Yet Another Cycling Forum
General Category => Freewheeling => Topic started by: rogerzilla on 02 May, 2017, 08:23:55 pm
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I think we need a thread for current bike builds or conversions, although Wobbly John will embarrass us all.
What's taking shape in your shed/kitchen?
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I don't think I've finished a bike project for over 3 years. :-[
There is a part built up Dawes Galaxy in the garage, and all the parts to go on a new time trial frame I bought - I don't think I'll ever get the fitness back to time-trial again, ever... :facepalm:
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I have two builds on the go, for accidental reasons, and one small modification:
1. 1951 Holdsworth Tornado, which will use a Sturmey-Archer AM medium-ratio rear wheel. The rest of the kit will be modern-ish as I'm not faffing around with cottered cranks and brake cables that get broken if you flip the bike on its back. Frameset currently at Argos being painted and with an SA roller and cable stop added - the clamp-on ones are horrid. The idea behind this, as well as using a nice rear wheel that has been hanging up for years, is to build a fast bike that can make the most of the hub; it's much nicer than a derailleur and, although it only has three speeds, they're exactly the right three speeds (16.6% up or 14.3% down, compared to the common AW 33% up or 25% down). Will be geared at 42 x 18; I already run one of these on the clubman at 41 x 18 and it could do with a slightly higher ratio on a stripped-down bike.
2. Mystery (very light) late 1940s frame, possibly an Ellis-Briggs, which will use a 1960s Sachs Duomatic kickback-to-change hub. This will have short straight bars with just a front brake lever on them (the Duomatic has a coaster brake built in). Will gear it unconventionally at 42 x 20, so normal gear is the cruising gear and high gear is an overdrive for downhills. Most people seem to gear them so high gear is for cruising and low gear is for starting, but on a 3-speed with normal gear at 55-60", I use the low gear a lot less than I do the high gear. Also, there is less wear and more efficiency if you use direct drive as the cruising gear.
3. Refit the original crankset to the Raleigh Twenty. The chainline is problematic with the short cranks I got for Miss Z's legs and I'm sure she can cope with 165mm cranks. One problem is that the original owner (who wrote off the fork) also cross-threaded the pedal, but it didn't go in very far and the crank will probably be OK, even if it needs a 9/16" tap running through it. I have managed to find some nice "R" cotter pins. There is absolutely no front chainline adjustment possible with a Twenty as it uses an super-wide BB shell* which nothing fits apart from the original 26TPI Raleigh BB.
*probably to accommodate the twin struts between the main tube and BB shell - it's a cross frame design.
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All of my bikes are current projects. I can't leave anything alone - I suppose it's a distraction from actually riding them. :-[
Anyway, I'm in the middle of a complicated 3-way drivetrain reshuffle:
1) the ti bike (ex-fixed) is getting gears (1x10 with a bar end shifter, MTB rear mech and an 11-36 cassette), using the cranks from the commuter fix and the rear wheel and 40T narrow/wide chainring from my Cannondale. I've got new stem, bars, tape and saddle to go on it too.
2) the commuter gets the cranks and BB off the ti bike and a new chainring, chain and sprocket. I'll probably put some moustache bars on it along with the stem from the ti bike at some point.
3) the Cannondale goes back to a double from 1x11 - it's donating the front ring to the ti bike. I need to refit the front mech, cable (cranks need to come out for this - bloody internal routing) and LH shifter, and rebuild the original rear wheel.
The MTB needs a new rear dropout after the rear mech got dragged into the spokes a couple of weeks ago and snapped the mech, bent the dropout and damaged the chain. I'll probably fit a SS kit to while I'm at it rather than refitting a rear mech and gears.
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one of the projects that needs to be resurrected is to turn my stock folding bike into a fast(er) one. need to build two wheels, improvise a rear brake attachment and somehow lower the handlebars.
also have a vague idea of stripping/respraying my audax bike (still deciding on what colour and graphics i actually want)
all bikes are running nice and smooth and how i like them
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Change of plan on the mystery frame (no longer such a mystery: I'm 90% sure it's an Ernie Clements, since the rear fork-ends are very much his own design and he had a shop in Wednesbury in 1949). The Duomatic brake will probably be too much for the rear chainstay, especially the way the rear fork-end is brazed, so it's going to roll on old Campagnolo Record hubs and be a singlespeed. I'll reduce the Record spacing and make the rear wheel dishless, provided I can get the right chainline. It should be a sub-18lb bike as the frame is only 4lb 2oz and the wheels will be 28h, with folding bead tyres.
The Duomatic, when I get the right part for it, will be better on the Raleigh Twenty, which has the right spacing already and is sorely in need of an effective rear brake. Since the conversion to BMX size 20" wheels (originally it had larger British size 20" wheels), it's needed a 100mm drop rear caliper and frankly this is for ornamental and legal purposes only, since there is so much flex that it barely slows the bike at all. The Duomatic will give it an effective brake and the Twenty chainstays can easily cope with the reaction arm. Front braking isn't an issue on the Twenty because I had to replace the bent fork, and I got one with V-brake bosses :)
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Update on the Ernie Clements: dropouts now filed out to take modern hub axles and wheels built. Put the f&f together with the wheels and it is really going to be a looker when it's done, with slack angles and a tight fork curl (you have to ignore the crappy blue powdercoat - it will be orange with white bands). Must have been built with sprint rims in mind because the tyre clearance "crimps" are exactly right for 700c; a 27" tyre would almost certainly foul the chainstays. The seat tube is 22.5" which is just about right for me; the bars tend to end up a bit too low on 21.5" or 22".
Chainline should be about right; it's going to depend how far the crank slides onto the BB spindle. I have 45mm at the back and on paper it's going to be 46mm at the front but this isn't totally predictable with square taper. I might need a 1mm spacer under the freewheel for perfection, because I can't remove anything else from the RH side of the axle.
It is going to be super-light without the use of any particularly lightweight components. I'm expecting 17lb without pedals.
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Ooh, projects. At Christmas I finally assembled a Kinesis Aithein and Genesis Volare.
In the few days leading up to Deano's fabulous 'Don't Keep to the Roads' I built up the yellow peril - Chinese carbon drop bar gravelly thing. Finished bar the rear brake cable at 0220 the night before the event. Amazingly, there was a bike workshop open on the way to the start, where I bought a cable inner and fitted it before starting.
Last week I removed the guards, rack and dynamo wheels and lights from a Kinesis GF Ti and then, having ridden it up and down the road, gave it a quick clean and also removed it from the auction site.
Not sure what to do next. A mate sort of wants a proper bike and I have a Kinesis 5T that would fit, and enough bits apart from shifters, to make it work. Also thinking of getting the, now venerable, Spa Steel Audax sprayed and rebuilding. Would also work for mate or brother.
Then there's some other stuff of which more later.
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Currently rebuilding a 70's-80's Vitus 888 tubed Peugeot as my tourer with bits from the scrap bin. So far it is wearing a Spa triple and a Sachs-Huret Rival transmission with 7sp Sachs dt levers. I want something more comfy than the 700x28 wheels that were the biggest this frame would take so I am using the 650 rims off the tandem (Rigida ones for rim brakes, not the modern mtb offering) with a set of Schwalb tyres that I can't recall the name of (HS something or other, 38 or 40 section IIRC). Old double-pivot brakes seem to work (Weinmann on the front, GB on the back). Freewheel will probably be the 6sp 13-34 Shimano Megarange from the tandem (hope it comes off the hub!!). Saddle is a Brooks of course. Probably use the humongous chromoplastics and certainly a set of Blackburn lo-loaders that have already been tried and found to work on this frame. It might end up with an Alfine front dynohub, otherwise an old Maillard, and a Sachs nutted rear (in 126mm of course). Can't remember what the bars and stem are.
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Good luck with that freewheel! My mate Jeff was in the biz many years ago and said the word "futility" was redefined as trying to get a Sun Tour AG (5-speed, 14-38) block off a tandem wheel :D
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I stuck my Peugeot 653 bike onto the turbo (needed a certain amount of turbo fettling so as it was possible to have it in any resistance setting other than 10! I'll post in Bodge it for this at some point).
I need to finish off my trike (at least to make it work - the minimum it needs are the front cable run sorting, a shifter adding, and the headsets sorting) - thread here: https://yacf.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=94895.0
I have all the bits to build a 2 wheel recumbent, but I'm not doing it until the trike is done.
I also want to strip my fixie down, get it blasted and painted/powder coated and hen build it back up again.
And I need to get around to selling my BMX (rebuilt and resprayed early last year - never used since!).
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The Ernie Clements project is off. Top tube has a crumple in it. It was hard to be sure under the lumpy powdercoat but it is definitely a crumple, although the forks are fine (the old 531DB didn't have sacrificial forks like later tubesets did). Will look for another frame :(
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I must rebuild my Dawes Imperial, my preferred Audax bike. I've had the frame since 1990, and finally got Mercian to respray it this winter.
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/kvufulyqsjor3pf/Dawes-frame-small.jpg?raw=1)
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By coincidence, the replacement frame will be a Dawes Mirage. 531DB, Oscar Egg-style lugs and, curiously, a rear centre-pull brake hanger. The chrome on the fork is pretty shot and will just have to be painted over but it ticks all the boxes. Just so long as there's no structural rust.
The Mirage of the early 1970s was quite a high-specification clubman bike, what would be considered an audax bike these days. Basically a race bike with clearance for mudguards.
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I must rebuild my Dawes Imperial, my preferred Audax bike. I've had the frame since 1990, and finally got Mercian to respray it this winter.
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/kvufulyqsjor3pf/Dawes-frame-small.jpg?raw=1)
Wow! That looks stunning.
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Would look even better if I built it...
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What head badge is it - flaming torch or the even older one with a "D"? The 1970s one is boring so I've got a flaming torch one instead.
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The original was the plain Dawes name, like the left-hand image here:
(http://bicycledecals.net/images/Dawes_SET_8T.jpg)
It's a bit battered, and I don't have the steady hand to repaint it, so I contacted Dawes. They didn't have any like that, but offered me this:
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/7q2gbjcbzzt60wv/Dawes-headbadge.jpg?raw=1)
I suppose it's a bit of an anachronism, but this is a bike to use, not a restoration project, and I think it looks OK. After some thought, I also ordered one of these from the States to go on the seat tube:
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/u1k87zswqikp9se/Dawes-transfer.jpg?raw=1)
Here's the bike as it was originally:
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/xzxxtqr809sqbdm/Dawes-original.jpg?raw=1)
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I have a 1984 Brian Rourke which I have had from new and had it renovated by Mercian Cycles in 2015 and they did a very nice job on it with extra white panels on the seat and down tubes. However, the equipment was old and worn so mostly got thrown away and finding suitable equipment for it now is getting harder and more expensive than I am prepared to pay.
I should have had the rear ends re-set to 130mm so that I could have re-built it with a modern groupset and at the moment cant decide whether to do this or simply give in and sell the frameset which looks like new.
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I've reset quite a few rear ends. It's usually easy unless one side is much stiffer than the other (e.g. because of a clearance dimple for the chainring).
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Update on the tourer project: the transmission doesn't work. The front mech wouldn't go over the three rings. This has been replaced by an Acera triple which works just fine. The rear mech doesn't index (I thought it had been marked ARIS) and drags the cage on the big sprockets with the granny ring. No B screw to adjust and I think the heart of the problem is that the top spring is too weak compared to the cage spring - old age! It worked on the tandem but the tandem's hanger was ground up and brazed on by me and is further forward (or back perhaps) than the proper position. I will have to get to the next bike jumble and see what I can pick up in the way of rear mechs. The freewheel came off the tandem hub without a horrendous amount of difficulty (good thing too since I needed to recover the rim).
As discussed in another thread I have decided to use the tandem's front wheel with Sachs 700 drum brake hub. It is just too solid and round to strip down. The wheel is now installed and working with a generic Weinmann style drop lever (which was more of a bitch than I remember to install the cable). The calipers will be the next to be cabled with special cables already made up for the Weinmann twin cable lever.
The rear wheel is provisionally built but will need to be rebuilt with the correct spokes for X3. At present it is X2 and the drive side spokes need to be about 4mm shorter - just need to get round to ordering the right ones. It will do for testing. A new small flange Maillard hub slightly respaced to reduce the dish (bought as remaindered stock for 50FF so I have had it for a while) with 6sp freewheels.
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I have all the parts to build up a 1994 Kona Kilauea MTB but the frame is going to get a repaint first. The forks were acquired separately and, although they are the exact spec that would have been originally supplied for this frame (triple butted Project Two, 163mm steerer, 410mm blades) someone has helpfully had them powdercoated in an immaculate black, which is what I wanted anyway.
These bikes ride a lot better than modern Konas; the BB isn't as stupidly high, they don't have front suspension mucking up the handling and pogoing on climbs, and they don't have sodding riser bars.
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It's nice to to so many of you renovating your old bikes and rejecting this through away mass produced ideology we seem to have inherited.
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We're just old and nostalgic!
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We're just old and nostalgic!
And, in my case, skint
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I semi-accidentally won a Raleigh twenty Stowaway on eBay for ~20 quid. :)
Will see how much work it needs doing on it when I collect tomorrow. Plans are to ride it a little, make sure it fits in the back of my new car, strip it down and paint it, rebuild with bullhorn bars and maybe some nice wheels (I read somewhere you can fit 24" wheels in them) and a new BB and chainset (will need to investigate how to modify the BB shell).
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All of my bikes are current projects. I can't leave anything alone -
^^^ This. ::-)
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Here it is:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4360/36004660563_bf37f68a79_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WRBicH)IMG_20170826_093702 (https://flic.kr/p/WRBicH) by duncancmartin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90461577@N00/), on Flickr
Headset feels like it's a bit loose, but I guess that's normal for the nylon bushing thing? Tyres and (crappy) brake blocks are new, 3 speed SA gears work, apparently left hand crank bolt (cottered) gets loose sometimes. Gonna try it out a bit today and see how it is to ride.
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Keep the BB cups even if you change the axle.
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I believe you can replace the Nylon bush with normal headset parts.
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If those are 20 x 1 3/8 wheels - 451 ETRTO - you may just get 24" - 507 ETRTO - in the forks but not with the mudguards.
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If those are 20 x 1 3/8 wheels - 451 ETRTO - you may just get 24" - 507 ETRTO - in the forks but not with the mudguards.
What's the problem with 20x1 3/8? Unavailable or just fancy something different or with nicer/alloy rims in place of chrome steel. If unavailable from cycle sources are they used at all on wheelchairs (which would give sources of tubes and tyres but probably not cycle friendly rims)?
An alternative tyre size would be 500A which I think was the stock size for one of the rival mid-wheelers (Dawes Kingpin perhaps) or 550A. The old folder hanging in the shed has 500A in a 38 section (one new Raleigh tyre bought quite recently in France) and the Dino has a 500A x28 section on a nice alloy rim (28 spoke radial with a Hutchinson tyre that I am fairly certain is still available). 550A might well be more complicated, I don't have any experience with that one other than seeing bikes with that size in jumble sales.
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No problem, he just mentioned the possibility of fitting alternative wheels...
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They are 451s currently. I'm not a fan of steel rims for something that gets used a lot - braking in the wet tends to be pretty poor. I'd be happy to stick to 451s if I can get some decent rims.
I've seen the http://raleightwenty.webs.com/ website, and they have a headset replacement guide. The BB is a bit more complicated, so will need more thought.
It's surprisingly good to ride, and the handlebar adjustment makes it east to adjust how high the front end is, so it's definitely worth persevering with. I need to find somewhere that can sandblast bike frames - I'm building a collection of rusty ones I want to repaint!
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Most powder coaters will soda blast and do a single colour for £££ notalot.
The people I use do a gloss finish as part of the deal and they're good...
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Main limitation of the Twenty is the BB shell - very wide (78mm, I think) and Raleigh-threaded. Without serious machine shop work, nothing fits except the original BB, which limits you to the original cottered cranks.
406mm BMX 20" wheels were used on US market Twenties. They drop the BB height but it's still over 10" and perfectly acceptable (actually makes it a nice town bike). Front braking is much improved if you get a new BMX fork with V-brake bosses for about £15; you can then fit a standard headset! Rear braking is always going to be an issue unless you get a hub with a coaster brake; the rear end is pretty tight but some SA 3-speed coasters will fit, as will a Sachs Duomatic. 406 wheels have a brake drop of about 100mm at the rear, and the available side-pulls in that reach are totally ineffectual.
Design fault: you can never get correct chainline with the standard BB and cranks. You want to move the sprocket outwards but then the chain fouls the seatstay! You'll need a bushingless chain and no larger than a 15T sprocket to minimise the issue.
I would also throw away the steel seatpost and get a 400mm Kalloy or something, assuming you don't actually need to make the bike as small as possible for transport. Same goes for the stem.
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I'm pretty sure decent 451 ally rims and matching tyres are still available though it's been a few years since I had anything to do with the things.
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The reason for the blasting is that I'd really like to experiment with multi-colour painting using this stuff: https://spray.bike/
But I can't do it on a rusty frame, and my last attempt at cleaning a frame with sandpaper and a nylon clean and strip disc made a huge amount of mess and took ages, hence the blasting...
I definitely want to keep the ability to fold it, but I'm not sure how small it needs to be to fit into the boot of the new car, so I'll wait and see on the stem front. I'll almost certainly get a long kalloy seatpost.
If I can keep the 451 wheel size then I will - it means you don't need a dinner plate chainring and makes sorting out brakes easier. I'm gonna see if dual pivots will fit as well - no need for different forks then. It looks like decent 451 rims are available as some race BMX use them, but they aren't especially cheap. Ultimately it would be nice to slim down the BB shell and fit a sensible BB/crank setup, but that's not something that I would be comfortable doing straight away.
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Headset - in similar circumstances I replaced the upper bearings with 1" threadless parts.
Brakes - on a 1973 Dawes Kingpin with 451 steel rims I replaced the front brake with a deep dual pivot and modern brake blocks. A great improvement. I also replaced both brake cables with modern lined cables to give the brakes every possible chance. Seems to work just fine.
Gearing - I live in a hilly area so changed the rear sprocket on the Kingpin from 16T to 20T. This gives a top gear of about 65" and a bottom gear in the mid 30s. It is very ungainly climbing in such a riding position, so the very low gearing is helpful. I only use this bike for occasional local shopping and pub trips. Mine still has the tartan cardboard rack top bag.
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Getting there slowly! The bars and saddle aren't adjusted properly, I haven't worked out where to put the lights, I might need to change the bolt in the rear brake to fit a vestigial rack and I am not entirely convinced by the combination of front hub and low loaders. I have also found it impossible to fit another hub with a quick release with these carriers (can't work out how to close the qr, something always gets in the way). Also need to mod my big panniers to fix to the carriers and adjust the guards a bit.
(https://i.imgur.com/v4f2y0P.jpg)
Eagle-eyed readers will note that I have changed my choice of mechs. Less obvious is that rather than buy the right spokes for the original sf hub for the rear wheel I have rebuilt on a Normandie large flange; this hub has a french thread so I can't use my super wide freewheel and will have to make do with a 13-28 for the time being. This situation won't last long if the bike lives up to expectations.
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Good to see you're making use of the Peugeot. :thumbsup:
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Has to be done, when in France do a Peugeot....
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I am currently using a vintage 1981 Koga Miyata Full Pro as my daily commuter .... (bought 3 weeks ago) a superb ride, light and quick and it was a bargain
I need to upgrade the groupset (I want brifters) and I will get good light strong tubeless ready rims/wheels, front wheel will have a Son 28 dynamo hub, back will most probably be DT Swiss or Chris King R45 if I can find a used one within my budget and I will get my LBS to build them
I'm still undecided on the groupset, but it will be Dura Ace .... I'm looking very closely at the Dura Ace 7800 groupset, but I wish to use a 12-32 Casette and I'm not sure if the 7800 rear derailler will be suited?
I wil also be buying some Apidura bags (Tube Pack and a Frame Pack), and I'm hoping to use this bike as my daily commuter aswell as for some Audax rides. I cannot fit wide tyres,and will have to settle on 25's. Mudguards may be another problem
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I am currently using a vintage 1981 Koga Miyata Full Pro as my daily commuter .... (bought 3 weeks ago) a superb ride, light and quick and it was a bargain
I need to upgrade the groupset (I want brifters) and I will get good light strong tubeless ready rims/wheels, front wheel will have a Son 28 dynamo hub, back will most probably be DT Swiss or Chris King R45 if I can find a used one within my budget and I will get my LBS to build them
I'm still undecided on the groupset, but it will be Dura Ace .... I'm looking very closely at the Dura Ace 7800 groupset, but I wish to use a 12-32 Casette and I'm not sure if the 7800 rear derailler will be suited?
I wil also be buying some Apidura bags (Tube Pack and a Frame Pack), and I'm hoping to use this bike as my daily commuter aswell as for some Audax rides. I cannot fit wide tyres,and will have to settle on 25's. Mudguards may be another problem
What's the original group for this frame? Presumably 7sp and 126mm OLN at the back. Are you going to cold set it or just spring the back end every time to get the rear wheel in?
A clubmate has a Vitus 797 which he uses with a 11-34 mtb cassette and compact double chainset; he uses mtb mechs and finds it a very good solution.
Tyres do seem to be a problem on a few older frames. My Peugeot has mudguard fittings but won't take anything bigger than a 23 because of the problem forcing the tyre past the chainstay bridge when fitting the rear wheel (which is why I have converted to 650B for comfort). Even the 650B wheels need a bit of forcing, inspite of having cut 6mm off the rear fork-ends to make life easier (they do have 38 section tyres though)
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Good to see you're making use of the Peugeot. :thumbsup:
It seemed such a waste seeing it hanging there every time I went into the garage. When I converted the mtb back to being a real mtb rather than a utility tourer I had an excuse to do something, even if the only trips forseeable at the moment revolve around fetching the bread at week-ends.
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Currently finishing up the Kinesis 5T mentioned up thread for a mate. Looking nice and sparkly as I've cleaned everything as I've put it together. Has a slightly scratched silver 105 5600 50/34 chainset with new outer ring, Ultegra front and 105 rear mech and a sram 12-28 cassette. Also some nice old Ultegra brifters from here. Some of my wheels - 32 spoke as he's a solid 100kgs - and now waiting on me sorting the brakes and fitting cables and bar tape. Pictures will follow.
Mike
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I am currently using a vintage 1981 Koga Miyata Full Pro as my daily commuter .... (bought 3 weeks ago) a superb ride, light and quick and it was a bargain
I need to upgrade the groupset (I want brifters) and I will get good light strong tubeless ready rims/wheels, front wheel will have a Son 28 dynamo hub, back will most probably be DT Swiss or Chris King R45 if I can find a used one within my budget and I will get my LBS to build them
I'm still undecided on the groupset, but it will be Dura Ace .... I'm looking very closely at the Dura Ace 7800 groupset, but I wish to use a 12-32 Casette and I'm not sure if the 7800 rear derailler will be suited?
I wil also be buying some Apidura bags (Tube Pack and a Frame Pack), and I'm hoping to use this bike as my daily commuter aswell as for some Audax rides. I cannot fit wide tyres,and will have to settle on 25's. Mudguards may be another problem
What's the original group for this frame? Presumably 7sp and 126mm OLN at the back. Are you going to cold set it or just spring the back end every time to get the rear wheel in?
A clubmate has a Vitus 797 which he uses with a 11-34 mtb cassette and compact double chainset; he uses mtb mechs and finds it a very good solution.
Tyres do seem to be a problem on a few older frames. My Peugeot has mudguard fittings but won't take anything bigger than a 23 because of the problem forcing the tyre past the chainstay bridge when fitting the rear wheel (which is why I have converted to 650B for comfort). Even the 650B wheels need a bit of forcing, inspite of having cut 6mm off the rear fork-ends to make life easier (they do have 38 section tyres though)
I bought the frame and forks and transfered the groupset from my other Koga Miyata to this one (old 105 Golden Arrow groupset)
The original groupset on the new Miyata was the early 80's Dura Ace AX/EX 6 speed.
The OLN is 130mm and I am currently using my old Giant P-R2 wheels with a 9 speed cassette (11-28), but I will get some decent wheels and change that to a 10 speed cassette and fit the Dura Ace 7800 groupset...
by changing to 10 speed, this will allow me to occasionaly use my other wheels which I have on my Giant TCR (HED Belgium Plus with Chris King R45 hubs (ceramic bearing upgrade) ... and I will not have to change Cassettes every time I switch
On the HED wheels, I will be trying tubeless tyres for winter (2017 IRC Formula Pro RBCC in 25mm wide), and will be able to use these wheels on the Koga Miyata
still lots to do on the Koga Miyata but it fits me well, rides brilliant and I don't mind spending a fair bit of cash to get it sorted
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My daughters Condor boys bike (rather nice - its got a full 531 frame) is with me for a fettle. Two years in London has pretty much killed all the bearings. Off to source period Shimano 7 speed kit...........
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Main limitation of the Twenty is the BB shell - very wide (78mm, I think) and Raleigh-threaded. Without serious machine shop work, nothing fits except the original BB, which limits you to the original cottered cranks.
406mm BMX 20" wheels were used on US market Twenties. They drop the BB height but it's still over 10" and perfectly acceptable (actually makes it a nice town bike). Front braking is much improved if you get a new BMX fork with V-brake bosses for about £15; you can then fit a standard headset! Rear braking is always going to be an issue unless you get a hub with a coaster brake; the rear end is pretty tight but some SA 3-speed coasters will fit, as will a Sachs Duomatic. 406 wheels have a brake drop of about 100mm at the rear, and the available side-pulls in that reach are totally ineffectual.
Design fault: you can never get correct chainline with the standard BB and cranks. You want to move the sprocket outwards but then the chain fouls the seatstay! You'll need a bushingless chain and no larger than a 15T sprocket to minimise the issue.
I would also throw away the steel seatpost and get a 400mm Kalloy or something, assuming you don't actually need to make the bike as small as possible for transport. Same goes for the stem.
How bad is the ground clearance with the standard cranks and 406 rims? I checked on the weekend and it will fit in the car assuming I can remove the stem (need to undo the brake bolt and remove that cable). I've found the BMX forks with V bosses, and I've got some 406 rims kicking around, (or I could just buy some new ones), but that way a proper project lies - if it's going to mess up the crank clearance I'll stick to 451s and have to do something different with the headset.
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I stripped my fixie down because I want to get it sand blasted and then paint it. I'm going to use Spray.Bike and see if I can get a decent finish with a funky multi-colour design.
Unfortunately I was distracted by the world road race and didn't think through the order in which I should do things. I remembered that crank bolts are usually really tight, so I undid them before I removed the wheels/chain, but I didn't remove the cranks.
I ended up with this:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4338/36634427003_e990e1bbb1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XPg1PM)2017-09-25_09-32-51 (https://flic.kr/p/XPg1PM) by duncancmartin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90461577@N00/), on Flickr
The left hand crank now has a stripped thread (I screwed it in properly and it took mega power and leverage to get the pusher bolt to move) - the extractor came out with a neat spiral bit of aluminium (6 or 7 turns) in the threads. So I gave up and tried the other side, and now the extractor is stuck in that side! :( The cranks have been on there without removal since I built this bike up in 2004.
I'll have to take it to my friendly bike shop to get it sorted - the cranks were secondhand and an odd pair when I built it, plus the BCD is unusual, so if I can I'd like to keep the BB and ditch the cranks for something new. Will have to see what bits are available in the shop - might go for another secondhand set, and if they are scruffy then paint them at the same time as I do the F&F.
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I have a 1981 Koga Miyata Full Pro that I'm upgrading. I bought the frame and fork off ebay for £101.00
I had a 1983 Koga Miyata Gran Winner with the Golden Arrow groupset and transfered the components to the new frame. I sold the Gran Winner frame for £80 and will upgrade the groupset on the Full Pro to Dura Ace 7800 (10 speed), but with the Dura Ace 7900 compact crankset (50/34T)...
the 7800 rear deraillier is good for a cassette with the max of 27 teeth (according to the Shimano Specs), but many say that an 11-28 will work fine ... This will allow me to use the wheels on my Giant Tcr from time to time (Hed Belgium Plus rims with Chris King R45 hubs (ceramic bearings)... these wheels have a 10 speed cassette so there will be no faffing with changing the cassette everytime I want to use them on the Koga
the frame will be sent to Bob Jackson for a respray (original French Blue colour), with new decals fitted
a set of decent light tubeless ready wheels/tyres, some Apidura bags and I will use this bike for some Audax rides. I doubt that I will be able to fit mudguards though as thereis very little clearance by the brakes
I'm hoping to have the finished build weighing approx 8kg. It's a suberb bike and definately a keeper
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I had the Peugeot out for a test ride yesterday afternoon (as much to see if my knee was going to co-operate for a club do next saturday as to test the bike).
First thing, the front low-loaders do foul the drum brake torque arm enough to drop the front wheel by half a brake-block. The brakes are on the limit so the carriers had to come off. Mod planned to drill a couple of new holes toraise them as necessary.
On the ride it was soon very apparent that the hand strength of Goliath would be necessary to make the coupled brakes work properly in an emergency. The front drum brake slows a solo up more than it does a tandem but is a speed control rather than a stopping device. The solution (being done now) is to separate the calipers into a conventional arrangement and put the lever for the drum elsewhere (my choice is a mtb thumb shifter on the vertical part of the quill stem).
Other than that the ride was a success, very pleasant. A lot of fairly rough roads; not very quick but very comfortable.
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How bad is the ground clearance with the standard cranks and 406 rims? I checked on the weekend and it will fit in the car assuming I can remove the stem (need to undo the brake bolt and remove that cable). I've found the BMX forks with V bosses, and I've got some 406 rims kicking around, (or I could just buy some new ones), but that way a proper project lies - if it's going to mess up the crank clearance I'll stick to 451s and have to do something different with the headset.
Good enough - just over 10 inches, about he same as many road racing (but not criterium) bikes.
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Singular Peregrine returned from the bike shop having had headset cups fitted. I put together the rest of the headset, then plonked it on the wheels, and put the cockpit assembly on. Also the seatpost in, but it's a bit tight now, so I shall need a bit of patience.
I forgot to bring the copper grease from Worthing, for which I am kicking myself, but I can fettle properly once its all assembled. Next step: BB & Cranks. Then brakes, gear cable, bar tape, chain.
The JTek 11-spd lever is nice, but really quite large. I had to reset the angle because I found it clashed with my (reversed) brake lever movement. It won't be pretty up the front end, but it will certainly be functional!
The blue is so dark that it is hard to see the difference under artificial light from the black headset. :)
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I got my Raleigh 531 frame back from the blasters today. Before:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4338/36634427003_e990e1bbb1_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XPg1PM)2017-09-25_09-32-51 (https://flic.kr/p/XPg1PM) by duncancmartin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90461577@N00/), on Flickr
After:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4501/37913572126_c0c9ccf3cf_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZLhY73)IMG_20171027_152712 (https://flic.kr/p/ZLhY73) by duncancmartin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90461577@N00/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4468/37913575036_d0de5333eb_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZLhYYd)IMG_20171027_152740 (https://flic.kr/p/ZLhYYd) by duncancmartin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90461577@N00/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4471/37913572096_3396c8a7dc_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZLhY6w)IMG_20171027_152727 (https://flic.kr/p/ZLhY6w) by duncancmartin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90461577@N00/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4503/37936410062_8b87613d78_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZNj22y)IMG_20171027_152720 (https://flic.kr/p/ZNj22y) by duncancmartin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90461577@N00/), on Flickr
While I love the way that the brazing looks, the tube surface is a little rough, so it needed a primer before the main event:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4477/37968923081_fc1cce3a85_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZRbE1R)IMG_20171027_170809 (https://flic.kr/p/ZRbE1R) by duncancmartin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90461577@N00/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4504/37938530932_5c6c604910_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZNuTuh)IMG_20171027_170818 (https://flic.kr/p/ZNuTuh) by duncancmartin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90461577@N00/), on Flickr
Sanding tomorrow, hopefully followed by some of the detail spraying. :thumbsup:
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(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4504/37938530932_5c6c604910_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZNuTuh)IMG_20171027_170818 (https://flic.kr/p/ZNuTuh) by duncancmartin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90461577@N00/), on Flickr
The "Signs of Spring" thread is over there -->
:D
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(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4504/37938530932_5c6c604910_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZNuTuh)IMG_20171027_170818 (https://flic.kr/p/ZNuTuh) by duncancmartin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90461577@N00/), on Flickr
The "Signs of Spring" thread is over there -->
:D
;D I have failed to grow forks for many years, but this years crop looks OK. :thumbsup:
I sprayed it in the improvised booth in my garage (holding the steerer tube in my hand), but a stick stuck in the ground is the easiest way to hold it up while drying.
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PS
If anyone knows a good way of spraying it so that the stamped "Raleigh" on the seatstays is a different colour to the rest of the seatstay, I'd love to hear it. It shouldn't be too hard to do with a brush, but the spray.bike stuff isn't brushable.
Cheers
Duncan
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Fill the letters with some removable substance, then apply a second coat?
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I'm not sure what removable substance I can use that I can pick out without scratching the underlying paint. Someone else suggested I just spray on the dayglo stuff after I've done the base colour and then wipe the surface - so long as the wipe is flat enough it shouldn't drag the paint out of the indented letters. Not made my mind up yet.
Today I sanded it lightly, ran a tack cloth over it, and then added the dayglo bits.
First, the blue:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4472/24140838468_38a9f0dc59_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/CMf7dU)IMG_20171028_172349 (https://flic.kr/p/CMf7dU) by duncancmartin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90461577@N00/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4502/37991860921_d43d41568e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZTddCR)IMG_20171028_172400 (https://flic.kr/p/ZTddCR) by duncancmartin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90461577@N00/), on Flickr
I left it a bit and then added the orange and the pink:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4496/37961781422_8666a7bf8f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZQy43N)IMG_20171028_174647 (https://flic.kr/p/ZQy43N) by duncancmartin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90461577@N00/), on Flickr
I put pink on the inside of the chain and seatstays, and orange down the back of the seat tube.
This all looks very bright and messy, but the idea is to wait until it's all dry, and mask it all up. There will be a 1cm width line down the middle top of the top tube and one a little bigger along the middle top of the down tube. Similarly the rear triangle will get masked up with thin tape on the inside of the chain and seat stays, and chunkier tape down the middle back of the seat tube. Hopefully, it will end up being relatively neat and subtle once the plum is on everywhere that's not masked.
I have 1 remaining issue - the original head badge is knackered. There are 2 holes in the head tube that I need to fill, either with a new badge, or with a plug. I need to think about hos I should do that. I guess I could leave the holes there and just use a sticker, but I'd rather use a neat head badge. Maybe I could just paint the original with the neon and then epoxy it on (the clips came off the back of the pins that go in the holes).
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I'm not sure what removable substance I can use that I can pick out without scratching the underlying paint.
Hmm, how about some sort of wax, that can be melted out?
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I'm not sure what removable substance I can use that I can pick out without scratching the underlying paint.
Hmm, how about some sort of wax, that can be melted out?
I was originally thinking something like vaseline. Then, once the extra paint is applied, I could poke through it and clean the indented area out relatively simply. Wax is probably easier to clean away when there is overspill while applying, but I'm not sure how well the paint would react if I'm heating the frame up enough to melt the wax out.
I have some spare tubing kicking around, so I might give it a go and see how well I can wipe off one paint layer while saving the other one...
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Forks done. I need to mask up the frame and paint it tomorrow (and then clear the both of them).
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4487/26220341069_45be0d7c8b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FX16U2)IMG_20171028_212613 (https://flic.kr/p/FX16U2) by duncancmartin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90461577@N00/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4488/26220339909_e8b934e6be_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FX16y2)IMG_20171028_212609 (https://flic.kr/p/FX16y2) by duncancmartin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90461577@N00/), on Flickr
The finish isn't as smooth as I would like (nor as smooth as the primer was after sanding), but I think the masking worked out OK. I think masking the frame is going to be harder...
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I'm not sure what removable substance I can use that I can pick out without scratching the underlying paint.
Hmm, how about some sort of wax, that can be melted out?
I was originally thinking something like vaseline.
You could try blu tack or plasticine, I'm sure I've seen that on Blue Peter some decades ago, though probably not a bike frame.
I'm interested to see how the frame works out, looks OK so far.
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Play doh? Silicone sealant? Wax is the obvious one, as others have said.
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I had to add a bit more coverage in a couple of places, but after that, I masked the frame up:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4454/37304652754_9dfc00f9ff_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YQu6Ab)IMG_20171029_140330 (https://flic.kr/p/YQu6Ab) by duncancmartin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90461577@N00/), on Flickr
Including the complicated rear triangle masking:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4446/38013665061_5a1b55bf43_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZV8Yfi)IMG_20171029_140339 (https://flic.kr/p/ZV8Yfi) by duncancmartin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90461577@N00/), on Flickr
Then I hung it on the washing line and sprayed it:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4481/26237732689_b147685f08_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FYxePx)IMG_20171029_144425 (https://flic.kr/p/FYxePx) by duncancmartin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90461577@N00/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4492/26237744579_b40a4c2131_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FYximx)IMG_20171029_144441 (https://flic.kr/p/FYximx) by duncancmartin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90461577@N00/), on Flickr
I then had a great idea of lining the lugs by spraying it into a yoghurt pot and then using a brush. It seemed so simple when I was practising on a spare tube, but then I did it on the fork and screwed it up ::-) :
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4494/38013650341_a74eafcbc4_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZV8TSv)IMG_20171029_145510 (https://flic.kr/p/ZV8TSv) by duncancmartin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90461577@N00/), on Flickr
I guess I'll have to mask up the inside of the forks and re-spray the crown again. :( :-X
I'll update this when the frame comes off the washing line, and we'll see how the concept (and the masking) works. It might even mean I can change the crown colour to blue.
Blue tac is a good idea. I was thinking about having blue writing with the plum stay, but depending on how it looks when the masking tape is off, I might try having plum writing, with blue stays...
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I went to get it down earlier, and discovered that I'd missed a few bits from the back of the frame. So I took the line out of the head tube, hooked the rear dropouts over the line and sprayed all the bits I had missed earlier.
I've just got it down from the line and removed the masking tape. Well chuffed with how this has turned out:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4499/37965143756_e581753355_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZQRhy5)IMG_20171029_181156 (https://flic.kr/p/ZQRhy5) by duncancmartin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90461577@N00/), on Flickr
And this is what it looks like with the forks:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4485/37987758772_cfbdd48e55_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZSRcd9)IMG_20171029_181354 (https://flic.kr/p/ZSRcd9) by duncancmartin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90461577@N00/), on Flickr
The blue and the pink works really well with the plum, but I'm not so sure about the orange. Just as well it's only on it's own on the back of the seat tube. :)
I'd still like to pick out the shapes of the lugs and the stamped in Raleigh on the seat stays (but I don't think I want to make the whole flat surface of the stay blue or pink). I think maybe I should put the clear over it now, and think about adding details. That way I won't mess up the existing good stuff...
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Singular Peregrine returned from the bike shop having had headset cups fitted. I put together the rest of the headset, then plonked it on the wheels, and put the cockpit assembly on. Also the seatpost in, but it's a bit tight now, so I shall need a bit of patience.
I forgot to bring the copper grease from Worthing, for which I am kicking myself, but I can fettle properly once its all assembled. Next step: BB & Cranks. Then brakes, gear cable, bar tape, chain.
The JTek 11-spd lever is nice, but really quite large. I had to reset the angle because I found it clashed with my (reversed) brake lever movement. It won't be pretty up the front end, but it will certainly be functional!
The blue is so dark that it is hard to see the difference under artificial light from the black headset. :)
A frustrating week off work sick made a difference to the build!
Can't post photos here atm but it has most of the basics. Awaiting a light bracket, some cabling (electrical and gear), bar tape, mudguards and (maybe) a longer stem. :)
Lots of dark; lots of shiny! :)
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Beginning to gather bits for the Raleigh Twenty Duomatic 102 conversion, now I've got the hub working right. I have a couple of decent BMX rims and a spare Campag Record 28h front hub (nothing wrong with the present front wheel but it would have more spokes than the rear, which is Weird). Sourcing spokes is challenging and the rear may have to be built x3 just to get them long enough. Front cn be x2 as there are 182mm available in double-butted.
The object of the exercise is to lose a load of slightly troublesome cabling and get a rear brake that works. 100mm drop calipers are useless. The front has a V-brake in a BMX fork.
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I went to get it down earlier, and discovered that I'd missed a few bits from the back of the frame. So I took the line out of the head tube, hooked the rear dropouts over the line and sprayed all the bits I had missed earlier.
I've just got it down from the line and removed the masking tape. Well chuffed with how this has turned out:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4499/37965143756_e581753355_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZQRhy5)IMG_20171029_181156 (https://flic.kr/p/ZQRhy5) by duncancmartin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90461577@N00/), on Flickr
And this is what it looks like with the forks:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4485/37987758772_cfbdd48e55_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ZSRcd9)IMG_20171029_181354 (https://flic.kr/p/ZSRcd9) by duncancmartin (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90461577@N00/), on Flickr
The blue and the pink works really well with the plum, but I'm not so sure about the orange. Just as well it's only on it's own on the back of the seat tube. :)
I'd still like to pick out the shapes of the lugs and the stamped in Raleigh on the seat stays (but I don't think I want to make the whole flat surface of the stay blue or pink). I think maybe I should put the clear over it now, and think about adding details. That way I won't mess up the existing good stuff...
I quite like it, reminds me of Neapolitan ice cream
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Now that the 650B Peugeot randonneuse is pretty much a finished article (just needs the Blackburn lo-loaders sorted but there's no hurry for that) I have started on a second old and slightly barmy bitza.
I was given this mid-range Moser 51,151 frame with various bits that sort of made a bike. This 51,151 is the version in Columbus Matrix tubing not the top of the range SL version that I tracked down on the web. Since Matrix tubing was supposed to have been replaced by Cromor about 1987/8 I reckon this frame should be acceptable to the local véloretro boys as pre-87. So the idea is to build it up with pre-87 bits and use it once or twice a year for doing the local retro rallies. The search is on for the necessary bits that should be lurking in the garage, which will not necessarily what would have equipped the frame originally (it would have been a mid or entry level Campag group but that isn't going to happen).
So far a search has yielded a pair of SunTour Superbe brake levers in the parts bin. The brakes are fitted to a locally hand-built frame that I built up for the girls with straight bars and twist-grip shifters so they are being swapped for some CLB's that are also nutted (which means that I don't have to pinch the CLB levers that are on the randonneuse.
The problem with the SunTour levers is that they fit 23.8mm bars. Looking a bit has unearthed some ITT bars that are 24mm on the drops and with a bit of wriggling that bit is alright. The only problem now is that I have no ITT stem and the bar requires a 25.8mm stem. My Cinelli track bars must be 26.0 (they measure 26.1mm) and are not in use. By chance the Cinelli 1A track stem tightens down on the ITT bars, not the ideal solution but it'll do for now. Dates: stem bought in 1982 new, bars dated on Velobase as pre-87, brakes ditto.
Wheels will probably be Wolber Profil 20 sprint rims on Mavic 500 hubs, although I have options for tyres if the need arises (not to mention a good stock of mainly french-threaded freewheels and cogs).
One of the interesting features of the retro rallies in my region is that they like the paint untouched ("dans son jus" as they say) so the Moser's finish which has been matured in someone's garden for a few decades is not a problem. One of my clubmates suggested that a frame might be improved by a coat of paint at a rally this year and was told quite firmly that that was not at all the objective of the exercise.
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Three things on the go:
- The Harry Quinn track bike now has a "road" fork that can accommodate a brake. This just needs fitting, along with a bar swap (I hope to get this track/road swap down to 5 minutes with practice, since both forks have Tange Levin crown races fitted and the brake comes away with the "road" bars). It took a bit of head-scratching to bolt the brake on because the brake hole is very close to the crown race, so in the end I filed a flat on top of the little curved washer.
- The Harry Quinn winter fixie needs the front brake cabling up, bars taping and mudguards fitting.
- The Moulton TSR needs brake levers fitting, bars taping, chain fitting and cabling up. Then the front suspension needs tuning for my weight.
Oh, and I need to build another dynamo front wheel.
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The Pact is pretty much done, unless I decide I need the dynamo wheel and light to go on the Cotic. I do have a Selle Anatomica saddle to go on it to try at some point, and the bars might need adjusting a little.
Cotic is in the middle of being turned from a gravel bike into my winter commuter.
It needs a new rear brake disc adaptor, the front mudguard and a less knobbly front tyre fitting, as well as the Bagman saddlebag support. The indexing is slightly out too.
Cannondale has a clicky pressfit BB and no gear cable adjusters ::-) so if I get a spare couple of hours I'll do those all at the same time. The cranks have to come out to change the cables >:( so I'm happy to put up with it for now.
Salsa MTB is currently SS - I'd like to put a 2x10 drivetrain on there and it needs the brake hoses trimming to length. I haven't ridden it for a year though so I'm not too bothered.
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Current project is a 1982 Holdsworth Mistral bought complete for £not much and in original spec. This is a fixie conversion for a friend. Frame is full 531 double-butted in touring gauge (the last year before they started calling it 531ST). 27" wheels have Wolber Super Champion alloy rims and Campag hubs so will do for the time being. Hub bearings a bit rust pitted but run ok after an overhaul. Wheels trued, rear wheel respaced and redished too. Frameset off for powdercoating in what I hope will be a sort of Wedgwood blue. Came with a good B17 leather saddle and I had a 27.2mm seatpost (the original was too short for a 6'2" rider). I also had better bars and brake levers kicking around, and even an unused Tange Passage headset. RH crank had an worrying-looking notch in the back so went in the bin. I bought a pair of Shimano 300EX cranks for £3.50 on fleaBay and I had a 42T ring, chain and 3/32" 16T track sprocket anyway.
The brakes are Weinmann 999 centre-pulls and in very good condition. New brake pads, cables and tyres, obviously. I'm keeping a rear brake on because the hub obviously doesn't have a lockring thread; I fitted the sprocket with a 2 foot chainwhip and threadlock, so it's vanishingly unlikely to unscrew itself under the meagre torque that can be applied through a bike chain, but you never know.
The Mistral was Holdsworth's most expensive bike and was pretty well-specified. This is the first s/h steel frame I've bought that is actually straight at the rear!