Yet Another Cycling Forum
General Category => The Knowledge => Further and Faster => Topic started by: WattChaser on 31 March, 2013, 07:46:16 am
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Hi all
I am looking for a heart rate monitor, primarily for monitoring heart rate zones. I want to be able to monitor my heart rate throughout a ride, not just get an average.
I started out looking for simple and since my research began have found so many other stats I can measure! As a mathematician this is music to my ears, sad I know, but I now cannot make a decision.
I will be using the monitor inside on my turbo trainer and outside on my bike, so is it worth getting GPS at the same time. My cateye velo 8 is good, but less than accurate at all times and being 7 years old might be in need of an upgrade.
All in all I need your wisdom, knowledge and advice please. I have about £200 now. Though could wait a little longer so I can afford to pay a bit more if necessary, but impatience to get on with heart rate training also makes me think 'I want to buy it now'!
Thank you in advance.
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I bought mine from BHIP (http://www.bhipltd.co.uk/). I have no affiliation with them, but I rang to chat with them and they will talk you through what you want to achieve with the monitor and suggest appropriate models. It seems to be a small team there, which includes at least one triathlete, and they understand what they're selling. My first one was a Polar 610i, because I wanted to record over long periods and needed sufficient memory to do so. Later on, when I wanted to do speed/distance/cadence I went with Suunto, as I could buy whichever 'pods' I wanted to add to the mix.
These days, I mostly don't bother any more!
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I'm a big Garmin fan, the 500/510's monitor zones, function properly as a cycle computer and can work indoors with a speed/cadence sensor. Plus if you ever decide to use one to navigate although they don't have mapping you can preload and follow a course which appears as a line on a blank background, I've completed 170 mile rides using that method so can vouch for it!
There's a comprehensive review of the 510 here: http://www.dcrainmaker.com/2013/01/garmin-edge-510-in-depth-review.html
And the older model 500 here: http://www.dcrainmaker.com/2009/12/garmin-edge-500-in-depth-review.html
The 510 is only recently launched so less readily available currently, prices should soften slightly once it's been out a while. List price is £299.
The 500 is currently available at Handtec with heart rate, speed & cadence for £169 which frankly is a bargain! It may be available for less elsewhere but I've used Handtec a few times before including having to return stuff and they were great.
http://www.handtec.co.uk/garmin-edge-500-heart-rate-monitor-speed-cadence-010-00829-01.html
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I'm using a Garmin Etrex30 with a Bontrager soft strap ant+ HRM, and the Trek combined speed / cadence monitor. Seems very reliable. I hear the 510 / 810 can do more interesting things with HRM signal, but the first priority for me was GPS battery life. In that the monitors use ANT, you can always add another 'display'. I trend to use the GPS in map display with time and distance showing, and have a Bontrager Node 2.1 showing speed, cadence and HR displayed.
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I use a zephyr hxm ($80 imported from the USA by a friend) that talks (Bluetooth) to my Android phone. It's relatively cheap, there's a range of apps it links with, which will give all the data you can shake a geek-stick at, it's USB rechargeable (no fecking about with CR### batteries) & the same sensor will work when I upgrade phones with regulatory.
HRM training is 'fun' for a bit, then the monitor sits in a drawer for 6 months while you have actual fun riding, then comes out again for the next round of training. By choosing a sensor that works via Bluetooth means I'm not tied into a monitor that will become obsolete (hopefully).
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If you decide to get a Garmin hrm strap, bear in mind there's the older (but reliable) strap which isn't strictly waterproof, andthe new comfort strap which is waterproof but has some issues (unless they've fixed it) re glitchiness - there's a bit more detail on dcrainermaker. IMO the old strap's perfectly comfortable - a bit like the old polar straps in form, but the battery is replaceable (which is why it's not waterproof)
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I use a zephyr hxm ($80 imported from the USA by a friend) that talks (Bluetooth) to my Android phone. It's relatively cheap, there's a range of apps it links with, which will give all the data you can shake a geek-stick at, it's USB rechargeable (no fecking about with CR### batteries) & the same sensor will work when I upgrade phones with regulatory.
HRM training is 'fun' for a bit, then the monitor sits in a drawer for 6 months while you have actual fun riding, then comes out again for the next round of training. By choosing a sensor that works via Bluetooth means I'm not tied into a monitor that will become obsolete (hopefully).
Zephyr are awesome. The epidemiologists I work with are all giddy about the Bioharness.
The HXM looks great =- works with strava et al. I'm tempted to get one for phone nerdiness.
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If you decide to get a Garmin hrm strap, bear in mind there's the older (but reliable) strap which isn't strictly waterproof, andthe new comfort strap which is waterproof but has some issues (unless they've fixed it) re glitchiness - there's a bit more detail on dcrainermaker.
There is a newer improved version of the soft strap, which apparently fixes most of these issues. Though still maybe not quite as reliable as the older version. See this photo from DC Rainmaker:
(http://www.dcrainmaker.com/images/2012/08/how-to-fix-heart-rate-strap-chaffing-issues-thumb.jpg)
IMO the old strap's perfectly comfortable - a bit like the old polar straps in form, but the battery is replaceable (which is why it's not waterproof)
Yes, the old style strap is mostly comfortable for me, though I have found it sometimes slips down my chest. This is mostly when running, its less of a problem when cycling.
The newer style strap doesn't slip as much. I found it was sometimes chafing, causing red marks/cuts on my chest, though I have fixed that with a sticky plaster. See http://www.dcrainmaker.com/2012/08/how-to-fix-heart-rate-strap-chaffing.html
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As per fboab's comments, I would go for a Bluetooth hrm for future-proofing reasons, especially if you already have a smartphone. Don't know the Zephyr but the Wahoo one is also good - and there's the Wahoo RFLKT bike computer out soon.
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The future for HRMs is probably Bluetooth Smart. Though this is not compatible with older Bluetooth devices. It seems so far it only works on the Iphone 4S or 5. Quite a few Android phones have the hardware, but the required drivers are not available yet.
I don't think its worth worrying too much about future-proofing - HR straps are cheap enough, and don't last forever anyway. Just buy something that works and does what you want now.
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I've never had an issue with the waterproofness of the older style Garmin straps. Not exactly comfy but they do the job nicely.
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Thank you to all of you for your contributions I am now a VERY pleased owner of an Edge 510. Statistical collections begin today! I am VERY excited.
First step: obtain max heart rate.
Thank you again.
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Too late I know, but I've had an Aldi one for about six years now and it still works well. All of £12.95.
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Hmmm, I think I've shot myself in the foot, I should have done more research ...
I have a Garmin HRM which talks to my eTrex 30 although it seems to take a while to connect up. I was hoping to monitor heart rate zones which the E30 doesn't do. And my Garmin HRM won't talk to my iPhone which only receives Bluetooth not Ant+
Any ideas???
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I have a Mio which rather than a chest strap you wear like a watch. Mine is Bluetooth but here is an ANT version as well.
Links with my phone for Strava etc..
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I have a Garmin HRM which talks to my eTrex 30 although it seems to take a while to connect up. I was hoping to monitor heart rate zones which the E30 doesn't do. And my Garmin HRM won't talk to my iPhone which only receives Bluetooth not Ant+
Any ideas???
Depending on what version iPhone, you can get a dongle which adds Ant+. eg Wahoo fitness make one. Though it costs £50, and means you have another bit sticking out of your phone, which could get broken etc.
Probably easier/cheaper just to get a heart rate monitor which can transmit in both Ant+ and Bluetooth Smart. There's a few of these, eg Wahoo fitness have a chest strap. Or Mio or Scosche for wrist strap style.
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I recently bought a CicloSport CM 9.3A which is a classic counter with an atmospheric altimeter, and direct measurements of speed, elevation, distance, heart rate and cadence. It will also give you a roughly-derived power figure or will take an ANT+ power meter. It records every n seconds, n being a user parameter. Nice thing is that it outputs its data as .FIT or .CSV files (plus one other that I can't remember). The .FITs upload to Strava, the .CSV can be gobbled by Excel; but I'm writing my own prog to process them. Fun.
The batteries on counters such as these last for months, which isn't the case for rechargeable GPS units. I use an Etrex 20 alongside.
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Hmmm, I think I've shot myself in the foot, I should have done more research ...
I have a Garmin HRM which talks to my eTrex 30 although it seems to take a while to connect up. I was hoping to monitor heart rate zones which the E30 doesn't do. And my Garmin HRM won't talk to my iPhone which only receives Bluetooth not Ant+
Any ideas???
Pretty sure mine (old strap/E30) connects up fairly quickly, tho' normally I'm waiting for it to find satellites.
Yeah, you can't do heart zone stuff like you can on a Polar (and presumably the Edge range), but the HRM data *is* in the gpx log, tho' that's kinda after the event.
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Hmmm, I think I've shot myself in the foot, I should have done more research ...
I have a Garmin HRM which talks to my eTrex 30 although it seems to take a while to connect up. I was hoping to monitor heart rate zones which the E30 doesn't do. And my Garmin HRM won't talk to my iPhone which only receives Bluetooth not Ant+
Any ideas???
When you say 'monitor zones' do you mean you want to use the HRM to deliberately work within a specific zone? What's to stop you working those out yourself (is not rocket science) and self monitoring as you go?
Mr Smith is supposed to keep his HR low and watches as we ride. It would be just as easy for him to remember intervals at 170 and 'rest' at 140 and aim for that.
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Don't be silly fboab. You wouldnt get to use Ant+, or Bluetooth, or an iPhone, or Strava, or Instacardiogram, or ....
And it would only cost about £30. That can't possibly have any benefit!
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That's true.
I use a Bluetooth HRM, connected to my phone and get endomondo to talk to me as I go. And then upload it to Strava, share it on Facebook and post pictures of my red sweaty assets on instagram. Much better. (and it cost £80- though it was several years ago now. I'm probably due an upgrade)
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I don't do strava, and I don't care about zones- I can work out whether it's hard or easy myself ;) I'm not sure why you need it to tell you zones, can't you just work them out and then you know what they are, or am I missing something?
But I'm lazy and I lose things all the time, so I only want one item, not one I have to swap with every bit of equipment.
So I love my wahoo tickr, the strap thing was about £50, but it's a million times more reliable than the useless garmin ones- it talks to all my garmins, plus phone, plus HRM watch if I want but never actually use that, plus spin bike.
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I got myself a Garmin 500 as a belated Christmas present, along with one of the 'new' (they've been around for over four years now?) Garmin HRM straps. I decided on this as it does everything I want it to do - act as a bike computer, display HR so I can monitor as I go along, record HR so I can pore over it later, act as a basic GPS nav if I want and record my track so I can link HR to how fast I was going at the time. It does that in one neat unit so I don't have a speedo on one side of the bars, my phone on the other etc etc (plus my phone is pretty pants and I'm not due an upgrade yet). Whatever this talk is about Garmin HRMs being unreliable, I've had absolutely no problems with mine so far and I'd happily buy another one.
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I don't do strava, and I don't care about zones- I can work out whether it's hard or easy myself ;) I'm not sure why you need it to tell you zones, can't you just work them out and then you know what they are, or am I missing something?
I like having zones for pacing and training. Also, on the Edge series you get the zone plus a decimal place, so Zone 2.8 is high endurance, Zone 3.2 is low tempo, etc. If I'm doing a long ride then I'll try to keep my HR between these two, i.e. in a high endurance, low tempo range. Obviously it goes up on hills. If I'm doing a short ride, < 1h 30, then I'll try at mid Zone 3 to mid Zone 4 (threshold).
I guess it depends on whether you're happy just riding at the same speed all the time. I'm quite time limited and I know that, after the winter layoff, I can get back to a decent fitness by mixing long rides (3hrs) at Zones 2.8 to 3.2, short rides (1.5hrs) at 3.5 to 4.5 and intervals on the turbo (high Zone 4, 5 mins, 4 to 8 repeats), in a much shorter time than if I just rode a lot of miles.
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I’ve had three HRMs to date. Just simple ones with upper alarms. I set the alarm to the ‘so called’ max for my age and went riding.
When the alarm sounded, I put an X on the routesheet as soon as possible to remind me never to go there again with the same gearset.
Now, my Audaxy bike has a 21” lowest gear.
I went on ‘The Towering Trees’ which has a 28% hill for at least 100 m. The alarm didn’t sound so now I don’t bother with a HRM.
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I'm still missing something. I do long dawdling audaxes at around 16mph or even slower, I do quick intervals/tempo stuff, and I time trial at 27mph+.
If, for, example, I want to do intervals in zone 4 or whatever, and that's 185-190 say, why do I need my HRM to tell me that? Don't I just need to see the numbers? If I'm doing a TT at 190+, I just need to see it's 190+. I genuinely don't see what other info I'd ask it for!
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Apart from the HRM function I like to have a counter that's driven from the front wheel: GPSes short-change you on distance.
As for zones, I don't give a monkey's although I try to not to exceed the cardiologist's limits by more than 10%
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I'm still missing something. I do long dawdling audaxes at around 16mph or even slower, I do quick intervals/tempo stuff, and I time trial at 27mph+.
If, for, example, I want to do intervals in zone 4 or whatever, and that's 185-190 say, why do I need my HRM to tell me that? Don't I just need to see the numbers? If I'm doing a TT at 190+, I just need to see it's 190+. I genuinely don't see what other info I'd ask it for!
Yeah. I can sort of see how someone would like something really simple like Zone 2/3/4, but all this talk of Zone 2.8 and Zone 3.2: surely it's simpler to just ride at 180 or 190?
(on which subject, I rode last night's 10 at 180 and it definitely wasn't hard enough)
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I'm still missing something. I do long dawdling audaxes at around 16mph or even slower, I do quick intervals/tempo stuff, and I time trial at 27mph+.
If, for, example, I want to do intervals in zone 4 or whatever, and that's 185-190 say, why do I need my HRM to tell me that? Don't I just need to see the numbers? If I'm doing a TT at 190+, I just need to see it's 190+. I genuinely don't see what other info I'd ask it for!
Yeah. I can sort of see how someone would like something really simple like Zone 2/3/4, but all this talk of Zone 2.8 and Zone 3.2: surely it's simpler to just ride at 180 or 190?
(on which subject, I rode last night's 10 at 180 and it definitely wasn't hard enough)
180 would be hard enough for me... but then I'm likely older and with a lower max than you, and almost lower than 180 too
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But how do you know what 190 represents for you?
The zones represent exertion levels. Zone 2 to (low) Zone 3 you should be able to ride in all day, so long as you eat. Upper Zone 3 you would struggle to ride for more than 2 hours. So I can monitor my zone and go as fast as I can in that zone, without risking over-exertion.
If you've done a max HR test (and my max HR is ~13% higher than it's supposed to be for someone of my age), then you will have the numbers for your zones. So you know where you are in the zone - so you might as well use the zones in you cycling computer.
If you haven't done a max HR test then you have no idea what 190 bpm means to you. The formula for working out max HR is bunkum.
Of course, you can just go by perceived exertion, which people did for years. I'm not confident in my perception of my exertion, though. I'll always go off too fast and then collapse in a heap, puking in a hedge, or fail to complete a ride.
Sometimes I do feel a bit like Froome, staring at his stem all the time, so I do the occasional unplugged ride and I don't wear a HR on my commute, either.
Edit: also, my memory is bad. When I'm out on my bike, it tends to get worse. Zone 2.8 on the cycling computer is easier for me to interpret than 153 BPM, and I don't have to remember my numbers for the zones.
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Zones: If you know that your Zone 2 is 150 - 170, why not just stare at a number that says 150 to 170, rather than 2.1 to 2.9? Surely it's no harder: it's just replacing one number with another?
My max should be around 190 according to the commonly used theory. Teh Internetz says that the standard deviation for that approximation is something like 6.5 bpm, so 95% of people will be somewhere in the range of 13 bpm either side of that figure.
TLDR: I really should go out and find my actual maximum.
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My HRM strap (one of the Wahoo Tickr range) does bluetooth smart and ANT+. It pairs nicely with the phone via bluetooth for gym usage. I'm on the lookout for a cheap(-ish) way to have the HR visible on the bike though. I was going to go down the smart-watch route for this (Garmin vivoactive, for example) but might just upgrade my E20 to an E30 so I can have the display on there (and presumably recorded along with the track).
I have no interest in having it decide zones etc. (You can always tape the numbers to your stem if you really can't remember them ;)). I'd be quite interested in analysing those in post-processing, though (time in each zone etc.) to gauge the quality of my training (i.e. how much I wussed out on my intervals).
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For the price of an Etrex 30 (or less) you could also get an Edge Touring or an Edge 500.
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Zones: If you know that your Zone 2 is 150 - 170, why not just stare at a number that says 150 to 170, rather than 2.1 to 2.9? Surely it's no harder: it's just replacing one number with another?
My max should be around 190 according to the commonly used theory. Teh Internetz says that the standard deviation for that approximation is something like 6.5 bpm, so 95% of people will be somewhere in the range of 13 bpm either side of that figure.
TLDR: I really should go out and find my actual maximum.
Yeah, I think I feel the same- I know what my max is, I know what my zones are, so don't feel the need to translate numbers into anything, it's just replacing numbers. I don't see that it's harder to remember number 2.8 or 3.2 than 183-189 or whatever. But whatever's easiest works I guess! The whole thing is pointless anyway for people guessing what their max is ;)
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For the price of an Etrex 30 (or less) you could also get an Edge Touring or an Edge 500.
True, but I want to use it for navigation on longer Audaxes where having the replaceable AA batteries is a real bonus (2x Lithum AA's last >40 hours in the E20, are considerably smaller than and weigh considerably less than a USB cache battery pack)
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Sure, but for the 360+ days when you're not doing a 400 or 600 km audax, you'll get a smaller, lighter unit with a bigger screen and the convenience of USB charging.
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Days using garmin on Audax 2014- 33
Days using garmin not on Audax 2014- 8 (Semaine Federale + Festive 500)
Days using HRM 2014- 80
Depends what your riding's like, doesn't it?
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Sure, but for the 360+ days when you're not doing a 400 or 600 km audax, you'll get a smaller, lighter unit with a bigger screen and the convenience of USB charging.
... and a different bracket to fit/remove on the bikes. I think "smaller/lighter" means nothing really to me given that the rider is too wide and heavy anyway ;). The bigger screen would be nice, but I would not necessarily see USB charging as a convenience.
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The battery life on the Touring is claimed at 17 hours, which should get you round a 300 - hence my specifying 400+ audaxes. If you're feeling paranoid, a small powerpack (http://www.pcworld.co.uk/gbuk/broadband-sat-nav-phones/mobile-phones-broadband/mobile-phone-accessories/pny-t2600-portable-usb-battery-charger-10024978-pdt.html?intcmpid=display~RR) really isn't significantly bigger than a set of batteries, and will top you up over a cafe stop. If you're doing long stuff, you might be carrying one for your phone anyway.
As for the convenience of charging USB vs remembering which of your AA rechargeables have how much charge in them, sorry Oaky but you're not going to win that particular argument :P
I also prefer the Edge bracket to the Etrex one!
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remembering which of your AA rechargeables have how much charge in them
Wandering off-topic here, but: Draw stripes on the cells with permanent marker for keeping pairs together. Store them in a 7dayshop battery box (http://www.7dayshop.com/battery-cases-storage/7dayshop-aa-aaa-battery-storage-case-blue), with the orientation denoting state of charge.
This is less critical now that I'm just running an eTrex, but it made all the difference with AA-powered front lights.
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[Still OT]
remembering which of your AA rechargeables have how much charge in them
Wandering off-topic here, but: Draw stripes on the cells with permanent marker for keeping pairs together. Store them in a 7dayshop battery box (http://www.7dayshop.com/battery-cases-storage/7dayshop-aa-aaa-battery-storage-case-blue), with the orientation denoting state of charge.
This is less critical now that I'm just running an eTrex, but it made all the difference with AA-powered front lights.
My trick was to mark my rechargeable D cells by having one pair marked with two bands of old inner tube and one with three.
Stopped them rattling in the dreaded Never Ready Nightriders.
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Probably gave them some impact protection for when the bracket inevitably failed, too...
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But how do you know what 190 represents for you?
The zones represent exertion levels. Zone 2 to (low) Zone 3 you should be able to ride in all day, so long as you eat. Upper Zone 3 you would struggle to ride for more than 2 hours. So I can monitor my zone and go as fast as I can in that zone, without risking over-exertion.
Your reasoning is a bit circular. How can you calculate your zones if you don't know what 190 represents for you?
Without a HRM, you can use your perceived level of effort to roughly determine which zone you are in, but you need to do a proper maxHR test to come up with some actual numbers in order to be able to program zones on your Garmin.
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MaxHR is bunkum also.
You’ll feel lactic well before your heart goes max.
Do a ‘CT 20’. A 20 minute ALL OUT blast on an ergometer after a good warm-up. Record the avg HR. You should have been around Lactic Threshold throughout the test.
Look what your HR was and mark that as the ‘Redline’, on your ‘tacho’ ie HRM.
A good training session is to ‘bounce off the redline’. Perform intervals just under and then over your Redline.
Repeat the test regular because after a few training sessions, your Lactic Threshold will increase and you will be able to reset the Redline on your tacho.
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Yeah, that's more or less what I meant by a 'proper' test (ie not just going balls-out for 30 seconds and taking the highest reading on your HRM).
The point is that you can't work out meaningful zones unless you know some meaningful numbers first. And, as others have said, if you know the numbers you don't really need to know the zones.
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Hey Lady C, gimme a break, I've only just got into this HR stuff! I promise I'll go find a hill and test myself over the weekend!
[Still OT]
remembering which of your AA rechargeables have how much charge in them
Wandering off-topic here, but: Draw stripes on the cells with permanent marker for keeping pairs together. Store them in a 7dayshop battery box (http://www.7dayshop.com/battery-cases-storage/7dayshop-aa-aaa-battery-storage-case-blue), with the orientation denoting state of charge.
This is less critical now that I'm just running an eTrex, but it made all the difference with AA-powered front lights.
My trick was to mark my rechargeable D cells by having one pair marked with two bands of old inner tube and one with three.
Stopped them rattling in the dreaded Never Ready Nightriders.
Been there, done that, got the coping strategies. Now that I've got an Edge and the lights I mostly use are also USB, this is one less thing I have to think about.
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If you haven't done a max HR test then you have no idea what 190 bpm means to you. The formula for working out max HR is bunkum.
The off the shelf zone calculators are also bunkum (=~averages), as are all the training zone charts you can find. What you can generally say is that a higher HR usually means you are working harder, but that is not always the case! Temperature affects HR, as does duration of exercise (cardiac drift).
From my threshold HR (estimated from three different methods), I can work out what HR ranges approximate to which "zones". However, the key to using zones is that it enables you to adjust intensity to duration and frequency. Most of my "training rides are 2 hours long (twice a day) therefore I will use my HRM to make sure I am working hard enough, if it drops below 135, I go harder, but not so hard that I am shattered before the end. Without a HRM I start to lose concentration. If I take it easy then my HR is around 125 average, a 10 mile TT will average ~150, although 25 years ago it was 185.
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The off the shelf zone calculators are also bunkum (=~averages)
Er ... averages are NOT bunkum. What's your statistical knowledge like, Mr Castro?!?
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Hmmm, I think I've shot myself in the foot, I should have done more research ...
I have a Garmin HRM which talks to my eTrex 30 although it seems to take a while to connect up. I was hoping to monitor heart rate zones which the E30 doesn't do. And my Garmin HRM won't talk to my iPhone which only receives Bluetooth not Ant+
Any ideas???
I use a Wahoo Tickr X which transmits on both Ant+ and BT, and will record even without a head unit or phone nearby. It talks nicely with every receiver I've tried (Edge 800, Vivoactive, iPhone5S, Sony Vaio, MacBook Air (BT), iMac (Ant+ dongle), and Elite rollers head unit. It can even control your music while on a run (if you do such unmentionable stuff), and has cool blue and red flashing LEDs to confirm you're alive!
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Hmmm, I think I've shot myself in the foot, I should have done more research ...
I have a Garmin HRM which talks to my eTrex 30 although it seems to take a while to connect up. I was hoping to monitor heart rate zones which the E30 doesn't do. And my Garmin HRM won't talk to my iPhone which only receives Bluetooth not Ant+
Any ideas???
I use a Wahoo Tickr X ... cool blue and red flashing LEDs to confirm you're alive!
This almost makes up for the music, but not to the extent that I'm about to replace my many years old Garmin cheststrap.
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Whilst browsing for a new cheapo/luddite unit, I see Polar are trying hard to lose me as a customer:
" POLAR FT1 Polar black
OCCASIONAL athletes to keep fit and practice their sport safely. "
AND IN UPPER CASE! Hruumph.
<thinks ...>
What the hell, they're still only £29.99 ...
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Yeah, that's more or less what I meant by a 'proper' test (ie not just going balls-out for 30 seconds and taking the highest reading on your HRM).
The point is that you can't work out meaningful zones unless you know some meaningful numbers first. And, as others have said, if you know the numbers you don't really need to know the zones.
Ah, but do meaningful numbers translate into meaningful zones? And how many zones? 5 zones? 6? 7? With or without decimals? Most of the magazine-type training advice articles assume 5 zones, but some don't - and Strava, Endomondo and the other websites seem to each have their own idea (or multiple ideas) on which is The One True Way. I'm not training for anything serious, but I do like stats so I regularly test for my MaxHR and Threshold HR/Power. That's enough to let me work out in my head what HR is roughly Tempo. Do I really need any other numbers? In any case, in my relatively lumpy bit of Suffolk/Essex, any significant upward slope has me pinned on MaxHR, the flat bits are at Tempo and the downhill bits off the bottom (unless fear becomes relevant). Doesn't matter what training approach I try and follow, it is always thus!
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Hmmm, I think I've shot myself in the foot, I should have done more research ...
I have a Garmin HRM which talks to my eTrex 30 although it seems to take a while to connect up. I was hoping to monitor heart rate zones which the E30 doesn't do. And my Garmin HRM won't talk to my iPhone which only receives Bluetooth not Ant+
Any ideas???
I use a Wahoo Tickr X ... cool blue and red flashing LEDs to confirm you're alive!
This almost makes up for the music, but not to the extent that I'm about to replace my many years old Garmin cheststrap.
You know you want to, nay need to! :demon:
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Hmmm, I think I've shot myself in the foot, I should have done more research ...
I have a Garmin HRM which talks to my eTrex 30 although it seems to take a while to connect up. I was hoping to monitor heart rate zones which the E30 doesn't do. And my Garmin HRM won't talk to my iPhone which only receives Bluetooth not Ant+
Any ideas???
I use a Wahoo Tickr X ... cool blue and red flashing LEDs to confirm you're alive!
This almost makes up for the music, but not to the extent that I'm about to replace my many years old Garmin cheststrap.
Actually, I'm already in danger of one of the new garmin straps with accelerometer, which would confirm that I bounce more and run with heavierbfeet than i used to... Only the need for a 620 watch has prevented me really.
Just occurred - I do have an old forerunner 305 spare if any one wants. You'll need a chest strap though.
Mike
You know you want to, nay need to! :demon:
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Tip.
If you are thinking of purchasing a HRM, buy one that you can program your zones and it gives a signal when you go through the thresholds.
Especially the upper zones as when one has been thrashing, memory of what HR is what zone becomes a bit wooly due to 'brain fart'.
Better still, hire a personal trainer to keep an eye on your HR for the effort you are exerting.
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The off the shelf zone calculators are also bunkum (=~averages)
Er ... averages are NOT bunkum. What's your statistical knowledge like, Mr Castro?!?
More than adequate for this analysis thank you Mr c. I never said that averages were bunkum, only implying that using data derived from such averages to produce hard and fast "zones" should not be treated as gospel. Hope this helps to make it clearer for you ;)
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Hmmm, I think I've shot myself in the foot, I should have done more research ...
I have a Garmin HRM which talks to my eTrex 30 although it seems to take a while to connect up. I was hoping to monitor heart rate zones which the E30 doesn't do. And my Garmin HRM won't talk to my iPhone which only receives Bluetooth not Ant+
Any ideas???
I use a Wahoo Tickr X ... cool blue and red flashing LEDs to confirm you're alive!
This almost makes up for the music, but not to the extent that I'm about to replace my many years old Garmin cheststrap.
Actually, I'm already in danger of one of the new garmin straps with accelerometer, which would confirm that I bounce more and run with heavierbfeet than i used to... Only the need for a 620 watch has prevented me really.
Just occurred - I do have an old forerunner 305 spare if any one wants. You'll need a chest strap though.
Mike
You know you want to, nay need to! :demon:
The Ticker X uses internal accelerometers too, and gives stride analysis etc via the Wahoo app I believe. 'Tis a very clever gadget, not just a vehicle for flashy red and blue LEDs!
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Tip.
If you are thinking of purchasing a HRM, buy one that you can program your zones and it gives a signal when you go through the thresholds.
Especially the upper zones as when one has been thrashing, memory of what HR is what zone becomes a bit wooly due to 'brain fart'.
Better still, hire a personal trainer to keep an eye on your HR for the effort you are exerting.
Like the Tickr the Mio allows different zones to be programmed in via an iPhone (and Android I think) app, you can choose between 3 and 5 zones and has coloured lights to show which zone you're in.
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The off the shelf zone calculators are also bunkum (=~averages)
Er ... averages are NOT bunkum. What's your statistical knowledge like, Mr Castro?!?
More than adequate for this analysis thank you Mr c. I never said that averages were bunkum, only implying that using data derived from such averages to produce hard and fast "zones" should not be treated as gospel. Hope this helps to make it clearer for you ;)
Marvellous. An excellent summary. Keep up the good work!
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Tip.
If you are thinking of purchasing a HRM, buy one that you can program your zones and it gives a signal when you go through the thresholds.
Especially the upper zones as when one has been thrashing, memory of what HR is what zone becomes a bit wooly due to 'brain fart'.
Better still, hire a personal trainer to keep an eye on your HR for the effort you are exerting.
Like the Tickr the Mio allows different zones to be programmed in via an iPhone (and Android I think) app, you can choose between 3 and 5 zones and has coloured lights to show which zone you're in.
Green = relaxed
Yellow = steady
Orange = getting tough
Red = thrashing it.
Black = ‘Game over’.
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I also use a Wahoo TkrRun or whatever it's called with bluetooth connection to the phone... been very handy for spinning classes (HR monitoring, and zones in particular) and running intervals (where I'm more concerned about my running cadence and smoothness). But their app is not as good at keeping hold of a gps signal on a phone as strava is...
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I had forgotten until last night. I have a fourth HRM. It’s incorporated in my digital sphyg’.
You should try, as I did last night, slowly getting up to 85% of FTP on an ergometer and then doing a BP test with an automatic digital sphygmomanometer. :thumbsup:
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Hmmm, I think I've shot myself in the foot, I should have done more research ...
I have a Garmin HRM which talks to my eTrex 30 although it seems to take a while to connect up. I was hoping to monitor heart rate zones which the E30 doesn't do. And my Garmin HRM won't talk to my iPhone which only receives Bluetooth not Ant+
Any ideas???
I use a Wahoo Tickr X ... cool blue and red flashing LEDs to confirm you're alive!
This almost makes up for the music, but not to the extent that I'm about to replace my many years old Garmin cheststrap.
Actually, I'm already in danger of one of the new garmin straps with accelerometer, which would confirm that I bounce more and run with heavierbfeet than i used to... Only the need for a 620 watch has prevented me really.
Just occurred - I do have an old forerunner 305 spare if any one wants. You'll need a chest strap though.
Mike
You know you want to, nay need to! :demon:
The Ticker X uses internal accelerometers too, and gives stride analysis etc via the Wahoo app I believe. 'Tis a very clever gadget, not just a vehicle for flashy red and blue LEDs!
And one arrived today! Thanks Tim. Will tryba run tomorrow lunchtime and see how thebrunning metrics work. It synced with my garmin watch and bike computer fine.
Mike.
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I've just acquired a Wahoo Tickr as well. It says it wakes when it detects a heartbeat; either mine is very lazy, or I spend a remarkable amount of time each day dead.
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Most HRM straps struggle if your skin is dry - I always wet the sensor pads with a bit of spit when I put it on. That said, the Tickr X seems to be very good at picking up my heartbeat, but then I'm quite sweaty!
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Most HRM straps struggle if your skin is dry - I always wet the sensor pads with a bit of spit when I put it on. That said, the Tickr X seems to be very good at picking up my heartbeat, but then I'm quite sweaty!
Certainly it seems to make a better contact than a 10 year old Garmin strap, but both can be reliable with a bit of saliva!
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Yup, seen that in the FAQ - maybe my saliva is not good quality enough ;p
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I always wet the sensor pads with a bit of spit when I put it on.
I used to do that, but now find it easier to have a glass of salty water handy, and add a few finger-loads from it, after I've put on the strap. This seems to have made the device much more reliable, too.
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I use this (https://www.medisupplies.co.uk/Medical-Consumables/Ultrasound-Gel)for mine. I paid less than £2 and the bottle's lasted more than 12 months.
It's only when I first put it on it had a problem. By the time I've ridden to the gym it's nice and sweaty (eeew).
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I use this (https://www.medisupplies.co.uk/Medical-Consumables/Ultrasound-Gel)for mine. I paid less than £2 and the bottle's lasted more than 12 months.
It's only when I first put it on it had a problem. By the time I've ridden to the gym it's nice and sweaty (eeew).
I didn't want to say, but it's a rare thing for my skin to remain dry for long once I'm running or riding
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Bought a Decathlon own-brand unit today. Went for the 2nd cheapest - #12 just seemed absurd!
A new one every 2years will be cheaper than battery faffing (sad - but I don't design the things ::-) )
So far it has no less functionality than my #35 Polar - quality may be the issue, but there's a 2year warranty.
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I want a second heart rate monitor for my 810. Wahoo Tickr still everyone’s favourite ? I am curious about the zones set up as how do you see colours when it under several layers….
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I'm a fan of the Mio Link. It goes round your wrist and has coloured lights to show what zone - programmable - you're in.
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I'm now using broadcast mode on my vivosmart HR. I doubt it's as accurate as a chest strap but it's close enough, and I'm wearing it so don't forget to put it on.
It's rubbish for rowing though, too much arm action. My Bluetooth one doesn't do ANT+ and has been mostly retired.
The zones show on my 520 so it doesn't matter that my wrist is under layers.
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Thanks guys I just blew £760 on a pair of wheels so that's the end of that! Lol
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I'm now using broadcast mode on my vivosmart HR. I doubt it's as accurate as a chest strap but it's close enough, and I'm wearing it so don't forget to put it on.
It's rubbish for rowing though, too much arm action. My Bluetooth one doesn't do ANT+ and has been mostly retired.
The zones show on my 520 so it doesn't matter that my wrist is under layers.
What's broadcast mode?
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I'm now using broadcast mode on my vivosmart HR. I doubt it's as accurate as a chest strap but it's close enough, and I'm wearing it so don't forget to put it on.
It's rubbish for rowing though, too much arm action. My Bluetooth one doesn't do ANT+ and has been mostly retired.
The zones show on my 520 so it doesn't matter that my wrist is under layers.
What's broadcast mode?
It transmits ANT+.
like so (https://www8.garmin.com/manuals/webhelp/vivosmarthr/EN-US/GUID-AC0E8CD6-FD71-4845-ADB1-2E97F785EFAC.html)
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On waking up a TickrX mine always wakes up if I touch the contacts with my left and right hand. YMMV.
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Thinking of getting one, to connect with phone. I don't have a smart watch.
Gym machine heart rate detectors are a bit rubbish. Last night they were telling me I was pushing heart rate to 185, but then dropping to 110.
Would need to be waterproof so I can use while kayaking.
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Aren't they all waterproof? I always wash the tickr in a basin after use, been going for a couple of years now.
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Thinking of getting one, to connect with phone. I don't have a smart watch.
Gym machine heart rate detectors are a bit rubbish. Last night they were telling me I was pushing heart rate to 185, but then dropping to 110.
Would need to be waterproof so I can use while kayaking.
Wahoo TICKR (Wahoo seem to be allergic to the letter e) is IPX7 (5 feet) rated. I’ve had one for years and can recommend it.
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I use a Polar H10, which is rated for swimming as it also has internal memory; you can tell it to start an activity from your phone, leave your phone behind, when you get back to it use it to stop the activity and download the data. Waterproof to 30m apparently.
The H10 does Bluetooth, ANT+ and gymlink - which was important to me as I use all three; the gymlink mainly to my ancient Polar HRM watch for use when out on the bike. It can connect to multiple things at once, including multiple simultaneous bluetooth. Does pretty much everything I want, but is a little spendy. And if you are a larger person , the included strap is a bit on the snug side. I'm a 44" chest, so not massive, and the strap is right at the end of its adjustment - though you can buy larger ones, which I have done for longer rides. You can't (or couldn't) buy it with the larger strap fitted instead of the smaller one.
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Aren't they all waterproof? I always wash the tickr in a basin after use, been going for a couple of years now.
I think they are all rinseable, but there is a difference between rinsing in a sink and forcibly submerged in seawater.
Being under my top and PFD, probably little water would get there, however I sometimes paddle for hours and the monitor would need to survive having a soaked Tshirt or base layer over it.
The wahoo tickr sounds good and I'm surprised how affordable it is; similar price to nameless chinese.
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I have had a Garmin for years but then swapped to the H10 and it is more comfortable. I think I had to do something to activate multiple Bluetooth connections but it only took a second.
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For the past year or so I've been using the Polar H9 (I don't need the memory and two BT connections the more expensive H10 offers). Works well but it is very important to disconnect the unit from the cheststrap (at least at one side) or battery life is really bad.
Before this I had a Tickr, didn't have the battery problem but after about three years one of the pushbuttons used to connect to the strap disintegrated.
The one before that was a Garmin, lasted for years but eventually started to act erratically, losing connections, spikes etc. Replacing the strap didn't help.
I think you can't go wrong with either one, just don't expect them to last a lifetime.
Regardless of make, it's good practise to handwash the strap (without the unit) once in a while.
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HRM are pretty old tech now, by which I mean there's little benefit in a big name and a cheap chinese knock off will do the same job for much less.
I use the one on my watch, or a different arm one which cost about £15.
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For the past year or so I've been using the Polar H9 (I don't need the memory and two BT connections the more expensive H10 offers).
[...]
The one before that was a Garmin, lasted for years but eventually started to act erratically, losing connections, spikes etc. Replacing the strap didn't help.
+1
I had a Garmin one that lasted for years and saw out several straps and batteries before becoming erratic. I replaced it with a Polar H10 on the basis that it seemed to be regarded as the best HR monitor currently available. It's been a drop-in replacement (I'm using a cheapo strap, modified so I'm not lying on any of the clippy bits when using a recumbent seat), and it seems considerably less fussy about insufficient sweatiness[1] than the Garmin. I haven't used any of the wanky memory features, but I thought they might be useful at some point.
[1] I attributed the intermittent behaviour to the combination of weight loss and cold weather, but Summer didn't fix it.
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I use a Ciclosport pickup on a Polar strap talking to a Garmin eTrex 30x. Works well unless it's too cold to sweat. I do have a Garmin pickup but the eTrex can't detect it. ???
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I really like Polar's, especially the models that still support their original 5KHz scheme (I'm guessing they're still providing it because so much gym kit uses it). For precise heart rate tracking, the 5KHz signal beats bluetooth simply because every beat is reported in realt-time. It's brain-dead simple and very reliable (again, presumably good for gyms with a complex RF environment) - to receive it, just plug a telephone pickup (or other coil) into the audio input of a phone/tablet/PC etc.
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The Tickr is working ok for me.
So far I've used it in the gym once, and 3 times when kayaking.
It is useful in the gym to confirm I'm going too hard (>170bpm being really too high).
Only see readings from kayaking once I've finished a session. Still useful seeing when I was in each zone, and helps me set effort levels for next time.
Mostly I'm aiming for 120-130 bpm for sustained exercise.