Try tieing the levers back to the bars, leave it for a couple of hours, tapping the hoses from time to time. Do this with the bike the right way up.
If there's some air in the system and you're storing your bike without the reservoirs being the highest point, that air is going to end up in the hose or caliper.
if you tie the levers back to the bars the compensation port will be closed and any air in the pressure circuit will remain in that circuit. Bubbles may rise to the top of the circuit but they won't do so any faster than normal and they won't be able to escape into the reservoir. NB
transporting a bike with badly bled brakes is likely to go better if the levers are tied back, but there you are closing the compensation port to stop air in the reservoir (which shouldn't be there in the first place) from migrating into the pressure circuit.
IME it is much more effective to remove the disc (and/or pads) from the caliper, use the brake lever pump the pistons out (carefully, not too far) , and then (with the bike tilted if necessary eg in a workstand so the hose run (including the transfer ports in the caliper) is upwards all the way and the reservoir is uppermost) push the pistons back. Repeat if necessary.
The above will temporarily restore function to a brake that had air in the reservoir (i.e. it was never bled properly in the first place) and where that air migrated into the main part of the circuit , but still has intact seals and sufficient fluid (for the current state of pad wear) to at least fill the pressure circuit. Because you need no tools you can do this by the roadside if necessary, eg if the bike has been in a car or laid on its side and the brakes have gone bad.
If you use the same procedure but with a funnel attached to MC reservoir, and top it up with fluid as you go, you can add more fluid/remove air from the system. No need to break open the hydraulic circuit lower down, and/or use syringes etc, which can work fine, but also gives more opportunities to add air as well as remove it.....
If your brakes 'need bleeding after a week' , go bad after the bike has been hung up or turned upside down, or whatever, unless the fluid has escaped somehow (leaked out) it only ever means one thing; they were never bled properly in the first place.
cheers