Yet Another Cycling Forum
General Category => The Knowledge => Topic started by: PaulF on 26 June, 2011, 02:44:35 pm
-
On my ride this morning I noticed creaking from the crankset area - it's a Shimano Deore MTB set with big and small rings removed to make it single speed.
Discovered all the chainring bolts were loose :facepalm: when I tried to tighten them I got so far then the 'nut' on the other side just span. Do I need a special tool to tighten it?
-
No.You need some 'offcuts of chainwheel' to act as washers cos the nuts ae 'bottoming out' with nothing to tighten on besides themselves . . .
-
EDIT: This may not be relevant for Paul:
The nut can just slip with perfectly standard and correct components. I've experienced this, not every time, but ever since I had my first chainset with removable rings.
There is a special tool, a back spanner, to hold the nuts still, but I never use one.
Keep turning the bolt and the nut will eventually stop slipping as contaminants disperse. Press the back of the nut hard with your finger (and never mind the pain!).
Whenever refitting the nuts and bolts, degrease everything including the chainring and your hands - except for the bolts threads if you wish to use a small amount of grease.
-
No.You need some 'offcuts of chainwheel' to act as washers cos the nuts ae 'bottoming out' with nothing to tighten on besides themselves . . .
Not necessarily. The nut can just slip with perfectly standard and correct components. I've experienced this, not every time, but ever since I had my first chainset with removable rings.
There is a special tool, a back spanner, to hold the nuts still, but I never use one.
Keep turning the bolt and the nut will eventually stop slipping as contaminants disperse. Press the back of the nut hard with your finger (and never mind the pain!).
Whenever refitting the nuts and bolts, degrease everything including the chainring and your hands - except for the bolts threads if you wish to use a small amount of grease.
I think Torslanda meant they were double bolts on a single ring, I've had mixed results with this method even using spacers.
On the tightening front, though I do have the tool, I followed advice, yours I believe, to clean up the bolts and put a bit of grease on the thread. Worked a treat and tightened right up with no need for tool or finger pain ;D
-
A set of single-chainring bolts should sort this for a couple of quid.
-
Sorry I didn't pay attention to the "big and small rings removed". My brain's overheated.
'Owever, I wonder how Paul got the bolts tight in the first place if they are not single-chainring bolts?
-
Sorry I didn't pay attention to the "big and small rings removed". My brain's overheated.
'Owever, I wonder how Paul got the bolts tight in the first place if they are not single-chainring bolts?
Bike shop did that :)
Since they've been fine so far I assume that they are single ring bolts....
-
Dangerous to 'assume' anything has been done correctly unless you've done it yersel' . . . ;)
-
Sorry I didn't pay attention to the "big and small rings removed". My brain's overheated.
'Owever, I wonder how Paul got the bolts tight in the first place if they are not single-chainring bolts?
Bike shop did that :)
Since they've been fine so far I assume that they are single ring bolts....
hmmm, my LBS did same, only found out when I wanted to change chainring, they'd got the double bolts to work, without spacers, but it was a nightmare getting them undone.
-
I used to get spin even with the right sized bolts but my last set actually had a hex 6mm fitting on the rear part ..... eezy peezy! :thumbsup:
-
Agree with using chainring bolts that allow proper tools. Otherwise I use a chainring bolt tool. Life is too short to futz around with sore fingers and occasional creaks from lack of lubrication between components.
-
Chan you recommed a brand of chainring bolt tool for those who would like one?
The Shimano one I have grips hardly any better than my finger.
(I won't bother getting another myself. I find the spinning stops after a few quick turns of the allen key).
-
Historic VAR Bicycle Tools Catalogue 352 Chainring Stack Bolt Tool (http://www.sheldonbrown.com/var/pages/var0020.html) when all else fails. Most of the time, Universal Cycles -- IceToolz Chainring Bolt Screwdriver (http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=25172) does the job nicely. Also pretty good is
Wiggle | LifeLine Chainring Nut Tool Workshop Tools
(http://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-chainring-nut-tool)
-
I just bought a chain ring nut tool. Available for lend whenever.
-
The Shimano one I have grips hardly any better than my finger
This one?
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/shimano-tl-fc22-chainring-wrench-t40-prod20052/ (http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/shimano-tl-fc22-chainring-wrench-t40-prod20052/)
(http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/images/products/medium/20052.jpg)
That's the best one I've ever used.
The worst one I've had is this Cyclus one:
(http://www.parker-international.co.uk/ProductImages/fullsize/720059.jpg)
Bloody awful. Cyclus stuff is usually pretty good but that thing is crap.
-
The Shimano one I have grips hardly any better than my finger
This one?
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/shimano-tl-fc22-chainring-wrench-t40-prod20052/ (http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/shimano-tl-fc22-chainring-wrench-t40-prod20052/)
(http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/images/products/medium/20052.jpg)
No, this one:
(http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQiUzaK-Oxvwby-iN78IRIZAoNLHPRyBHi3w9MeyYEXxEiWeArUmQ)
-
Ah. The pressed steel ones are a bit hit and miss - some brands are adequate, some are fit for scrap.
I've tried loads of these and the Shimano one in the SJS link above is the only one I'd recommend to those so inclined. It's easy to grip the tool and the teeth (the black end is for trad chainring bolts) fit securely.
-
How does the cyclus tool work?
I've got a pressed steel jobby. Works well enough. I find the trick is to catch the free end in the spider so you can hold the head end in place with one hand and use the hex wrench with the other. Not great but seems to work, at least on my cheapo alloy cranksets. If you have bling carbon gear I expect YMMV.
-
How does the cyclus tool work?
It just has the same paired "teeth" as any pressed steel job, with that handle on top of it.
It's an odd tool - it's quite substantial and they obviously haven't set out to make a cheap too, but it's awkward to grip and to judge the alignment by feel if your eye is elsewhere on the other side of the chainring. The teeth are just not a good match for the chainring bolts I use (Campag Record track ones or various flavours of Shimano).
The Shimano teeth just fit well and there is a sort of shelf that makes it easy to be sure by feel that you are still perpendicular.
IYSWIM.
-
How does the cyclus tool work?
I've just found that Cyclus in the toolbox - yours if you want it.
-
If got right length bolts (or some decent spacers) a blunt broad blade screwdriver works just fine.
-
No, this one:
(http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQiUzaK-Oxvwby-iN78IRIZAoNLHPRyBHi3w9MeyYEXxEiWeArUmQ)
I've just used my one of these to tighten my Stronglight chainring bolts.
This tool goes on the inside and the allen key on the outside.
Tighten = sorted.
-
I have one of those Cyclus tools, and like you say - well made, but very disappointing in use. I can't work out why they incorporated that chaintool-like bar.
-
No, this one:
(http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQiUzaK-Oxvwby-iN78IRIZAoNLHPRyBHi3w9MeyYEXxEiWeArUmQ)
I've just used my one of these to tighten my Stronglight chainring bolts.
This tool goes on the inside and the allen key on the outside.
Tighten = sorted.
It doesn't engage well enough with my Campag and generic nuts. I can use it to a certain pathetic extent, but it's no use for getting the bolts fully tight. I simply can't grip the nuts tightly enough with this tool. Then I use an allen key on its own, and if the nut slips, just keep turning until it stops slipping. It always does.
-
You can also tighten them up with a big flat screwdriver and a allen key sometimes
-
This is the grand-daddy of the tools
Google Images (http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=https://secure.netsolhost.com/www.melpintoimports.com/catalog/images/varPE-35200%2520.JPG&imgrefurl=https://secure.netsolhost.com/www.melpintoimports.com/catalog/index.php%3Fmanufacturers_id%3D12%26sort%3D4a%26filter_id%3D35&usg=__Qk5knd8QyBAlL2ovkQlK2C5ynz8=&h=500&w=598&sz=43&hl=en&start=0&zoom=0&tbnid=dSvsOdcHpSjqPM:&tbnh=113&tbnw=135&ei=S3MMTq6iAsOEhQe7p_nxDQ&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dvar%2Bchainring%2Bbolt%2Btool%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26biw%3D1426%26bih%3D691%26tbm%3Disch&um=1&itbs=1&iact=hc&vpx=955&vpy=267&dur=375&hovh=113&hovw=135&tx=91&ty=57&page=1&ndsp=31&ved=1t:429,r:13,s:0&biw=1426&bih=691)
(Edit) I think this is the more recent version of the one Littlewheelsandbig posted. Note to self - read previous posts more thoroughly!
-
Correct single chainring bolts are serated to keep them in place and stop them spinning.
Google Images (http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://www.worldclasscycles.com/campy_pista_chainring_bolts400.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.worldclasscycles.com/campagnolo_pista_chainring_bolts.htm&usg=__bRfOJWszBMzK8fUqJybdyCM5NeM=&h=218&w=400&sz=20&hl=en&start=0&zoom=1&tbnid=gohNkZ_QUSAA6M:&tbnh=85&tbnw=156&ei=QnUMTuylIsHRhAfXuoXMDQ&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dcampagnolo%2Bpista%2Bchainring%2Bbolts%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26biw%3D1426%26bih%3D691%26tbm%3Disch&um=1&itbs=1&iact=hc&vpx=311&vpy=95&dur=125&hovh=166&hovw=304&tx=214&ty=99&page=1&ndsp=29&ved=1t:429,r:1,s:0&biw=1426&bih=691)
-
No, this one:
(http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQiUzaK-Oxvwby-iN78IRIZAoNLHPRyBHi3w9MeyYEXxEiWeArUmQ)
I've just used my one of these to tighten my Stronglight chainring bolts.
This tool goes on the inside and the allen key on the outside.
Tighten = sorted.
It doesn't engage well enough with my Campag and generic nuts. I can use it to a certain pathetic extent, but it's no use for getting the bolts fully tight. I simply can't grip the nuts tightly enough with this tool. Then I use an allen key on its own, and if the nut slips, just keep turning until it stops slipping. It always does.
I found this with Shimano bolts but since I changed to some Stronglight ones they have a larger groove on the reverse and it grips well.
-
This is the grand-daddy of the tools
Google Images (http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=https://secure.netsolhost.com/www.melpintoimports.com/catalog/images/varPE-35200%2520.JPG&imgrefurl=https://secure.netsolhost.com/www.melpintoimports.com/catalog/index.php%3Fmanufacturers_id%3D12%26sort%3D4a%26filter_id%3D35&usg=__Qk5knd8QyBAlL2ovkQlK2C5ynz8=&h=500&w=598&sz=43&hl=en&start=0&zoom=0&tbnid=dSvsOdcHpSjqPM:&tbnh=113&tbnw=135&ei=S3MMTq6iAsOEhQe7p_nxDQ&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dvar%2Bchainring%2Bbolt%2Btool%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26biw%3D1426%26bih%3D691%26tbm%3Disch&um=1&itbs=1&iact=hc&vpx=955&vpy=267&dur=375&hovh=113&hovw=135&tx=91&ty=57&page=1&ndsp=31&ved=1t:429,r:13,s:0&biw=1426&bih=691)
(Edit) I think this is the more recent version of the one Littlewheelsandbig posted. Note to self - read previous posts more thoroughly!
Ooo. I want one of those.
-
I was adjusting front mech yesterday and just couldn't stop it from rubbing which was when I noticed the large chainring would veer off centre by the width of the chain or thereabouts.
At first I thought the crank must be bent our something like that which was when I spotted the loose chaining bolt. Or rather bolts, 4 of them. I was lucky that no bolts had disappeared entirely.
Clearly I had not tightened sufficiently when replacing small chainring a month ago.
All tightened up now with the help of a large flat screwdriver to hold rear in place. I found it easier to get the final tightness with chainset fitted to bike.
Anyway, let this be a cautionary tale of the dangers of not properly tightening chainring bolts
-
And an advisory tale of how you can find some good information if you plough back through several hundred pages. ;D
-
I hadn't realised it was such an old thread, never looked at the date!
Strange as it appeared on the front page when I was browsing the forum using tapatalk on my android phone.
-
Also, the edge of a 5p piece fits at least one of my chainsets nicely.
-
Also, the edge of a 5p piece fits at least one of my chainsets nicely.
That sounds like a good tip!
-
It's my experience that if the area of contact in which the bolts sit have any oil or grease on them the bolt will not grip.
So I always degrease the area thoroughly.
-
It's my experience that if the area of contact in which the bolts sit have any oil or grease on them the bolt will not grip.
So I always degrease the area thoroughly.
yes indeed.
Clean on the outside, greased threads (and with used bolts make sure that the two halves will run into one another all the way without binding) and you won't need anything more than a single 5mm allen key to tighten or loosen your chainrings. If you get a new chainset, give those bolts 'the treatment' when the chainset is new.
The only times I ever need any extra tools is when I'm working on other people's bikes.
cheers
-
Stronglight stack bolts usually just work. Some others spin uselessly. The Park tool to hold the backnut is useless too.