Mavic ID360 freehub issues

[FifeingEejit]

After a bit of a drowning on the long dark teatime my mavic ID360 is rather draggy, I took it apart and cleaned it up but when put back together although better than before it's still not spinning as freely as it should.

The ratchet gears and spring are OK looking and feeling and engaging ok, and the freehub seems to spin freely on the axle despite the outboard bearing on the freehub body showing wear.

Which has me thinking its the interface between the hub shell and the freehub body's flange, but not sure how that would cause it if I've cleaned the shell and flange and regressed them? Hm...

Any thoughts?

Pretty much everything I find on t'internet is about the old pawl based ones with the QR only Axel.
The only video I've found of the ID360 is someone taking the freehub body apart with a tool I can't find evidence of which would be handy to do the bearing.

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[Brucey]

daft question, but is there perhaps a spacer in the assembly (eg between the freehub body and the main part of the hub)  that has been omitted? 

 Or is there a seal that is dragging?   One of the possible reasons for draggy seals is seal swelling. This can occur if the wrong lubricant and/or the wrong cleaning solvent is used on certain rubber compounds.  Once swollen, a rubber seal usually has to be replaced.  If in doubt, you could (if it is possible) perhaps  try assembling the parts without the seal.

cheers

[FifeingEejit]

Think there is a seal there, going to take it apart in a bit and have a look.

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[FifeingEejit]

Yes there's a seal, and that's what's dragging on the freehub body.

Thanks

[FifeingEejit]

hm, replaced freehub and seal and used the mavic "special" grease that came with the seal...
wish I knew what it actually is (or at least an appropriate grease) as buying packets of it isn't exactly cheap, thin white stuff

and although it's no longer draggy it still seems to be, erm, catchy?
Spinning the wheel up still results in some drive train movement, which I guess still indicates some friction in the contact between the freehub body and the seal or the hub shell, or in the gears, hm will probably have it apart again to see if I'm missing something extra stupid like the outboard gear dropping into the splines for the inboard one due to a spacing issue, or even just not pushing the seal in far enough.

Plus side of the extra freehub is I can now attempt to get the front plate off, get the knackered bearing out and pop round to the bearing shop near work knowing that at least I have a usable enough backup wheel when the Hunt pops yet another spoke...

Suppose I could possibly get 28mm tyres onto my MTB 12mmx142mm rear wheels if absolutely necessary, though both are a bit off true... ok more than a bit, plus side... Hope racket.