Garmin Edge 800 repair

[ElyDave]

Having had a problem with the Garmin charging on the move from the USB Werk, I plugged it in today to transfer data, or at least that was the plan.  Garmin cable seemed stiff to plug in, then I noticed the connector was bent.

Having straigtened it, the connection is now intermittent, it'll charge but not transfer data, or at least wn't hold a connection long enough to do so.

Question therefore - is it likely to be just the cable damaged, or also the connection on the 800?  I can check that with a new cable of course, but if it is the 800 as well, has anyone got any experience of repairing one, or is it a case of it's dead?

[Kim]

The fundamental flaw with mini-USB B is that the delicate springy bits are in the socket, rather than the plug.  This was changed with micro, so that it tends to be a cheap cable that has to be replaced rather than an expensive device.  Annoyingly Garmin seem to be quite slow to pick up on this...

[Feanor]

The USB connector on the Edge 800 in on a daughter-board which is sealed on to the lower case assembly.
The daughter-board is hard to source, but the entire lower case assembly can be got from e-bay / amazon.

https://yacf.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=99493.msg2080977#msg2080977

If the USB connector on the Edge 800 is broken, and you are not happy with repairing such things, then I may be able to help, PM me.

[ElyDave]

The USB connector on the Edge 800 in on a daughter-board which is sealed on to the lower case assembly.
The daughter-board is hard to source, but the entire lower case assembly can be got from e-bay / amazon.

https://yacf.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=99493.msg2080977#msg2080977

If the USB connector on the Edge 800 is broken, and you are not happy with repairing such things, then I may be able to help, PM me.

Thanks, where are you =? I know Scotland but I can't remember if you were Aberdeen or not?

Is it soldered connections or a plug? 

Best thing is probably to open mine up and have a look.

[Feanor]

No soldering required.

Unscrew the 6 screws holding the case together ( Torx T5 ),
Separate the case, lift the top section away.

No need to remove the screen from the main PCB, as I recall.
I think there may have been 2 screws down at the bottom of the PCB holding it in.
Remove these, and then simply prise the main PCB up out of the lower case assembly with a spudger.
It will un-plug from the daughter board.

The replacement rear case assembly I got was complete, including the daughter board, and the battery, and the sounder.  So no soldering required.
Re-assembly is just a matter of pressing the main PCB back down onto the new rear case until the connector clicks in, and then re-assembling the top half of the case onto it.

Take care not to get your greasy mitts on the screen.

(Yes, I'm in Aberdeen.)

[ElyDave]

Cheers, I've seen a couple on fleabay so I'll get one of those and if I have trouble, I might be in touch. I'm up there regular enough.

[ElyDave]

Might need a bit of assistance here.

It's all dismantled OK, but I can't get the mother board to line up properly on re-assembly.  Is it just a case of jiggling it about?  It's not engaging into the push-fit on the daughter board

[Feanor]

Just check that the daughter board looks to be the same as you original, and there's no obvious board revision issues.
Can you plug it back onto your original case?

But yes, careful wiggling and perhaps a bit of firm thumb pressure is all it takes.
You will be able to feel it snap into place.
Use the main board screw holes to get an idea of alignment.
Line these holes up with the plastic pillars on the rear case and give it a shove.

Only put the screws in once it's snapped into place.

[ElyDave]

Just check that the daughter board looks to be the same as you original, and there's no obvious board revision issues.
Can you plug it back onto your original case?

But yes, careful wiggling and perhaps a bit of firm thumb pressure is all it takes.
You will be able to feel it snap into place.
Use the main board screw holes to get an idea of alignment.
Line these holes up with the plastic pillars on the rear case and give it a shove.

Only put the screws in once it's snapped into place.

Bingo, it's out by about 1mm and that's enough.  I'll have to return this one.

I've reassembled the old one, but it seems to have lost all the data that I thought was on the SD card, including maps