Touching up a battered tourer

[Charlotte]

I'm building up a much-used Dave Yates frame I picked up on eBay.  It's going to be used as a tourer and I decided to buy it because it's already nicely bashed about and I won't get all precious when it needs to be left in the cargo hold of a boat or sent off down the conveyor belt towards the tender mercies of the airport baggage handlers.

However, it's got a fair bit of chipped and missing paintwork in all the areas you'd expect.  The chain-side chainstay is particularly bashed up:



Along with the rack eyes and some other random bits of the frame like this:



So what I want to do is to rub back some of the rust with a bit of wet and dry, then slap some paint or laquer on top to seal it up and make good.  It doesn't have to be pretty, but I'd like to make an attempt to colour match it.  The main thing is to get it all serviceable, though.

Where can I go to get paint?  And what should I use?  I'd like to avoid aerosols as that would be an arse to get right, so I was thinking Humbrol or something?  How should I do it?

[geoff]

 

Saw the title. Battered tourers, form an orderly queue: Dr Charlotte will be along with your Hammerite in a moment.

[Zoidburg]

I wouldnt mess about, I would just go for a shot blast and black powder coat.

[Ian H]

Those nice little tins of Humbrol. You can even mix them to get as close as poss to the right colour. Before that use Kurust or similar on the bare metal.

[woollypigs]

I know it is not the pretties addition to "my little tank" but I zip tied a bit of inner tube to the chain stay to stop that ^ happening. Because I'm not paying £49.99 for a Shark Fin that I picked up for 2pence when I build Dirty Pia.

Sand the area down, paint with Hammerite (you can get then in quite a few colours) and jobs a gooden

[border-rider]

I wouldnt mess about, I would just go for a shot blast and black powder coat.

seconded.  Either that or live with its battered state.

I don't think you'll ever colour-match 100%, and it'll look a right mess by the time you've rubbed it back enough to shift the rust and then touched it up a different shade.

[MSeries]

Paint it with grey Hammerite in a dusty garage with the door open on a windy day. Then you have a permanent striker for matches whilst camping.,

[Paul Smith SRCC]

A ‘Bow Pen’ (shown on left in pic' below) available from art or technical drawing equipment suppliers is ideal for filling in paint/emamel holes; they are also known by other names, our 'Jurek' will be able to point you in the right direction as well.



What makes them so good is that the hole is filled in,  where as painting over a chip still effectively leaves a hole, your thinking of "thinking Humbrol " is perfect for these pens as well.

The Chainstay can be covered with chainstay protector or normal electrical tape, the latter is both cheaper and can be cut to just the right size to cover the desired area:


Alternatively a single colour enamel from someone like Vaz finishes would be ideal, a plain enamel so that it will be easier to 'touch up later'; I have listed him below with a couple of others that may be useful.

Vaz Cycle Finishes: - 020 8852 0711,
Lewisham,
London SE13, for a plain enamel he is good.

Colour Tech: - 01322 555549.
OLD FARM BUILDINGS
MAIDEN LANE
DARTFORD
DA1 4LX.
Probably slightly better than Vaz at the more intricate finishes; although I have not used Vaz for a few years, he may be as good now. He will send a frame by carrier if need be.

www.daveyatescycles.co.uk -  01526 343322 (During office hours only please!)  
Ivy House Farm
Hawthorn Hill
Coningsby
Lincolnshire
LN4 4UW, very good and will send frame by carrier if need be, here is an example; My Pearson Bike, (Dave Yates built back when I was there)

Paul_Smith
www.corridori.co.uk

[Charlotte]

I don't think you'll ever colour-match 100%, and it'll look a right mess by the time you've rubbed it back enough to shift the rust and then touched it up a different shade.

The thing is, that's kind of what I want.  Riding a "good" frame is important to me but I want it to be a bit battered and not to look anything special so it doesn't attract attention from those who just like Teh Shiney.  I suppose I'm enough of a bike tart that that keeping the decals on so other cyclists who know good steel from bad can see it's a Yates is also moderately important to me.  Which is a bit sad, I know...

Humbrol it is then.  Just have to find a good model shop round these parts 

[mrcharly-YHT]

clear nail varnish?

[toekneep]

I don't think you'll ever colour-match 100%, and it'll look a right mess by the time you've rubbed it back enough to shift the rust and then touched it up a different shade.

The thing is, that's kind of what I want.  Riding a "good" frame is important to me but I want it to be a bit battered and not to look anything special so it doesn't attract attention from those who just like Teh Shiney.  I suppose I'm enough of a bike tart that that keeping the decals on so other cyclists who know good steel from bad can see it's a Yates is also moderately important to me.  Which is a bit sad, I know...

Humbrol it is then.  Just have to find a good model shop round these parts 

Nothing wrong with that at all Charlotte. 

[Charlotte]

clear nail varnish?

Not robust enough.  But on the right lines.

[clarion]

I believe Humbrol have a clear varnish in their range.

[Paul Smith SRCC]

...Humbrol it is then.  Just have to find a good model shop round these parts 

They may have a 'Bow Pen' as well

Paul_Smith
www.corridori.co.uk

[Jurek]

...Humbrol it is then.  Just have to find a good model shop round these parts 

They may have a 'Bow Pen' as well

Paul_Smith
www.corridori.co.uk

If they haven't C, let me know if you want one - I have them coming out of my ears - no handles mind, but I'm sure you can improvise one.....

[rafletcher]

One thing I'd add - after rubbing back - or at least removing all the loose oxide, I would suggest you use a "rust stopper" as a first coat (basically phosphoric acid I think). They're readily available at car accessory places. The rust a) turns black and b) becomes a rust inhibitor.

[Charlotte]

Filthy Humbrol action in the SEEKRIT BUNKER:







I rubbed the worst of the rust spots back to the bare metal with wet and dry and wire wool, then daubed a bit of enamel on with a fine brush.  Not so pretty, but it was never supposed to be pretty.

[fred the great]

Almost a perfect match wot

To keep out future dampness I would finish with clear a polyurethane finish bought from a vehicle paint Supplier.

[clarion]

You remind me.  I need to see if a model shop can supply me with some battleship grey...