Author Topic: Aluminium seatpost seems stuck in steel seat tube - any suggestions for removal?  (Read 9421 times)

There's a YT vid of someone trying cola incubation of stuck seatpost for two weeks - didn't work.
Cycle and recycle.   SS Wilson

Have you asked Paul Hewitt for advice, I’m sure he’s seen it all before?

A

Have you asked Paul Hewitt for advice, I’m sure he’s seen it all before?

No I haven't, but it's an idea. Not looking forward to explaining that I didn't use any anti-seize grease when I installed the seatpost, though...
Old enough to know better, but young enough to do it anyway

Have you asked Paul Hewitt for advice, I’m sure he’s seen it all before?

No I haven't, but it's an idea. Not looking forward to explaining that I didn't use any anti-seize grease when I installed the seatpost, though...

You won’t be the first, or last, to have this issue! 👍

Paul

  • L'enfer, c'est les autos.
What's so funny about peace, love and understanding?

PaulF

  • "World's Scariest Barman"
  • It's only impossible if you stop to think about it
Based on recent (20 minutes ago) experience I can recommend the use of a plumber’s pipe freezing kit. Having managed to twist the clamp whilst the post stayed in the frame using a vice I froze it and it came out with some brute force.

When you apply the copper slip use more than you think you’ll need, I’d used it on that post but evidently not enough!

The best way to get these out if really stuck is to use a puller, probably how the seat post bloke does them.
I've removed a loads now. You need a split collar that is a sliding fit on the post and a good fit on the top of the seat tube, then a clamped split collar on the post itself, this needs to be accurately sized for the post to avoid damage as it's clamped with considerable force.
The clamped collar has two threaded rods which apply force to the sliding collar and it's a simple job to pull the post out, haven't failed yet.

If I knew how to post a picture it's obvious, there are photos and video of the process on my Instagram (same name).

I've tried all the dissolving, heating and twisting nonsense, a puller is the way to go, I've no idea why bike shops don't have them - I've removed a few for local bike shops.

Samuel D

Link for people who’re not curious enough to go digging as I did. Though the verbal description was clear.

Link for people who’re not curious enough to go digging as I did. Though the verbal description was clear.
Thanks for that.

zigzag

  • unfuckwithable
is this visible to anyone without the ig account?

https://www.instagram.com/p/BZvQN1OlFLk/?taken-by=identicalbutlighter

thank you for your input identicalbutlighter, loving your craftsmanship!

is this visible to anyone without the ig account?

https://www.instagram.com/p/BZvQN1OlFLk/?taken-by=identicalbutlighter

thank you for your input identicalbutlighter, loving your craftsmanship!
Yes it is.
Ta.

ETA: That's quite a spesh / task-specific (and impressive) tool. Unless you are an LBS, I cannot see too many people investing in one of those - unless they really, really love their frame that has a seat post stuck in it .

The best way to get these out if really stuck is to use a puller, probably how the seat post bloke does them.
I've removed a loads now. You need a split collar that is a sliding fit on the post and a good fit on the top of the seat tube, then a clamped split collar on the post itself, this needs to be accurately sized for the post to avoid damage as it's clamped with considerable force.
The clamped collar has two threaded rods which apply force to the sliding collar and it's a simple job to pull the post out, haven't failed yet.

If I knew how to post a picture it's obvious, there are photos and video of the process on my Instagram (same name).

I've tried all the dissolving, heating and twisting nonsense, a puller is the way to go, I've no idea why bike shops don't have them - I've removed a few for local bike shops.

How do you fancy removing mine? :-)
Old enough to know better, but young enough to do it anyway

Quite happy to remove it  :). I'm up in Cumbria though. I do occasionally get to Oxford though as relatives there.

mcshroom

  • Mushroom
The only time I've had to do it was on a Dawes R520 steel touring frame and an alloy (Thorn) seatpost. I managed to get the post to shift by soaking it in WD40 Penetrating oil (the specialised stuff, not normal WD40), over a couple days and then bashing the nose of the saddle with a rubber mallet. Everything survived, although I haven't reused that post since.
Climbs like a sprinter, sprints like a climber!

Over the last few weeks I've been occasionally squirting a bit of the specialised WD40 on to the top seat tube/ well stuck seatpost, and once or twice through the bottle cage boss holes with the bike upside down.  Not sure if this has done much, but maybe...

This pm, having ridden at this saddle height for a few years, I finally thought I wanted to try the seat a tad higher....  So, with a rush of blood to the head, I took the B17 off, and using a lump hammer with and without a block of hard wood on to the top of the seatpost, I managed to whack the seatpost into the seat tube a couple of inches - thinking I may loosen the 'bonds'.  Unfortunately I couldn't whack the seatpost up.   I then stared into the 'it wasn't that broken, so why did you try and fix it' abyss...   I coated the seatpost with WD40, took a large pair of mole grips and clamped them on to the angled top of the seatpost, and then managed to turn the seat post in the seat tube a little.  So I added squirts of lithium grease, and kept on turning, until with some force I was able to do full rotations of the seapost (along with some horrendous metallic squeaking).  I kept on doing this for a while and then started to add upward pressure, and found using a measuring tape, that I was actually lifting the seatpost bit by bit.  A while later it popped out!   New (original) seatpost now installed (well greased), and saddle higher to try - leg locked out with heel flat on the pedal (unlike before), with hip movement OK.  Testing tomorrow. 

Not suggesting this a method to follow, but worked for me.
Cycle and recycle.   SS Wilson

Over the last few weeks I've been occasionally squirting a bit of the specialised WD40 on to the top seat tube/ well stuck seatpost, and once or twice through the bottle cage boss holes with the bike upside down.  Not sure if this has done much, but maybe...

This pm, having ridden at this saddle height for a few years, I finally thought I wanted to try the seat a tad higher....  So, with a rush of blood to the head, I took the B17 off, and using a lump hammer with and without a block of hard wood on to the top of the seatpost, I managed to whack the seatpost into the seat tube a couple of inches - thinking I may loosen the 'bonds'.  Unfortunately I couldn't whack the seatpost up.   I then stared into the 'it wasn't that broken, so why did you try and fix it' abyss...   I coated the seatpost with WD40, took a large pair of mole grips and clamped them on to the angled top of the seatpost, and then managed to turn the seat post in the seat tube a little.  So I added squirts of lithium grease, and kept on turning, until with some force I was do full rotations of the seapost (along with some horrendous metallic squeaking).  I kept on doing this for a while and then started to add upward pressure, and found using a measuring tape, that I was actually lifting the seapost bit by bit.  A while later it popped out!   New (original) seatpost now installed (well greased), and saddle higher to try - leg locked out with heel flat on the pedal (unlike before), with hip movement OK.  Testing tomorrow. 

Not suggesting this a method to follow, but worked for me.

Glad it worked for you at least! Congratulations! :-)
Old enough to know better, but young enough to do it anyway

The best way to get these out if really stuck is to use a puller, probably how the seat post bloke does them.
I've removed a loads now. You need a split collar that is a sliding fit on the post and a good fit on the top of the seat tube, then a clamped split collar on the post itself, this needs to be accurately sized for the post to avoid damage as it's clamped with considerable force.
The clamped collar has two threaded rods which apply force to the sliding collar and it's a simple job to pull the post out, haven't failed yet.

If I knew how to post a picture it's obvious, there are photos and video of the process on my Instagram (same name).

I've tried all the dissolving, heating and twisting nonsense, a puller is the way to go, I've no idea why bike shops don't have them - I've removed a few for local bike shops.

Are you by any cchance a precision engineer who makes that sort of kit himself? I am jealous and green with envy.

Glad it worked for you at least! Congratulations! :-)

 :)  I may display the seat post I extracted, near the rest of my bike stuff as a reminder to perhaps do an annual re-grease.

I don't really have an idea about where my seat post was on teh scale of posts resistant to removal.  Likewise I don't know if I was at risk of frame damage from hitting the seatpost down with a heavy hammer *, but the force for moving the seatpost into the frame does seem fairly efficiently transmitted.  Perhaps it's possible that for seatposts that can't be initially twisted in the seat tube, that if the post can be moved downwards first, it is much more likely to be twistable (and removed)...

* at original installation the post was definitely the right diameter and installed easily - so frame damage unlikely I think.  Sheldon says never, never install a seatpost by hammering, which makes sense!
Cycle and recycle.   SS Wilson

The best way to get these out if really stuck is to use a puller, probably how the seat post bloke does them.
I've removed a loads now. You need a split collar that is a sliding fit on the post and a good fit on the top of the seat tube, then a clamped split collar on the post itself, this needs to be accurately sized for the post to avoid damage as it's clamped with considerable force.
The clamped collar has two threaded rods which apply force to the sliding collar and it's a simple job to pull the post out, haven't failed yet.

If I knew how to post a picture it's obvious, there are photos and video of the process on my Instagram (same name).

I've tried all the dissolving, heating and twisting nonsense, a puller is the way to go, I've no idea why bike shops don't have them - I've removed a few for local bike shops.

Are you by any cchance a precision engineer who makes that sort of kit himself? I am jealous and green with envy.
And, if you did make that yourself, have you considered how much you might charge to make another one ?
Rust never sleeps

I have an aluminum seatpost stuck in a steel frame.

Perhaps 8-10 years ago I did some bikefit measuring (amateur) and decided that I wanted to raise the post perhaps 1/4" to 1 cm.  That's when I found it was stuck.

Tried a variety of substances to loosen things up - several smelly penetrating oil products, upside down frame with dissolving solutions poured into the seat tube, etc.  No joy.  Heat, twisting in a vice, no motion. 

Resigned myself to live with it (and, acquired N+1 and then N+2) so the old short-wheelbase, 74-degree parallel bike just languished.  It has sentimental attachments, so won't be going away.

Then, last summer went for a ride with a group of other "classic" racing bike owners.  To prepare, went to the cobbler and got the J. Anquetil cleats renailed on my Detto Pietros, pulled the Look pedals off and reinstalled the Campagnolo ones.  Pumped up the tires and did a trial run.  Voila, seat height felt "just right" - before it had seemed, well, 1/4" to 1 cm low.  And it was fun to ride the old bike again.  Who knows, I may even put wheels with tubular tires on next time.

The newfangled "clipless" pedals and shoes had thrown the geometry off.  I do still want to loosen the seatpost, but the matter is less urgent now.

Hi, is Identicalbutlighter still active? I have a classic steel seatpost (before micro-adjustable) in a steel frame that is stuck. I was able to move it 4cm down but need to now extract it. Hoping that Identicalbutlighter, who also is in Cumbria, can help with his cool invention :) You out there mate? ::-)

S2L

I had a particularly nasty case, main issue was that over 20 cm of it were stuck in the tube, it was a long seatpost, so even using a knife saw was out of question. After having tried a few methods, I decided to take the frame to the recycling centre... it was a sad day, but after 5 years of daily use it owed me nothing. Will never buy anodised aluminium seatposts again

I have successfully removed seat pins that were into the frame by about 10", by sawing. You just need the right saw.

cheers

S2L

I have successfully removed seat pins that were into the frame by about 10", by sawing. You just need the right saw.

cheers

The plan was to sell the frame afterwards... I figured out the money I would make would not be worth buying a special saw (which I could not find anyway) and spending too much time on the job, assuming I ever succedeed...
Anything less than near new is almost worthless in the second hand market (unless it is a Colnago Master)

I just want to say a huge THANK YOU to Identicalbutlighter who kindly removed my stuck steel seatpost from my steel framed Gazelle Tour Populair yesterday using his amazing seatpost removal tool!  ;D When it popped out I must say it was a 'hallelujah' moment...

Cheers mate! It's great that there are such kind bike people out there! It makes the world a better place and the YACF so positive!