Yet Another Cycling Forum

General Category => Rides and Touring => Ride Reports => Topic started by: mcshroom on 13 October, 2015, 09:02:57 pm

Title: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: mcshroom on 13 October, 2015, 09:02:57 pm
The idea of this tour came about while drying out after a very wet RSF ride round Lancashire in January. Why not head as far north as possible, and then spend two weeks touring some of the most beautiful scenery in the country? Tickets were acquired in August (ScotRail have borked their cycle reservation system, so getting these tickets involved two trips to stations, one to a Library and one very confused member of rail staff) and we excitedly packed our bags and and headed out :)

Day 0 - Home to Lairg (train)
It started with a train, well lots of trains actually. I rolled down to Whitehaven for my first, carefully checking I had the train tickets for both of us for the trip and two trains later was standing on a platform at Edinburgh Waverley Station watching an East Coast Intercity pull in carrying Ruthie, her bike and a whole new set of fancy grey Ortliebs. After an hour eating sandwiches (and me introducing Ruthie to Millie's Cookies) we were then off on another train to Inverness and the trip was started. Inverness wasn't far enough North though, and eventually another train was whisking us further up the country in the dark to the tiny station outside of Lairg.

Disembarking 2 people, 2 bikes and 12 bags was quite an operation, and we had to draft in some of the other passengers to help us manage it, but here in the pitch dark dynamo lights were lit we set off on the first short trip, under a Super Moon sky to the campsite (at the top of the village hill - of course), pausing only briefly to retrieve a rear light that made a bid for freedom.


Day 1 - Lairg to Tongue (63 km)
The light showed at the campsite entrance a strange scene in miniature, lots of little characters based round a pond and mini bridge:-
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gIpSqel0xqA/VhA35HsN2fI/AAAAAAAALOk/8exm3JxqShA/s640-Ic42/20150927_112051.jpg)

It was also midgy, but with the sun shining we packed up and headed North out of Lairg on towards the Coast, the big skies flanked with distant peaks and the A roads getting smaller and smaller
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VR_Q7tu0Ruo/VhAZpEQEufI/AAAAAAAALOk/2rRsytqjG3I/s640-Ic42/DSCF1842.JPG)

Our first stop was at the Crask Inn, where we ate very nice sandwiches outside in the garden, playing fetch with the owners' dogs and remembering a good friend.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VapM9dKLij0/VhAYGjDIFOI/AAAAAAAALOk/IwBfPTqPNXs/s640-Ic42/DSCF1849.JPG)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tw9z2R6Q19U/VhAX2qxy1KI/AAAAAAAALOk/3iMQNk12814/s640-Ic42/DSCF1850.JPG)

Suitably refuelled we then pressed on through Altnaharra, and, after replacing a blown inner tube patch on towards the Coast and Tongue.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NrRsMsqIZjo/VhAVLPqnuoI/AAAAAAAALOk/fT6ix_LOd-8/s640-Ic42/DSCF1865.JPG)

Our accommodation for the night was at the former SYHA Hostel next to Tongue Causeway. Now it's independent and they are aiming to develop the site to include a holiday park. We were able to camp outside, but as there's no facilities outside yet, we were allowed full use of the Hostel Lounges, Dining Room and Kitchen. Ruthie put together a lovely dinner of Pasta, Salami, cheese and Pesto and then we listened to another resident's computer blaring out Downton Abbey (I fixed the computer later, plugging in her headphones made no difference to the sound the rest of us heard) while reading. We also met two walkers who were aiming to walk the Sutherland trail from Lochinver the following day.

More to follow soon :)




Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: mcshroom on 13 October, 2015, 09:22:36 pm
Day 2 - Tongue to Durness (50 km)

The Hostel is next to a Causeway, but down the hill from Tongue itself. Before we set off we went back up to the Village to gather supplies (and gain our first batch of Crowdie :D) then packed our bags and set off for the Causeway
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cUl5qzm0ly4/VhA3Dzqh22I/AAAAAAAALOk/tDryhyygcb8/s640-Ic42/20150928_115821.jpg)

On the other side of the Causeway is a long hill, rising from sea level to over 220m, and with the luggage it was a slow determined ride up, observing the vast expanse of moorland spreading out to the hills beyond, passing piles of drying peat turfs, and evidence of former inhabitants of the moor.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-A8H8zA6qmJE/VhATzsinCVI/AAAAAAAALOk/RUzAmmrsCzY/s800-Ic42/DSCF1873.JPG)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UNvIg5njlE8/VhATdf4Ux8I/AAAAAAAALOk/JsDDBG2kJ8g/s800-Ic42/DSCF1876.JPG)

Then the road sweeps steeply downhill to a Bridge at Hope, and up a second hill at the top of which we feasted on chocolate, oat cakes and crowdie while sat on a log on the edge of a sheep field. Then it was a plunge down to the Banks of Loch Eribol in the sunshine :)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EE6LvRoLRfg/VhAS-PA0wPI/AAAAAAAALOk/7B3j7W8Zq30/s800-Ic42/DSCF1884.JPG)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DQjSrg203Fc/VhASK6AQCbI/AAAAAAAALOk/bermYsGlXzc/s800-Ic42/DSCF1892.JPG)

At the bottom of the Loch we turned north with the wind at our backs, and then headed through Laid, and on to views of gloriously sandy beaches at Durness.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xvSMLri_UDk/VhARA7V_sOI/AAAAAAAALOk/Lajvl5EC42M/s800-Ic42/DSCF1900.JPG)

We camped at Sango Sands Campsite in Durness, which is right on top of the cliffs overlooking the sea. From there the sunset was stunning, with bright pink skies over sea and hills
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SBmG0bHnoJY/VhA2B6FzwpI/AAAAAAAALOk/FepOnLl3_C0/s640-Ic42/20150928_182212.jpg)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XiRLKIkNgN4/VhAPVt-EE2I/AAAAAAAALOk/ej8afno9ceY/s912-Ic42/DSCF1915.JPG)

Eventually after dark, we got a good view of the Supermoon :)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dr6bSJ0aZZk/VhAPBqyGaBI/AAAAAAAALOk/Tpwx77UdY5k/s800-Ic42/DSCF1917.JPG)
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: Ruthie on 13 October, 2015, 09:30:26 pm
I may have been singing a certain James song at the top of my voice riding down to Loch Eribol.

I loved it when my Garmin said 'Hope ahead', one of those nice little moments that make you smile.

We drank a toast to lovely jogler, and another to Marj, at the Crask Inn.  He was at the front of our minds a lot, that day.  Terribly unjust that he can't have that kind of fun any more. 
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: perpetual dan on 13 October, 2015, 10:48:29 pm
This all looks rather nice ... I'm getting a hankering to head North.
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: Basil on 13 October, 2015, 10:49:43 pm
Enjoying this.  More soon please.
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: mcshroom on 13 October, 2015, 11:17:22 pm
Day 3 - Durness - Scourie (42km)

This was supposed to be a short easy day, but the wind had other ideas. At something like 4am a Southerly gale blew up, leading to rapid extra guy rope deployment and peg realignment at toilet o'clock. It was still blowing in the morning, but after packing up we decided we couldn't leave without going for a walk on the beach
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SFvVVj_s61g/VhA09WqICTI/AAAAAAAALOk/WTc1rf1PLKk/s640-Ic42/20150929_104723.jpg)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8HVGWzHXB3E/VhA1QrJ2tbI/AAAAAAAALOk/yLEX-Efs4kw/s640-Ic42/20150929_104646.jpg)

Then it was off into the wind along the Kyle of Durness. The views were lovely, but with the wind we decided against the 3 hour trip to Cape Wrath (we guessed the ferry probably wouldn't run anyway) and ploughed on into the wind that was whipping up white horses on the Kyle beside us.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dNjx7ozU6u4/VhANs2gbT6I/AAAAAAAALOk/YckczsUXUK8/s800-Ic42/DSCF1929.JPG)

You know it's tough going when you celebrate getting to 10km, which seemed to take forever. We decided we needed a break at one point, and dived off the road to brew up in some shelter on the bogland beside it. All the time though the skies were bright blue, and the views were amazing
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1QeOtzr46qQ/VhANe8rjCFI/AAAAAAAALOk/DWkXoOLr9OY/s800-Ic42/DSCF1930.JPG)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9_R6MYFjt2s/VhADO-GwKBI/AAAAAAAALOk/tfmZZWiqEOA/s800-Ic42/DSCF1944.JPG)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ujZB6j3VUcE/VhA0s4flJMI/AAAAAAAALOk/fQDNs2UvubA/s640-Ic42/20150929_144606.jpg)

Eventually we made it out of the valley, and as we were decending into Rhiconich it was a glorious autumn day. We went to get a drink in the Hotel there, but it was closed due to a private funeral, so instead we ate lunch on a very lopsided table (so much so I ended up chasing an orange off the table and down the road) overlooking the Loch and some sheep engaging in their afternoon scratch on the fence opposite.

Then we continued on through lochs and hills, following a road that must have been blasted through this rugged countryside with extreme effort
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MvgBNHY5Gk4/VhAC2V8PlLI/AAAAAAAALOk/ukR7y0yQju4/s800-Ic42/DSCF1949.JPG)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-A-3PLdnuv0M/VhACvv_rP3I/AAAAAAAALOk/PPG3NLnNYE0/s800-Ic42/DSCF1950.JPG)

Eventually we reached Scourie, and pitched up on the seaside campsite there for the evening :)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-c3Yz9XPrRE4/VhA0YK6fWmI/AAAAAAAALOk/LfaVrrEBVz0/s640-Ic42/20150929_185741.jpg)

A lot tougher than 42km should have been, but we had made it :D
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: Jaded on 13 October, 2015, 11:19:57 pm
We need more photos of Supermodel Ruthie!!!  :thumbsup:

Sorry - wrong reading glasses  ;D

It looks stunning - windy, but stunning. Looking forward to the next bits.
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: mcshroom on 13 October, 2015, 11:22:12 pm
We need more photos of Supermodel Ruthie!!!  :thumbsup:

Sorry - wrong reading glasses  ;D

It looks stunning - windy, but stunning. Looking forward to the next bits.

Indeed we do :)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ER9VAhwbW10/VhASqVdZfaI/AAAAAAAALOk/IE8v3XH0LcE/s800-Ic42/DSCF1887.JPG)
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: Jaded on 13 October, 2015, 11:25:08 pm
 :thumbsup:

I found Loch Eribol a complete mental drain (I was on my way to Tongue on a 200) as you can see where you are going to, but realise you have to go a long way to get there!
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: Ruthie on 13 October, 2015, 11:25:23 pm
Cheeky sod!

I was so fed up with that wind, but the resistance training would probly cost ££££ from a personal trainer so maybe it wasn't a bad thing.  I came close to throwing at least one toy out of my pram at that wind, especially stop/starting at the passing places to let cars past.  Made up for by the stunning surroundings, it was so beautiful that day.  Travelling through such incredible places, what a gift.  I felt so grateful to be able to have that experience.

mcshroom looked at my face as I sat on The Rock Of Grumpy at the roadside and put the kettle on and got the chocolate out without comment.  Sensible chap.

The sheep scratching on the fence were funny, as were you mcshroom doing a swan dive after that orange.
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: mcshroom on 13 October, 2015, 11:41:55 pm
Day 4 - Scourie to Achmelvich Beach (48 km)

Today started with a bit of kit maintenance. First of all we got rid of the leaking cooking oil from Ruthie's front pannier, and then we did some washing
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nE4UmXk3AXU/VhA0BLIHzWI/AAAAAAAALOk/17RhCIp1_V8/s640-Ic42/20150930_100712.jpg)

The road out of Scourie starts with a climb, and bounces up and down on the coastal edge for most of the day, giving wonderful views out to Sea.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wcc9XjJnUlg/VhAB_Ue5_CI/AAAAAAAALOk/_GNIUydzwK0/s800-Ic42/DSCF1959.JPG)

This was a real day for views, with Imposing mountains, Shimmering Lochs and gorgeous blue skies. It became a bit of a joke that we'd crest a hill, or round a bend, and find another fantastic view. Here are just a few we saw between Scourie and Unapool

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cZ1VSHU1eGg/VhABQ_WfDtI/AAAAAAAALOk/RNXIpz3qeqQ/s800-Ic42/DSCF1966.JPG)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zvZIWyMwjY8/VhAA730_m8I/AAAAAAAALOk/AL2ufcNd6lE/s912-Ic42/DSCF1972.JPG)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-67tP0cK6Ju0/VhAAvUnRIgI/AAAAAAAALOk/deIiJpyKpFI/s912-Ic42/DSCF1974.JPG)

At the last photo, just north of Kylesku, we met the two walkers from the Hostel in Tongue. They'd decided that they were going to call it a day there, and stop in the hotel for the night, but had really enjoyed their walk. How they were going to get back to Tongue they weren't sure.

This whole area is a massive Geo-Park (http://www.nwhgeopark.com/), and as part of that park there is an Exhibition space explaining the geology of the area, which also has a nice cafe that we stopped at called the Rock Stop.

After lunch the big climb of the day began. We had decided not to take on the Drumbeg road, but instead opted for the route over the side of Quinag and along Loch Assynt. Despite this being the "flatter" option, there was still a lot of up

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FiucpsDXGXc/VhAAGckrI6I/AAAAAAAALOk/oJY-2o-vtNI/s800-Ic42/DSCF1982.JPG)

Of course, what goes up, must come down, and we were rewarded by a brilliant decent to the Loch side, before following the Loch in the fading light.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-J1jHkeRuPu8/Vg__huxAk5I/AAAAAAAALOk/9i10526jnpM/s800-Ic42/DSCF1990.JPG)

The ride also had a sting in the tail, in the Achmelvich Beach road. It is very narrow, and contains lots of short steep banks that are not ideal for fully loaded touring bikes. The site at the end of it however is yet another wonderful seaside campsite, with cormorants and seals in the bay
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UsOlFoAR7q8/VhAzNj8tZbI/AAAAAAAALOk/OAaolKvxA4A/s640-Ic42/20150930_184105.jpg)

That's all for tonight. Tomorrow it's on to Ullapool, Fish and Chips, and the ferry to Stornoway :)
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: andrewc on 13 October, 2015, 11:57:07 pm
Lovely stuff  :thumbsup:   Bringing back memories of a few good trips.
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: Ruthie on 14 October, 2015, 12:02:51 am
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5794/21525349344_fd284a7df8_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/yN83qQ)20150930_195113 (https://flic.kr/p/yN83qQ) by Ruth Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/106826773@N02/), on Flickr

This was Jackie the Jack Russell, and his dad.  They were just off home for a Monkfish dinner, having had chicken fillets the night before.  Jackie's dad has a good relationship with the local fishermen and they eat very well indeed in the wee green caravan where they live, just out of shot near Achmelvich Beach.

I'd love to go back there one day and just spend a couple of days pottering around.  It's a special place, I think.
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: Peter on 14 October, 2015, 01:13:44 am
Smashing stuff!  Thanks
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: woollypigs on 14 October, 2015, 07:58:15 am
Come on, it is nearly eight o'clock, you are burning day light here, chop chop, get on with it, lazy bugger ... :)

Fantastic write up, enjoyed it (and want more) yep that is a place we need to go.
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: billplumtree on 14 October, 2015, 08:20:10 am
Great stuff, lovely write-up.  That first-day feeling really comes across - setting out in the sunshine on tiny roads, with it all ahead of you.  More please!
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: Graeme on 14 October, 2015, 10:36:22 am
Daisyhill is sick with envy, and I understand why. The way you've described this journey highlights everything that is idyllic about cycle camping and Scotland. I would love to follow in your footsteps/tyre tracks with Daisyhill and maybe one day we'll be able to. Absolutely fantastic, chapeau to both of you.
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: mcshroom on 14 October, 2015, 10:41:18 am
Come on, it is nearly eight o'clock, you are burning day light here, chop chop, get on with it, lazy bugger ... :)

Fantastic write up, enjoyed it (and want more) yep that is a place we need to go.

Unfortunately I have to work to feed my touring habit. More this evening :)
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: Fab Foodie on 14 October, 2015, 07:36:27 pm
Damn that looks great!
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: mcshroom on 14 October, 2015, 08:59:26 pm
Day 5 - Achmelvich - Stornoway (57 km)

The pressure of a fixed time ferry changes the mood a little, so to give ourselves lots of time we got off to an early start, and rode round into Lochinver, where we missed the road to the shop and instead had a very nice breakfast at the Lochinver Mission near the docks
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Rm2v_UnZQkk/VhAyqZvefvI/AAAAAAAALOk/zzUTpjggdgY/s640-Ic42/20151001_094203.jpg)

Of course, like all good audax controls, breakfast was followed by a steep climb away from the Loch, and then we snaked round a narrow road that felt far higher than it was before plunging again down to the seafront at Inverkirkaig, and then really up our first chevron of the tour before gain dropping down to the coast, following the edge of the cliffs and feeling like we were the only people for miles
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GnMOoEJRG8c/Vg_-1AXTU0I/AAAAAAAALOk/SBE6CCzfOcY/s800-Ic42/DSCF1999.JPG)

The cloud had rolled in overnight, but the scenery was still brilliant.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZSzIccspjIw/VhrRidGIGfI/AAAAAAAALOk/Gx5CPDme55g/s800-Ic42/DSCF2005.JPG)

Then after climbing to the highest point of the day (was it really only 131m!?) the sun came out as appropriately we reached the Summer Isles road.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-602K-H4ABs0/VhrR4KzhpOI/AAAAAAAALOk/EHkyF8cwyLQ/s800-Ic42/DSCF2014.JPG)

The road along this valley is wonderful, like riding to Wasdale Head in the Lakes, but much longer, and with even better views that just keep coming, as you pass the toothy rocks of Stac Polliadh, and the numerous other large peaks surrounding long lochs. After the continual climbing and decending of the coast road, this road was well surfaced and gently graded leading to some of the best riding of the tour :)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-w6FECvGZU2Y/VhAyI8TFouI/AAAAAAAALOk/JroiUoNin64/s640-Ic42/20151001_134043.jpg)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-eQogng1QyrU/VhAx0vtV4zI/AAAAAAAALOk/uwSkLF5N0_k/s640-Ic42/20151001_135308.jpg)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ogo67k4sV6Q/VhAyC2PI7xI/AAAAAAAALOk/_0YM3Q8d55w/s640-Ic42/20151001_134620.jpg)

Eventually we left the valley and picked up the A835 south to Ullapool. Foolishly I looked at the 120m elevation we had, and the 14km left to the ferry and decided it would be mainly downhill. Er no it isn't. You give up that height very quickly, and then there's a series of climbs until only 3km from the port which was hard work after the morning's riding and in the heavier traffic. We did manage to make it through in time though, and the enjoyed a very welcome fish and chips before jumping on a ferry to Lewis*, where after a quick Supermarket stop for flowers and wine we met the lovely Windies who were our excellent hosts for the night.

Day 6 - Stornoway to er, Stornoway (9 km)

Having ridden some hilly roads for the first 5 days, today we had a day off. After giving Windy the YACF Visitors Book we walked down to the laundrette in town, had a look at a specialist tea shop, drank lots of coffee and eventually collected our bags and relocated to a campsite on the edge of town, before going back into town to get dinner and stock up. It was actually nice to have a relaxing day, and to reset for the next leg of the tour.

(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/567/21892544216_cd23e3a008_c.jpg)


*On the old ferry bikes got on last, on the new one they are supposed to get on first. Ours ended up being lashed in a corner at the rear of the car deck.
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: mcshroom on 14 October, 2015, 09:20:43 pm
Day 7 - Stornoway to Ravenspoint Hostel (36 km)

Recharged for the next trip we set out south out of Stornoway, after a quick trip to visit a local statue ::-)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h-koJD7BIUQ/VhAxSQOtVuI/AAAAAAAALOk/Amz14LziWh0/s640-Ic42/20151003_120703.jpg)

On a Saturday the Tarbert ferry only runs at mid day, and we didn't have any chance of making it there without a silly early start, so we decided to stop at a Bunkhouse towards the South of the Isle of Lewis. After climbing out of the town (which was much more pleasant this time than in the pouring rain when I last rode there in 2012) the road passes across large expanses of peat moorland, marked with lines where turfs have been cut for centuries for heating homes and cooking food, and every now and then a house or the remains of one. It really feels an empty place, and one where you visit on it's terms, untamed by urbanisation.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nLHZsIsqPD0/VhrR8mKWlpI/AAAAAAAALOk/viD3U4Gpmyo/s800-Ic42/DSCF2015.JPG)

Three kilometers before the hostel I heard a pinging noise, and then a rattle from my rear wheel. One of the NDS spokes had snapped (in the middle), and so I making it safe I rode on to the hostel on 35 spokes.

The hostel itself is great. With a full kitchen (where I fitted my spare spoke, without having to remove cassette or tyre!), sitting room with leather sofas and a TV, and three dorms. We had one dorm to ourselves, and shared the house with a lovely couple who were touring (inna car) from America.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/764/22148150585_91e8686f8b_k.jpg)

There is also a community shop attached to the hostel, with a wide range of food and very helpful staff (even if you manage to book the hostel for the wrong day :-[) and behind there's a small visitors centre looking at local crofting history, and with a full size model of a sea eagle.

For some reason I don't have photos of this place, but it was very nice - http://www.visitscotland.com/info/accommodation/ravenspoint-hostel-lewis-p914361
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: Basil on 14 October, 2015, 09:33:38 pm
Day 5 - Achmelvich - Stornoway (57 km)
[...]
 this road was well surfaced and genitally graded leading to some of the best riding of the tour :)

Erm.   ???   :o

 ;D
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: Ruthie on 14 October, 2015, 09:36:10 pm
That couple were really good fun, weren't they?  And someone had planted some Free Church sermon CDs in the kitchen, I think we managed to listen to about ten minutes before we hit the Off button, hard.  The Grace of God chasing you down like a bailiff, not my kind of religion at all.

Meeting the Windies was lovely, not least because they provided a mountain of fabulous home-made food, along with their company.  And their wood burning stove.  Real beds, too, lovely.  I felt like I'd met a celebrity.

I think descending past Stac Pollaidh might have been one of the greatest moments of my life. 

Whereas being confronted with Yet Another Climb on the way to Ullapool I fear I may have said 'and what the fuck is that?' to poor mcshroom, and it really wasn't his fault.  Highs and lows, every day, in every way.  Magic it was.
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: Polar Bear on 14 October, 2015, 09:43:10 pm
Stuff of legends those Windies.   :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: mcshroom on 14 October, 2015, 09:44:19 pm
Day 8 - Ravenspoint Hostel to Uig (42 km)
Sunday in the Outer Hebrides is a day of rest and prayer. The shops don't open, and the roads are incredibly quiet other than the cars heading to church. It was also the day we were catching our ferry off of the Island, and between us and that ferry was the climb through the North Harris Mountains past Clisham.

Before the hills, though, we were treated to a sunlit view over the large sea loch Ravenspoint overlooks.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5rGNsd5BKkY/VhrSCZPnMxI/AAAAAAAALOk/l6HPhpCROcM/s800-Ic42/DSCF2017.JPG)

It's amazing how the sun brings out beauty in landscapes that has seemed flat and uninviting in the clouds the previous day.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VEBvYejXhEc/VhrSEoBmjdI/AAAAAAAALOk/3Q-OrwtU3fk/s800-Ic42/DSCF2018.JPG)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7mnh2QlKhDw/VhrSPj7-mWI/AAAAAAAALOk/Mkq06j83lvw/s800-Ic42/DSCF2020.JPG)

Along the route there was a monument to the Island Crofters, and one explaining that this was where Bonny Prince Charlie had landed when on the run in the 18th Century. The first of many Jacobite sites we would pass on the remainder of the tour.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-a46iF3XpqwI/VhrQWnW669I/AAAAAAAALOk/FIBAhdV-vic/s640-Ic42/20151004_121402.jpg)

All the time in the distance we could see the Hills coming, with a little cloud gathering over them to add atmosphere
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7kjjoYlZmLI/VhrSXHjpC4I/AAAAAAAALOk/QtF6ROOM3Zo/s800-Ic42/DSCF2023.JPG)

The climb over the top has an oddity that really irritated me the first time I rode it. Normally if you can see a transmitter mast, that's at the top of the hill and you can target it. However on this climb the road goes round the back of the transmitter, gets even steeper and carries on.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lMJSF-A3qao/VhrSc-tx2DI/AAAAAAAALOk/I1ZVJeFlUqM/s800-Ic42/DSCF2024.JPG)

It's a slow ride to the top with luggage, and the hills on either side tower up, imposing themselves on your mind. Every now and then you find a piece of the old, single track road that used to be the main road over the hill, and even sometimes some bridges
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8TMhUko4hJ0/VhrQ1iPLgJI/AAAAAAAALOk/Y-Cjo5brPvg/s640-Ic42/20151004_131612.jpg)

Then there's a very long, fast decent, looking out over the Atlantic towards Taransay.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yN1BK29UWVs/VhrSg3JhiXI/AAAAAAAALOk/3H5CCh9aewY/s800-Ic42/DSCF2025.JPG)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4Aj9KNVZ8HA/VhrSqjlOHqI/AAAAAAAALOk/3daSkGLwrJM/s640-Ic42/DSCF2027.JPG)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GRu8Wq6Ewyg/VhrRgPzOuWI/AAAAAAAALOk/rKLISidJxdI/s640-Ic42/20151004_144252.jpg)

Of course the Atlantic is on the far side of the Island, so the road then swings inland and brings you past a conspicuously modern and bright white Secondary School/Sport Centre, and then down to the Ferry terminal

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nCMp-UfLGX0/VhrR8_I9dJI/AAAAAAAALOk/P_447YR9sqw/s640-Ic42/20151004_153303.jpg)

Our ferry, the MV Hebrides backed out of the narrow harbour and then set off for Skye. We met another tourist on the ferry, who was doing a short island tour. While I was talking to him, he suddenly jumped up and ran to the window. Beside the boat briefly was a pod of Dolphins :D

Unfortunately they were gone by the time I managed to get a camera out of my bag, and even more unfortunately Ruthie missed them as she was in the toilets at the time. Still a wonderful sight seeing them bouncing around in the ferry's wake.

From the ferry it was then a very short ride to the campsite, simply ride off the pier and turn left at the end. We were now on Skye :)
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: mcshroom on 14 October, 2015, 09:49:46 pm
That couple were really good fun, weren't they?  And someone had planted some Free Church sermon CDs in the kitchen, I think we managed to listen to about ten minutes before we hit the Off button, hard.  The Grace of God chasing you down like a bailiff, not my kind of religion at all.

Meeting the Windies was lovely, not least because they provided a mountain of fabulous home-made food, along with their company.  And their wood burning stove.  Real beds, too, lovely.  I felt like I'd met a celebrity.

I think descending past Stac Pollaidh might have been one of the greatest moments of my life. 

Whereas being confronted with Yet Another Climb on the way to Ullapool I fear I may have said 'and what the fuck is that?' to poor mcshroom, and it really wasn't his fault.  Highs and lows, every day, in every way.  Magic it was.

I remember the look I got when I informed you that the hill we were on was 'the penultimate climb' ;D
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: Ruthie on 14 October, 2015, 09:51:21 pm
Ah, yes.  The day I stopped for a pee on the verge and found I was pouring with blood from my bum.  Outside.  In public.  That's pouring by my standards, which are not easily met.  We're talking at least 2/3 of a pint.   And felt like I was seriously, seriously about to pass out.  I really wasn't very well.  Not the high point of my holiday, and it was a couple of days before I felt better.  Still bleeding a lot on the ferry, and missed the dolphins as a result.  You couldn't make it up.  But never mind, it was in such a state of ill-health that I climbed The Clisham, fully loaded.  I am a cycling goddess.  Trufack.

And I was still loving it, too.  Just a bit weary at the top  :)
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: Ruthie on 14 October, 2015, 09:55:16 pm
That couple were really good fun, weren't they?  And someone had planted some Free Church sermon CDs in the kitchen, I think we managed to listen to about ten minutes before we hit the Off button, hard.  The Grace of God chasing you down like a bailiff, not my kind of religion at all.

Meeting the Windies was lovely, not least because they provided a mountain of fabulous home-made food, along with their company.  And their wood burning stove.  Real beds, too, lovely.  I felt like I'd met a celebrity.

I think descending past Stac Pollaidh might have been one of the greatest moments of my life. 

Whereas being confronted with Yet Another Climb on the way to Ullapool I fear I may have said 'and what the fuck is that?' to poor mcshroom, and it really wasn't his fault.  Highs and lows, every day, in every way.  Magic it was.

I remember the look I got when I informed you that 'this is the penultimate climb' ;D

"Marcus, that's not what I want to hear."

It explained why Ullapool was so much, er, smaller than I'd expected though.  It was in fact the little village at the foot of the penultimate climb, Ardmair I think.  My disappointment must have been palpable.  And audible.
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: mcshroom on 14 October, 2015, 09:55:49 pm
Ah, yes.  The day I stopped for a pee on the verge and found I was pouring with blood from my bum.  Outside.  In public.  That's pouring by my standards, which are not easily met.  We're talking at least 2/3 of a pint.   And felt like I was seriously, seriously about to pass out.  I really wasn't very well.  Not the high point of my holiday, and it was a couple of days before I felt better.  Still bleeding a lot on the ferry, and missed the dolphins as a result.  You couldn't make it up.  But never mind, it was in such a state of ill-health that I climbed The Clisham, fully loaded.  I am a cycling goddess.  Trufack.

And I was still loving it, too.  Just a bit weary at the top  :)

I knew you were feeling poorly, but you never told me about that!
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: Ruthie on 14 October, 2015, 09:57:00 pm
Ah, yes.  The day I stopped for a pee on the verge and found I was pouring with blood from my bum.  Outside.  In public.  That's pouring by my standards, which are not easily met.  We're talking at least 2/3 of a pint.   And felt like I was seriously, seriously about to pass out.  I really wasn't very well.  Not the high point of my holiday, and it was a couple of days before I felt better.  Still bleeding a lot on the ferry, and missed the dolphins as a result.  You couldn't make it up.  But never mind, it was in such a state of ill-health that I climbed The Clisham, fully loaded.  I am a cycling goddess.  Trufack.

And I was still loving it, too.  Just a bit weary at the top  :)

I knew you were feeling poorly, but you never told me about that!

I didn't want to worry you.  And anyway, how do you broach that topic?
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: mcshroom on 14 October, 2015, 09:58:01 pm
Good point
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: Ruthie on 14 October, 2015, 10:23:06 pm
TMI?
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: mcshroom on 14 October, 2015, 10:37:43 pm
TMI?

I meant it was a hard subject to broach
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: Kim on 14 October, 2015, 10:42:21 pm
Ah, yes.  The day I stopped for a pee on the verge and found I was pouring with blood from my bum.  Outside.  In public.  That's pouring by my standards, which are not easily met.  We're talking at least 2/3 of a pint.   And felt like I was seriously, seriously about to pass out.  I really wasn't very well.  Not the high point of my holiday, and it was a couple of days before I felt better.  Still bleeding a lot on the ferry, and missed the dolphins as a result.  You couldn't make it up.  But never mind, it was in such a state of ill-health that I climbed The Clisham, fully loaded.  I am a cycling goddess.  Trufack.

And I was still loving it, too.  Just a bit weary at the top  :)

*salutes*


I've had my fair share of TMI on bike rides, but that's above and beyond...   :o
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: Ruthie on 15 October, 2015, 07:11:56 pm
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5779/21924120148_4186a2fc28_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/zpmR6w)Northwest Highlands 2015 054 (https://flic.kr/p/zpmR6w) by Ruth Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/106826773@N02/), on Flickr

The Supermoon at Durness

(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/654/21923884360_c6d7db376f_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/zpkD1d)Northwest Highlands 2015 048 (https://flic.kr/p/zpkD1d) by Ruth Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/106826773@N02/), on Flickr
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: mcshroom on 20 October, 2015, 11:39:03 pm
Right - back to the report :)

Day 9 - Uig to Sligachan (42 km)

We awoke to a sunny morning, on our campsite overlooking the sea at Uig
(http://[img]https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5682/21924101219_a0148b556a_z.jpg)

However the wind was starting to get up, and rain was forecast for later, so we packed up and headed South into the heart of Skye. The road starts with a long, steady climb out of the cove where Uig and the port sit, at the top giving a final view out over the bay before setting off into the cloudy interior.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-voCIVKq0sDg/Via63bVEziI/AAAAAAAALPo/uiqmnK36eWQ/s800-Ic42/DSCF2029.JPG)

The wind was starting to increase, and the Cuillin hills far off in front of us faded into the grey approaching. At an Audax hotel a little north of Portree we decided to stop for a food and wind break, when a family in a car stopped at the side of the bus stop to ask directions. I had no idea where they were after, but had access to a map, so after fighting with the wind as I unpacked it, I basically stuffed the whole unfolded map in the car and told the young lady inside to look for where they were going. It turned out to be miles away at the other end of the island. ???

We then rode into Portree and had a proper tea/coffee stop. This took a little longer than planned as all the cafes in the town square had queues of School pupils out of the doors. We eventually found a cafe without a queue opposite the YMCA, and after lunch, and then stocking up on supplies, we resumed our ride down the A87 as the rain started falling around us to Sligachan campsite.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-v90iOPnN6Mo/VhrSx4xiK-I/AAAAAAAALOk/h_0UMrA8gi4/s800-Ic42/DSCF2030.JPG)

The rain wasn't too bad when we arrived, but then we got onto pitching tents, and a full storm roared up. We found that a major advantage of touring as a pair was that one person could hold down a tent while the other pegged down everything possible to stop it blowing away. Tents up two very wet cyclists then ritired across the road to the Sligachan Inn, and it's wood fire, in front of which we spent the rest of the evening, before finally retiring into tents bellowing and bending in the wind.


Day 10 - Afternoon Trip to Raasay (26km)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5620/21489820383_20aeb27ff3_z.jpg)

It was still raining in the morning, and, after finding out that a fellow camper's tent had broken in the night, and he had switched to his backup (which was a bigger version of Ruthie's tent) we again sought shelter inside the inn while this passed over. We decided that today would be a day off to do some washing and have a rest. As the rain stopped in the early afternoon however, there was still time to get out and do a bit of exploring. Ruthie demonstrated her well honed camp culinary skills preparing a very tasty stir fry, and then we set out on what felt like skittish little racing bikes to Sconser and the ferry port.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wlW59rn6J_M/VhrTYaIQA4I/AAAAAAAALOk/U0x1xyE7Xwc/s512-Ic42/20151006_131110.jpg)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-M5h6oDiXfJE/VhrS-zQKBUI/AAAAAAAALOk/DLkhey3vu3E/s800-Ic42/DSCF2034.JPG)

The ferry over had outside seating, so we could see the Island approaching as we followed what felt like a rather drunken route round the deep water channel to Raasay, passing a swimming cormorant (but no dolphins) on the way
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yC5uyh-8KAo/VhrT6sQCi4I/AAAAAAAALOk/LIj0f4qa0TU/s640-Ic42/20151006_151514.jpg)

Raasay is a wonderful little island. There's only a small population, mainly based around the village next to the Ferry terminal, but it's sheltered deciduous woodland made it feel a bit like riding in English country lanes. After climbing out of the woodlands though, the scenery was breathtaking

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qfz9hl_0spA/VhrWBcxmhZI/AAAAAAAALOk/Dbr9p7uL0nc/s640-Ic42/20151006_160047.jpg)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zfZsxBImsfI/VhrYUJUC_-I/AAAAAAAALOk/MlVE1sCQxXU/s800-Ic42/20151006_160547.jpg)

We rode along the steeply undulating higher road north on the island with an idea that we might ride up to the abandoned villages at the north end, but the morning rain had stolen too much of the day, and eventually we turned back to make sure we got back in time for the ferry. Definitely somewhere to get out and do more exploring in the future.

We arrived back in time to get a drink at Rassay House, served by a friendly but pretty useless barista (he managed to scald himself, had three goes at making enough milk for Ruthie's latte, which he then spilt when trying to hand over and then forgot what he'd just served when pricing up).

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HHn7OZLRyFI/VhraXJD0CtI/AAAAAAAALOk/edZexo7qEbs/s640-Ic42/20151006_172534.jpg)

Then we wandered down to the mermaids on the dock, and caught the ferry back into the fading light and back to the campsite.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/676/22195466115_10a23b1ae3_k.jpg)
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: mcshroom on 20 October, 2015, 11:55:44 pm
Day 11 - Sligachan to Ashaig (34 km)
We set off quite early and, with the sun shining, rode back down the road past Sconser again, a bit slower with all the gear. The wind had dropped, the sun was out and the views, so foreboding in the previous morning's mist and cloud, softened to dazzling blues and browns.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ERTDDoPMJpM/VhrTPl1PsRI/AAAAAAAALOk/l6fu2_dXT_c/s800-Ic42/DSCF2039.JPG)

After passing through Sconser we then headed inland up into the Cullins on a road that I had ridden three years previously, while being harried by the lashing rain of a thunderstorm. This time, however, it was far more benign
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Zq4T6yzA0b4/VhrTz5PLEeI/AAAAAAAALOk/Z0WwSDemR38/s912-Ic42/DSCF2046.JPG)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-l1rBOT4A4As/VhrUJVATzgI/AAAAAAAALOk/KGWbR9E1kD8/s800-Ic42/DSCF2050.JPG)
Over the top, down past a waterfall swelled by the recent rain, and then the route returned to the coastline, guiding us pleasantly into Broadford, and to a Pizzaria that served very nice (and welcome) pizzas. I was especially pleased with the daily special topped with Scallops and Black Pudding :)

From Broadford we headed south to a junction, and a choice of route. We could either turn right and head down to Armadale to pick up a ferry to Mallaig and the Road to the Isles, or head left and towards the Skye Bridge. We chose the latter, and turned East along the road towards our link back to the mainland. That was not for today though. We stopped short of the bridge at a quirky campsite at Ashaig. It was a mixture of camping areas, some new properly built stuff like a big shower wet room, and lots of other things bodged together from old junk and packaging in a sort of clichéd 'eco-friendly' way. The site was also overflown by a Buzzard when we arrived
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-r2MCwPCj5VY/VhrUcn9nCYI/AAAAAAAALOk/baD1BFbXTls/s800-Ic42/DSCF2054.JPG)

After pitching, we wandered down the hill from the site towards the sea, and a most beautiful stony beach looking over Scalpay and towards Applecross and the mainland.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OTcNsa6SME4/VhrUghNcAKI/AAAAAAAALOk/QUi4Ee-29H8/s800-Ic42/DSCF2055.JPG)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JYA6OoYxZ2A/Vhram2fA8AI/AAAAAAAALOk/IPu6jRjVj-g/s640-Ic42/20151007_163547.jpg)

We explored the rock pools along the coastline, and then sat down on a large rock in the middle of a stream. Just then a small water plane flew very low straight over our heads, bright yellow against the blue sky. Unfortunately it was so unexpected I didn't have a camera on hand to capture it. Good end to our last full day on Skye. The following morning we would make for the Bridge, and our island adventure would be ended.
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: Ruthie on 21 October, 2015, 12:08:27 am
The road on Raasay is unbelievable.  It's relentlessly up at first through the woods and then continues with more up and the occasional undulation till you find yourself riding on what could be the North York Moors except for the idyllic sea views.  It must be in my top ten bike rides,  possibly even top three,  and I will go back and complete the ride to the end of the road one day.

The road seems to pull you on,  New vistas and landscapes  round every corner.  We came back along the coast road along sheltered walled avenues.  Oh I wish I was there now.
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: Peter on 21 October, 2015, 12:27:29 am
This is lovely stuff, thanks!
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: Vince on 21 October, 2015, 04:03:05 am
I'm really enjoying this write up and the great photos.
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: sg37409 on 21 October, 2015, 08:36:58 am
Ace  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: woollypigs on 21 October, 2015, 09:12:58 am
Brilliant! :)
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: JenM on 21 October, 2015, 09:53:06 am
I've loved your adventure and photos and re-lived some memories of some of my cycling trips.

I agree that Raasay needs further exploration - I didn't get further than the youth hostel years and years ago. The road in Raasay has an interesting history being built largely by a crofter called Callum MacLeod. See http://www.amazon.co.uk/Calums-Road-Roger-Hutchinson/dp/1841586773  (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Calums-Road-Roger-Hutchinson/dp/1841586773)

Great weather as well!

PS Pizzas at Broadford - I had to complain about mine as it was raw in the middle. The chef was the trainee - good to see he has got his act together
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: andrewc on 21 October, 2015, 10:01:21 am
Lovely stuff.   :thumbsup:     I stayed at the Ashaig campsite on my last trip up there.
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: perpetual dan on 21 October, 2015, 11:11:20 am
That brings back fond memories of camping at Sligachan when I was 18, getting to befriend some nice Dutch girls after their tent was blown into a very strange shape and a couple of blokes who had a backpacking tent pitched inside their frame tent as insurance against the wind.
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: JohnR on 21 October, 2015, 03:05:10 pm
Loved every instalment, felt like I was with you all the way.

Thanks for sharing  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: tonyh on 21 October, 2015, 03:12:25 pm
Yes indeed, absolutely first-class story-telling with pictures. Thankyou!
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: mcshroom on 21 October, 2015, 03:18:59 pm
I'm glad you'ev enjoyed the report. It was a great ride and I really enjoyed the trip :)

There's one more segment to come, heading into the Great Glen which I hope to write up tonight, and I'll try to tie up with some ideas of route, a list of sites used and general thoughts on the trip. Sorry it's coming in bits, but I've got a lot of other calls on my time at the moment so haven't been able to sit down and write the whole lot. :)
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: Canardly on 21 October, 2015, 04:14:46 pm
Another great report.
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: mcshroom on 21 October, 2015, 09:34:01 pm
Day 12 - Ashaig to Glenshiel (36km)
Leaving Skye led to the section of the tour that I felt that morning would become a bit less exciting. We were heading away from the coast, back onto the mainland and with an itinerary set more by making it to our trains home than exploring. However there was the SKye Bridge to look forward to, and late morning we set off down the main road to find it. The bridge has quite a slope on it, taking some riding up, but you are rewarded with views out to sea and into Lochalsh. The weather was still playing ball too :)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jBaU86SeHp0/VhrUsZn4ehI/AAAAAAAALOk/p7Zi3GMVz1A/s800-Ic42/DSCF2058.JPG)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qMNZtxeFXcE/VhrVCdCXbJI/AAAAAAAALOk/IHGzVAEeeBQ/s800-Ic42/DSCF2063.JPG)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-P2U16G8inHQ/VhrU0_NKIFI/AAAAAAAALOk/qChW_-G2P9I/s800-Ic42/DSCF2061.JPG)

Rolling down the other side we picked up some postcards to write home, and then found a cafe to write them in near the harbour. On the way out of Kyle of Lochalsh you pass the station, an unusual affair, with four platforms jutting out into the Loch where before the bridge, ferries could have pulled up alongside to carry the passengers over to the island. Then, despite the route mainly following the side of Lochalsh for the day, we headed out of town up a steep hill, stopping for a short while at a viewpoint at the top, showing the bridge and our last view of open sea of the tour.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CZfyzDBznx8/VhratgR0GDI/AAAAAAAALOk/Cac4085mTa0/s640-Ic42/20151008_134213.jpg)

The next feature of our tour was a complete surprise. We turned into a car park next to Dornie village hall, partly to take a picture of the bridge, and partly because I'd spotted a cake shop (sadly closed). What we hadn't expected was this: -
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mLuIBSESVRM/Vhra9rcJBMI/AAAAAAAALOk/c3maDVhqc2w/s640-Ic42/20151008_143521.jpg)

Eilean Donan Castle, built in Medieval times and once Garrison to Jackobite armies marching from the sea. We had to stop and look around, after passing the village of Dornie with it's Tobermory-esque painted houses along the Lochside (I wonder which one was the Pub? ;D)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wyOGh3CZxo4/VhrVeR4Lz1I/AAAAAAAALOk/2UpOJzjlTYE/s800-Ic42/DSCF2068.JPG)

Close up the castle looks very pretty.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Kx7YovCMIqQ/VhrVmVwMwMI/AAAAAAAALOk/Sz-m7qNwKPY/s800-Ic42/DSCF2070.JPG)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XVJFSSgyKUM/VhrWSs9xdRI/AAAAAAAALOk/e1Zj3HUmmic/s640-Ic42/DSCF2076.JPG)

Then it was back off along the Loch, towards the hills and our campsite for the night, which was hidden behind a petrol station (who ran the site) and we almost missed
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-swkhPnjQgbM/VhrWT-ihzwI/AAAAAAAALOk/kzCgyMnJw5o/s640-Ic42/DSCF2078.JPG)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sG-wUa9Okxc/VhrbQ4qGTwI/AAAAAAAALOk/QNd7C2o6hRo/s640-Ic42/20151008_185237.jpg)

After pitching, we went exploring the hills behind the campsite on foot. We first went bog hopping, then eventually found a trail, up passed a lovely river cascading over rocky steps, and then over the top of the first hill into a little hidden valley filled with the sound of the river, and flanked with trees. Eventually we turned for the site. Neither of us were carrying a torch at that point and it would have been silly to be caught out by the setting sun.
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: mcshroom on 21 October, 2015, 10:03:17 pm
Day 13 - Glenshiel to Faichemard (53km)
After a few short days this one was going to be a little longer, and also leaving the Sea Lochs and aiming for the Great Glen we had some climbing to do. I woke up quite early, but was then stopped from returning to my tent by this young lady
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UlhujC1ozwI/VhrWrFGjRSI/AAAAAAAALOk/lozfcSSGsPY/s640-Ic42/DSCF2080.JPG)

Every time I walked towards the tent she growled at me and wouldn't let me pass. Eventually she woke Ruthie, who is far better with dogs than me and we switched quickly from fending me off to playing fetch with stones, often distracted by the smells of the site as she went retrieving the stones. Unfortunately I got a bit careless, and threw a stone the far side of my tent. On her return, she chased the stone under the rear end of my tent, and landed on the tent, snapping my tent pole :(

My new friend followed me out of the site (apparently she lived in the house next door to the campsite), but I was getting rubbing noises from the bike, something was wrong. On inspection it became apparent I'd lost another spoke, almost directly opposite the one that was replaced on Lewis. This time, however, it was a drive side spoke, and I had no chance of replacing it. After butchering the wheel to get it to run true enough to work, we started past the Five Sisters up the hill, a hill that seemed to keep climbing even when it looked like it was going downwards ???

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-djbIkNX-6j8/VhrWsj4d4OI/AAAAAAAALOk/dgfl830fG9A/s640-Ic42/DSCF2082.JPG)

We passed Shiel Bridge, another Jacobean battle site, then upwards, upwards we slowly made our way out of the head of the valley, and up onto the highland plain above and into the low cloud that was gathering. A little after the top was the Cluanie Inn, a mixture of hotel, expensive petrol station, walkers pub and restaurant. In the lobby they also had a big bird ;D
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rMTOo_Ae4gA/VhrXg8IajcI/AAAAAAAALOk/suH4Of55-yw/s640-Ic42/DSCF2091.JPG)

The route then carries on along the side of Loch Cluanie, past the Dam at it's eastern end and down to a junction, where we left the Inverness traffic and started up our highest hill of the whole tour, rising up over 350m on the climb into Glen Garry.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Dbf4HJPczUo/VhrX-IGcEAI/AAAAAAAALOk/vE-foJf0tQc/s640-Ic42/DSCF2096.JPG)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3v1gO07KOfc/VhrX8VflMtI/AAAAAAAALOk/7yE8xcr98ag/s640-Ic42/DSCF2097.JPG)

At the high point we found something very weird. There were dozens of little cairns all over the hillside, with no apparent reason for why they were there. An unusual and slightly eerie place in the mist.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yhvrOSgs8E8/VhrYXp-HA1I/AAAAAAAALOk/3-ohjq_BbCo/s640-Ic42/DSCF2101.JPG)

From there we had finished our climbing (we thought) and sailed off down into Glen Garry (Garry seems a strange name for a Loch and Glen), pausing to stop at a missing statue, the plinth showing only four rusty bolt holes where the metal sculptue would once had been. I had a short go at being it's replacement
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/586/21959876920_101296ee16_k.jpg)

Then on to the site. Now heading for a Camp Site that advertises itself as 'Adults Only', and called 'Faichemard Farm', we were wondering a bit what we had let ourselves in for! As it was, the first thing to worry about was a long steep climb off of the A87 to the site, and up to the Reception right at the far end and highest point of the campsite!

The site was nicely laid out. Reasonably large, with quiet grass/hard standing pitches, each with their own picnic tables and all in all pretty nice. We returned to our now alloted pitch (back at the bottom of the hill) and pitched for the night. I had to do a bit of emergency surgery on my tent, but found a way of keeping it together ;D
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-A7-A2UfBUyk/VhrbXMQ34CI/AAAAAAAALOk/6pnJKqKhkJQ/s640-Ic42/20151009_184222.jpg)
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: mcshroom on 21 October, 2015, 10:47:03 pm
Day 14 - Faichemard to Fort William (50km)
Last day of the cycle tour, and this turned out to be the only day we had to put the tents away wet from the rain, which just shows how lucky we had been. We set off downhill, stopping for breakfast just before joining the A82 down the great Glen, and then turned South West, following the loch side and heading for Fort William. The road was still on the Northern side of the canal, which meant we were still on the older Highland geological plate, eventually we crossed the river on a swing bridge and we left for the southern, newer plate. The Great Glen being a rift where the two meet*.

The road was pretty busy, so we chose a gravel cycle path along the canal side to the top of Loch Lochy, rising and falling over the undulating gravel track through a small woodland. Unfortunately this proabaly wasn't good for my rear wheel. We returned to the A82 instead of taking on the rocky forestry track that the NCN route takes, and riding alongside the lake, got yet another view. One we had time to enjoy as I lost another rear spoke, and had to find a way of getting the wheel even enough to run with only 34.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jmDc0kR6ocA/VhrY2dWpyXI/AAAAAAAALOk/VOCbp9cLpsY/s640-Ic42/DSCF2108.JPG)

Wheel sort of fixed, we carried on along the main road, now unfairly rising away from the canal to over 100m. At the top of the hill was a big memorial to Commandos. I went and took some photos of this while Ruthie went of to try and blag some Irn Bru out of one of the coach tour guides in the cr park
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NbH71zp5qN4/VhrY_dXNwRI/AAAAAAAALOk/sEF9t2k4kg8/s512-Ic42/DSCF2110.JPG)

After this we had a choice. Keep riding down the main road, which was the shortest route to our destination, and with the best surface, or drop down to Gairlocy on the back roads, and lose the traffic. With the state of my rear wheel I was thinking about the former, but we decided on the Gairlochy road, a great choice as we decended down into the valley through deciduous woodland very unlike the coastal landscapes we had experienced the previous couple weeks.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VLaFweyA78o/VhrZP-SfQHI/AAAAAAAALOk/6l6GYr-Bjx8/s640-Ic42/DSCF2112.JPG)

At the bottom we had one last good surprise, we picked up the Caledonian canal again at Gairlochy, and rode a very smooth gravel towpath all the way to Fort William, finishing with a decent past the numerous locks of Neptune's staircase.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_SYdd7mmhUo/VhrZk5D3KiI/AAAAAAAALOk/tJvdK36_Nsc/s640-Ic42/DSCF2117.JPG)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OSqN8eFmmDQ/VhrZnpNcN6I/AAAAAAAALOk/kMmMKobv5uw/s640-Ic42/DSCF2118.JPG)

This was a wonderful finish to the ride.

We booked in at our campsite, and the receptionist was able to direct us to the LBS. Dropping all the bags in the site reception we then, unladen headed off to Inverlochy, over a footbridge and past a yard where the steam engines were kept that run along the Fort William - Mallaig line on special exursions
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Vfq4JXDO-EA/VhrbeHdwANI/AAAAAAAALOk/dwjz0XculHw/s800-Ic42/20151010_161306.jpg)

The bike shop was a proper cycle shop, not a selling bikes shop. It had a large number of new bikes, mainly mountain bikes on display, but also had a big workshop and a selection of refurbished bikes, along with shelves of useful bits and pieces. :)

The mechanic was unfazed when I asked for a 292mm and a 290mm spoke, and pulled them promply from a shelf. He also let me borrow his tools to remove the cassette and fit the spokes. The total cost when I asked at the end was a whole 80p.

Wheel fixed we headed off into Fort William itself, and our final destination on the tour :)

Fort William felt like a big city after the tiny hamlets and villages we had visited over the last fortnight. We wondered up and down the main street before stopping for a coffee, then worked out how get to the station and headed back to the site to pitch our tents. In the evening we returned for dinner, each having nice big steaks in a restaurant where the steak was good, the starters not quite as good, and the waitresses a bit heavy handed with the plates and bottles etc. Then full and happy retired to our tents :)





*On a previous tour I had spent a lot of time reading a board about this while waiting for the Camnusnagal ferry across to Fort William, as the ferry didn't turn up ::-)

Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: Deano on 21 October, 2015, 10:52:45 pm
Excellent - thanks, guys.

Any chance of a map showing your overall route?
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: Ruthie on 21 October, 2015, 10:58:29 pm
There's one on mcshroom's Facebook page.

There was a big group of riders just after that last photo,  I think they were novices out on a guided ride.  The ride leader said as we went past "anyone who's worried they're carrying too much stuff... "
 ;D
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: mcshroom on 21 October, 2015, 11:23:18 pm
Excellent - thanks, guys.

Any chance of a map showing your overall route?

Overall route: -
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-412jy0wVBEI/VigPpq-juoI/AAAAAAAALQw/vk9_ZMEsR9g/s512-Ic42/Highlands%252520Tour-1.png) (http://macnet.org.uk/test/yacf/Highlands%20Tour-1.png)
(Click for bigger)

Distance covered - 604.6 km / 375.7 miles
Climbing - 6344 m / 20814 ft
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: Peter on 22 October, 2015, 12:32:37 am
Superb - I did a bit of ferreting and came across this:-

"The small cairns are to commemorate the death of Willie MacRae 5-4-1985, a politician from Dornie who was reputed to have been murdered, although the official view was that he had committed suicide, very much disputed. His proper memorial is actually about half a mile further on from this site."

Further, I feel connected: the steam engine is a Geordie one in spite of being Midland in allocation.  I'm not a Geordie, except to people who are not from the North-East.  It was built by Armstrong Whitworth on Tyneside.  Current connection is that's The Lancashire Fusilier!

Once again, thank you!

Peter
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: Torslanda on 23 October, 2015, 09:16:42 am
I looked that up on Wikipedia, what a story!

Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: Ruthie on 23 October, 2015, 09:52:55 am
I looked that up on Wikipedia, what a story!

It really is!

We couldn't find any information at all when we were there.  Top ferreting Peter.

Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: SandyV on 23 October, 2015, 10:48:35 am
I enjoyed reading your story very much.  It looks like a lovely part of the world.
Thank you (and I hope you are completely recovered).   :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: Ruthie on 24 October, 2015, 10:36:44 pm
I enjoyed reading your story very much.  It looks like a lovely part of the world.
Thank you (and I hope you are completely recovered).   :thumbsup:

Thanks Sandy, from half of the terrible duo.
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: Mrs Pingu on 24 October, 2015, 11:01:17 pm
You weren't tempted to get back to the mainland by the Glenelg ferry then?  That's an amazing road.
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: Ruthie on 24 October, 2015, 11:05:06 pm
You weren't tempted to get back to the mainland by the Glenelg ferry then?  That's an amazing road.

The wind was so strong that day we figured the ferry probably wouldn't run.  We were running to train deadlines by then and couldn't risk being delayed.

Another time - definitely.

Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: Graeme on 17 November, 2015, 01:45:38 pm
Finally managed to finish this report - you two are totes amazeballs. Chapeau.
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: SoreTween on 05 December, 2015, 08:02:22 pm
Top riding and reporting both.  Another corner of the country on my must cycle tour list.
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: eck on 05 December, 2015, 09:05:14 pm
Both Ruthie and mcsshroom already know this, but their report has inspired a friend and me to have a go at a (much less ambitious) tour next year. After years of doing the same old same old, including lots of audaxes, I now seem to have a much more relaxed attitude to my cycling, thanks to doing lots of easy rides this year with her, she is more interested in enjoying the journey than trying to complete it in the shortest possible time!
Funny, that hadn't occurred to me before, and, you know what? I really really like it.  So, yes, we are contemplating a short tour next spring.
Neither of us has done any cycle camping before, but she assures me it will be fun. Not "like fun, only different", but actual fun.  :thumbsup:

So, thanks Ruthie and mcshroom for the inspiration.  :)

Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: Ruthie on 05 December, 2015, 10:17:31 pm
she is more interested in enjoying the journey than trying to complete it in the shortest possible time!
Funny, that hadn't occurred to me before, and, you know what? I really really like it. 

Finally.  You're doing it right  ;)   :D
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: eck on 05 December, 2015, 10:29:50 pm
she is more interested in enjoying the journey than trying to complete it in the shortest possible time!
Funny, that hadn't occurred to me before, and, you know what? I really really like it. 

Finally.  You're doing it right  ;)   :D
;D  Not to the total exclusion of "chewing the stem", but it's such a refreshing change! We often just go out and MIUAWGA, no pre-planned route, just enjoy the ride.   :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: Bairn Again on 05 December, 2015, 10:42:31 pm
I now seem to have a much more relaxed attitude to my cycling

I very much look forward to seeing this in evidence on the Forfar - Auchenblae section the next time I'm riding from Embra up to Aberdeen. :thumbsup:   
Title: Re: Sea, Scenery and Supermoon! Ruthie and Mcshroom's Scottish Saunter
Post by: hondated on 28 December, 2017, 09:35:18 pm
Day 13 - Glenshiel to Faichemard (53km)
After a few short days this one was going to be a little longer, and also leaving the Sea Lochs and aiming for the Great Glen we had some climbing to do. I woke up quite early, but was then stopped from returning to my tent by this young lady
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UlhujC1ozwI/VhrWrFGjRSI/AAAAAAAALOk/lozfcSSGsPY/s640-Ic42/DSCF2080.JPG)

Every time I walked towards the tent she growled at me and wouldn't let me pass. Eventually she woke Ruthie, who is far better with dogs than me and we switched quickly from fending me off to playing fetch with stones, often distracted by the smells of the site as she went retrieving the stones. Unfortunately I got a bit careless, and threw a stone the far side of my tent. On her return, she chased the stone under the rear end of my tent, and landed on the tent, snapping my tent pole :(
Just to let you know then even two years later here is someone who enjoyed reading about your travels. Very inspirational Thank you

My new friend followed me out of the site (apparently she lived in the house next door to the campsite), but I was getting rubbing noises from the bike, something was wrong. On inspection it became apparent I'd lost another spoke, almost directly opposite the one that was replaced on Lewis. This time, however, it was a drive side spoke, and I had no chance of replacing it. After butchering the wheel to get it to run true enough to work, we started past the Five Sisters up the hill, a hill that seemed to keep climbing even when it looked like it was going downwards ???

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-djbIkNX-6j8/VhrWsj4d4OI/AAAAAAAALOk/dgfl830fG9A/s640-Ic42/DSCF2082.JPG)

We passed Shiel Bridge, another Jacobean battle site, then upwards, upwards we slowly made our way out of the head of the valley, and up onto the highland plain above and into the low cloud that was gathering. A little after the top was the Cluanie Inn, a mixture of hotel, expensive petrol station, walkers pub and restaurant. In the lobby they also had a big bird ;D
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rMTOo_Ae4gA/VhrXg8IajcI/AAAAAAAALOk/suH4Of55-yw/s640-Ic42/DSCF2091.JPG)

The route then carries on along the side of Loch Cluanie, past the Dam at it's eastern end and down to a junction, where we left the Inverness traffic and started up our highest hill of the whole tour, rising up over 350m on the climb into Glen Garry.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Dbf4HJPczUo/VhrX-IGcEAI/AAAAAAAALOk/vE-foJf0tQc/s640-Ic42/DSCF2096.JPG)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3v1gO07KOfc/VhrX8VflMtI/AAAAAAAALOk/7yE8xcr98ag/s640-Ic42/DSCF2097.JPG)

At the high point we found something very weird. There were dozens of little cairns all over the hillside, with no apparent reason for why they were there. An unusual and slightly eerie place in the mist.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yhvrOSgs8E8/VhrYXp-HA1I/AAAAAAAALOk/3-ohjq_BbCo/s640-Ic42/DSCF2101.JPG)

From there we had finished our climbing (we thought) and sailed off down into Glen Garry (Garry seems a strange name for a Loch and Glen), pausing to stop at a missing statue, the plinth showing only four rusty bolt holes where the metal sculptue would once had been. I had a short go at being it's replacement
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/586/21959876920_101296ee16_k.jpg)

Then on to the site. Now heading for a Camp Site that advertises itself as 'Adults Only', and called 'Faichemard Farm', we were wondering a bit what we had let ourselves in for! As it was, the first thing to worry about was a long steep climb off of the A87 to the site, and up to the Reception right at the far end and highest point of the campsite!

The site was nicely laid out. Reasonably large, with quiet grass/hard standing pitches, each with their own picnic tables and all in all pretty nice. We returned to our now alloted pitch (back at the bottom of the hill) and pitched for the night. I had to do a bit of emergency surgery on my tent, but found a way of keeping it together ;D
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-A7-A2UfBUyk/VhrbXMQ34CI/AAAAAAAALOk/6pnJKqKhkJQ/s640-Ic42/20151009_184222.jpg)