So, I made two rookie mistakes on this trip:
First, trusting Deano on the matter of hills. It was indeed long, but a bit more than a drag.
Second, overlooking the fact that Cumbria is practically Scotland - at least in ecological terms - and in the rare event that it stops raining[1], the midges appear. I neglected to bring my DEET, and now have an itchy hand and the letters "AB" written in Braille on the back of my neck. I assume this is an attempt at labelling my blood type, with a level of competence typical of the Dufton midges (it is in fact B-). Seriously, these were the rubbishest midges I've ever encountered. Lots of flying around and getting in the way, but almost no biting, and they'd just sit there and be squished when you try to brush them off. Sadly what they lacked in midging skills they made up for in sheer numbers.
[1] In my defence, this trip was the only time I've ever witnessed the phenomenon.