Has anyone ever used a layer of gorilla tape followed by a layer of proper tubeless tape to tape a rim? Any reason this would be a stupid idea?
I've got a set of Hope 20Five rims, and they seem particularly resistant to being properly taped, pissing air out of the spoke holes after seating the tire and giving it a good shake. I've tried Stan's and Schwalbe tape, and two otherwise reliable shops have also struggled with them. I've had gorilla tape recommended for stubborn rims as it apparently conforms better to the channel and seals the holes better than proper tubeless tape, but have read about issues about gorilla tape being porous, and also getting pushed too deep into the spoke holes at road pressures. I'm thinking a layer of gorilla tape to properly seal the spoke holes, followed by a layer of tubeless tape to provide strength and block sealant travelling through the gorilla tape. Thoughts from the panel?
20five rims look to have a very deep center channel. Taping into that and keeping the tape the full width of the rim looks challenging.
When youve found leaking and then removed the tyre, where was the tape? Id guess pressure pushed the tape into the channel and pulled it away from the edges? Really you want the tape almost up the sides of the rim so the tyre sits 'on/in' the tape to make a good seal with no path for the air to get under the tape, that might be hard with this rim. Id probably try a wider tape so it has spare width to settle properly then trim off the excess, tho at this point you are probably almost at the cost of the rims in tape :'(
Before you retape tho do check the valve, deep/curved rims like those can be tough to fully seat the valve. Many atfermarket vavles are just have a rubber cone for a seat/seal and these often wedge in the hole at the sides and leave a tiny air path at the deepest point. If you think this may be the issue there are a few options, grease the seal, bathroom sealant on the seal, an instant clear/gel patch over the hole first (this is a trick schwalbe have inculded in some kits before, they are thick and squishy so help seat uneven gaps), or a valve with a different shape seat/seal such as
zefal.