Author Topic: Carry on up the Fjords!  (Read 2380 times)

Carry on up the Fjords!
« on: 05 November, 2017, 09:05:25 am »
No, not a euphemism.  Thinking of taking Mrs Y on one of those cruises that starts in southern Norway (Bergen) and goes all the way up past the arctic circle. Not as cycling trip (not this time anyway) and will be going next June to coincide with our 25th wedding anniversary. Has anyone done this, and if so, any advice, tips, must see places and must do things?

Thanks.
I am often asked, what does YOAV stand for? It stands for Yoav On A Velo

Re: Carry on up the Fjords!
« Reply #1 on: 05 November, 2017, 09:06:34 am »
Nothing to add, but also very interested in any suggestions.

Re: Carry on up the Fjords!
« Reply #2 on: 05 November, 2017, 09:11:48 am »
I think it was Billplumtree otp who did something very similar a couple of years back.
It is well documented on here....... er ...  somwhere.

Aunt Maud

  • Le Flâneur.
Re: Carry on up the Fjords!
« Reply #3 on: 05 November, 2017, 09:41:23 am »
Lofoten is quite nice for a stay and Tromsø has the most northerly botanical garden.

LittleWheelsandBig

  • Whimsy Rider
Re: Carry on up the Fjords!
« Reply #4 on: 05 November, 2017, 11:35:15 am »
Wheel meet again, don't know where, don't know when...

David Martin

  • Thats Dr Oi You thankyouverymuch
Re: Carry on up the Fjords!
« Reply #5 on: 05 November, 2017, 05:55:59 pm »
Can't add much. I did it from Trondheim to Tromsø in 1976 before they had proper cruise ships. Enjoyed it, but I was 7 at the time.
"By creating we think. By living we learn" - Patrick Geddes

ElyDave

  • Royal and Ancient Polar Bear Society member 263583
Re: Carry on up the Fjords!
« Reply #6 on: 05 November, 2017, 07:10:21 pm »
I'm going to Hammerfest in two weeks, will let you know! I'm looking forward to the HQ of the world polar bear society
“Procrastination is the thief of time, collar him.” –Charles Dickens

Re: Carry on up the Fjords!
« Reply #7 on: 05 November, 2017, 08:21:31 pm »
It seems Norway is a popular choice as a 25th Wedding Anniversary destination.

My wife and I celebrated ours this year with a 2 week cruise departing Southampton and visiting Norway, Iceland and Ireland. We visited 2 ports in Norway, Flam and Geiranger which are both north of Bergen so they may be on your itinerary.

https://www.visitflam.com/en/flamsbana/

It is a very scenic route with dramatic waterfalls and well worth a trip on. It was very busy with tourists when we were there (19th July) and is one of the most popular things to do.

Our 2nd port of call was Geiranger. Again it was very busy. We had a half day excursion here where we were taken by coach up towards the Dalsnibba mountain plateau high above Geiranger. We swapped the coach for mountain bikes and were guided down the road we had just come up - a 1000m descent in just over 17km (the easiest 17km I've ever cycled). The views on the way down were stunning.

We pushed the boat out  ::-) (sorry for the pun) and went for a balcony cabin. It worked very well as our cruise ship arrived at both ports around about 8 each morning. This meant we could lie in bed and enjoy the dramatic views on the way up the fjord without having to rush to get up so that we could see the view.

After Geiranger we crossed the Arctic Ocean to Iceland so can't comment on any other Norway destinations but I'd certainly like to go back one day and head further north as you plan to.

Norway is a very expensive place to buy souvenirs and food. If you want to save money on food have a good breakfast on-board before reaching shore. I wouldn't be surprised if people raided the breakfast buffet as well for things to take to eat later.

It was the first time we'd been on a cruise and we played safe by booking all our excursions through the cruise company which is recognised as the most expensive way of doing things. You can book most of these things direct and save money or wait until you arrive in port but I didn't want the risk of finding things sold out or worrying that the ship would leave without us if we were late back for any reason - they wait for the cruise organised excursions but not privately organised ones.



Aunt Maud

  • Le Flâneur.
Re: Carry on up the Fjords!
« Reply #8 on: 05 November, 2017, 09:07:47 pm »
When we lived in Bergen, we thought it was very funny that you could buy half a cucumber in the supermarket. Whole cucumbers being reserved for weddings, birthdays and other special occasions.

Re: Carry on up the Fjords!
« Reply #9 on: 05 November, 2017, 09:09:19 pm »
It looks like the OP is referring to the Hurtigruten. Nominally a ferry service going from port to port but really a cruise in modern passenger ships.

I was working in Norway at the time and we did it going south from Kirkenes to Bergen. Very relaxed, not high powered cruisng, lots of chances to get off the boat for an hour or so. Towns in Norway are small so it is pleasant to wander around them.  Always something to see from the ship as you are never far from shore.

Flight from Oslo to Kirkenes and on the return we took the train over the mountains from Bergen back to Oslo, a great train journey.

Breakfasts are buffet style and very good, we skipped lunch and had Dinner on board.  Excursions expensive, like everything in Norway.

I'd say it would be excellent for a wedding anniversary trip, I think that was the excuse for ours.

Re: Carry on up the Fjords!
« Reply #10 on: 06 November, 2017, 06:36:50 am »
I did this a couple years ago on the Kong Harald, but due to a breakdown was transferred to MS Lofoten


The Lofoten is a bit smaller than the one I had booked on (the smaller of these two)



This meant a little more basic, and “interesting” in a storm crossing to Lofoten, but the standards on board are fine, with lots of brass and teak making a traditional environment

The trip itself is stunning and I spent hours with a book and cameras truly relaxing and letting the mountains, fjords and scenery pass by. Sunsets and sunrises are breathtaking and when I went in
 February at a reasonable civilized hour, their is a running commentary of the sights you pass and some local history, if you wish they will call you at night if the Northern
Lights make a appearance

Now for the negatives

Food ichoice is fairly fixed with local sourcing, so if you want alternatives then speak to the staff

Alcohol is expensive on board, so we would buy ashore and then use the Hurtigruten thermal mugs to take our “tea” on deck.

Excursions are expensive, but unfortunately the limited time in a port often makes them the only practical way of seeing an area......Nordkapp is an example

The other downside of the Ferry aspect is if you have a cabin near the loading doors, it can be noisy at night

Finally .... the Northern Lights. These are stunning at sea and if you are lucky and get a backdrop such as Trollfjord even better, however forget photos if the weather is anything apart from a mil pond, long exposures are not compatible with a small ship like Lofoten


All in all, if you accept that it is a ferry, accept the limited time ashore and the costs, then it is a really fantastic trip, and well worth doing


.....and talk to the locals who they are traveling between towns as they can give tips as to bars, local sights etc

You do get to go ashore when the ship lands, but you are on a ferry, not a cruise ship, so time is limited 30 minutes in some cases so for instance we did not have time to visit the monument to the Witches at Vardo

I would also liked to have more time in Trondheim

I got to see the bike lift, but only by missing out on part of the Nidaros tour

Also some visits are in the dead of night. If you do the round trip this sorts itself as one way is a night visit the other wayis a day one

Re: Carry on up the Fjords!
« Reply #11 on: 06 November, 2017, 02:39:11 pm »
Yes, I was thinking of Hurtigruten. Thanks for all the advice. I found a travel company that would book the cruise, as well as the train from Oslo, the excursions and the flight back. Probably more expensive than doing it all myself but worth it for the convenience.
I am often asked, what does YOAV stand for? It stands for Yoav On A Velo

Re: Carry on up the Fjords!
« Reply #12 on: 06 November, 2017, 03:09:42 pm »
Will you be aboard for Midsummer? That is a big festival up those parts. Much merriment & alcohol! In June, as you go further north, there will be no nights! That takes some getting used to!
Haggerty F, Haggerty R, Tomkins, Noble, Carrick, Robson, Crapper, Dewhurst, Macintyre, Treadmore, Davitt.

David Martin

  • Thats Dr Oi You thankyouverymuch
Re: Carry on up the Fjords!
« Reply #13 on: 06 November, 2017, 06:16:37 pm »
St Hans Dag, when everyone and their uncle are out on the water in their boat.
"By creating we think. By living we learn" - Patrick Geddes

Re: Carry on up the Fjords!
« Reply #14 on: 06 November, 2017, 08:45:54 pm »
Will you be aboard for Midsummer? That is a big festival up those parts. Much merriment & alcohol! In June, as you go further north, there will be no nights! That takes some getting used to!

I was in Svalbard during January - almost polar night (a couple of hours of "twilight" at mid day)... that also takes some getting used to

This was mid-day on one of the glaciers