Lights for Unlit country Lane and Winter Use

[Biggsy]

Lumicycle Road Lights: still use toggle switches, that you can operate delightfully with a gloved hand.  I think their new twin light systems are beyond your budget, but you could have one of their single light systems as your "high beam", with your dynamo light (or a better dynamo light) as the "low beam".

I'm a fan of their old twin halogen light sets - now considered terribly old technology, but still create plentiful pleasing photons.  None on eBay at the moment.

[vorsprung]

I've actually got a Lumotec IQ2 Luxos at the moment and it's okay but on unlit country roads it's a bit lacking and the cut off is too close.

How can the cut-off be too close? Surely that is adjustable by changing the angle of the light?

(Can’t help but am trying to decide which dynamo lamp to buy.)

Sure I can angle the light to project further up the road but it the laws of diminishing returns apply. The more it projects up the road the less bright it gets. Don't get me wrong the Lumotec IQ2 Luxos is a very very good dynamo headlight and I like all it's functions, but in the pitch black of Shropshire lanes I'd just like something that's brighter and shines a bit further up the road.

Mount the headlight to the bicycle securely using the pre-mounted stain
less steel bracket or another suitable bracket. Adjust its height so onco-
ming traffic is not glared. The brightest section of the light field should be
in ten metres distance.

That's what the instruction leaflet says.  That's what I've done.

I have been using an IQ Cyo Premium T and was struggling on pitch black country lanes, didn`t seem to be able to achieve balance of distance light and close light; partly solved by adding a Fluxient 1000lumen light angled down for mid distance.

The Luxos has a much different beam pattern to a Cyo


Of course I also think that a Cyo alone is more than good enough for night riding, on lanes, no moon, fast as you like

[Andrew Br]

I think the Exposure Strada that Aidan has mentioned up-thread is probably the closest to what you want albeit it's going beyond your budget.

My current set-up is a trusty IQ Speed and a cheapo Chinese "spot" light. The IQ gives me near field light and the "spot" lights up the distance. When I'm in town I usually turn the "spot" off and I manually "dip" it when there's traffic (including other bikes and pedestrians) in the lanes. "Dipping" means tilting the light down on the bars so that it lights up the road in front of me.

This might be worth looking at although it (and my own lights) don't fit all your needs since they have battery packs:-

http://www.magicshineuk.co.uk/bike-lights/front-bike-lights/magicshine-mj-880r-2000-lumens-xml2-leds-2015-wireless-remote-model.html

I don't know if the remote switch will turn the light off or put it into low power mode.

FWIW, I have a Philips dyno light on another bike. It does the same job as the IQ Speed and it's also backed up by another Magic-shine-a-like.

[jamesld8]

You can get Solarstorm X2 lights http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?375535-SOLARSTORM-X2-5000-Lumens-cycle-light-e-bay-purchase-review  very similar for less that £20 on ebay though ; only downside is battery packs can be dubious but solve this by buying a more reputable pack eg as sold by TorchyBoy also on ebay

[Cpt Sisko]

Hi All,

Thanks for all your replies and suggestions so far. I'm really like the look of the Exposure Lights, just stumping up the courage to blow £250+ on a light, but I guess that's the price for a quality British made (and that's also important to me) light that'll give several years of good service.

I accept is a MTB oriented light and not perfect for the road, but given the fact that my B&M dynamo light will on all the time and if I buy the remote control to easily switch it off, then the combo seems to tick all the boxes.

I'll still ask the question of light manufacturers though. Why can't you design a road oriented light with properly designed lense and a simply toggle switch that switches between low & high beam (and I mean a proper low & high beam like you get in a car/motorcycle and not just a reduced power setting).*

* Maybe I see a business opportunity here. A quick bit of market research please. How many of you would buy something like that?

[Kim]

I'll still ask the question of light manufacturers though. Why can't you design a road oriented light with properly designed lense and a simply toggle switch that switches between low & high beam (and I mean a proper low & high beam like you get in a car/motorcycle and not just a reduced power setting).

Haven't B&M pretty much done this with the Luxos?  (Automatically changing between near and far beam according to speed.)

The effect is less dramatic than you seem to want, because  a) it's limited to dynamo power  and  b) it has to comply with the German lighting regs, which greatly restrict the amount of light emitted above the horizintal

But assuming the availability of battery power for a more powerful 'main' beam and a general disinterest in complying with lighting standards, I agree that this would be desirable - particularly for riding routes that combine on and off-road sections.

[andrew_s]

The Luxos has a much different beam pattern to a Cyo

Not so different if you compare the Luxos with the new Cyo Premium

[oldstrath]

I'd  certainly  buy one.
 No, the Luxos doesn't  do what  is needed.
As for 'lighting  standards ' - if it can be acceptable on a car, why not on a bike?

[Aunt Maud]

You'll only find out what's best for you by trying stuff out yourself.

[vorsprung]

I'd  certainly  buy one.
 No, the Luxos doesn't  do what  is needed.
As for 'lighting  standards ' - if it can be acceptable on a car, why not on a bike?

Strikes me "what is needed" is some kind of lighting system that is exactly the same as a car
I don't really see the point in this but the discussion from the OP has repeatedly made this comparison
So get a front rack and mount a car battery and a pair of halogen lights on it.  If you get all the bits from a scrapyard should work out much less than the 200 quid budget

[LittleWheelsandBig]

As age increases, eyesight generally worsens, particularly night vision.

Pitch-black lanes are where I can use poor lighting as there is nothing around to spoil my night vision.

[Ian H]

Pitch-black lanes are where I can use poor lighting as there is nothing around to spoil my night vision.

I replaced aging LED lights with Edeluxes (same optics as B&M).  They are much brighter, but I could see adequately with the old ones.  The big advantages are in the speed which oncoming cars react and dip, and in competition with other cycle lights – I'm no longer riding in my own shadow when there's someone behind me with a powerful light.

[Fab Foodie]

Hi All,

Thanks for all your replies and suggestions so far. I'm really like the look of the Exposure Lights, just stumping up the courage to blow £250+ on a light, but I guess that's the price for a quality British made (and that's also important to me) light that'll give several years of good service.

There's a guy called Tom Strottman on the London Brompton Club forum who used an Exposure Toro Mk7
1800 Lumens on our overnighter from Oxford to London and that gets pitch in places.  You'll not be disappointed ... on full beam it not so much drys the tarmac it nearly melts the road.  Very impressive.

[andrew_s]

The big advantages are in the speed which oncoming cars react and dip, and in competition with other cycle lights

And also on wet roads

[Ningishzidda]

Hi All,

Thanks for all your replies and suggestions so far. I'm really like the look of the Exposure Lights, just stumping up the courage to blow £250+ on a light, but I guess that's the price for a quality British made (and that's also important to me) light that'll give several years of good service.

There's a guy called Tom Strottman on the London Brompton Club forum who used an Exposure Toro Mk7
1800 Lumens on our overnighter from Oxford to London and that gets pitch in places.  You'll not be disappointed ... on full beam it not so much drys the tarmac it nearly melts the road.  Very impressive.

I have an 1800 lumen jobbie off eBay for £20.
8.4V battery pack and lasts for 2 1/2 hours.
Half bright is bright enough.

[mattc]

As age increases, eyesight generally worsens, particularly night vision.

Pitch-black lanes are where I can use poor lighting as there is nothing around to spoil my night vision.

... apart from the bloke riding behind you with a Exposure Toro Mk7 1800 Lumens.

[Biggsy]

I'll still ask the question of light manufacturers though. Why can't you design a road oriented light with properly designed lense and a simply toggle switch that switches between low & high beam (and I mean a proper low & high beam like you get in a car/motorcycle and not just a reduced power setting).*

* Maybe I see a business opportunity here. A quick bit of market research please. How many of you would buy something like that?

Quite a few of us, I expect.  Meanwhile you can achieve the next best thing from twin lights, with one low-power light pointing well down and a high-power one pointing further ahead.  Tops of beams can be crudely blocked with tape, if you like.

[Cudzoziemiec]

Exposure Strada: their 'road' model, as opposed to the mtb ones. I got mine from the factory seconds shop, which knocks at least £100 off the RRP. It's very well made, very bright and surprisingly light – much lighter than a Hope V1 I've also got. The battery life is decent rather than good. They claim 8 hours on low, 4 hours on high; I get about 6 on low, 3 on high. This might be because it was NOS and had been sitting around on a shelf for a couple of years. I got a piggyback cell to plug in – it sits on the light and provides another couple of hours. Mine predates the programming function, so can't comment on that. The high and low beam are not really like a car – they're more like 'extremely bright' and 'bright'. I rarely use the high beam. I haven't fitted the remote switch either.

Edit: Forgot to say that what I most like about the Strada is the width of the beam and lack of extreme hotspot.

[sojournermike]

Just been emailed about this

https://buy.garmin.com/en-GB/GB/prod506138.html?utm_source=garmin_emea&utm_medium=email&utm_content=&utm_campaign=EMEA%2C+VariaLaunch_7445%2C+uk

[andyoxon]

This thread may be useful...
"Decent front light"    https://yacf.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=85373.0

My ebay light set-up...  now used with diffuser lens, and DIY anti-glare hood.

1800lm CREE-XML-T6-LED for less than £8, and this £16 power pack (~100g) Anker 5600mAh

...which has level indicators, and lives in a waterproof tribag on frame, with short or long USB lead options.  As others have said, the power pack is rechargeable with standard wall plug & USB lead.  I think I could get 1.5hrs(-2) on full power (1800Lm), or a lot longer on the lower power setting.

I also have a standard non-USB LiION pack for the same type of light.

If I'm on my steel bike, the light connects to the power pack in the saddle bag.  Using reputable Anker power packs - removes some of the doubt with generic LiION packs from China...  Quality from ebay XMLT6 can be variable, but haven't had any issues, until recent USB plug issue (solvable) on new purchase - but they're relatively inexpensive.

[Ningishzidda]

Fitted the old Tesco 3W Cree torch for this morning's ride to work. Unlit lanes between Brum and Coventry.
Twas OK.

[Cudzoziemiec]

I'd  certainly  buy one.
 No, the Luxos doesn't  do what  is needed.
As for 'lighting  standards ' - if it can be acceptable on a car, why not on a bike?

Strikes me "what is needed" is some kind of lighting system that is exactly the same as a car
I don't really see the point in this but the discussion from the OP has repeatedly made this comparison
So get a front rack and mount a car battery and a pair of halogen lights on it.  If you get all the bits from a scrapyard should work out much less than the 200 quid budget

Save the weight of the battery by powering it off a B&M 12V bottle dynamo, if there are any still available.

[andrew_s]

I'll still ask the question of light manufacturers though. Why can't you design a road oriented light with properly designed lense and a simply toggle switch that switches between low & high beam (and I mean a proper low & high beam like you get in a car/motorcycle and not just a reduced power setting).*

* Maybe I see a business opportunity here. A quick bit of market research please. How many of you would buy something like that?

It's not simple to design a lens/reflector that's small, and does a good job of both high beam and dip. Philips did try, and failed, in that the result wasn't very good at either.
What would be do-able is a combination light that has separate low beam and high beam emitters, and maybe separate reflectors too.
You may like to look at the Specialized Flux Expert. My curiosity hasn't extended as far as paying £200 to try one out.

[T42]

As age increases, eyesight generally worsens, particularly night vision.

Pitch-black lanes are where I can use poor lighting as there is nothing around to spoil my night vision.

... apart from the bloke riding behind you with a Exposure Toro Mk7 1800 Lumens.

How about the bloke behind using a 40-lux IQ/Fly?  My diagonale partner in 2012 had two 20-euro BBB efforts and bellyached all the time that when he rode in front all he could see was his own shadow.  He got quite shirty about it.

[mrcharly-YHT]

As age increases, eyesight generally worsens, particularly night vision.

Pitch-black lanes are where I can use poor lighting as there is nothing around to spoil my night vision.

... apart from the bloke riding behind you with a Exposure Toro Mk7 1800 Lumens.

How about the bloke behind using a 40-lux IQ/Fly?  My diagonale partner in 2012 had two 20-euro BBB efforts and bellyached all the time that when he rode in front all he could see was his own shadow.  He got quite shirty about it.

Um, I don't really blame him (but he should have had better lights). I've been in a similar situation but I was running a torch with a 100lumen output. Couldn't see the road immediately in front of me.  Ended up having to ride at the back all the time.