Touring Bikes?

[Karla]

Och, just when ye think ye have the bike all sorted, up pops this wee beastie... Very braw indeed!

• https://www.stanforthbikes.co.uk/kibo-dirt-drop/li]
  

Tbh if you're thinking of heavily loaded touring potentially on dirt roads, I'd go discs.  Your rims are bound to take a beating and a buckled rim won't kill your braking on a disc bike.[/list]

[rogerzilla]

Tubus Tara, OD?  I can't get mine level on the LHT, either.  The fork bosses are in the wrong place or Tubus have put the mounting slot too far forwards on the rack struts.  You'd think there would be a Blackburn low-rider standard they could follow.

[Oscar's dad]

Tubus Tara, OD?  I can't get mine level on the LHT, either...

Yes I think so, it's annoying you can't them level.

[Canardly]

OD what is that Ortlieb? bag you have mounted laterally at the tail end?

[Oscar's dad]

OD what is that Ortlieb? bag you have mounted laterally at the tail end?

On the back, sitting on the rack top is a Carradice, my tent in a bag and a folding stool. The photo was taken back in 2015 just after I'd finished building the bike and I was seeing how much weight it would carry and what it felt like to ride.  Conclusion: a lot and lovely 

[rogerzilla]

When you load up a touring bike, the 22T chainring gets dirty for the first time!

[Oscar's dad]

When you load up a touring bike, the 22T chainring gets dirty for the first time!

 

[Paul H]

If you get seduced by the LHT lobby, be aware the current disc model is considerably different from those being discussed here, it may or may not suit you, but considering the current model on the basis of reviews of the previous might be a mistake.
I have three touring bikes, not just because I'm greedy, there's also more than one type of tour and the bikes are considerably different. You can't really go wrong, buy something designed as a touring bike and it'll be fine to go touring on, many bikes not designed for it are also fine.  If you do have a better idea of what you like and what you want to do with it, the chances are you'll get a better bike, you might just get lucky or it might take a few bikes to get there.

[Oscar's dad]

If you get seduced by the LHT lobby, be aware the current disc model is considerably different from those being discussed here, it may or may not suit you, but considering the current model on the basis of reviews of the previous might be a mistake.
I have three touring bikes, not just because I'm greedy, there's also more than one type of tour and the bikes are considerably different. You can't really go wrong, buy something designed as a touring bike and it'll be fine to go touring on, many bikes not designed for it are also fine.  If you do have a better idea of what you like and what you want to do with it, the chances are you'll get a better bike, you might just get lucky or it might take a few bikes to get there.

Very good points ^^^

[ElyDave]

Very true, of the bikes I have  now, two are 17 yo Al frame carbon fork road bike with triple, and >20 years old 26" wheel MTB with rigid frame. Since buying those I've bought and sold a full carbon road bike and a 29'er with front suspension. Both were fast, but just not as enjoyable or comfortable for the rides I do.

[IanDG]

Tubus Tara, OD?  I can't get mine level on the LHT, either.  The fork bosses are in the wrong place or Tubus have put the mounting slot too far forwards on the rack struts.  You'd think there would be a Blackburn low-rider standard they could follow.

Aah, thanks for that - I've bought Tara for when I finally get round to my first camping trip. Won't be pulling my hair out thinking I'm doing something wrong and spend hours trying to get it level 

[quixoticgeek]

Just a quick word re building your own.

The bike industry supply chain is really screwed up at the moment. I just tried to buy some shifters and was getting 32+ week ETA's for when they will have stock. You may find that your choice of components are not the ones you want, but simply the ones you can get hold of.

J

[mrcharly-YHT]

What Quixotic said.

I came here to say something similar. The problem isn't just availability, but cost. I've just bought chainset, chain, cassette and jockey wheels = £180

It is really important to have gears low enough for you (when touring), and many bikes are sold with a stupid 50/34 setup. Thankfully the gravel market is changing that. The old touring standard of a good-sized big ring and a twiddly grannie ring has returned after a couple of decades.

So buying a complete bike will probably be cheaper than building one up.

If I were setting up a bike for extended touring, I'd probably plump for either down tube or bar end shifters (that can be operated in friction mode). Easier to get replacement gear bits on the road if something like a cassette or derailleur breaks.

[Oscar's dad]

If I were setting up a bike for extended touring, I'd probably plump for either down tube or bar end shifters (that can be operated in friction mode). Easier to get replacement gear bits on the road if something like a cassette or derailleur breaks.

Agree!   

Fred is 100% friction so front and back derailleurs can be trimmed to cope with massive gear ranges.

[Kim]

If I were setting up a bike for extended touring, I'd probably plump for either down tube or bar end shifters (that can be operated in friction mode). Easier to get replacement gear bits on the road if something like a cassette or derailleur breaks.

I got pissed off with the Dura-Ace bar end shifters being ridiculously fragile - there's a plastic friction ring that cracks easily if the lever is subject to significant sideways force (eg. from the bike falling over or bouncing against it on a train), at which point neither indexed nor friction shifting works.  For the last few years I've been using the Microshift alternative, which seems much more robust, but lacks the ability to disable the indexing.

I do however have a friction thumb-shifter operating a second brake on my rear wheel.  This is extremely useful on a recumbent, as you can lock it on and sit astride the bike hands-free, but the benefits of stabilising the bike when using a kick-stand, faffing with luggage or securing it on trains are equally applicable to an upright.  If one of my shifters were damaged on a long tour, I could re-purpose it to operate the relevant derailleur.

[bobb]

If I were setting up a bike for extended touring, I'd probably plump for either down tube or bar end shifters (that can be operated in friction mode). Easier to get replacement gear bits on the road if something like a cassette or derailleur breaks.

Why would parts be easier to get if you're using down tube or bar end shifters? And what relevance is that to broken cassettes* or mechs?

*Has anyone ever actually "broken" a cassette?!

[The Family Cyclist]

If I were setting up a bike for extended touring, I'd probably plump for either down tube or bar end shifters (that can be operated in friction mode). Easier to get replacement gear bits on the road if something like a cassette or derailleur breaks.

Why would parts be easier to get if you're using down tube or bar end shifters? And what relevance is that to broken cassettes* or mechs?

*Has anyone ever actually "broken" a cassette?!

I think it's because as the shifters can be set to be friction rather then indexed it means if you end up with say an 8 speed cassette or a weird and wonderful derailleur you can still work it

Although I imagine breaking a cassette might be hard although if the wheel broke and you had to change to a different spec rear wheel same effect

[bobb]

Ah, I see - any old cassette and mech will do...

[tatanab]

If I were setting up a bike for extended touring, I'd probably plump for either down tube or bar end shifters (that can be operated in friction mode). Easier to get replacement gear bits on the road if something like a cassette or derailleur breaks.

Agreed.  My touring frames are custom built, so I have brazed on downtube lever bosses so that if my ergo levers or rear dropout get mangled I will have an escape route.  To that end, I carry a right hand friction lever - just in case.  No need to carry a left since changes on that side are less frequent and could be done by hand.

[mrcharly-YHT]

Ah, I see - any old cassette and mech will do...

Exactly this. Ironically more of an issue now with the supply problems.

Being able to fit anything - say, 9spd cassette when you have a 10spd setup, or, more likely, a random rear mech because you've dropped clothing in the gearing and broken the mech.

Friction will work with anything.

My mercian has indexed bar ends, not sure of the model (they are really robust, I've crashed that bike multiple times in a day), that can be switched to friction mode. Terrific kit.

[bobb]

I still wouldn't be seen dead on a bike with bar end shifters 

[Cudzoziemiec]

When I tried bar ends, I couldn't get on with them. I'd far rather have d/t shifters if I were to go friction mode. But I'm sure this is in large part a question of what you're used to.

[Carlosfandango]

Bar ends are pretty crap, bash on your knees if you don't shorten the bars, long cables in the way and make shifts worse, get scratched or change gear when you lean the bike against a wall.

Bobb's right, they look awful.

Downtube shifters the coolest and best.
 

[Carlosfandango]

Fred fully loaded up...

Amazing, how many long tours have you ridden with that set up OD?

[Oscar's dad]

Bar ends are pretty crap, bash on your knees if you don't shorten the bars, long cables in the way and make shifts worse, get scratched or change gear when you lean the bike against a wall.

Bobby's right, they look awful.

Downtube shifters the coolest and best.

I like bar ends!  I know they can get in the way but they are nice to use.  Fred has Salsa Woodchipper bars so the bar ends are well away from your knees.