Soil pipe joint

[rogerzilla]

I need to pull a 35 year-old pipe out of the soil stack tee and replace it with a nice new one when I change the toilet, because the old one has been badly painted - you can get white ones now - and the toilet connections are all sealed with mastic or putty - nothing in this bathroom was installed properly by the housebuilders.  There's also not much fall (ok, zero) between the pan outlet and the stack but the new chodbin has the same 180mm outlet height as the old one, so it should work as it did before.

Anyway, are the O-rings in these soil tees universal?  I doubt the original is much cop.  I did the same job in the last house but that pipe had only been in situ for 21 years.

[robgul]

I need to pull a 35 year-old pipe out of the soil stack tee and replace it with a nice new one when I change the toilet, because the old one has been badly painted - you can get white ones now - and the toilet connections are all sealed with mastic or putty - nothing in this bathroom was installed properly by the housebuilders.  There's also not much fall (ok, zero) between the pan outlet and the stack but the new chodbin has the same 180mm outlet height as the old one, so it should work as it did before.

Anyway, are the O-rings in these soil tees universal?  I doubt the original is much cop.  I did the same job in the last house but that pipe had only been in situ for 21 years.

From experience yes - I replaced a toilet in similar fashion recently with no issues.  Do not be tempted by the "flexible pan connectors"  DAHIKT - they sag with unfortunate results as the seal into the soil pipe relaxes and opens up - whoever fitted the previous toilet needs shooting.

[Blodwyn Pig]

From memory, Wickes do a White pan connector, with an ‘internal’ seal . Cut the existing soil pipe off at the wall, flush……badoomshh! Then measure the new connector so it reaches the wal, then slide the fitting on the end ‘over the pipe’ then slide the whole thing into the pipe in the wall, , then fit pan.

I wouldn’t personally try and pull the old one out of the stack and then hope to get another one in, and it seal properly. Sometime the joints crack and then you are in a pickle, and will have to renew the whole stack, especially a pain if there are more outlets further up the pipe.

https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=DChcSEwjTs6W-ireFAxV6CQYAHdOEBSYYABAOGgJ3cw&gclid=CjwKCAjw8diwBhAbEiwA7i_sJZ9fmp95QBasUXc4sToj2660_KWRXAEix1GC6TmHcRZFALR2cLNoURoCtE4QAvD_BwE&sig=AOD64_1DxnWdmIOVwdf5y_tgsZu8E3301w&ctype=46&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjjtp--ireFAxV91AIHHfcdBdgQ5bgDKAB6BAgEEFI&adurl=

This sort of thing, there are flexi ones, cranked ones, and 90 deg ones.

[Asterix, the former Gaul.]

.. Do not be tempted by the "flexible pan connectors" DAHIKT - they sag with unfortunate results as the seal into the soil pipe relaxes and opens up - whoever fitted the previous toilet needs shooting.

Our bathroom toilet has one of those, fitted by the installer.  It can't cope with heavy traffice very well.  Unfortunately it is buried behind fancy panelling.  The showroom who sold us the bathroom has gone bust otherwise I would shoot someone..

Now I have sacrificed part of the garage to build a lovely downstairs toilet flushing directly run into the drain.  It's a real tour de force. 

[robgul]

.. Do not be tempted by the "flexible pan connectors" DAHIKT - they sag with unfortunate results as the seal into the soil pipe relaxes and opens up - whoever fitted the previous toilet needs shooting.

Our bathroom toilet has one of those, fitted by the installer.  It can't cope with heavy traffice very well.  Unfortunately it is buried behind fancy panelling.  The showroom who sold us the bathroom has gone bust otherwise I would shoot someone..

Now I have sacrificed part of the garage to build a lovely downstairs toilet flushing directly run into the drain.  It's a real tour de force.

The toilet I replaced had a sagging flexible that had "unsealed" - it took a while to work out where the smell was coming from (initial candidate was the shower trap being "sucked" and breaking the water seal)  Once I found the issue I propped up the flexible with blocks of wood (it was inside some cabinetry so not visible)   

The cabinet stuff was removed when I refitted the shower room with a vanity/sink from IKEA, a comfort level pan/cistern with solid pipe and a floating shelf on the wall above.

[IanDG]

OT - I got a comment pulled and a strike against my name on FB. Reason was inciting violence/hatred. Comment was "Whoever designed that cycling lane should be shot".

[Mr Larrington]

Even more OT: my grate frend Al got Zuckernicked for using “shoot” as a minced oath.  Now I come to think of it, perhaps this isn’t OT after all

[rogerzilla]

It's probably not calibrated for "arsebuckets" or "big fat elephant's fanny".

[T42]

OT - I got a comment pulled and a strike against my name on FB. Reason was inciting violence/hatred. Comment was "Whoever designed that cycling lane should be shot".

If you'd put drawn and quartered it'd've probably been OK. Or just changed the vowel to an A.

[rogerzilla]

Took the side of the bath off to investigate.

Toilet pan end is siliconed and solvent welded.  None of that is reusable

20240427_113718 by rogerzilla, on Flickr

Soil pipe end is the usual ring seal push fit.

20240427_113755 by rogerzilla, on Flickr

So it's going to have to come out of the soil pipe.  Lots of silicone lubricant will be employed.  The word is that these often leak if disturbed after many years, so that brings me back to my original question - is there any way to renew the rubber ring seal in these?  It's not easy to replace the whole tee due to the bath and basin connections, although there are no further connections above this.  People seem to use sealant and/or self-amalgamating tape in the event of leaks - it is all very accessible once the shelf at the back of the bath has been ripped out, which it will be.

[robgul]

Having done quite a bit of soil pipe plumbing/re-using I'd be reasonably confident in re-using the T as is - there are lots of makes and even finding a replacement seal would be difficult - and fitting into the slot in the T even more of a challenge.

I'd work on the basis of your new pipe being long enough to go right up to the hilt in the T - AND make sure to put a nice smooth chamfer on the end of the new pipe to slide easily past the rubber seal - washing up liquid works pretty well if you don't have the silicone (or other  ) lube.     If there is any leakage there are quite a few good sealants for the T fitting.

[Von Broad]

The word is that these often leak if disturbed after many years, so that brings me back to my original question - is there any way to renew the rubber ring seal in these?

Personally, I'd be pretty confident that [with some silicone spray] the existing soil pipe with come out [gently twist first] without issue and a new one with go in just fine and dandy.
Most important thing is to make sure your new length of soil pipe has a chamfer on it, and not a newly sawn edge so not to potentially damage the rubber seal. Again, plenty of washing-up liquid silicone on there and you'll be good to go....in a manner of speaking!

edit: opps sorry, didn't read Robgul's reply before posting....no harm in repetition sometimes!

[rogerzilla]

The new pipe is chamfered - it's a white one from Wickes with a chamfer on one end and a ring seal socket on the other to take the swan neck 90 deg Multikwik adaptor from the pan.  It should be just the right length, either by luck or by housebuilder's design.