the (shimano road) freehub splines are longer on 11s, you need to use a spacer with 8/9/10s cassettes (to ensure that the lockring doesn't bottom the top cog out on the splines) and the resultant wheel (almost invariably) has a worse dish than 8/9/10s.
There are some brands of hub that have the same dish on 11s as (older) 10s models but these appear to be ones that had a sub-optimal dish anyway.
Both 10s and 11s road shimano cassettes have a dished/offset #1 sprocket which forces the mech to be very close indeed to the spokes.
In MTB cassettes, the assumption is that you will be using an enormous bottom sprocket, which can therefore be offset much further than the road 11s ones. Thus shimano MTB 11s cassettes are shorter than road 11s ones and will fit a 8/9/10s freehub body, but if you fit them to a 130mm spaced hub, the mech may touch the spokes, where with a 135mm+ spaced hub, this is less likely because the spoke angles are different.
cheers