I would recommend finish line 'teflon' grease. It has a synthetic base oil with a higher viscosity than most other greases, and it provides a considerable amount of protection to good quality bearings. Being white, you can see immediately if it is contaminated in any way, so it is good for posh parts that you do bother to at least look at once or twice a year.
I'd only mark it down for a few aspects
1) it doesn't contain a solid lubricant (like MoS2) which will withstand the worst conditions in a bearing. [arguably it doesn't need to, inside campag hubs etc]
2) it doesn't keep seal lips perfectly well wetted (which it has in common with most #2 greases)
3) it doesn't have enough corrosion inhibitors to a) prevent further corrosion in bearings that have started to corrode or b) to withstand the very worst effects of winter road salt. [By which I mean it is vastly better than most other greases, just not as good as a very few others in these respects]
So there are better greases in some aspects, but 1) and 3) don't apply to your typical campag hubs and if you add a little synthetic gear oil to it (or indeed most dried and/or excessively thick #2 greases) you will make a kind of in situ SFG that will work very well in hubs that have half-decent lip seals.
Similar considerations apply to the campag grease that is inside your hubs already, hence my earlier suggestion f adding some gear oil to the grease that is inside your NOS hubs.
FWIW I use a very basic grease like LM (which is designed for a completely different load/speed regime) as a 'running in' grease; a few hundred miles use with that in will knock the high spots off a rough bearing surface (this is another way of saying that the bearing will wear at a noticeably higher rate with this grease in) and then I will put in something decent instead.
FWIW I have used SPD pedal bearings to experiment with different greases over the last few years. These pedals have bearings that will suffer 'avalanche' wear, (if they wear at all) in which the (very high in relation to the ball size) loads are dramatically less well shared between balls as soon as there is the slightest free play, so small differences in initial wear rate rapidly become exaggerated. They also (for whatever reason) have bearing surfaces that will 'recover' from having had ~100um wear, and will work happily again (with the right adjustment/ grease in). Finally it takes just a few minutes to purge the old grease with fresh stuff and to adjust the pedal bearings again ready for the next experiment.
In relation to this discussion, there are greases that provide a lower wear rate in an already damaged bearing, but in a correctly adjusted bearing that is in good condition, the wear rate with FL Teflon grease is very low; new bearings in cheap SPD models (e.g. PD-515 and PD-520) have surfaces that are not perfectly smooth; normally they 'run in' in a few hundred miles but with the FL grease inside, this process takes far longer than normal. My experience is that once the bearings are run in nicely, and packed with FL Teflon grease you might (barring gross water ingress) expect them to last several years of daily use without requiring further adjustment, provided the grease is purged and replaced once a year or so. With a lot of other greases this does not happen; the bearings just keep on wearing away.
FWIW the way greases behave in bicycle bearings is complicated and is (even now) not perfectly well understood in comparable low-speed high load applications. I attempted to explain some of these things in a few posts I put on the cyclingUK (formerly CTC) forum a while ago. It is perhaps interesting reading for some, if only to illustrate what a complicated business it really is.
FWIW in those particular campag hubs, the loadings in correctly adjsuted hubs are quite benign apart from the RH hubshell bearing; this (bascially, arguably) has the wrong contact angle in it; ideally it should be varied with the radial loading if there is a pair of bearings supporting a hubshell, and it isn't. Even when carefully adjusted and reasonably well lubricated, this bearing wears; the balls in the RH bearing will tend to scuff under high loads. This may be lessened with a little more preload; I have yet to find the best adjustment but it might be ~1/40th of a turn more than is required to eliminate free play from the bearing, something like that. Obviously you want the best possible grease in this bearing, and to replace it regularly.
cheers
