Lights for Unlit country Lane and Winter Use

[T42]

His bad planning wasn't my fault.

[zigzag]

i was surprised that 60lumen smart set at half intensity (ie 30lumen) puts a rider in the front riding with luxos-u in the shadow, except the "boost" mode

[LittleWheelsandBig]

T42, if your companion was happy with his lighting when riding alone, your having too bright a light while riding behind him is not his fault. All that happens with your approach is that an arms race is created with everybody bumping up their lighting so that they aren't riding in a shadow created by somebody on their wheel with brighter lighting. The real answer is to dial back your lighting when riding on somebody's wheel.

[mattc]

As age increases, eyesight generally worsens, particularly night vision.

Pitch-black lanes are where I can use poor lighting as there is nothing around to spoil my night vision.

... apart from the bloke riding behind you with a Exposure Toro Mk7 1800 Lumens.

How about the bloke behind using a 40-lux IQ/Fly?  My diagonale partner in 2012 had two 20-euro BBB efforts and bellyached all the time that when he rode in front all he could see was his own shadow.  He got quite shirty about it.

There are too many permutations to list who is in the wrong/right in every situation, and I am not intimate with the two models you describe, so I shan't attempt to comment.

But. There are things an experienced rider can do to make the most of these situations:
- the best possible approach is riding 2-abreast. You then both benefit from each-other's lights, and won't suffer too much even if the brightest light in the whole group is right behind you.
- if forced into line-astern, sit back a little (which is only sensible for night-riding compared to daylight), and further to 1 side than you might for the perfect draft. This puts the shadow into a much less problematic position.
AND DONT WEAVE ABOUT!!!

<see also LWAB's post about arms races>

[T42]

T42, if your companion was happy with his lighting when riding alone, your having too bright a light while riding behind him is not his fault. All that happens with your approach is that an arms race is created with everybody bumping up their lighting so that they aren't riding in a shadow created by somebody on their wheel with brighter lighting. The real answer is dial back lighting when riding on somebody's wheel.

Fair enough.  At that point, though, even my dialled-back option (Cateye HL-EL530) would have been too much.

[Cudzoziemiec]

I wonder if the shadow problem is dependent on beam alignment as much as strength. If a light is set so the bright spot is a good way down the road, the shadow of the rider in front will also be cast a long way, whereas if it is set much nearer, there will be less shadow because the beam is going down from a position that's in line with or below the bulk of the rider's body (unless the following rider's main light is on their head, of course).

[T42]

Umpteen considerations.  Dropping back à la Mattc is probably the best solution, but it makes for lousy communication.

In the case in point I ended up riding slightly to the side so that he could see by my light. Worked until we were in heavy traffic.

[Biggsy]

I wonder if the shadow problem is dependent on beam alignment as much as strength. If a light is set so the bright spot is a good way down the road, the shadow of the rider in front will also be cast a long way, whereas if it is set much nearer, there will be less shadow because the beam is going down from a position that's in line with or below the bulk of the rider's body (unless the following rider's main light is on their head, of course).

No it won't.  But a light mounted lower down will make longer shadows.

[mattc]

Slight digression:
I decided that followers'  lights are throwing too much light up into the air when I find myself riding into my own
Brocken Spectre.
(an amusing effect to start with,  but wearing as time goes on  ... )

[contango]

Hi All,

I am looking for a new FRONT light for use on unlit country roads. My winter bike already has a B&M dynamo light on it and while that's okay, it's a bit teutonically efficient and lacking in range for unlit roads. What I'm looking for is something that'll dry the tarmac in front of me, but and this is the big but, when cars come towards me I don't want to blind them with an unfocussed beam.

I have a couple of other stipulations,
a) Bar mounted
b) Weather Proof
c) If I'm going to have manually dip the whole unit so not blind cars OR to change from High to Low, I must be capable of doing it wearing gloves.
d) I can live with a relatively short burn time (1 1/2hrs) and would prefer a self contained unit, but if it means I get what I want I don't mind a separate battery pack
e) I also don't mind spending up to £200 or maybe a smidgen more.

I know there are a dozen or so hi-quality MTB lights that fulfil some of those requirements, but an awful lot of them have an unfocussed beam that seem to light up everything. Fine for off road use, but not efficient for road use.

Has anyone any experience in using these type of MTB floodlight on the road or suggestions for an equivalent but road oriented version.

Lastly, an open question to bike light manufacturers: Why can't I buy a bike light that has a high/low beam option like a car?

I used a pair of Hope Vision One lights and was very pleased with them. They were bright enough that I felt comfortable at decent speeds in the dark, and if they're aimed downwards a little they don't seem to cause issues for oncoming traffic. I used them during a day ride where it rained just about all day, although mostly not very hard. I used them on another ride where it rained on and off for most of the day, often raining hard. They're easy to move from one bike to another (which obviously also means they're easy to take with you, and easy to steal from people who don't) and have three power settings (four if you count flashing). Low power lasts 20-odd hours while high power lasts more like 3 hours. Two lights on low power is enough for most stuff, although for fast descents I'd tend to nudge them up a level.

IIRC you can get a Vision One for somewhere around 100 squids.

[Kim]

- if forced into line-astern, sit back a little (which is only sensible for night-riding compared to daylight), and further to 1 side than you might for the perfect draft. This puts the shadow into a much less problematic position.
AND DONT WEAVE ABOUT!!!

Very much this.  I find it helps with pothole-avoidance too (people riding in their own shadows being poor at spotting surface hazards generally).


Ob arms race:  I rode through the Netherton Tunnel earlier, by the light of a £25 dual-Cree eBay special off-road light, combined with my trusty Petzl.  Since I was off-roading in a hazardous place, on a mountain bike, in the dark, I consider this entirely appropriate.  It lit up the tunnel admirably well, and in spite of wider bars than the bike I've ridden through there previously, at no point did I wobble into the wall.  The guy coming the other way by the light of a tiddly little torch with a light output that would be embarrassed by the screen of the average smartphone thought my light was quite good too, even if he did have to stop and wait for me to pass from some distance away.

[Ian H]

I wonder if the shadow problem is dependent on beam alignment as much as strength. If a light is set so the bright spot is a good way down the road, the shadow of the rider in front will also be cast a long way, whereas if it is set much nearer, there will be less shadow because the beam is going down from a position that's in line with or below the bulk of the rider's body (unless the following rider's main light is on their head, of course).

I have often wondered at the logic of the riders who align their front light to provide a bright pool of light two metres in front of them.  Are they very short-sighted?

[Kim]

I have often wondered at the logic of the riders who align their front light to provide a bright pool of light two metres in front of them.  Are they very short-sighted?

Nahh, that's just what happens when you try not to be anti-social with a conical beam.

[Samuel D]

Couldn't see the road immediately in front of me.  Ended up having to ride at the back all the time.

There are worse outcomes.

[Ningishzidda]

The AUK online 'Hints and tips' page on lighting isn't complete ATM.

I'm sure the handbook suggested a lamp on one's crash hat.

[mrcharly-YHT]

I'm sure the handbook suggested a lamp on one's crash hat.

Sounds AUK-up-to-date.  They probably mean one of these:

[Cpt Sisko]

Hi All,

Once again thanks for all your replies. I've gone for an Exposure Toro Mk6!

Okay I know not road oriented but boy does it light up the road ahead. I'm just waiting for the remote switch to arrive then I'll have pretty much got what I wanted, ability to see more that well enough in the unlit lanes and the ability to dim it for oncoming traffic, (though is suspect even on dim it'll still be rather too bright), but as it's bar mounted it will push down easily enough.

[P Walsh]

Aim the central beam to about 30 metres up the road, no more, and it should be fine. You may not need "full blast" at all.

[Rhys W]

I bought a Toro about 18 months ago (Mk 5?), because some of my commute is unlit roads. It was between that and the road-specific, dipping Strada, but I went for the slightly better firepower of the Toro. Superb light. Full power on the unlit sections, lowest setting when I reach civilisation.

I still have the Joystick I bought about 6 years ago, and no sign of the battery losing capacity. When it does, I hear that Exposure are excellent for service/repair/replace.

[fuzzy]

Bit late to this party but, for future reference, the Cateye Volt series are none too shabby with lumen ranges from a few to quite a few. They are all USB rechargeable and some come with a dismountable battery so you can carry a spare.

I have a Volt 300 helmet mounted which replaced my ailing Exposure Joystick. I bought it near the start of the year, using it on flash mode and, though I haven't been using it continuously since purchase, it has had a lot of use. Still on the original battery charge.

[Somnolent]

The AUK online 'Hints and tips' page on lighting isn't complete ATM.

I'm sure the handbook suggested a lamp on one's crash hat.

You could always suggest some updated wording... there's more than one person with the keys to that particular dungeon.

[De Sisti]

I've got an Exposure E3, and even though it's bright, I don't like the way the beam veers to the left
(no matter how much I angle the headlight).

[sojournermike]

Just back from a run down the 'Greenway' to Ripley to set up my Philips Saferide 60. Once I was happy with the angle, one slight adjustment from the static at home, it was perfectly fine for rolling along at a pleasant and easy speed. Not sure about full one descending, but for commute or night riding I am happy.

Have a Seculite mounted on the rear guard that also seems fine.

Mike

[contango]

I wonder if the shadow problem is dependent on beam alignment as much as strength. If a light is set so the bright spot is a good way down the road, the shadow of the rider in front will also be cast a long way, whereas if it is set much nearer, there will be less shadow because the beam is going down from a position that's in line with or below the bulk of the rider's body (unless the following rider's main light is on their head, of course).

I have often wondered at the logic of the riders who align their front light to provide a bright pool of light two metres in front of them.  Are they very short-sighted?

I guess it depends on their speed and riding style. When I mount two Hope lights to my handlebars I usually point one down and one further up, giving me light right in front of the wheel (good for spotting potholes) and also light further along the road. Naturally I look to avoid casting too much light too high, to avoid blinding oncoming road/trail users.