cleat position

[quixoticgeek]

I have been given a second pair of spd shoes. I know that the position on my current pair is correct (fitted by a bike fitter). But the new pair are ever so slightly different externally to the original pair, making it hard to work out how to line up the position on the newer pair.

How can I get the cleat position right on the new pair, if I have the old pair for reference?

J

[DuncanM]

At least in relation to forward/backward, you can put your foot in the old pair, work out where the cleat is in relation to the bony bits of your foot. Then put your foot in the new shoe and work backwards from your foot.
It's harder side-to-side but hopefully that is easier to eyeball.

[philip]

What I do, assuming two sets of cleats: attach the new cleats in the appoximate position on the new shoes, and then stand by the bike with the crank horizontal pointing rearwards and while wearing each pair clip in and compare the position of my toes along the crank.  It's harder if you are trying to move one set of cleats.

[LittleWheelsandBig]

I find there is more variation at the front of cycling shoes than at the back. I tend to measure cleat position from the back of the shoe and set it that way. Ride around the block a couple of times with each pair and tweak the new cleat position, if required.

[Kim]

At least in relation to forward/backward, you can put your foot in the old pair, work out where the cleat is in relation to the bony bits of your foot.

Obviously what's needed is an old-timey x-ray machine...

[nuttycyclist]

I used to stand on a piece of paper/cardboard in the old shoes, to get a foot print.    Then I'd stand on the paper in the new shoes.    It becomes very obvious where the cleats need to go on the new shoes, even if the shoes are vastly different design.

[giropaul]

I use a set of insoles ( your current ones will do) , and transfer the centre position on the cleat to the insole - I use an old compass point bit anything you can feel through the shoe is fine.
Then put the marked insoles in the new soles and reverse the process.
I find a small set-square on the cleat is useful to mark the centre point of the cleat on your shoe.

[Ian H]

I'm with LWaB: measure from the heel.
Then left/right should be easy enough to eyeball.
I draw an imaginary line straight back from the cleat to where in intersects the heel to determine the amount of heel-in (or out if you're that kind of cyclist).
It generally comes out right enough.

[L CC]

I don't measure- I put them as far back as they'll go and then about 15 degrees out from vertical. Then I ride them once, realise yet again my 15 degrees is the wrong way round and move them 15 degrees the other way from vertical. I've been doing this for about 12 pairs of shoes.

[zigzag]

stick some masking tape on the sides (front part, both inner and outer sides) of all shoes. take a ruler, place it across the centre of both bolts and mark the tape on both sides. put the shoe on and mark the bony protrusions on each side. replicate the distances on the new pair of shoes.

[Defblade]

Would this help?

https://road.cc/content/review/ergon-tp1-pedal-cleat-tool-274119

[Kim]

Put the shoes on barefoot, and poke a sharpie through the bolt holes to mark your foot.  Measure the error and repeat...

[citoyen]

stick some masking tape on the sides (front part, both inner and outer sides) of all shoes. take a ruler, place it across the centre of both bolts and mark the tape on both sides. put the shoe on and mark the bony protrusions on each side. replicate the distances on the new pair of shoes.

^This. I don’t do it precisely the same way but it amounts to the same thing.

It’s where your foot sits in relation to the pedal axle that matters, at least as far as fore/aft positioning is concerned.

You shouldn’t need an x-ray to do this, although how easy it is to feel where your feet’s bony bits are will depend on the thickness of the shoes’ uppers to some extent.

[giropaul]

Would this help?

https://road.cc/content/review/ergon-tp1-pedal-cleat-tool-274119

Great - if you use the right cleats. I use Look Delta still, and it wouldn’t of course work for 2 bolt SPDs
I’ve got a BiciSupport jig, that works to check the position after fitting, but doesn’t help much with getting the cleats in the right place at the start of the job.

[Defblade]

Would this help?

https://road.cc/content/review/ergon-tp1-pedal-cleat-tool-274119

Great - if you use the right cleats. I use Look Delta still, and it wouldn’t of course work for 2 bolt SPDs
I’ve got a BiciSupport jig, that works to check the position after fitting, but doesn’t help much with getting the cleats in the right place at the start of the job.

Article, at the bottom, says they do the same thing for different cleat types.
"Ergon does four other tools in the range – for Shimano SPD (mountain bike), Crank Brothers, Look Keo and Speedplay. "

[LittleWheelsandBig]

None of those options fit the the original Look delta cleats, though a modification to a Keo guide might work adequately well.

[drossall]

There's a fair amount of float on SPDs. The right position generally has the broadest part of the foot over the pedal spindle. I generally set the centreline of the cleat over the widest part of the shoe, and check for the heel being appropriately clear of the pedal. Then I'll try a test ride. I can feel whether the foot is straight or not. I only need to get the ideal position well within the range of float.

[rogerzilla]

In contrast to fboab, mine are as far forward as possible!

20210712_080909 by rogerzilla, on Flickr

This gets them as close to the widest part as possible.  I fitted these last week using the previous (worn out) shoes as reference.

They are deliberately skewed slightly (heels in) to allow my knees to run straight.

[L CC]

Having my cleats like that would give me hot foot and ankle strain within 10 minutes.
I think trial and error is really the only way to get it right-for-you. Whatever your 'bike fit' says.