay, though in winter I'm likely to use just the flat touring pedals, so they may not get removed much - so presume would need at least some light grease/anti-seize on the spigots prevent them getting seized in?

Just to be absolutely clear I'd use grease where the pedals screw into the crank when they are first fitted into the cranks, then perhaps anti-seize when they are refitted after a period of use during which time any settling would have occurred.

Gotcha - but even the red grease should help prevent the bolts getting seized, right?