Author Topic: Removing stubborn pedals (Read 22709 times)

Cudzoziemiec · « **on:** 19 February, 2012, 04:36:40 pm »

I've been trying to remove my old pedals (with toeclips) in order to fit a pair of SPD pedals and it's proving nigh on impossible. Right-hand pedal, no problem. Left, huge problem. First I tried with a decent (Park) pedal spanner. No joy, just rounded off the corners of the pedal axle a little. So I tried soaking it in WD40 for a while, having sprayed it from both sides of the crank, and then using mole grips. All I've done is increase the rounding off and started to wear down the teeth on my mole grips.

All I can think of now is to try drilling out the pedal axle from the inner side of the crank, but I don't really know how to do this (even if I can get hold of a suitable drill!). Any other ideas?

Kim · « **Reply #1 on:** 19 February, 2012, 04:38:25 pm »

Blowtorch.

TimO · « **Reply #2 on:** 19 February, 2012, 04:43:51 pm »

OK, silly question, but you are turning it the correct way?

You say you soaked it in WD40, but for how long?

I doubt you'd succeed in drilling it out, it'll be very hard. You may be able to do it with a bench drill, but I'd guess the chances of doing it with a hand drill are very low.

Biggsy · « **Reply #3 on:** 19 February, 2012, 04:50:09 pm »

1. Don't forget that it's a left-hand thread: pedal undoes ckockwise.

2. Stop using mole grips or anything like that.

3. Get a spanner that fits properly, buying a new one if necessary, and extend the handle with a long tube if you can.

Save the blowtorch as a last resort.

Cudzoziemiec · « **Reply #4 on:** 19 February, 2012, 04:58:16 pm »

Yes, I do remember that it's a left-hand thread!

I have a decent pedal spanner, as mentioned. I guess some kind of extension is probably the way to go, but I can't think of anything that would do the job right now. I left an hour between spraying the WD40 and trying the mole grips, and had previously sprayed WD40 on it yesterday as well.

The pedals have been on there since new - that's 13 years - and I suspect they might not have been carefully fitted in the shop.

Blowtorch... hmm... That does sound drastic.

Domestique · « **Reply #5 on:** 19 February, 2012, 04:58:31 pm »

Quote from: Kim on 19 February, 2012, 04:38:25 pm

Blowtorch.

It would work, we have always used a hot air gun instead though. Heat untill you see some oil seep from the thread.
The ally will expand quickest and there off

slohill · « **Reply #6 on:** 19 February, 2012, 04:59:16 pm »

Many years ago I owned a old Matchless motorcycle in which the chainlength screw adjusters had rusted solid in the frame. I soaked the threads as much as I could with thin penetrating oil, but after 3 days effort gave up as the screws remained stubbornly stuck. A couple of weeks later I just happened to try again and to my amazement, the screws spun out easily. So, if you are not in a hurry, a long soak, revisiting stuck parts 2X day with eg WD40. may work. And of course you do know that LH pedals have LH thread and RH pedals have RH thread. [The converse of English BBs if that is your other job. (It BBs are RH thread on both sides just to confuse the issue!)]. Best of luck!

Feanor · « **Reply #7 on:** 19 February, 2012, 05:04:29 pm »

Once it gets to applying very large torques on pedals, it becomes difficult to get the crank to stay put.

You need to position the crank in such a way it won't spin, in some positions you will end up free-wheeling the cassette.

So to remove the LH pedal ( clockwise ), I try to arrange the crank somewhere between 7-o'clock and 10'o'clock.
Use a full-size 15mm spanner ( as fat as you can fit in there. ), not an adjustable or anything like mole grips, as mentioned.
Have the spanner pointing towards the rear of the bike.
You will be constrained by the position of the flats on the pedal axle.
The spanner will have an angled end, this will give you some geometry options.
Now, you can stand on it with care, and the crank won't turn.
A bit of bouncing with care can be applied too.

Cudzoziemiec · « **Reply #8 on:** 19 February, 2012, 05:05:07 pm »

Hot air gun - when I was pottering with pottery, we had a hot air gun for drying slip and stuff. That, I think, might have done the job, but I'm not sure where I'd get one now! I can't see a hair dryer quite being up to the job!

slohill · « **Reply #9 on:** 19 February, 2012, 05:07:53 pm »

Or if you have a suitable big vice or other holding method, it may be best to take the crank and pedal off the bike first and the get to work on the pedal.

phantasmagoriana · « **Reply #10 on:** 19 February, 2012, 05:13:12 pm »

When I had the same problem, I ended up taking the cranks (with pedals attached) to an LBS, having tried Plusgas and a pedal spanner at various points over a period of weeks. They got them off in seconds...

Hummers · « **Reply #11 on:** 19 February, 2012, 05:21:08 pm »

Quote from: Kim on 19 February, 2012, 04:38:25 pm

Blowtorch.

Yep.

H

Cudzoziemiec · « **Reply #12 on:** 19 February, 2012, 05:29:13 pm »

Quote from: Feanor on 19 February, 2012, 05:04:29 pm

Once it gets to applying very large torques on pedals, it becomes difficult to get the crank to stay put.

You need to position the crank in such a way it won't spin, in some positions you will end up free-wheeling the cassette.

So to remove the LH pedal ( clockwise ), I try to arrange the crank somewhere between 7-o'clock and 10'o'clock.
Use a full-size 15mm spanner ( as fat as you can fit in there. ), not an adjustable or anything like mole grips, as mentioned.
Have the spanner pointing towards the rear of the bike.
You will be constrained by the position of the flats on the pedal axle.
The spanner will have an angled end, this will give you some geometry options.
Now, you can stand on it with care, and the crank won't turn.
A bit of bouncing with care can be applied too.

So stand on the spanner, if I understand correctly? That's about the opposite of what I've been doing - using my foot to hold the pedal steady. Trouble is, I think the axle's now so rounded off that the spanner will just slip.

slohill · « **Reply #13 on:** 19 February, 2012, 05:32:53 pm »

Quite often there is an alan key socket inside the pedal axle which can be accessed from the inside of the crank. Any help?

Biggsy · « **Reply #14 on:** 19 February, 2012, 05:44:48 pm »

Quote from: Cudzoziemiec on 19 February, 2012, 04:58:16 pm

I have a decent pedal spanner, as mentioned.

I meant buy another spanner if your decent spanner isn't in decent condition any more and has rounded off.

Feanor · « **Reply #15 on:** 19 February, 2012, 05:49:29 pm »

Quote from: Cudzoziemiec on 19 February, 2012, 05:29:13 pm

Quote from: Feanor on 19 February, 2012, 05:04:29 pm
Now, you can stand on it with care, and the crank won't turn.
A bit of bouncing with care can be applied too.
So stand on the spanner, if I understand correctly? That's about the opposite of what I've been doing - using my foot to hold the pedal steady. Trouble is, I think the axle's now so rounded off that the spanner will just slip.

Yes, that's absolutely what I mean.
If you set up the geometry of what you're trying to do as I described, the crank won't move, and you can stand on the spanner.
I'll see if I can manage a photo...

Here's how to set it up:

And here's me horsing on it:

Notice how the geometry is such than my foot is pushing directly towards the bottom bracket, so I'm producing almost no turning moment on the crank, but lots on the pedal axle. I'm aiming to have the end of the spanner almost directly above the BB, but slightly forward, so the residual moment on the crank is trying to turn the crank forward, which I hold against the brakes. Avoid having the end of the spanner to the rear of the BB, because the residual torque is in the free-wheel direction, and can result in a shin-whacking incident.

This is really easy to do, and you can generate a large amount of well-controlled torque.

Not much use if you've already rounded it, tho.

Oh, and regarding the Allen key hole in the back of some pedal axles: You'll bend an Allen key long before you shift a stubborn pedal.

Cudzoziemiec · « **Reply #16 on:** 19 February, 2012, 05:52:27 pm »

Quote from: slohill on 19 February, 2012, 05:32:53 pm

Quite often there is an alan key socket inside the pedal axle which can be accessed from the inside of the crank. Any help?

If only.

Quote from: Biggsy on 19 February, 2012, 05:44:48 pm

Quote from: Cudzoziemiec on 19 February, 2012, 04:58:16 pm
I have a decent pedal spanner, as mentioned.

I meant buy another spanner if your decent spanner isn't in decent condition any more and has rounded off.

The spanner's ok, it's the axle itself that has rounded off.

I think I'll have one last go with the WD 40 and standing on the pedal method tomorrow or in a couple of days and if that fails I'll think about where I can get hold of a hot air gun or blowtorch. And if that fails I'll have to take the crank off and take it in to LBS who will doubtless charge me more than I saved by not buying from them in the first place - bloody internet shopping!!!

Tim Hall · « **Reply #17 on:** 19 February, 2012, 05:54:46 pm »

Ditch the WD40 and use Plus Gas.

tatanab · « **Reply #18 on:** 19 February, 2012, 05:58:15 pm »

Having done all your soaking in Plus Gas - remove crank - strip pedal - grip pedal axle in vice - apply large lever (short length of scaffold pole?) or a girt big hammer to shock it loose.

Cudzoziemiec · « **Reply #19 on:** 19 February, 2012, 06:06:32 pm »

I've had an idea - there is a bike recycling project down the road where every Thursday evening you can go and use their workshop for the princely sum of £4. I don't know if they have a blowtorch but I'm sure they have a vice - I don't even have anywhere to fix one. So crank off and down there on Thurs. Now, the crank did come off easily last time I tried and that was only last August, so I'm hopeful on this one.

Thanks for all the advice.

padbeat · « **Reply #20 on:** 20 February, 2012, 02:53:45 pm »

Less than a blowtorch, more than a hair dryer - can I suggest a paint stripper gun? Worth a go.

Cudzoziemiec · « **Reply #21 on:** 20 February, 2012, 03:11:59 pm »

No paint stripper gun, but I have access to a blowtorch booked for Thursday.

Feanor, thanks for the photos - I'll remember them for the next time.

Feline · « **Reply #22 on:** 20 February, 2012, 03:57:09 pm »

Is there any reason why you can't just sacrifice the crank and stick a new one on?
Alternatively could you substitute the pedal spanner in Feanor's pic with a large set of mole grips done up bastard-tight on the pedal axle?

Panoramix · « **Reply #23 on:** 20 February, 2012, 04:01:40 pm »

Quote from: Cudzoziemiec on 19 February, 2012, 05:05:07 pm

Hot air gun - when I was pottering with pottery, we had a hot air gun for drying slip and stuff. That, I think, might have done the job, but I'm not sure where I'd get one now! I can't see a hair dryer quite being up to the job!

I have got one at home if you want you can come round and have a go as it is a bit less drastic than the blow torch. It's technically not mine so i can't really lend it.

Ian gaggiaport · « **Reply #24 on:** 20 February, 2012, 04:34:15 pm »

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kitchencraft-Colourworks-coloured-blowtorch/dp/B003N84XG8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1329755593&sr=8-3

make sure the colour matches your frame