Switching from SPD to road shoe - cleat position

[DuncanM]

I have used SPD pedals on road and MTB for many years, but I recently got some Powertap P1 pedals (and some new road style shoes), and I'd like to set myself up with a foot position as close as possible to what I had previously. Are there any tricks for this (both fore/aft position and pedal spindle-> footbed height)?  I had a proper bikefit last year, and though I changed the saddle (the old one cracked) I could measure rails -> saddle top and maintain the same position - if possible I'd like to repeat that process and retain a position as close to the fitted one as possible.
Any suggestions would be gratefully appreciated - I don't really want to have to pay for a new bikefit if I can avoid it.
Thanks
Duncan

[rafletcher]

Typically the axle of the pedal should be in the same place, assuming you’re happy with your cleat position now / it was part of the bike fit. Anectdotally that position is under the ball of the foot, although I have mine set back to ease an issue with numbness in my toes.

As to height that depends on the thickness of the shoe sole, the stack height of the pedal and depth of cleat. Again typically if moving from spd to say Look type, you might need to raise the saddle 5mm or so.

[Brucey]

yup I'd agree with that.

Also, I'd note that if you are after accuracy, the two SPD bolts look as if they are exactly above the pedal spindle, but are in fact not, by a small amount that varies slightly with the pedal model.

cheers

[DuncanM]

I can set the fore/aft bit according to where the toe/foot joint is (by poking the shoe with my foot in it!). I was more concerned about how you find where the middle of the cleat sits relative to the pedal (520s previously), and how to measure the height difference. Can this be done with calipers, and if so, where would you measure from/to?

[andrew_s]

I's measure the cleat to axle position rearwards from the bit of pedal that the front end of the cleat tucks under, remembering to measure the matching distance on the cleat on the shoe face of the cleat.

Height adjustments should allow for the thickness of the sole of the shoe, as well as the stack height of the pedal and cleat.
If possible, measure upwards from the inside of the shoe to the BB axle. It does depend on being able to open up the tongue of the shoe enough, or access to some sort of large inside caliper - maybe a wheel dishing tool would work, if it folds.

[Brucey]

to find the centre axes of new shoes (just in case they are a different shape or  your foot sits inside them differently vs the old ones), try standing on something long and thin (like a pencil) once lengthwise, and once crosswise, with each foot and have someone mark the edges of the shoe when it feels 'the same' as the old ones. 

Even shoes of the same make don't always have the bolt holes positioned the same vs the shoe axes.

cheers

[Bianchi Boy]

All the talk of mm perfect positioning  is a little unnecessary. Shoes vary by more than the few mm discussed here. Put the cleats in about the correct position ride and take an allen key with you. I put the heals of shoes against a wall to make a start. But trust yourself and do it on feel.

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