Headset assembly

[quixoticgeek]

In the box with my vagabond frame came a headset. It seems that in transit the box has got shaken up enough that it's got 8 separate parts loose in the bag. I've got them in what I think is the right order as they go on the tube (fork crown up, from left to right):



Is this the right order?

Any recommendations for a headset press?

J

[Torslanda]

Headset press can be a g-clamp and a block of wood or a block of wood and a soft face hammer, as long as you are patient and ensure they go in square. Not really recommended if the cups are alloy and possibly cheaper to have a bike shop install it for you if your hackspace doesn't have a press. I notice the crown race isn't split so it will need to be pressed on too.

Bottom row L-to-R
Crown race, lower cup, bearing (needs inverting), crown race seal.
Top row L-to-R
Upper bearing (needs inverting), top cup, upper bearing wedge, top cap.

Cups may be interchangeable if identical, hard to tell from the pic. Bearings appear identical. The bottom cup is the one that accepts the bearing, crown race and seal flush. Trial assembly off the bike recommended.

Plenty of grease when you fit them to keep the weather out.

[The French Tandem]

Any recommendations for a headset press?

My headset press is very similar to this, except that I use two square wood blocks instead of the big round plastic washers:

[mcshroom]

I've got one like this, though mine has square padded plates rather than round ones.

If you used that sort of press then definitely fit one cup at a time though and be careful about alignment as they go in.

[Brucey]

isn't the name 'top cap' reserved for the thing that goes above the stem?  Maybe I'd call that part 'upper race cover' or something?

Other than that quibble I agree with Torslander.

cheers

[Torslanda]

TorslandA

Other than that quibble I agree with Brucie

[Torslanda]

WOT!

[Brucey]

TorslandA

Other than that quibble I agree with Brucie

 

[quixoticgeek]

Thanks all.

Have got what I think is a trial fit of everything in the right order. It certainly seems the right order and agrees with the posts above.

Given this won't be the last bike assembled at the hackerspace, I'm tempted to spend the €47 on a headset press so that it can be done properly and to minimise the chances of someone else destroying a frame.

I take it anti seize on the cups where they go into the frame, then as much grease as I can fit on the bearings?

When it comes to replace these bearings, is there an easy way to identify now what the part number is? I'm guessing this is the cleanest and best condition they'll ever be in so it makes sense to measure etc... now.

Thanks

J

[Brucey]

the bearings may well have a part number marked on them.

cheers

[quixoticgeek]

Had to find a torch to light it up so I could read it, but there is a code on the side of the bearing. It reads: PT-R408 (41X6.5X45°)

Googling suggests a couple of places that sell these bearings.

Makes me wonder what the expected life of these bearings are on an all weather bike that's stored inside, but used daily...

J

[Torslanda]

With regular maintenance and reasonable surfaces they should last as long as the groupset.

[zigzag]

Makes me wonder what the expected life of these bearings are on an all weather bike that's stored inside, but used daily...

J

mine started creaking during hard out of saddle accelerations, after almost 40,000km. took it apart, bearings felt alright although not exactly as smooth as new. swapped upper and lower bearings around, out of curiosity. the creaking is gone, so i'll just leave it as it is.

[Brucey]

Makes me wonder what the expected life of these bearings are on an all weather bike that's stored inside, but used daily...

IME headset bearings rarely die of natural causes; they are most often murdered.  The two most common methods of assassination are

1) poor adjustment (too much preload)

and

2) water ingress.

Both are depressingly commonplace with A-head designs; it is very easy to overtighten the top cap (ooh I tightened that "loose bolt"....) and regarding water ingress, it is as if the bloke that designed the A-head system thought it never rained. 

  With most A-head designs water can get in very easily around the spacers/handlebars/stem (the stem often has a tide-mark inside.... ) and the water will then dribble downwards and wreak its own merry hell by corroding the steerer and rotting the bearings etc.

  I've quite often seen A-heads with top bearings that have failed through corrosion, whereas this is almost unheard of with threaded headsets that have an overhanging top race.  Regular maintenance and lots of grease is pretty much the only means of staving this off in a bicycle with an A-head that is used daily, but if the water that gets in is even slightly contaminated with road salt, it will quickly break down a typical grease and still allow corrosion.

cheers

[quixoticgeek]

When fitting the crown race, do I need add grease or antisieze before banging it into place?

J

[zigzag]

a smear of grease and a cut in one place - easy to install, easy to remove and helps to drain the water (if the bike is left outside in heavy rain)

[Brucey]

isn't the name 'top cap' reserved for the thing that goes above the stem?  Maybe I'd call that part 'upper race cover' or something?

Other than that quibble I agree with Torslander.

cheers

TorslandA

Other than that quibble I agree with Brucie

I should have said "to er is human..."

I'll get me coat...

cheers