Best way to reduce bikeweight

[LeFlic]

I have committed to doing the Marmotte next year and so as well as losing some kilos from my body I would like to get the weight of the bike down as well.

Budget is limited so where would you suggest the money is best spent?

Currently - Cannondale Synapse carbon frame, Campag Centaur 9 speed groupset (Compact UT Veloce crankset), cheapie seatpin, stem and bars. 'Best' wheels - Easton EC90SLX with Michelin Pro Race 3 tyres.

My thinking is to look for a 2nd hand Record carbon crankset and rear mech and then carbon seatpin, stem and bars (to give a bit more comfort as well as weight loss).

Any thoughts welcome (but don't bother with the "diet instead" debate)

LeFlic

[Gus]

Only one small bottle instead of  two big bottles.

Light saddle will save lots of weight for small amount.

[Biggsy]

Chorus (new or second-hand) provides a better money to weight ratio.  People pay a big premium for the "Record" badge even though it's only slightly better/lighter than Chorus.

Oval R700 stem (if getting a different size of stem anyway).

Second-hand single-pivot rear brake.

Ultra light inner tubes.

[inc]

Since this is specifically for riding the Marmotte and your bike is already light, this maybe not the answer you want but if you have a look at this site www.kreuzotter.de/english/espeed.htm  , it is just theoretical,  but you can input different weights and slope angle and see the small effect  bike weight has on your climbing speed at specific workloads but also  how increasing the power gives better results so it may be worth considering spending the money on  specific coaching advice to improve your engine as better value.

[LeFlic]

Inc,

Thanks for the link, the site is really useful and will be a good motivator to both lose the weight and gain some power.

I agree that this is the best way to go but there seems to be a psychological boost in having a bike that has lost some weight.

LeFlic

[Wendy]

Since this is specifically for riding the Marmotte and your bike is already light, this maybe not the answer you want but if you have a look at this site www.kreuzotter.de/english/espeed.htm  , it is just theoretical,  but you can input different weights and slope angle and see the small effect  bike weight has on your climbing speed at specific workloads but also  how increasing the power gives better results so it may be worth considering spending the money on  specific coaching advice to improve your engine as better value.

I guess I should have spent more time on that before I spent £2k on a new super light bike, LOL!  OTOH having the pleasure of a new steed, combined with the much easier lifting and carrying has been well worth it alone.

[MSeries]

If you really are serious about reducing bike weight, get rid of your Ergos if you have them. Downtube shifters and regular brake levers should be lighter. Do you need all those sprockets at the back ?

[gonzo]

Drillium!!!

[bikenerd]

Selle Italia SLR 135g saddle and carbon seatpost should save lots of weight.
Is the fork fully carbon?  You can save 150-200g by getting a fork with a carbon steerer.
Pedals with titanium axles.

[vorsprung]

Get a old police bike with a  frame made out of gas piping, 3 speed sturmley archer and with 28" wheels and do hill repeats on it

Then your modern, sub 20 lb, lightweight bike will seem like a feather

[Deano]

Cut the bottom off your seatpost

[Zoidburg]

Put helium in the tyres.

[tatanab]

Get a old police bike with a  frame made out of gas piping, 3 speed sturmley archer and with 28" wheels and do hill repeats on it

Then your modern, sub 20 lb, lightweight bike will seem like a feather

I agree.  I don't own a bike that light, but then I don't race any more.  My fixed is about 21 pounds or so before I put the saddlebag on, and that positively flies since the machines I routinely ride weigh more like 45 pounds.

"When I were a lad", in the 60s and early 70s our local fast men always rode heavy old clunkers for commuting and general club rides.  There were tales about putting hot water bottles or bricks in their saddlebags for a bit of weight training.

MSeries comment about Ergo or STI is right.  About 10 years ago I met somebody who had spent a lot of time and money making sure his club bike (not even for racing) weighed less than 18 pounds.  He was not impressed when I told him he could save 8 ounces by fitting downtube levers etc.  Apparently my thinking is all wrong.

Jesting apart - how much weight could you save?  A few ounces, and that at tremendous cost.   Leave your mobile phone at home and you will save the same weight - but there I go with my wrong thinking again.

[Frenchie]

I saw a recent unpublished sport science report. The most important aspect was to invest on oneself, in training and weight loss. The return on wheels and frame was very, very small (in comparison).

[Zoidburg]

My flippancy aside the others are right.

You are going at it arse about tit from the "low weight at all costs angle".

[GruB]

I am being really really really good at present.  I aim to get my weight right down for the warmer ( please God ) months so I can really enjoy the TCR this year.

[mattc]

I saw a recent unpublished sport science report. The most important aspect was to invest on oneself, in training and weight loss.

Darn right. A £50 BSO from Halfords should be enough for anyone. I'm lobbying the PO for 1 of their old 3-speeds. Then you can buy some serious HRMs, turbos, liposuction ...

Dunno why anyone would spend £200 on a bike just to go a tiny bit faster ...

[Dilemma - is a PowerTap worth spending money on?!? ]

[Frenchie]

I saw a recent unpublished sport science report. The most important aspect was to invest on oneself, in training and weight loss.

Darn right. A £50 BSO from Halfords should be enough for anyone. I'm lobbying the PO for 1 of their old 3-speeds. Then you can buy some serious HRMs, turbos, liposuction ...

Dunno why anyone would spend £200 on a bike just to go a tiny bit faster ...

[Dilemma - is a PowerTap worth spending money on?!? ]

I take this as tonge-in-cheek. You may want to read a bit about it though... The comparison was being made for good race bikes, comparing them with upper market frames and (carbon) wheelsets. The (scientically rigorous) test carried out in the US of A showed that the return on big bucks spent on higher end equipment was small compared to what a good, well managed training and food program offered. Even for competent riders.

[Biggsy]

Difference between Chorus 07 Ergos and Record 07 brake levers is 138 grams a pair.  Record 2000 downtube levers are 74 grams.  The difference in cables (inner & outer) is about 150 grams for steel ones.  So that's a total difference of 214 grams (or less for kevlar cables).

It would be ridiculous to get rid of STIs or Ergos that you enjoy using purely to save weight.  Even Lance Armstrong only does it with his left-hand one.

Even this 4537.5 gram (!!) roadbike has Ergos - albeit "reworked" ones (!!): Weight Weenies - Articles

[mattc]

You may want to read a bit about it though... The comparison was being made for good race bikes, comparing them with upper market frames and (carbon) wheelsets. The (scientically rigorous) test carried out in the US of A showed that the return on big bucks spent on higher end equipment was small compared to what a good, well managed training and food program offered. Even for competent riders.

I'm sure this is true, but maybe not the whole truth. The trick is defining "good race bikes". Upgrading from £50 bike to £500 bike will give more speed than £500 to £5000, so I think this debate often gets confused.

Also what you don't mention is that buying a high end bike does not stop you doing the right training and eating. If Rider A and Rider B have the same physiology on race day, then Rider B buys a carbon chainset, he'll probably win. If you see my "best bikes" you'll see I'm no fan of throwing money around - but the fact is that the bike DOES matter if you're measuring performance accurately.

[StanThomas]

The suggestion to carry less water is sound. Check the route guide, identify the water stops and plan to arrive with empty bottles.

I saved 200g by changing to lightweight inner tubes; 50g less per tube and you're carrying four of them.

[Zoidburg]

The suggestion to carry less water is sound. Check the route guide, identify the water stops and plan to arrive with empty bottles.

I saved 200g by changing to lightweight inner tubes; 50g less per tube and you're carrying four of them.

How much water do you think is inside you then?

Because you can only sweat it out so fast...

[Biggsy]

How much water do you think is inside you then?

Do you think because you're heavier than the bike that it's not worth lightening the bike?

[Zoidburg]

How much water do you think is inside you then?

Do you think because you're heavier than the bike that it's not worth lightening the bike?

Its the logic of it

Dont carry a spare water bottle?

So you drink the water bottle dry - then just refill

So you are in fact still carrying the weight of two bottles of water around, a small amount getting sweated out or passed out by urination

Unless its very very hot and you truly are thashing yourself like a tour winner then its a weight weeny folly as far as weight goes.

A lighter bike is good yes but you get diminishing returns as you get to the more extreme ends of the spectrum.

[mattc]

A lighter body is good yes but you get diminishing returns as you get to the more extreme ends of the spectrum.

FTFY