Tange headset service?

[andyoxon]

This Tange 1" threaded headset (model?) currently on raleigh record sprint frame, & I've removed the rubber cap, but there's only one nut - not familiar with this type.  The nut is on pretty tight, so just by holding the frame I can't undo it.   Headset feels notchy so I need to take a look.  If it needs replacing I think for this raleigh it's a Tange 1" J.I.S. I need.

Any ideas?  Best way to disassemble / service?

HS1 by a oxon, on Flickr

HS6 by a oxon, on Flickr

[LittleWheelsandBig]

Tange had/ has a range of interesting threaded headset designs. I think it comes from the Japanese need for Rinko (quickly removing the fork to pack a bike in a bag on a train).

I expect there is a beefy toothed keyed washer or (rarely) a big preload spring under the locknut to stop the adjustable cone loosening in use, despite limited torque on the locknut. Rinko headsets tend to use a hand-tightened locknut or a single short tool but Westerners (including me) often really tightened down the locknut because of the headset designs we are familiar with.

What happens when you remove the locknut, bracing the fork against turning near the fork crown?

[andyoxon]

Tange had/ has a range of interesting threaded headset designs. I think it comes from the Japanese need for Rinko (quickly removing the fork to pack a bike in a bag on a train).

I expect there is a beefy toothed keyed washer or (rarely) a big preload spring under the locknut to stop the adjustable cone loosening in use, despite limited torque on the locknut. Rinko headsets tend to use a hand-tightened locknut or a single short tool but Westerners (including me) often really tightened down the locknut because of the headset designs we are familiar with.

What happens when you remove the locknut, bracing the fork against turning near the fork crown?

Thanks for this.  Yes, that's the immediate challenge - fork bracing to get the nut undone.  Have to have a look around.   

[LittleWheelsandBig]

The handle of a hammer between the fork blades while holding the head tends to give enough leverage.

[andyoxon]

Thanks - hammer with rubber handle did the trick.   

Anatomy of this Tange...   Locknut,washer, cap, finger tightening race (with tool indents), bearing retainer.  Upper HT race pristine, lower surfaces bit tarnished bearing run looks fine - all bearings good. 

So I guess the question is how to guage correct load on bearings with finger tensioning, & locknut?


HS4 by a oxon, on Flickr

HS5 by a oxon, on Flickr
HS3 by a oxon, on Flickr

HS2 by a oxon, on Flickr


Wonder what the Tange model is?

[LittleWheelsandBig]

Tennessee windage! Set the adjustable cone the tiniest bit loose and figure that tightening the locknut will snug everything up properly. It might take a couple of goes to get it right.

The crown race looks a bit brinelled. If you replaced the caged bearings with loose, it will be smoother.

[rogerzilla]

If you just want the bottom end of a Tange headset, I can send you one.  Check lower stack height and crown race seat diameter. A Falcon cartridge bottom end might work.

Edit: Falcon is ISO only but I'm sure I have a JIS Passage.  Personally, I'd just mill the fork to ISO.

[andyoxon]

Cheers both - will have a go at adjusting & see how smooth I can get it.  Thanks for the offer rz.