Tubeless for Dummies

[sojournermike]

I did wonder if it was the tape, it just seems to be sat at the bottom and not up the sides (as such).
Did think it may need to go round twice slightly to one side then the other. The tape is the same width as the rim when putting it on and doesn't go up the side at all.
Tape is Muc-off and supposed to be the correct size for the rim, tyre is Panaracer Gravelking SK TLC
It doesn't seem as pliable as the tape in your picture, it's more like Sellotape.

1st time was a puncture the 2nd just seemed to go down after a few days. Both times it has then leaked sealant from around the rim.

The tyre stayed pumped up overnight without sealant when I 1st inflated it.

I’d start with new tape. I use a 3M tape that seems the same as the Effeto Mariposa tape. But there are loads of options now. Then make sure the tyre beads are free of lumpy bits of dry sealant that could stop them sealing and set it up again.

[Sergeant Pluck]

Panaracer Gravelking SK TLC

I was using the slick version of the Gravelking tubeless until recently, I had no problems with them although they are said to be a looser fit that doesn't work so well on some rims. They are certainly looser than the tyres that replaced them. However, they worked fine for me.

[Cudzoziemiec]

The Gravelkings didn't work too well for me. Okay until I got a puncture and then they came unseated.

[zigzag]

i had a bit of a palaver last saturday, first time in nearly seven years of running tubeless, mainly due to my own mistakes.

so, the tyres were gravelking slicks, with over 5000km on them, rear tyre nearing its eol, front still looking v.good. i have topped up the sealant back in july before the alpi4000 and lejog and haven't added any since, so it has dried out. no big deal as i always carry some sealant with me, to add if needed in case of a puncture. on a wet and gritty ride, i had my rear tyre deflate and used the tubeless plug to plug a small hole (this was my first mistake - should have added the sealant instead). then after some time i felt that the tyre is getting soft again. rode a few km until it became flat, but also had a puncture on the front one at the same time. it was a busy road and a not good place to stop, so rolled 50-100m on flat tyres to a safe spot (second mistake - should've stopped straight away). added the sealant into the front tyre and started pumping, but the tyre has unseated from riding on the rims and the air was escaping quicker around the beads than my pump could inflate. the rear tyre has unseated too, so i was kinda stranded. not wanting to walk my bike to the nearest garage/bike shop i rode on flat tyres (for 3-4km) until a van driver noticed my misery, stopped and gave a lift to a nearest bike shop. i managed to seat and inflate the front tyre using their compressor. the sidewall of the rear tyre was chewed up from riding on the rim, so i bought an inner tube, inflated the tyre to 20psi and gently rode home. the rear rim needs fixing and there's some damage to the chain/seatstays from a floppy tyre rubbing against them, hey ho.

a few lessons from this:
although i hate the idea of inner tubes in tubeless tyres, perhaps it's worth carrying one (which i didn't do before)
stop riding asap, if the tyre deflates, to prevent it from unseating
carry a bit more sealant on longer rides, say 120ml
carry a co2 inflator on longer rides, in case the tyre unseats (very unlikely, but still)
be more diligent with the maintenance schedule, i loose the track with five sets of wheels on tubeless tyres

i have installed a gravelking ss tyre on the front wheel now, it has more rubber and better puncture protection (but is also a bit slower). the rear wheel will have its tyre hooks repaired and painted over and the wheel will be usable again.

with all my recent trouble, be in no doubt that tubeless is vastly superior system and i had close to 100,000k of trouble free riding in all those years. i have knowingly ridden with dried up sealant before for thousands of km, carrying 30-60ml of sealant in a saddle bag just in case - no punctures, no worries. it saved me from carrying inner tubes, tyre levers, inner tube patches, glue etc and saved a lot of time on the rides, not faffing about with flat tyres. i will change almost nothing and carry on enjoying the benefits.

[zigzag]

How does the rim tape fit across the rim bed? It should be like the top part of this image:



The edge of the tyre and the tape come into contact in such a way that the sealant doesn’t actually contact the rim itself.

yes, the sealant should not touch the rim surface, the rim tape should ride up the rim wall to overlap with the tyre bead. other two places for the air to escape are porous sidewalls or the gap near/around the valve hole.

[bobb]

Apologies if it's already been asked, but how often should you change tubeless rim tape? Is it a case of if it ain't broke, don't fix it? Or should I just replace it whilst I've got the chance regardless? Or does it last for years no problems?

I'm entering my third year of tubelessness now - one of the wheels actually got rerimmed just over a year ago so got new tape then. The other wheel still has the original tape from when I set it up.

I appreciate an inspection would be the first thing to do, but I've got a pair of new tyres on the way and am just thinking it might be best to order some more tape for when they arrive.

Ta.

Edit: I use the Schwalbe stuff

Edit 2: I have Googled this, but I trust the opinions of you lot over a bunch of randoms....

Edit 3: I appreciate that you lot are a bunch of randoms, but I can filter out the cretins 

[Hot Flatus]

You might as well order some anyway, as it will get used eventually, but I'd recommend TESA tape from ebay (get the correct width) as it's much cheaper and does the job well.

Changing tyres is the ideal time to have a look, get the residue off the rims, and if the tape is lifting or splitting then retape it, obviously making sure the rim bed is thoroughly cleaned with isopropyl alcohol and dry.

I tend to put new valve cores in as well at least once a year. They cost pence. Or new valves if they are looking a bit tired every few years.

As I, and others, have said before, it pays not to rush anything with tubeless setup. Do it all very well the first time and it will serve you well. My own tubeless truism is that tubeless doesn't save you maintenance time, it's just that you get to choose the time and place that you do it, rather than it being determined by a roadside failure.

[Hot Flatus]

TESA tape:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165498034530?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=DzYkn0-dRyO&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=fafun6UAQEW&var=465045384875&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

It does come in different widths, so check, but as you can see you get enough on a roll for many, many wheels. I'm still on the same roll from 7 years ago.

[bobb]

Cheers. Yes, that is significantly cheaper!

[De Sisti]

I've not gone over to tubeless yet (too much of an expense for me to re-shod three bikes).

On Sunday's ride, one of our members with a tubeless set-up had a puncture which resulted
in lots of white-coloured sealant leak from his tyre*.

The sealant obviously didn't plug the leak, so, as he had rims that could take an inner tube,
he used the back-up to continue the ride and get him home.

*He had Schwalbe brand of tyres on his wheels and said he'd never use them again.

[Hot Flatus]

He should have had a dart plug, like dynaplug. Costly, but does the job. Schwalbe tyres are decent.

[De Sisti]

He should have had a dart plug, like dynaplug. Costly, but does the job.

I didn't have experience of the set-up to suggest it.

[Hot Flatus]

I've had to put a tube in twice in 8 years. Now, I suspect I won't ever have to do it because I can plug the hole at the roadside if the sealant doesn't work. Of course, some other fatal tyre event may happen at some point, just as it does with conventional tyres. For example,  if you get even a small slit, the inner tube can poke through, abrade on the road surface, and explode.

https://www.velozone.co.uk/products/dynaplug-racer-ultralite-tubeless-bicycle-tyre-repair-kit-holder-black?gclid=Cj0KCQjw6cKiBhD5ARIsAKXUdybTILP_ff-frybPLVi6i3ePE-Un5blENircYEWuMmKJR6Us9wcGH8YaAvFiEALw_wcB

[Ian H]

I've used plugs or darts on very few occasions; put a tube in on (I think) three occasions - once my own fault for letting the sealant dry out, twice for gashes that wouldn't seal. 
My kit nowadays consists of small bottle of sealant, plug tool, levers & tube (compare with two tubes, levers, patches & solvent, for tubed tyres)

[De Sisti]

 
My kit nowadays consists of small bottle of sealant, plug tool, levers & tube (compare with two tubes, levers, patches & solvent, for tubed tyres)

Not that much difference, really.

[Hot Flatus]

The difference is...it almost never gets used 

[Ian H]

The difference is...it almost never gets used 

That is a problem for both tubed & tubeless.  Punctures, at least for most folk, are rare enough nowadays that it's quite likely that something doesn't work: solvent dried out or the pump don't work*.

©Bob Dylan

[Hot Flatus]

That is true. Although regular maintenance of both those things will help.

[D.A.L.E.]

Tesa 4288 is 'better' but it only comes in one width AFAIK.

Tesa 4289 here in different widths -
https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/products/tubeless-rim-tape-21mm-25mm-or-32mm-x66m

[Ian H]

That is true. Although regular maintenance of both those things will help.

This is true.  I think I'll just nip out now and fettle my pumps.

[Hot Flatus]

Watch your back if you are going to be hunched over your tubing

[Ian H]

Watch your back if you are going to be hunched over your tubing

Why?  Are you lurking around here?

[Hot Flatus]

Always

[Ian H]

 

[Hot Flatus]

Dance for me, Ian.