Cutting the steerer tube on my new frame?

[Pedaldog.]

So I have the frame and forks of the Thorn Sherpa just a-waiting for me to find courage and fettle!

The forks have the full height of steerer tube on them and I will have to set the general bar height and see how I should cut the spare off. How do I do the cutting? Is it just a hacksaw and hope it's a straight cut or is it more critical than that? I haz a Joonier Hacksaw and a Vice to play with so what should I do? maybe I should take the forks, marked out, to a local workshop and get them to do an accurate cut.  Help!

[PeeJay]

I use an old stem as a guide to make a straight cut. Just clamp the stem in the appropriate place and hacksaw down the side of it. It scratches the stem a bit, which is why I've got an old one that I use only for this job.

Then file the steerer to smooth off the saw marks and a quick once around the edges to de-burr. Job done

Clamp the stem in the vice rather than the fork too. - especially with carbon forks.

[Chris N]

A full size hacksaw with a decent blade makes the job a lot easier too.  Take your time, and remember that you can always file a bit more off if it's not straight (though it really doesn't need to be bang on) - so make sure you err on the side of caution.

[Rhys W]

Measure twice, cut once!

[delthebike]

Measure twice, cut once!

Wise words!
If you cut it twice it'll still be too short! 

[Aidan]

It's a Thorn. Dont cut , just fill with spacers 

I use a jubilee clip as a guide, which works well enough, then make sure I use a file to smooth it off,  and have found it doesn't matter if its not absolutely perfectly straight anyway.

[frankly frankie]

It's not critical (provided you don't err on the side of 'too short'!).  It doesn't even have to be a neat cut.

[Biggsy]

Pipe cutter or junior hacksaw as well as grownup hacksaw can be used, and insulating tape as guide.

Definetley leave it longer than you think you need. Can always have spacers above stem.

[Domestique]

However you cut, jubilee clips make a good cheap guide for hacksaw use, measure twice, cut once.

[Pedaldog.]

Thanks for the replies. I'll attack it with a proper sized hacksaw this coming weekend. Then it's the Star Nut to fit. Is that simple and straight forward?

[YahudaMoon]

Personally I wouldn't attack it with a hacksaw . Im not saying it's wrong, just more chance of it being a bodged job. You want a pipe cutter for a proper fool proof job and  or even better take it to the LBS and get it done for free.

Personally iD leave it in case you decide on a a change of position

[Efrogwr]

The star nut is a bugger, because it has to be driven in. It will resist this. The workshop tool is a lump of steel with a threaded end for the nut. You knock it in like a giant nail and the unscrew the tool.
i prefer the USE Ringo Star (I don't know whether or not it's still made), which is a clamp that fits in place of some of the spacers. The "expander" bungs sold tor carbon steerers may work, too.
The star-fangled nut is only there to set the bearing preload. The adjustment is held by the stem.

[CAMRAMan]

I've seen lots of bikes I would have bought but for the shortened steerer. Admittedly, I do like an upright position, but why cut it when spacers will allow you much more flexibility in riding position?

[Feanor]

Thanks for the replies. I'll attack it with a proper sized hacksaw this coming weekend. Then it's the Star Nut to fit. Is that simple and straight forward?

As others have said, it's actually perfectly straightforward.
A full-size hacksaw is best.
Be aware that many hacksaws have a tendancy to cut at a slight angle!
Either use a guide, or correct by eye and hand if you are reasonable skilled.
Use a half-round file to de-burr and finish off the top.

As regards installing the star-nut, it is also straightforward, but a little intimidating the first time you do it.
You don't need the special tool, but it helps to keep it square and sets it at the correct depth.
You can bodge this easily enough with any random bolt that fits into the thread of the nut, and a hammer.
Screw the bolt into the star nut, and whack the head of the bolt.
You'll need to whack it firmly to get the lugs into the tube, and that's a bit scary.
It will go in a bit cock-eyed initially, but have faith.
Use some vectored whacking on the bolt to get the remaining lugs in, and then a few gentle taps will straighten it up just fine.
Do try to get it as square as possible, or you may struggle to get the cap-bolt to start.

I've also used this trick to help keep it square:  Find a socket in your socket-set that's a close fit to the inside of the steerer.
Place that on top of the star-nut, and pass the random bolt through it and nip it up.
This will act as a centraliser and drift.
Once it's set, un-screw the bolt and remove the socket centraliser-drift.

Depth is not actually that critical, just don't set it too deep where tha cap-bolt can't reach it!
It neednt be more that about 3/4 of an inch or so.
Test-assemble the whole lot a couple of times as you go, just to make sure.

--
F

[Tewdric]

The best way to do this is with a sharp hacksaw and a saw guide made for the purpose and a star nut setting tool.  Your LBS will charge not a lot to do this and it's something to consider to get it done properly.  You can bodge the job without he proper tools but a bodge is what it would be IME.

[henshaw11]

In addition..in the event of *not* having a spare stem as a cutting guide, use your existing stem and scribe around the steerer using the stem as a guide. If you want to make the line a bit more visible, go over the area with an indelible marker first, and scribe into that. Don't forget you need a gap from the top of the steerer to the top edge of the stem to allow preload to happen.

With an ally, and particularly carbon, steerer, don't overtighten the vice on it (probably best to wrap it in something to protect it from the vice jaws too).

I tend to use a hope hed-doctor rather than faff with a SFN - pretty easy to use but judging by assorted forum posts some people seem nigh on incapable of understanding them/how the preload works, and/or reading the instructions...

You can always err on the side of caution and allow for more spacers - if it's still too long having ridden it for a while you can alway cut the extra off at a later date.

[frankly frankie]

Can always have spacers above stem.

Should always have (a) spacer above stem.  At least if it's a carbon steerer.

[giropaul]

I've seen lots of bikes I would have bought but for the shortened steerer. Admittedly, I do like an upright position, but why cut it when spacers will allow you much more flexibility in riding position?

Because it makes the bike look like an amateur is riding it  Bikes must always have a pro-like position (even if  I you can't reach the drops)

I've quoted the Velomanti rules before, but just as a reminder:



"A maximum stack height of 2cm is allowed below the stem and a single 5mm spacer must always – always – be stacked above.  A “slammed down” stack height is preferable; meaning that the stem is positioned directly on the top race of the headset"   

[Biggsy]

Can always have spacers above stem.

Should always have (a) spacer above stem.  At least if it's a carbon steerer.

Agreed.  I meant more than that - though there comes a point when it looks ridiculous, and won't suit a bung.

It's worth getting a couple of 2 mm spacers, as well as deeper ones, to fine tune your position.

But you'll want to cut at least some off the steerer when your frame is small.

A pipe cutter will be good if it's good.  I had a rubbish adjustable one that went round in a spiral.  A junior hacksaw with a 32 tpi blade, then a file, has been ok for me.  The top face doesn't have to be perfect.  Nothing touches it (except for some two-part expanders).

[Pedaldog.]

I think I shall go the Biggsy route of Junior Kaksaw and file. I could get a dealer to do it but I was quoted £15-00 for the labour and that is money that I need to go to getting a new chain for it all.

[Feanor]

Seriously, just do it.
It's no big deal.

It's *not* a bodge not to have the correct tools, just a bit more fiddly.
The end result will be every bit as good.

I've done about 6 now, and every one has been EXCELLENT.

--
F.

[Biggsy]

A little extra tip for the final step:

Slightly chamfer the end of the steerer with a file to make it easier to slip the stem on.  They can be tight.

[Pedaldog.]

Slight delay to the fettlerisations!   Teh Haksore is broked! I didn't break it "On the Job" but it was in a box in the back room and it was broked, the saw itself not the blade, when I found it earlier!

[Pedaldog.]

But then I spoke to Calvin from Ghyllside cycles in Amblesdie. I've had many dealings with him and he is one of the "Good Guys". He charged me five "Earth Pounds" and cut the steerer straight and fitted the Star thingy as well. He didn't manage to chip and scratch the paintwork as I and I would have almost certainly done so I am happy with that. I reckon that, with Luck and a tailwind, I might have it rideable by Christmas!

[Feanor]

Ambleside, you say?

You'll be one of them 'ard buggers that sprints up the struggle for a pint at the Kirkstone Pass Inn, then?

I've never cycled up that way; I did the route of the Fred Whitton earlier this year, and that takes the longer way up Kirkstone, via Troutbeck.
I'd like to have a go at it, though!

We stayed at the Holly How YHA in Coniston, which is great as a cycling base.

Glad you got your steerer sorted.

--
F