A further question then , if you will allow me. For long life of the repair does it matter what brand/style of puncture repair kit you use?
Any conventional type patches and rubber solution you get are likely to work fine if your technique is ok. Patches with thinner or feathered edges are preferable. It works out cheaper in the long run to buy patches and solution separately.
See the product labels/leaflets for full instructions, but my two top tips are:
1. Do not apply the patch immediately after applying the rubber solution. Let the solution at least get very tacky. The patch will stick even if it's dry.
2. Do not test the repair by inflating before the tube is fitted in the tyre. Inflate just enough to round the tube out. (The tyre effectively presses on the patch when the tube is inflated inside it).
These are the two things I got wrong in my early days when I had failed repairs.
In theory, it's best to let the patch cure for several hours before use, but in practice, it'll be fine five minutes after if you've done a good job, as long as you don't test it outside of the tyre. It is safe to inflate outside of the tyre to test after a few hours. (You might want to check under water for further small punctures, for instance).
I don't thow a tube away when it has many patches. I just sling it in the back of the drawer.
The patches add (a ridiculously small amount of) weight and rolling resistance.
"Glueless" (self-adhesive) patches are available that don't require rubber solution and can be stuck down immediately. These range from a rubbish waste of time to surprisingly good. The Park ones I tried actually worked. It's important to sand the tube first, whether using glueless or conventional patches, to remove the shiny mold-release, to which things don't stick well.
It can be even faster to use a glueless patch than change a tube when the location of the puncture is obvious. I still favour conventional patches when there's time though - because I know they last for ever.