Author Topic: Current Projects  (Read 15565 times)

dim

Re: Current Projects
« Reply #50 on: 25 September, 2017, 11:56:52 am »
I have a 1981 Koga Miyata Full Pro that I'm upgrading. I bought the frame and fork off ebay for £101.00

I had a 1983 Koga Miyata Gran Winner with the Golden Arrow groupset and transfered the components to the new frame. I sold the Gran Winner frame for £80 and will upgrade the groupset on the Full Pro to Dura Ace 7800 (10 speed), but with the Dura Ace 7900 compact crankset (50/34T)...

the 7800 rear deraillier is good for a cassette with the max of 27 teeth (according to the Shimano Specs), but many say that an 11-28 will work fine ... This will allow me to use the wheels on my Giant Tcr from time to time (Hed Belgium Plus rims with Chris King R45 hubs (ceramic bearings)... these wheels have a 10 speed cassette so there will be no faffing with changing the cassette everytime I want to use them on the Koga

the frame will be sent to Bob Jackson for a respray (original French Blue colour), with new decals fitted

a set of decent light tubeless ready wheels/tyres, some Apidura bags and I will use this bike for some Audax rides. I doubt that I will be able to fit mudguards though as thereis very little clearance by the brakes

I'm hoping to have the finished build weighing approx 8kg. It's a suberb bike and definately a keeper
“No great mind has ever existed without a touch of madness.” - Aristotle

Re: Current Projects
« Reply #51 on: 25 September, 2017, 09:19:01 pm »
I had the Peugeot out for a test ride yesterday afternoon (as much to see if my knee was going to co-operate for a club do next saturday as to test the bike).
First thing, the front low-loaders do foul the drum brake torque arm enough to drop the front wheel by half a brake-block. The brakes are on the limit so the carriers had to come off. Mod planned to drill a couple of new holes toraise them as necessary.
On the ride it was soon very apparent that the hand strength of Goliath would be necessary to make the coupled brakes work properly in an emergency. The front drum brake slows a solo up more than it does a tandem but is a speed control rather than a stopping device. The solution (being done now) is to separate the calipers into a conventional arrangement and put the lever for the drum elsewhere (my choice is a mtb thumb shifter on the vertical part of the quill stem).
Other than that the ride was a success, very pleasant. A lot of fairly rough roads; not very quick but very comfortable.

rogerzilla

  • When n+1 gets out of hand
Re: Current Projects
« Reply #52 on: 25 September, 2017, 10:03:53 pm »
How bad is the ground clearance with the standard cranks and 406 rims? I checked on the weekend and it will fit in the car assuming I can remove the stem (need to undo the brake bolt and remove that cable). I've found the BMX forks with V bosses, and I've got some 406 rims kicking around, (or I could just buy some new ones), but that way a proper project lies - if it's going to mess up the crank clearance I'll stick to 451s and have to do something different with the headset.
Good enough - just over 10 inches, about he same as many road racing (but not criterium) bikes.
Hard work sometimes pays off in the end, but laziness ALWAYS pays off NOW.

clarion

  • Tyke
Re: Current Projects
« Reply #53 on: 20 October, 2017, 10:45:32 am »
Singular Peregrine returned from the bike shop having had headset cups fitted.  I put together the rest of the headset, then plonked it on the wheels, and put the cockpit assembly on.  Also the seatpost in, but it's a bit tight now, so I shall need a bit of patience.

I forgot to bring the copper grease from Worthing, for which I am kicking myself, but I can fettle properly once its all assembled.  Next step: BB & Cranks.  Then brakes, gear cable, bar tape, chain.

The JTek 11-spd lever is nice, but really quite large.  I had to reset the angle because I found it clashed with my (reversed) brake lever movement.  It won't be pretty up the front end, but it will certainly be functional!

The blue is so dark that it is hard to see the difference under artificial light from the black headset. :)
Getting there...

Re: Current Projects
« Reply #54 on: 27 October, 2017, 05:22:20 pm »
I got my Raleigh 531 frame back from the blasters today. Before:
2017-09-25_09-32-51 by duncancmartin, on Flickr
After:
IMG_20171027_152712 by duncancmartin, on Flickr
IMG_20171027_152740 by duncancmartin, on Flickr
IMG_20171027_152727 by duncancmartin, on Flickr
IMG_20171027_152720 by duncancmartin, on Flickr

While I love the way that the brazing looks, the tube surface is a little rough, so it needed a primer before the main event:
IMG_20171027_170809 by duncancmartin, on Flickr
IMG_20171027_170818 by duncancmartin, on Flickr

Sanding tomorrow, hopefully followed by some of the detail spraying.  :thumbsup:

Kim

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Re: Current Projects
« Reply #55 on: 27 October, 2017, 05:39:54 pm »
IMG_20171027_170818 by duncancmartin, on Flickr

The "Signs of Spring" thread is over there -->

 :D

Re: Current Projects
« Reply #56 on: 27 October, 2017, 05:43:09 pm »
IMG_20171027_170818 by duncancmartin, on Flickr

The "Signs of Spring" thread is over there -->

 :D
;D I have failed to grow forks for many years, but this years crop looks OK.  :thumbsup:
I sprayed it in the improvised booth in my garage (holding the steerer tube in my hand), but a stick stuck in the ground is the easiest way to hold it up while drying.

Re: Current Projects
« Reply #57 on: 27 October, 2017, 08:59:52 pm »
PS
If anyone knows a good way of spraying it so that the stamped "Raleigh" on the seatstays is a different colour to the rest of the seatstay, I'd love to hear it. It shouldn't be too hard to do with a brush, but the spray.bike stuff isn't brushable.
Cheers
Duncan

Kim

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Re: Current Projects
« Reply #58 on: 27 October, 2017, 09:15:15 pm »
Fill the letters with some removable substance, then apply a second coat?

Re: Current Projects
« Reply #59 on: 28 October, 2017, 06:09:51 pm »
I'm not sure what removable substance I can use that I can pick out without scratching the underlying paint. Someone else suggested I just spray on the dayglo stuff after I've done the base colour and then wipe the surface - so long as the wipe is flat enough it shouldn't drag the paint out of the indented letters. Not made my mind up yet.

Today I sanded it lightly, ran a tack cloth over it, and then added the dayglo bits.
First, the blue:
IMG_20171028_172349 by duncancmartin, on Flickr
IMG_20171028_172400 by duncancmartin, on Flickr

I left it a bit and then added the orange and the pink:
IMG_20171028_174647 by duncancmartin, on Flickr

I put pink on the inside of the chain and seatstays, and orange down the back of the seat tube.
This all looks very bright and messy, but the idea is to wait until it's all dry, and mask it all up. There will be a 1cm width line down the middle top of the top tube and one a little bigger along the middle top of the down tube. Similarly the rear triangle will get masked up with thin tape on the inside of the chain and seat stays, and chunkier tape down the middle back of the seat tube. Hopefully, it will end up being relatively neat and subtle once the plum is on everywhere that's not masked.

I have 1 remaining issue - the original head badge is knackered. There are 2 holes in the head tube that I need to fill, either with a new badge, or with a plug. I need to think about hos I should do that. I guess I could leave the holes there and just use a sticker, but I'd rather use a neat head badge.  Maybe I could just paint the original with the neon and then epoxy it on (the clips came off the back of the pins that go in the holes).

Kim

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Re: Current Projects
« Reply #60 on: 28 October, 2017, 06:32:30 pm »
I'm not sure what removable substance I can use that I can pick out without scratching the underlying paint.

Hmm, how about some sort of wax, that can be melted out?

Re: Current Projects
« Reply #61 on: 28 October, 2017, 06:39:13 pm »
I'm not sure what removable substance I can use that I can pick out without scratching the underlying paint.

Hmm, how about some sort of wax, that can be melted out?
I was originally thinking something like vaseline. Then, once the extra paint is applied, I could poke through it and clean the indented area out relatively simply. Wax is probably easier to clean away when there is overspill while applying, but I'm not sure how well the paint would react if I'm heating the frame up enough to melt the wax out.
I have some spare tubing kicking around, so I might give it a go and see how well I can wipe off one paint layer while saving the other one...

Re: Current Projects
« Reply #62 on: 28 October, 2017, 09:36:28 pm »
Forks done. I need to mask up the frame and paint it tomorrow (and then clear the both of them).
IMG_20171028_212613 by duncancmartin, on Flickr
IMG_20171028_212609 by duncancmartin, on Flickr

The finish isn't as smooth as I would like (nor as smooth as the primer was after sanding), but I think the masking worked out OK. I think masking the frame is going to be harder...

Re: Current Projects
« Reply #63 on: 28 October, 2017, 10:51:19 pm »
I'm not sure what removable substance I can use that I can pick out without scratching the underlying paint.

Hmm, how about some sort of wax, that can be melted out?
I was originally thinking something like vaseline.
You could try blu tack or plasticine, I'm sure I've seen that on Blue Peter some decades ago, though probably not a bike frame.
I'm interested to see how the frame works out, looks OK so far.

Re: Current Projects
« Reply #64 on: 28 October, 2017, 11:43:21 pm »
Play doh? Silicone sealant? Wax is the obvious one, as others have said.

Re: Current Projects
« Reply #65 on: 29 October, 2017, 03:13:33 pm »
I had to add a bit more coverage in a couple of places, but after that, I masked the frame up:
IMG_20171029_140330 by duncancmartin, on Flickr
Including the complicated rear triangle masking:
IMG_20171029_140339 by duncancmartin, on Flickr
Then I hung it on the washing line and sprayed it:
IMG_20171029_144425 by duncancmartin, on Flickr
IMG_20171029_144441 by duncancmartin, on Flickr

I then had a great idea of lining the lugs by spraying it into a yoghurt pot and then using a brush. It seemed so simple when I was practising on a spare tube, but then I did it on the fork and screwed it up  ::-) :
IMG_20171029_145510 by duncancmartin, on Flickr
I guess I'll have to mask up the inside of the forks and re-spray the crown again. :(  :-X
I'll update this when the frame comes off the washing line, and we'll see how the concept (and the masking) works. It might even mean I can change the crown colour to blue.

Blue tac is a good idea. I was thinking about having blue writing with the plum stay, but depending on how it looks when the masking tape is off, I might try having plum writing, with blue stays...

Re: Current Projects
« Reply #66 on: 29 October, 2017, 06:49:08 pm »
I went to get it down earlier, and discovered that I'd missed a few bits from the back of the frame. So I took the line out of the head tube, hooked the rear dropouts over the line and sprayed all the bits I had missed earlier.
I've just got it down from the line and removed the masking tape. Well chuffed with how this has turned out:
IMG_20171029_181156 by duncancmartin, on Flickr
And this is what it looks like with the forks:
IMG_20171029_181354 by duncancmartin, on Flickr
The blue and the pink works really well with the plum, but I'm not so sure about the orange.  Just as well it's only on it's own on the back of the seat tube. :)
I'd still like to pick out the shapes of the lugs and the stamped in Raleigh on the seat stays (but I don't think I want to make the whole flat surface of the stay blue or pink). I think maybe I should put the clear over it now, and think about adding details. That way I won't mess up the existing good stuff...

clarion

  • Tyke
Re: Current Projects
« Reply #67 on: 30 October, 2017, 10:56:17 am »
Singular Peregrine returned from the bike shop having had headset cups fitted.  I put together the rest of the headset, then plonked it on the wheels, and put the cockpit assembly on.  Also the seatpost in, but it's a bit tight now, so I shall need a bit of patience.

I forgot to bring the copper grease from Worthing, for which I am kicking myself, but I can fettle properly once its all assembled.  Next step: BB & Cranks.  Then brakes, gear cable, bar tape, chain.

The JTek 11-spd lever is nice, but really quite large.  I had to reset the angle because I found it clashed with my (reversed) brake lever movement.  It won't be pretty up the front end, but it will certainly be functional!

The blue is so dark that it is hard to see the difference under artificial light from the black headset. :)
A frustrating week off work sick made a difference to the build!

Can't post photos here atm but it has most of the basics.  Awaiting a light bracket, some cabling (electrical and gear), bar tape, mudguards and (maybe) a longer stem. :)

Lots of dark; lots of shiny! :)
Getting there...

rogerzilla

  • When n+1 gets out of hand
Re: Current Projects
« Reply #68 on: 06 May, 2018, 06:05:25 pm »
Beginning to gather bits for the Raleigh Twenty Duomatic 102 conversion, now I've got the hub working right.  I have a couple of decent BMX rims and a spare Campag Record 28h front hub (nothing wrong with the present front wheel but it would have more spokes than the rear, which is Weird).  Sourcing spokes is challenging and the rear may have to be built x3 just to get them long enough.  Front cn be x2 as there are 182mm available in double-butted.

The object of the exercise is to lose a load of slightly troublesome cabling and get a rear brake that works.  100mm drop calipers are useless.  The front has a V-brake in a BMX fork.
Hard work sometimes pays off in the end, but laziness ALWAYS pays off NOW.

ElyDave

  • Royal and Ancient Polar Bear Society member 263583
Re: Current Projects
« Reply #69 on: 06 May, 2018, 10:08:28 pm »
I went to get it down earlier, and discovered that I'd missed a few bits from the back of the frame. So I took the line out of the head tube, hooked the rear dropouts over the line and sprayed all the bits I had missed earlier.
I've just got it down from the line and removed the masking tape. Well chuffed with how this has turned out:
IMG_20171029_181156 by duncancmartin, on Flickr
And this is what it looks like with the forks:
IMG_20171029_181354 by duncancmartin, on Flickr
The blue and the pink works really well with the plum, but I'm not so sure about the orange.  Just as well it's only on it's own on the back of the seat tube. :)
I'd still like to pick out the shapes of the lugs and the stamped in Raleigh on the seat stays (but I don't think I want to make the whole flat surface of the stay blue or pink). I think maybe I should put the clear over it now, and think about adding details. That way I won't mess up the existing good stuff...

I quite like it, reminds me of Neapolitan ice cream
“Procrastination is the thief of time, collar him.” –Charles Dickens

Re: Current Projects
« Reply #70 on: 10 June, 2018, 08:43:56 pm »
Now that the 650B Peugeot randonneuse is pretty much a finished article (just needs the Blackburn lo-loaders sorted but there's no hurry for that) I have started on a second old and slightly barmy bitza.

 I was given this mid-range Moser 51,151 frame with various bits that sort of made a bike. This 51,151 is the version in Columbus Matrix tubing not the top of the range SL version that I tracked down on the web. Since Matrix tubing was supposed to have been replaced by Cromor about 1987/8 I reckon this frame should be acceptable to the local véloretro boys as pre-87. So the idea is to build it up with pre-87 bits and use it once or twice a year for doing the local retro rallies. The search is on for the necessary bits that should be lurking in the garage, which will not necessarily what would have equipped the frame originally (it would have been a mid or entry level Campag group but that isn't going to happen).

So far a search has yielded a pair of SunTour Superbe brake levers in the parts bin. The brakes are fitted to a locally hand-built frame that I built up for the girls with straight bars and twist-grip shifters so they are being swapped for some CLB's that are also nutted (which means that I don't have to pinch the CLB levers that are on the randonneuse.
The problem with the SunTour levers is that they fit 23.8mm bars. Looking a bit has unearthed some ITT bars that are 24mm on the drops and with a bit of wriggling that bit is alright. The only problem now is that I have no ITT stem and the bar requires a 25.8mm stem. My Cinelli track bars must be 26.0 (they measure 26.1mm) and are not in use. By chance the Cinelli 1A track stem tightens down on the ITT bars, not the ideal solution but it'll do for now. Dates: stem bought in 1982 new, bars dated on Velobase as pre-87, brakes ditto.

Wheels will probably be Wolber Profil 20 sprint rims on Mavic 500 hubs, although I have options for tyres if the need arises (not to mention a good stock of mainly french-threaded freewheels and cogs).

One of the interesting features of the retro rallies in my region is that they like the paint untouched ("dans son jus" as they say) so the Moser's finish which has been matured in someone's garden for a few decades is not a problem. One of my clubmates suggested that a frame might be improved by a coat of paint at a rally this year and was told quite firmly that that was not at all the objective of the exercise.

rogerzilla

  • When n+1 gets out of hand
Re: Current Projects
« Reply #71 on: 08 October, 2018, 07:33:47 am »
Three things on the go:

- The Harry Quinn track bike now has a "road" fork that can accommodate a brake.  This just needs fitting, along with a bar swap (I hope to get this track/road swap down to 5 minutes with practice, since both forks have Tange Levin crown races fitted and the brake comes away with the "road" bars).  It took a bit of head-scratching to bolt the brake on because the brake hole is very close to the crown race, so in the end I filed a flat on top of the little curved washer.

- The Harry Quinn winter fixie needs the front brake cabling up, bars taping and mudguards fitting.

- The Moulton TSR needs brake levers fitting, bars taping, chain fitting and cabling up. Then the front suspension needs tuning for my weight.

Oh, and I need to build another dynamo front wheel.
Hard work sometimes pays off in the end, but laziness ALWAYS pays off NOW.

Chris N

Re: Current Projects
« Reply #72 on: 08 October, 2018, 08:04:27 am »
The Pact is pretty much done, unless I decide I need the dynamo wheel and light to go on the Cotic.  I do have a Selle Anatomica saddle to go on it to try at some point, and the bars might need adjusting a little.

Cotic is in the middle of being turned from a gravel bike into my winter commuter.
 It needs a new rear brake disc adaptor, the front mudguard and a less knobbly front tyre fitting, as well as the Bagman saddlebag support.  The indexing is slightly out too.

Cannondale has a clicky pressfit BB and no gear cable adjusters ::-) so if I get a spare couple of hours I'll do those all at the same time.  The cranks have to come out to change the cables >:( so I'm happy to put up with it for now.

Salsa MTB is currently SS - I'd like to put a 2x10 drivetrain on there and it needs the brake hoses trimming to length.  I haven't ridden it for a year though so I'm not too bothered.

rogerzilla

  • When n+1 gets out of hand
Re: Current Projects
« Reply #73 on: 27 January, 2019, 09:22:32 pm »
Current project is a 1982 Holdsworth Mistral bought complete for £not much and in original spec.  This is a fixie conversion for a friend.  Frame is full 531 double-butted in touring gauge (the last year before they started calling it 531ST).  27" wheels have Wolber Super Champion alloy rims and Campag hubs so will do for the time being.  Hub bearings a bit rust pitted  but run ok after an overhaul.  Wheels trued, rear wheel respaced and redished too.  Frameset off for powdercoating in what I hope will be a sort of Wedgwood blue.    Came with a good B17 leather saddle and I had a 27.2mm seatpost (the original was too short for a 6'2" rider).  I also had better bars and brake levers kicking around, and even an unused Tange Passage headset.  RH crank had an worrying-looking notch in the back so went in the bin.  I bought a pair of Shimano 300EX cranks for £3.50 on fleaBay and I had a 42T ring, chain and 3/32" 16T track sprocket anyway.

The brakes are Weinmann 999 centre-pulls and in very good condition.  New brake pads, cables and tyres, obviously.  I'm keeping a rear brake on because the hub obviously doesn't have a lockring thread; I fitted the sprocket with a 2 foot chainwhip and threadlock, so it's vanishingly unlikely to unscrew itself under the meagre torque that can be applied through a bike chain, but you never know.

The Mistral was Holdsworth's most expensive bike and was pretty well-specified.  This is the first s/h steel frame I've bought that is actually straight at the rear!
Hard work sometimes pays off in the end, but laziness ALWAYS pays off NOW.