False Summit
The route was being punctuated by more hills now – the climb after Whorlton Bridge comes to mind - but we knew that they were nothing compared to Yad Moss to come. So with that at the back of my mind, the pretty countryside and villages weren’t receiving the attention they deserved. Nonetheless, the magnificent Bowes Museum shouted out at us when we passed. Barnard Castle came and went and Middleton-in-Teesdale marked the last point of civilization for a while. The climb turned out to be very long, but given our hill-fitness – there are some benefits from living in South Wales – well within our capabilities. We sailed past the same Belgian who had gone wrong earlier in the day and he took pleasure in giving us an English lesson, explaining that the word painted on the road spelled ‘SLOW’. We patently did not understand our own language. My computer has an altitude reading and after a while Ian was asking me to report every 10 metres of ascent so as to judge how far it was to the top as there was not an obvious summit in view. The altitude reading is subject to barometric pressure vicissitudes, and I wasn’t sure I’d reset the start height from the 117m of home to whatever Lee Valley stood at. The result was that when we passed the 598m’summit’, we still had what turned out to be another 150m of climbing. Ho hum.
The control at Alston was friendly, of course, but brisk and businesslike. There was a touching moment outside when an American was trying, with the controller’s help, to get the number of a cafe in Middleton-in-TEesdale where he believed he’d left his expensive camera. He obviously thought it was a lost cause. But a fellow rider turned up, and after eavesdropping for a moment returned the apparatus to its grateful owner.
We were in-and-out quite quickly, fed and watered, and on our way for the evening ride into Scotland. I didn’t quite know what to expect here. My mind tends to simplify routes into straight lines and right angles, so this was going to be due west to Brampton, then due north to Langholme and west(ish) to Eskdalemuir. Looking at the map now, I see that’s not quite right, with the route being pretty much WNW to Longtown before swinging North. I also pictured the route to Brampton as being gently down from the town of Alston – England’s highest market town – to close to sea-level and the Solway estuary. So the climb onto moorland out of Alston was a bit of an unwelcome surprise. On the other hand, the road was very quiet, if not always very smooth, and it became a joy to sweep round the bends straight into the low sun, with the silica twinkling from the tarmac. Bliss.
Ever on. Legs were fine, saddle area comfy, spirits high, bikes behaving. If we’d had a schedule we’d have been up with it. Through Hallbankgate (signs boasting not only a beer festival but also a scarecrow festival), negotiating Brampton and stopping on the far side to report home that all was well. Then what seemed to be a dash northwards (but was still WNW) along the straight road to Longtown, gobbling up the miles with what was probably still a strong tailwind. Right along that stretch we hit clouds of midges. We weren’t in danger of being bitten, but you had to be careful not to be breathing in if you hit one of the ‘clouds’ at the wrong time otherwise you’d be gobbling up more than miles.
For some reason I thought Longtown was right on the border, but it was several miles further on along the A7 that we passed the Welcome to Scotland sign and Ian gulped down his first ever lungful of, strangely, midge-less Scottish air. The A7 was quiet but not very inspiring and I was beginning to feel tired and a bit fed up. I guess it wasn’t unconnected with the darkness descending. Things seemed to improve as we turned off at Langholm and started the long climb towards Eskdalemuir. The route sheet warned ‘CARE: POTHOLES CATTLE GRIDS ANIMALS’ so on the brief flat and downhill bits we took it easy, peering carefully at the beams of light cast onto the road. As it turned out we saw no potholes, no cattle grids and no animals, but it didn’t stop us being unnecessarily vigilant. I got into a plodding rhythm enjoying the smell of the pines and trying to make out the surrounding hills in the darkness without much joy. I was also looking out for my computer to click onto 629km which would mark unknown territory for me in terms of distance. On the lower slopes a small group of Americans pulled alongside for a chat. Then further along, Chris went steaming past on his fixed wheel, with Paul and Toby not far behind. They had had a performance-enhancing Chinese takeaway at Longtown. Still up-and-up with the road curling round and a strange light-show playing out into the forestry. Never did work out what it was.
I need to lie down
There was the welcoming sight of Phil Chadwick and Phil Dyson at the EDM community hall, ushering us towards the canteen area. The food was good but it was now midnight and we needed sleep. Trouble was, the sleeping room was full, the corridors were full – I recognized brother J as one of the prone bodies - and the space in the canteen between and under the tables was occupied. Some riders were slumped over the tables. Even the deep-set window-sills were filled by slumberers. I spotted a space but realized that lying beneath the hot water geezer was probably not a good idea. Carrying on to Traquair was out of the question, because it was that stretch where the POTHOLES CATTLE GRIDS ANIMALS’ really were, and we didn’t want to do it in the dark. Ian checked with one of the controllers when the first wake-up calls were, but they were not for another couple of hours. I was beginning to despair, until controller ‘Glasgow Dave’ offered us the back of his estate car, parked out in front of the hall. I may have thanked him a little too profusely, but he did seem a saviour at the time, and still does. So we had another four hours sleep, slightly cramped and steamy, but quiet and dark and conducive to sleep to anyone who had just had 4 hours sleep in the last 30 hours, and had cycled 633 km in that time.
Thinking back, I don’t think we had any rain at all that day. There had been a brief, light shower when we’d been inside at Coxwold, and it had been threatening damp up to Eskdalemuir but we never got wet. Don’t believe all they tell you about the weather on LEL 09 – it wasn’t continual deluge. Waking up on the Tuesday though, we could hear the steady patter of rain on the car. The canteen looked a little less like a WWI dressing station, and spirits were rising as the breakfasts were sinking down the hungry stomachs of the early risers. Another heartwarming instance of possessions, thought lost, finding their way back to their owner. Alex Greenback’s glasses disappeared when he got up. The ever-efficient helpers had swept up the table empties and paper table-cloth into a bin along with the spectacles. A quick but frantic search and they were found, to Alex’s relief. And we were off, passing the surreal Tibetan Centre, made more surreal by my not being able to get the name of it right, and it persistently being the Sammy Lee Tibetan Centre in my mind.
That morning’s ride was the most worthwhile of the whole thing. I think we had rain on-and-off, but the scenery was, well, Scottish. Well Scottish in fact. I think we also had a good tail wind but I don’t think we were aware how strong it was. Don't it always seem to go that you don't know what you've got till you turn round into the face of a roaring headwind, as Joni Mitchell might have put it.
The Catch
Innerleithen was one of those very neat and proper solid stone lowland towns, well cared-for by its inhabitants. The same went for the putting greens on the town’s golf course which we passed on the way out. Up ahead I could just make out my brother and we finally reeled him in after a long chase, a bit later than Thorne. He introduced us to his 3 Italian riding companions. Franco was quiet, polite and undemonstrative – a ‘gentleman’, as John described him. I’m still not convinced he was Italian. Ausilia was petite, smiley and tough; a 24-hour off-road world champion, no less. Roberto was tall and rangy, voluble, and he was gesticulating at most of the passing cars. There wasn’t so much doubt that he was Italian. As the effects of his antics were beginning to wear-off we found ourselves at the top of the last of the many climbs since the border. Laid down beneath us for our ocular delight was Edinburgh, the Firth of Forth and the Kingdom of Fife beyond it. Apart from the gorgeous view, with the southbound route being longer than the northbound, we were pretty much at the half-way mark. The realization dawned that I really might be able to do this thing. Soon we’d actually be pointing in the right direction, counting the miles down rather than counting them up. Being there with John added to this special feeling. And what’s more, it looked like a stonking descent. Hallelujah! With an imaginary (I think) whoop of joy, I let rip and threw myself and my bike down the hill, the euphoria lasting all the way to the A7 and the tricky urban approach to Dalkeith Rugby Club, waving at friends and acquaintances already on the return, and acknowledging other southbound riders with a nod or a wave.
Arrival. First there was a request for a photo from Ausilo of my besandalled feet next to John’s besandalled feet. Then to business. Get card stamped and stow it safely away. Locate bag drop. Shower. Brush teeth. Change into clean fresh lycra. That feels good. Eat and drink. Take a breather. Prepare to go. And off. Minimum faffage. Going home.
Homeward Bound
I’m seldom at my best after a control, and this turned out to be worse than usual. By the time we got to the gradual climb of the A7 I was struggling, and all the pre-turn euphoria had disappeared. The stream of passing lorries didn’t help. Ian passed and told me to tuck in but I could see that he was finding it difficult to go slowly enough for me. There wasn’t even a head-wind yet. I couldn’t believe how far it was to the right turn off the A7, but when we got there I could make out a string of riders determinedly ploughing their own furrows up the hill. Time to dig in. Just keep the pedals turning.
And then after a couple of hundred metres or so a strange thing happened. It has happened before - 4 times on the stretch between Llandovery and Brecon on the Brevet Cymru, twice on the Bryan Chapman, after Newton. It seems to happen when I’m well into a long ride, about 5km-10km after a control, and on a long hill. It doesn’t have to be very steep, just uphill and long. And this strange thing that happens? Well, I go quite fast, that’s all. Quite fast for me. I wasn’t just passing other riders, I was zooming past them. While they were seemingly gurning through their struggle, I was grinning. It felt great. I think there’s a morphing from ‘here we go, just keep going, it doesn’t matter how fast I go, just try and avoid walking’ through ‘the quicker I get to the top the quicker it’s over, even if it hurts’ to ‘wow, this is great, this can go on forever, bring it on.’ And I’ll bank those feelings from the Moorfoot Hills by Edinburgh for the next time I’m there. Follow me if you can.
To be fair to Ian he overtook everyone else as well so I did not have to do much soft-pedalling to wait for him. What little I had to do, though, turned into hard-pedalling because we were now facing the teeth of the gale which was being funnelled up the valley. So head down and power on. We picked up another silent Italian who tucked in behind and used us as far as Innerleithen, when we let him go ahead. His overlapping wheel had become annoying. I used to get into the mentality when things were difficult that they would go for the whole ride. But experience teaches that is rarely the case. The head-wind never seemed as bad as that first descent from the Moorfoots.
In Innerleithen we met and stopped to chat to Yannig Robert. He was going well on the bike he’d ridden for the first time the day before the ride, lent by Alex Greenbank after Yannig had discovered a crack in his frame. He ended up riding pretty much all of LEL with a new French acquaintance, and was looking comfortable on the borrowed bike.
We reluctantly declined the delights of Traquair, other than the card-stamp. I’m not sure why now, other than a desire to get to our sleep stop as soon as possible and maximize the chances of a bed. Ian started speculating when it would be that we’d meet Dai and Ron on the Welsh tandem, and within five minutes there they were. They had started in the afternoon and suffered worse weather than us. They claimed not to be enjoying it but Dai’s grin gave the game away.
Eskdalemuir had a feeling of the day after the night before, with someone’s Mum having been in to tidy up a bit. It was calm, dry and quiet, though apparently that was to change a couple of hours later when the weather closed in and some of the riders were stranded for hours, advised not to risk the weather. I’m glad we had the early start and that we had pressed on somewhat. After the control was the first hill I’d encountered thus far which required use of the granny gear, though that may have been down more to post-control laziness than steepness. The following descent to Langholm was a pleasure, knowing now that there were no POTHOLES CATTLE GRIDS ANIMALS, and I was able to enjoy the scenery I couldn’t make out in the darkness the night before. I hadn’t been looking forward to the A7 but it turned out not to be so bad. I’m not sure if the wind had turned, or died down a bit, but it was no real problem.