Yet Another Cycling Forum
General Category => The Knowledge => Topic started by: LittleWheelsandBig on 28 January, 2024, 06:03:34 pm
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HK has a new-to-her Greenspeed GT3 recumbent trike that has been somewhat unusually modified. It has a Sturmey-Archer drum brake/ dynohub wheel with an electrical connector that I’ve not seen before. I have a dynolight but not the matching connector. The wheels have to be removed when the trike is fully folded for train/ plane travel, so a connector is required.
https://www.sturmey-archer.com/en/products/detail/x-sdd has a less than perfect picture of the hub and its connector which has a couple of shiny pins within.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/192683819916 The third photo shows the matching connector and dynamo cable that didn’t come with this particular trike.
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The good news is that the parts list indicates you need HSE003 - https://www.sturmey-archer.com/files/catalog/files/181/PART%20LIST%20-%20X-SDD.pdf
The bad news is that no-one seems to list it in the UK, only in the USA - scroll down to find it for $5.99 + shipping - https://www.sturmey-archerparts.com/completelist.htm.
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Just from the pictures that looks like the plugs from the fairly generic rechargeable bike lights with separate batteries. Similar to this one. If it is then you may be able to pick up a cheap battery and utilise the lead.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265227849485?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&_trkparms=ispr=1&amdata=enc:18vmvja6sRnuoUA1nzAXEZw99&customid=EAIaIQobChMI6NWX9-iAhAMVupGDBx1_xQF4EAQYFCABEgKnqvD_BwE
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Just from the pictures that looks like the plugs from the fairly generic rechargeable bike lights with separate batteries. Similar to this one.
Nahh, those are a standard DC barrel jack with extra bits to keep the rain out.
The Sturmey thing looks more like a bastard hybrid of a mini-DIN and the socket you get on generic DC adaptors where you can swap and reverse the plug to suit the appliance. You can just about make out the two contacts in the photo if you have a good monitor and squint.
If there's enough cable to play with I'd be tempted to lop it off and replace it with something less proprietary.
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The type of connector that should be cut off and replaced with something sensible?
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That was the conclusion I was heading towards but I might try a couple of my Sturmey contacts first.
I don’t know if the cable is coaxial but I hope not. I will probably have to splice in an Igaro too. All good fun.
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'CPC' do a wide range of resonably priced connectors - this maybe a bit chunky..
(https://cpc.farnell.com/productimages/standard/en_GB/CN21328-40.jpg)
https://cpc.farnell.com/mbs-connect/sp1311-s2iic/circular-in-line-socket-2-p-5/dp/CN21328 (https://cpc.farnell.com/mbs-connect/sp1311-s2iic/circular-in-line-socket-2-p-5/dp/CN21328)
or
https://cpc.farnell.com/hylec/thb-381-a2b-l/ip68-plug-2p-7-0-8-0mm-cable-w/dp/CN20677 (https://cpc.farnell.com/hylec/thb-381-a2b-l/ip68-plug-2p-7-0-8-0mm-cable-w/dp/CN20677)
Of course a smouldering iorn is required
One problem I find with CPC is finding stuff
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That looks like a relative of the one I used on the Fridge-O-Matic (https://yacf.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=121241.msg2790216#msg2790216), the panel mount version of which warranted a rummage through the box of novelty drill bits and is therefore definitely far too chunky for bicycle use.
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'ow about these? not waterproof though - Size is compromise between ease of initial assembly - pingfuckits and soldering, robustness and ease of use with cold fumbly fingers. Double sided Velcro anti rattle strapping is useful.
https://cpc.farnell.com/binder/09-9747-70-03/plug-3way-free/dp/CN12066 (https://cpc.farnell.com/binder/09-9747-70-03/plug-3way-free/dp/CN12066)
(https://cpc.farnell.com/productimages/standard/en_GB/1122802-40.jpg)
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10mm external diameter at the thick end, which is a bit more sensible.
The datasheet's worth it for the excellent German names for parts on the exploded diagram.
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The datasheet's worth it for the excellent German names for parts on the exploded diagram.
Quite right, I just had a look
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Email fired off to the European head of SunRace-Sturmey-Archer. Fingers crossed.
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10mm external diameter at the thick end, which is a bit more sensible.
The existing plug is closer to 7mm max. width. The hub has to be removed from the kingpin when the trike is fully folded, so a plug that is close to the axle diameter (12mm) is at risk of catching (damaging the cable) when removing the wheel.
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Sunrace Sturmey-Archer Europe don't have the plug in their warehouse or workshop and weren't even able to advise what the connector actually is.
Adam's link appears to be the only online supplier of the cable in the world. I am leaning towards grams' suggestion but will need more guidance as to the ideal replacement connector.
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Lemo have one small enough.
WARNING these are beautifully engineered professional connectors.
Reasons for not recommending earlier:
Cost alotta £££'s
Right faff to assemble with collets pinkfuckits and teensy tiny solder pins.
Sold as parts, body, strain relief, contacts.
I'm not selling this well am I?
https://www.lemo.com/ (https://www.lemo.com/)
But hey, good lookin'...
(https://www.mouser.co.uk/images/lemo/images/LEMO_00_FFA_series_t.jpg)
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Just found some my stuff box. connector body OD, 7 mm cable 3.3mm. 1 pin, shell completes circuit just them one not so teensy pin to solder. D.yhpm
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Does anyone know what connector(s) Solid Lights used? (when they were trading!).
They seem to be a nice connector with good mechanical durability but mostly plastic, I've only encountered the 2 pin variant on one lamp (dyno version) in the cycling world.