Dan's Coast and Castles (part 1)

[perpetual dan]

I had the opportunity of four days away on the bike, and after a bit of hunting around the southern part of the Coast and Castles route (NCN route 1) looked like it would be fun, picturesque, not overly hard to get to and from, and well matched for my fitness (cough). Rather than take the more inland last leg of route 1 I opted to take the more coastal route 76 leading north from Berwick on Tweed. Thank you again Deano, mcshroom and Graeme for inspirational reports and Mrs Dan for encouraging me to go. In a week I assembled a new map, a fresh pair of not-knobbly tyres, a collection of railway tickets and, at the last minute, a place to stay each night (thus avoiding the need to carry camping stuff). I took the mountain bike as there were reports of fields to cross and my other bike won’t fit tyres larger than 25c, which felt like pushing my luck on farm tracks in October. However the luggage was standard tourer stuff: panniers, rack pack, bar bag but no rucksack or frame bag.

So, my little adventure started on Thursday evening…

After getting Miss Dan the Younger to bed, and saying goodbye to the others I rode to the station. The train ride was passed with short stories. At St Pancras, after a little faffing with lights and which exit, I joined the traffic to my Travelodge (booked to enable an early start the next day). The receptionist was very helpful, and the bike secured in their left luggage store. I’m glad I used that as my room was down a series of narrow twisty corridors and required a flight of stairs to get there.

Friday 23rd October
As is often the case when going to bed excited about the next day in a room with air conditioning that can’t be made quiet I woke early. So, just after 6am (early for me at least) I got up and showered. Except that the taps provided water that was hot or hotter. So, having got wet but not soapy I got dressed and went down to reception to get a pint of cold water for tooth brushing and have a moan – but without time to faff about moving stuff and actually getting a shower.

Earlier than planned I loaded up the bike and rode back up to Kings Cross in the morning traffic. Half and hour later, having got water for my bottles, I got on the train. Inevitably the bike was in the last carriage and I was in the front, but as the train terminated at Newcastle that wasn’t a problem.

Just before midday the train pulled into Newcastle. I loaded the bike, removed jumper, swapped shoes but kept on my jeans for a a short and gentle ride (and because the train toilet floor didn’t inspire taking shoes off). I then went the wrong way out of the station, and did a couple of laps of the castle in my attempts to get down to the river side, on the correct side.


Tyne Bridges

The ride along the Tyne was well signposted and surfaced, even the small detour, but eerily quiet for a city ride. I suppose that early afternoon on a Friday in term time most people  that might have been there weren’t. The effect was of a lonely back route through Byker, Wallsend (where Hadrian’s name featured) and Tynemouth.

Just before crossing the Tyne tunnel approach the air changed, cooler, fresher, more sea-like, and soon the end of the river and my first “1” sign were seen. The benches looking over the water on the next stretch all had ‘in memory’ flowers, which did little to brighten the mood – rather it was the people that became engaging.


Tynemouth

At the next castle a car pulled up and the man driving offered to take my photo. I declined, as I’m not sure I’d improve the view, but he enquired about my journey – which he’d also done, and wished me well.


Tynemouth Priory and Castle

A little further on, pausing to check my map when I felt I’d missed a turn, a cyclist came and offered help and asked after my route. As he left I realised that he’d turned out of his way to help.


Harbour at Tynemouth

Another person came up to talk, he was following the same route with a friend, by alternating driving and cycling days.


Beach North of Tynemouth

Despite a deliberately non-sweaty pace (wearing my “evening” jeans) I found myself in Whitley Bay at the turn for my hotel, the York House Hotel, at 2:30pm. I checked in, bike safely stowed in the back of the hotel, my room was very nice – complete with corduroy chaise longue. After a quick shower I headed out on foot. Whitely Bay had the feel of an out of season place by the sea, and having lived in Brighton for many years I didn’t come on this trip for the seaside town experience. In any case, my plan was to head back into Newcastle on the metro (Whitley Bay was chosen as the furthest on the route I could go and still be on the metro). This quickly retraced my journey. The bike and luggage hinder exploring a city (especially one with one-way systems, hills and pedestrianised streets), but on foot with only a camera things were easier. I spent a couple of hours taking in the new bridge, Baltic Mill gallery, and exploring city centre streets.


Gateshead Millennium Bridge from Baltic Mill

Day 1 ride: 25km and 400m of ascent in 2 hours 21 minutes.

[Ruthie]

Oh, lovely Dan.  I've ridden this route and you've brought it all back.

Must have more!

[perpetual dan]

Saturday 24th October

After a good breakfast, getting away a little before 9am put me in front on a running event through the seafront at Whitley Bay, which was handy. A little further on the route ran through grassy dunes, following the shapes of the bumps and exchanging nods and waves with those out for a Saturday morning ride. There was a cycling themed sculpture, so I posed my bike with it.


My Bike With Sculpture and Dunes, After Whitley Bay

The route continued to hug the coast, behind houses and beside beaches.


Behind Houses, Whitley Bay


Looking North From Whitley Bay

A light rain started as I passed the first power station of the day, but steady enough for waterproofs. For much of the morning coal mining and power dominated the scene. I enjoyed the contrast with the wilder quieter places.


Bridge Near Blyth

Leaving Blyth I was riding alongside a “Fast Freight” coal train, more or less keeping up with it. I then turned away from the line for a couple of miles, before meeting the train again at a level crossing just before Blyth power station. There was then a bit of cycle path separated from the road riding, including under the lines from the power station near Lynemouth.


Power, Near Lynemouth

Turning the page on the map, then ride swapped from modern castles, to the wild solitude of the coastline through Drurudge Bay.














Druridge Bay

Amble brought pre-teen boys calling out “go on my son” and a chip butty by the harbour. The route to Alnmouth moved inland, to a separated cycle path through fields.


Approaching Alnmouth

A sharp climb out, my only push of the tour, and back into the countryside. The hedgerows had flocks of Goldfinches and there was a field of long-beaked birds, possibly Curlews.

At Boulmer there was a choice: between “rough and steep” and slightly longer and on the road. I took the road option, after asking someone about how rough and steep it really was. The bad news was that there was a strong headwind coming from the East. The good news was that this took me past a shop in Longhoughton, where my empty water bottle was filled and chocolate eaten.

I didn’t take pictures of as many castles as I’d expected on this ride – other sights captured my imagination more – but I did pause for Dunstanburgh across the fields, in light that was casting longer shadows.


Dunstanburgh Castle

Starting to feel tired the route turned inland, back into the headwind, and up the only long climb of the day. Once at the top, there was a sign indicating a commute-distance to Seahouses. So, with a rolling downhill and tail wind to aid me, I pressed on for the last stretch into Seahouses to get to my B&B without needing lights. I reached the front in time, taking a couple of pictures while there was still light.


Bamburgh from Seahouses in the Evening

I stayed at St Aidens B&B. The owners had only taken the place on this year, and have made a really nice place to stay. They had a store where my bike went, and I had a room looking over over to the Farne Islands, with binoculars provided. They also run a bistro, and having ridden nearly 100km I opted for a shower and not going out looking for somewhere to eat. The food, and a beer, was very good!

That night wasn’t great: by the end of supper I was feeling hot, and going to my room early I felt as if I had a temperature. I dozed, and woke around midnight feeling suddenly better, which was a relief.

Day 2 ride: 98km and 800m of ascent in 8 hours 23 minutes.

[mcshroom]

Great stuff. Keep it coming please

[perpetual dan]

Sunday 25th October

Despite a bad start, I woke early and feeling well – certainly able to continue, with an easier day than the one before planned. Indeed, I was up well before breakfast started, so took a walk along the cliff head, to make  some morning light pictures and see some of the wildlife (there were quite a few people about doing much the same thing, although typically with longer lenses on their cameras).


Formation Flying
 

Farne Islands from Seahouses


Seahouses Harbour

After a good breakfast, I took the coast road to avoid a hill start, heading towards Bamburgh castle. Although a B road, it was quite straight and early on a Sunday in October wasn’t unpleasant to ride.


Bamburgh Castle

Again there was a running race getting ready to set off, and I rode a couple of miles wondering if I’d be caught. At Bamburgh I rejoined route 1 and headed inland, on lanes and steadily up. There was this interesting tower at the high point and in places we passed through woodland, which was a change to an otherwise open-skies ride.


Tower

After a while the lanes led down to the coast and Lindisfarne. Approaching the causeway I paused to chat to a group of cyclists who were heading south with a van to take them back, who warned of hills on route 76.

Arriving at the causeway to Lindisfarne the tide was, as expected, keeping the likes of me out and moving quickly up the road.


Lindisfarne Causeway


Lindisfarne Marshes

I crossed an old firing range, only seeing a warning not to pick things up as I left and enjoyed the sea views and solitude through the nature reserves.


Northumberland Coast

This was to be another day of two distinct halves: the morning with a lanes start, but soon dominated by coastal nature reserves riding on grass and rough tracks; the second part moving to roads, lanes and towns. Throughout the day the ride and the railway ran close together, and there was a steady series of bridges, level crossings and trains passing. Along the cliff top approaching Berwick on Tweed the train could be seen several minutes away, crossing the bridge over the Tweed before passing beside the path.


Berwick on Tweed in the Distance

In Berwick, deviating from the route, I walked across the lowest of the three bridges, giving a good view of the other two, then zig-zagged uphill through the town to rejoin the route and turn the map over to the Scottish section. I don’t find a full meal agrees with me when I’m riding (hourly snacks work much better) and didn’t want to break the peace of the ride with busy shops, so didn’t stop in the town.


Berwick on Tweed Bridges

Crossing the A1 involved waiting a while for gaps in very fast traffic, but was soon put behind me with a lane that headed up in a long line. A small wiggle with some height lost, through some roadworks, and then turning up the hill proper and over the border into Scotland. This was the one large climb of the day, and a lowish gear and steady spin took me steadily up onto Lamberton Moor. Chilly at the top, I stopped for pictures and a snack.


Lamberton Moor

The height was, naturally, lost quickly on the sometimes rough descent to Eyemouth. The pace only broken by the need to swap batteries in my GPS. In the town I stopped to top up my snack supply with some local delicacies: potato cakes and tablet.


Eyemouth Harbour

Another climb out of the town, then lanes to Coldingham, where I soon found Glenlea B&B, where I was made to feel very welcome. Supper was in the pub a few doors down the road, then back for a little reading before bed.

Day 3 ride: 76km with 700m ascent in 7 hours 4 minutes.

[perpetual dan]

Monday 26th October

My landlady in Coldingham was quite concerned that I didn't want a full cooked breakfast, and insisted on sending me off with sandwiches, crisps, tunnocks tea cakes and juice - which was very kind of her, especially as the breakfast was still a generous plate-full.

Saturday was the only day I had rain, but today I had sunshine - chilly air, but welcome. A long (9km) but steady (150m gained) climb on a lovely quiet lane started the day. The wind farm at the summit gradually getting closer, but visible for much of the way - apart from a short section of pine scented woodland.


Huxton

After a brief pause at what felt like the top (photo above) the route joined a quiet A-road, which was false-flat rather to the real top, with open moorland and then the wind farm finally arrived.


Penmanshiel Wind Farm


Penmanshiel Wind Farm

The road then headed down for 5km of easy, fast, smile inducing rolling with an opening view of the coast and Torness power station.


Torness Point

I missed the turn off the main road while being overtaken, but caught it before the climb back become too painful. I spotted a bike following, so took it easy. Then the road dived steeply down with twists, so I took it even easier. This finished at, more or less, sea level with a choice of ford or bridge - I took the bridge and the tandem following me took the ford. On the other side we paused to say hello and enquire after each-others' routes. They came from Chichester (so near me) and had spent a bit over a week riding up from London. They set off before me, but we met again soon after and rode together chatting for a while. After short stretch of connecting lanes and routes we joined a cycle path beside the A1, and on a fairly level road they soon pulled away.

I rode past the nuclear power station, referring the scenery back to Saturday's ride; and then onto another coastal nature-reserve style leg near Barnes Ness - although with added cement works.


Barnes Ness

The route then went through Dunbar, John Muir's birthplace, before joining a bit of a stretch of road and shared-use path beside the road riding. These were busier roads (though quite ridable) with high hedge blocking any view, so was probably the least interesting part of the ride. Almost at the end of this I had my only properly scary moment of the ride, when a sharp left turn with a wall obscuring the view of the road I was joining turned me into a narrow road with an immediate single-lane under a bridge and a car occupying the middle of the road. We both stopped with room to spare, but I'm glad I didn't have others following close behind.


From Dunbar

The payback came on turning inland, on a very small road along the side of a valley. With autumn colours in the trees and a view over the valley this was a joy to ride - and I had the road to myself for at least 4km and it remained quiet and lanesy for another 4km. I paused by Hailes Castle to enjoy half of my enormous sandwich in the quiet and the sun.


Hailes Castle

There was a little town riding through Haddington, where schools seemed to be finishing although it felt early for this, and then onto an old railway track, with dirt and autumn leaves under wheel and a Buzzard in the sky. This, naturally, had a very gentle gradient up and then down, making for an enjoyable run down to where the line would have joined the line which still exists at Longniddry - which is about 50m after the turn off.


Haddington - Longniddry Track

Then there was another coastal stretch with an off-road path, a pair of harbours at Cockenize, and directions offered rather than asked for by one old man - helpful all the same.


Cockenzie

Another road stretch through Prestonpans, and then onto a long curving track through the last of the wild places with a view across the water towards Leith, with clouds and the sun being dramatic for me. This day didn't feel like it had so much obviously photogenic scenery and more road riding, but it did have some lovely vistas that will be remembered even if they don't photograph well (by me).


Across The Water From Prestonpans

Into Musselburgh the roads got busy and seemed to wind through housing estates more than was was possible without recrossing my tracks. It is hard to avoid the outskirts of a city when aiming for the centre, but they don't make for the most scenic riding. Sticking to cycle paths in an unfamiliar place probably exacerbates the winding, but does mean not navigating while in a flow of traffic - and of course these routes will primarily serve the everyday cyclist, not the tourist, so run through housing estates. In any case, the route eventually ran through open areas, round the foot of Arthur's Seat, uphill through the Innocent Railway Tunnel (an impressive experience), then into more central roads, a park and up a stiff climb to The Mound. Down then up again to Princes Street, where the traffic was moving so slowly I got off and walked to get to Princes Street Gardens for a couple of final photos to show I got there.


Scott Monument, Edinburgh


My Bike in Princes Street Gardens, Edinburgh

The I pushed down to Waverley station. I'd have liked to have explored a bit more, but the left luggage was expensive (though staffed by a friendly cyclo-tourist) and my bike lock better suited to quiet stops in the country than a city station. So, I locked up for a couple of hours during rush hour and went for a shower; wrote post-cards to catch the 6:30 post (and so arrive home before me), a few touristy gifts and some food. Then I reclaimed my bike and wrote up the day's ride in the waiting room.

At 11pm it was time to board the sleeper back to London. I've been on European sleepers as an adult, but the last time I took one to or from Scotland the family car was on board too and I was young enough to imagine that the route went via Bahrain (where my Dad had worked for some months). The buffet car seas were busy by the time I got there, so I got some food and headed back to my (single occupant) berth. Then, I changed into my pyjamas and drank a couple of glasses of wine, watching the nighttime scenery glide by the window and remembering a great four days of riding and scenery.

Day 4 ride: 89km with 1100m of ascent in 7 hours 29 minutes.

Tuesday 27th October

The train arrived ahead of time, I loaded up and rode to St. Pancras. After some hanging about, on seats not really designed for extended use, for a bike friendly train I headed home with a couple of editions of The Bike Show for company. A quick ride from the station and I was back with the family in time for lunch.

There were no injuries. I could tell I'd had more exercise than usual, but nothing annoying. The frozen shoulder I'd been suffering from when I left hadn't been aggravated by my riding position and if anything was better than before. On unpacking I found only a few unused items: toolkit and spares, pump, first aid kit, emergency toilet roll, warm hat, neoprene overshoes, one short sleeve cycling top, one ordinary t-shirt and a mini tripod. On closer inspection one spoke on the rear wheel had gone, but I suspect this happened on the bike rack at Edinburgh. Otherwise the bike, although undoubtably heavier than a road tourer, was comfortable and felt like the right choice.

All in all, a great little tour. Just easy enough that it was enjoyable, just long enough that I was taking it easy and enjoying it but also felt like I'd gone somewhere. Just far enough from home to be different, but close enough that travel wasn't stressful. Some marvellous variety between industry, towns, open seascapes and quiet lanes. Each day had brought wonderful moments of solitude to enjoy being in beautiful places. Each place I stayed worked out well and I'd recommend all of them (Travelodge showers notwithstanding). I'm now curious about the section of route 1 that I didn't take from Berwick, and how it carries on north from Edinburgh.

[Canardly]

Enjoyed the write up thanks.

[JohnR]

Really enjoyed this write-up, looks like a great ride. I'm sure the other route Will niggle you to explore it another time.

John

[Graeme]

Dan - that was a brilliant write up. I liked the photos of powerlines at Lynemouth. After Lindesfarne, where you followed the coastal path to Berwick: that looked easier than my route with #1 daughter (don't tell her!). I've done Berwick to Edinburgh via the Lammermuir hills, but I really liked the detail in your route around the coast. I think I'm going to have to take the train back up to Alnmouth and try the route to Edinburgh again.

Cheers.
G.

[jiberjaber]

Great write up Dan, just stumbled across this, I did the similar route a few days after you (setting off on 24th from Middlesbrough) but went inland to Innerleithen where there was some epic Scottish scenery to be had   Nice to see the North coast section, might re-ride to do that one day