Down-gearing

[Andydauddwr]

Hi folks,

I have an 07 Langster which I've used out of the box with no mechanical mods.  This has become my main commuting bike and I've been getting on well with it aside from the occassional failure to let go on the legs when going downhill.

The powers that be have just declared that my department is relocating and the new route to work will involve a significant climb.  I can get up the hill on my existing gear, but am properly running out of steam towards the top, so think to do it daily would be a bit uncomfortable.  So first question is should I grin and bear it (it will get easier over time nodoubt) and consider it an exercise in strength training, or should I down-gear.

If going for the latter, then is the lockring on my flip-flop hub likely to be comaptible with my Shimano cassette removal tool and where is the best place to source a smaller cog?  Could I get away with breaking apart an old cassette, or is the spline pattern going to be different.

Apologies for the newbie questions, but this is the disadvantage to riding fixed out of a box rather than homebrew....

Thanks,

AC

[Chris N]

Langsters, I think, use screw-on cogs so a splined cassette sprocket is a no-no.  Use a BB lockring tool or punch + hammer to remove the lockring (LEFT HAND THREAD!) and a chainwhip to remove the sprocket (RIGHT HAND THREAD!) and you should be able to screw a new one on easily.  New sprockets can be had from lots of places - On-One, Hubjub, Condor, SJS.

[border-rider]

The sprockets are quite different

You need a specific fixed sprocket. EAI is a good make, and On-One's own Cr-Mo ones seems fine too.  I'm guessing it's a 3/32 sprocket, but check that it isn't 1/8 thickness. 

You'll need a sprocket wrench/chainwhip to get the old sprocket off (unless it's a freewheel on t'other side) and a lockring spanner for the lockring

Have  a  look on www.fixeFAQs.org.uk for more info

Edit: wot Chis said. 

[MSeries]

I haven't seen your bike and don't know what sort of hub you have, you didn't say. I would be very very surprised if a cassette lockring spanner will remove a fixed hub lockring. I would also be very very surprised if a sprocket from any old cassette will fit. I will not be surprised if you need  a proper lockring spanner for a fixed hub and a proper screw on fixed sprocket.

I source my cheap sprockets from Spa Cycles, about £10 each but not top quality, other places exist, such as Hubjub, Parkers etc etc.

I won't even try to answer your question about gearing down, I don't know the hill or how strong you are. I (used to) ride fixed up and down a big hill each day and geared up as far as I dare so that I didn't have to brake on the descent. I use(d) 44x17 and was about to go to 48x18. This is of no relevance to you since you don't know me or the hill.

[andygates]

You'll get stronger.  HTFU and grow Thighs of Iron.

[bobb]

where is the best place to source a smaller cog? 

You'll be wanting a bigger cog if you want to down gear. I think you should stick it out! Unless it starts to kill your knees....

[border-rider]

bobb's right.  If you gear down, it'll hurt more when you come back down that hill

Learn to climb at comedy-low cadence

[Andydauddwr]

where is the best place to source a smaller cog? 

You'll be wanting a bigger cog if you want to down gear. I think you should stick it out! Unless it starts to kill your knees....

You're quite correct about wanting a larger cog, how very blonde of me...

Thanks for the info all.  The hub is a cheap/nasty flip-flop with a freewheel on one side and fixed on the side that gets used.  The ratio is 44x17 I think.

My fitness/strength is pretty reasonable and at 28 y/o I don't have any age related excuses yet, so maybe I'll give it a go for a couple of weeks and see.  The other detail is that I run hybrid pedals with platform on one side and SPD on the other.  Most of my utility riding tends to be done in normal shoes on the platforms, so I don't really get the benefit of an up-stroke.  I could always start riding to work in SPD shoes to give a little extra umph.

Thanks,

AC

[Greenbank]

Just keep at it.

The difference between what I could get up on fixed when I first started, and what I can get up now, is huge. And what I struggled with at first is now much easier.

[MSeries]

I thought the stock Lobster was 42x17. I may be wrong though. Suck it and see how you go.

[border-rider]

You could take the freewheel off (if you don't use it) and spin an 18T on there to try for a bit.  If it turns out to be too spinny on the way home, turn it back and keep it as a reserve for headwind days

44x17 should be OK though - it's what I use(d) on the audax bike and I could get up most things.

[PeteB99]

Bye Eck

I'm still running my Mk 1 Langster on the original 48x16 gearing - no wonder hills and head winds are such hard work!

Now the serious question

With a Flipflop hub what kind of difference in numbers of teeth can a Langster take without having to change the length ot the chain when you flip it? I'm currently running the 16 freewheel which I quite like together with a 16 fixed which was a freebie. If I'm going to use the fixed side more I'd like a lower gear say an 18 or even 20 but not if it means messing about reoving or inserting links

Sorry for the thread hijack BTW but it looks like Andys qestion is pretty well answered

[andygates]

4's the most you're likely to get away with.  2 should be fine.

[Andydauddwr]

I thought the stock Lobster was 42x17. I may be wrong though. Suck it and see how you go.

No, you are right - it is a 42 at the front, having just checked...

AC

[juliet]

Definitely try riding in in the SPDs - IME it'll make a significant difference.

Careful of your knees, but if you *can* make it up now, then keep at it - you'll get a lot faster from the practice!

[Deano]

All good advice so far - my thruppence is that it'd be easiest to leave things as they are, and you'll just get fitter as the days go by.  Or die trying 

[Pingu]

Grin Grimace and bear it. You can always push in a gale