Twelve days riding round the Scottish borders, with our two little girls and camping gear in trailers.
Having ended up with two cycle trailers for various reasons, we thought we'd better fill them. The Chariot Cougar 2 took mini_e (3) and micro_e (15 months), and was towed by me (on the upright rather than 'bent coz we wanted something easy to lock up and leave during the day). The Cougar 1 was towed by mrs_e and stuffed full of tent, sleeping bags and clothes. Panniers on both bikes then accumulated cooking stuff, food each day, my clothes, and bike bits and assorted family detritus. Hills were, erm, slow. Both trailers convert into pushchairs for moving about during the day when the bikes are locked up.
The daily plan from past trailer-ride experience was to ride for 1-2 hours in the morning, do a big lunchtime activity with the kids, and ride for another 1-2 hours to reach the next campsite. Camping and cooking up simple stuff on the stove most days, retreating to shelter and pubs when it was grotty. We only booked the first two nights in advance, and had an outline plan of the rest of the route but nothing definite. We started in Galloway forest, intending to meander across to the east coast and some way back further north, depending lots on how well the kids and us were enjoying it. The idea of the route was to ride a horseshoe shape so we could tour with the kids then get far enough back for me to go fetch the car in one days ride without baggage.
We had lots of friendly conversations everywhere we went about touring with the kids like this. I think only two of those were seriously considering it themselves, the rest mostly thought it was fantastic for someone else to do.
First night we camped in Glentrool, on the southern bit of Galloway forest. Like virtually every site we went to, it was mostly caravans with a little area for tents, but this one had a nice pretty camping area next to a pond, perfect for midges, but otherwise really pleasant.
First day we planned a day ride in the forest area, returning to the same campsite later, before setting off properly touring the next day. The first attempt to set off found mrs_e (unused to SPDs) couldn't get one foot clipped in despite repeated shuffling. Closer examination revealed no cleat in the bottom of the shoe. Doh. Back to the campsite and we find the cleat and one bolt on the floor, but not the other. Swapped to one flat pedal, one SPD, and fingers crossed we should find somewhere to buy SPD spares within a couple of days...
We got going again and climbed up above Loch Trool, a dead end road in the middle of the forest, where a stone commemorates killing a bunch of English (bit of a theme in the borders area). The kids stayed asleep, so we admired the view before heading back downhill to the forestry cafe, with a marked mini walk in the woods. Running ahead and playing hide and seek in the bushes, spotting different coloured flowers and wandering into the dark woods full of bears. Perfect toddler-fodder, though the sign's idea of 1.5 miles was a little too much for small legs. We then did an extra ride north along the only road because otherwise the day felt a bit short; but turned round when we decided we weren't really going anywhere and it felt a bit pointless.
South out of Glentrool in the morning, and an early lunch at a small park in Newton Stewart. Then on up an infeasibly steep back road to Kirroughtree, where the mtb shop had spare SPD cleat bolts for mrs_e, and she could stop riding lopsided, yay. Then headed down the coast before taking a short cut up from Creetown to Anwoth, finding more height than I'd realised (oops), and a "road" which was a farm track at first then got worse. Had to divert via the A75 for a mile uphill to get around that. Meh.
Stayed at Gatehouse of Fleet that night; we toddled up and down the main street for a bit before picking a pub for dinner in the beer garden, bit of a lazy start but we're on holiday. Later was a very wet night, but fortunately a nice neighbour on the campsite offered to let us leave the trailers in their caravan awning for the night, so they weren't properly soaked by morning.
Essential trailer manouvering going on:
Heading out in the morning, had to fix first puncture (on one of the trailer wheels). We ignored the signs for a children's chocolate factory (fortunately they can't read yet), carried on through a rather industrial looking village, then up a long valley to Castle Douglas. There we took the road for Threave Castle, and locked up at the car park to walk the half-mile to the castle itself. This must have taken us nearly an hour as micro_e staggered, stumbled, watched mini_e watching the cows, and finally allowed herself to be hoiked onto shoulders and carried. Then it's a small boat across the river to the castle in an island on the river. This is kept as a mostly open grassy island with plenty of space for rolling around, being blown everywhere, and eating picnics. The castle was open to look in, with a model in the basement showing how the area looked when it was made (more water surrounding the area), and an upper stone floor with open windows (with child-blocking wire mesh). Very explorable, and quiet enough to look round at leisure. This floor also had several puddles, which were great too, apparently.
Headed back over the little boat ride, and on via Dalbeattie to Sandyhills and a fairly average big campsite right next to the beach. There was much jumping and falling over in the waves, until we eventually had a completely waterlogged but happy soggy micro_e, who had to be stripped off completely to take her back to the campsite dry and warm(ish).
Spent the next morning heading along the main coast road (not too busy), including an impromptu stop for a cafe and abbey ruin by the road. We dodged a rainshower in the cafe, and played around the graveyard where a walled in square with iron gate was brilliant fun, it appeared. Stopping for lunchtime in Dumfries - the centre feels a little, erm, grim - but the tourist information were friendly and there was some kind of fortified house next to the bridge which wife and kids seemed to get a personal tour of while I lazed outside with the trailers.
Heading back out of Dumfries, we had a little panic as we realised we'd got the food shopping wrong and missed the end of town. Would we did have would just about stretch to dinner. Then a roadside stall with fresh veg.
Then a few miles later one with fresh eggs.
I had my eyes peeled for one with cakes but it never appeared.
Finally got to a nice campsite at Powfoot just short of Annan, where mini_e wrote a postcard to a friend back home, there were Emus and rabbits and donkeys, and we all had a pleasant evening amble playing in long shadows.
Popped in on a friend in Annan the next day, sheltering from showers for a bit. Staying in their house for an hour felt remarkably civilized - you can see how people get used to houses rather than camping on a wet day.
Then off again: through Gretna, which was remarkable uninviting. On through Gretna Green, which was marginally prettier but essentially big hotels and coaches. Eventually spotted a decent lunch playground by the river in Longtown. Wooden mini-assault course, followed by proper toddler playground with slides, climbing frame and wobbly things. One guy on a road bike popped in for lunch, just out for a local ride apparently, and a touring couple with bright orange panniers said hallo as we were on our way out. I think this was the biggest concentration of cyclists we saw all holiday.
Headed out of Longtown via the 2nd (and last!) puncture of the trip, and stayed in a lovely small campsite 4 miles up the valley. Run by a friendly couple who offered us the field further away from the main campsite, away from a group of noisier geordies. They had a home-made looking solar water heating tower, generating washing up water during the day, which appeared to pretty much work. Even a mangle for sorting the washing out. Lovely site. The lady of the couple running the place seemed genuinely interested in bike touring with her kids; but she had three, and she and her husband couldn't leave the site to holiday at the same time, so it would be tough.
The next morning everything was wet. The ground was clay and waterlogged everywhere; every time it stopped raining for a bit it would start again later. We had breakfast cowering in what appeared to be a disused chicken shed in the middle of the field, mysteriously marked "Jazz cafe". We had to keep leaving this to visit the 'seaside' at the edge of the field though. Eventually we summoned the energy to pack up and go during a dry period. An hour later going up the valley it poured again. We sheltered under trees, and eventually set off when it wasn't so bad.
Newcastleton for lunch was actually not raining! And after stuffing our faces in a cafe for a bit, the 3yr old sat on a comfy sofa at the other end of the cafe and repeatedly asked if she could play. After explaining a couple of times that yes, we'd be moving shortly and should be able to find a playground, we eventually got up and went to see her. At that point we saw the corner with enormous box of toys and dolls house and figured out what she was talking about. We ordered another coffee and relaxed for a bit longer.
Leaving Newcastleton, we climbed up out of Scotland and over to Kielder in England. This began fairly nicely, with a quiet gently rising single track road in a deserted valley, but got gradually wetter and more 'orrible weather as we went. Great place for collecting water, I believe. There was a campsite in Kielder, but we were wet and grumpy by then. So instead we presented our soggy selves at the youth hostel and begged for space, despite it being Friday night and booked out. They sorted us out a spare room, and shed for the bikes. Nice people, and gave us a dry spot to sit down and plan the next few days.
"I want this daddy", and a sample of our detritus spreading over the YH floor:
Planned a shorter day to Bellingham (via visitor centre at Kielder Water), where we camped on a nice site with a farm working hard on the harvest. We all spent a pleasant hour or two mesmerised by the hay bale wrapping machine; two tractors feeding bales round the place into it, turning them over and round and over and round, and stacking them afterwards. Incidentally, we saw an awesome number of tractors this holiday. Top feature.
Next day we found the "impromptu" cafe in Elsdon. Dedicated to cyclists, with little models and cyclist clips plastering the inside. The proprietors came over to meet us even before we'd even got off the saddle! (I got the impression they were that welcoming to everyone
)
We carried on from there over the hill to Rothbury, where we spent a pleasant hour or two playing, picnicing and eating a tub of Ben & Jerry's before going to find the campsite. Unfortunately, it turned out our info was faulty, there wasn't one. Bugger. We then spent the next two hours trogging along a fairly busy, limited visibility, heavy weekend traffic, and in places very steep, road to the next campsite near Alnwick. This was our longest day (nearly 60km), but the kids held up well and we soon had dinner in them, before an amble to wind down and bedtime. This site also had the finest little shower-in-a-shed room I have ever experienced.
Rainfall radar told us we were in trouble the next day, but we'd promised the kids seaside soon, so set off for it anyway. Saw Seahouses in showers of rain, before it started bucketing down properly and we squatted on a sheltered bit of pavement with fish n chips. Initial plan for a nearby campsite was replaced shortly afterwards by B&B, which was lovely and dry. Buildings are quite nice after you've been in a tent. (We're not too averse to camping in rain as adults, but doing it with toddlers and a small tent feels slightly beyond the call of duty when there's an alternative...) Cleared up enough for a quiet wander into town later:
Next morning we were followed by an amazing rotating wind. As we went from travelling West to North to East again it blew in our faces continuously and occasionally spat rain at us. Approaching Holy Island, we passed a bird of prey centre, but I thought we might like to visit the beach approaching Holy Island, but I was clearly incorrect when we got there as it was howling wind, cold and the world was hungry (or important nearby bits of it were, anyway).
By way of recovery, we found a little shelter, ate some food, then toddled up a long path back towards the centre we had passed. This takes a long time when you're not sure if your pink hat should be on, or off, or on again, or in the trailer, or on again. And look at that bit of grass over there, fascinating. A rain shower gave us the excuse to throw the pair of them back in and sprint up the hill.
Top place was found, with lots of owls - always popular, and a display with a harrier(?) shooting around jostled in the wind inches over everyone's head. They also have a small area for camping, which would be a great spot for future reference.
Heading North from here we thought the NCN route linking up coast roads must clearly be worth it. A couple of miles of grass tracks with road bikes and trailer didn't work great. mrs_e had a slip here, banging a wheel out of place in the frame but nothing more serious. An ice cream van helped top us up later, and the next time the Sustrans route headed into a field later we said **** this for a game of soldiers, and found a proper road into Berwick instead.
NCN:
We then had logistical issues trying to book ahead for our next night, caused by being in England where they were still on school holidays, rather than Scotland where they had already finished them. Doh. Eventually booked in to Kirk Yetholm youth hostel, back inland for a rather abrupt change of direction, but one we needed to make to get closer to the car for the end of the holiday anyway.
Cool lunchtime find for the trip to Yetholm was the miniature steam railway at Etal. Two little steam engines, a mile or more of pretty riverside track with a little turntable at each end, running up and down every half hour.
Kirk Yetholm was memorable mainly for being the end of the Pennine way, and thus covered with signs everywhere saying so. Nice enough, but it sounds like awfully hard work.
Oh, and there was a friendly horse to say hello to:
We then did one last day with the trailers heading West towards Hawick. Chanced upon a castle by the side of an isolated lane in the morning, and spent an hour exploring, picnicking and generally lazing about and being on holiday here. They seemed to fight a lot round the area in the past, apparently.
Jedburgh for lunch had probably the best playground of the trip, and then a ruddy great hill rudely sited between it and our final campsite. That done, we settled in, with a playground virtually opposite the tent, and Hawick nearby to entertain the kids for the next day.
Final days ride on my own was back from Hawick to Glentrool, and was just about the best days ride I've ever done. Gorgeous isolated valleys and pretty winding roads. Headed over west to Eskdalemuir, down through farmland north of Dumfries, back up over Moniaive and onwards and then round Loch Doon and through the 'forest drive' into Galloway Forest proper. I thought it was finished when it just kept going up to a cheeky signed 433m summit on the way through there. Just getting dark as I made it into the campsite for 9pm. Then took over 2.5 hours to drive back to Hawick. 210km ride, virtually all of it was fantastic.
Overall we had a fantastic time, and it worked out close to plan; we covered about 40km per day, but varying a lot, camped most of the time, and found a good activity to do most of the days. Best memories of seaside, castles and the steam train (and slow hills). Cycle touring with toddlers?:
