Hub questions

[fd3]

I have a bike with mtb rear hub spacing.  Very limited (double fixed) hub selection in that size.  I am thinking of respacing the rear (and eventually getting a custom frame) so wonder what would be the optimal spacing?  I think a wider hub should make a marginally stronger wheel, but I don't use low spoke counts and don't carry heavy loads. 
Also, it seems easiest to get hubs in 120/track spacing, but I expect those are mostly for indoor track riding, so am I simply looking at goldtec hubs, or which is the best option?  I figure the type of hub will probably decide the spacing required.

[Pickled Onion]

120 mm hubs can often be respaced for wider dropouts, you need to check if it comes with a long enough axle, or if the axle can be changed. Also, you are right that ones for indoor use may not have seals suitable for all weather riding, so check that too.

If you want double-sided, don't worry about the difference between fixed/fixed and fixed/free. Not using a lock ring probably saved me from a lot of grief recently when I lost a side-plate from the chain, causing the chain to unship the wrong side of the cog.

You ask for the "best option", that is almost certainly goldtec. But note it is the same hub at the different widths, they are just fitted with different spacers on the axle, so it won't make any difference in the wheel strength. They do sell the spacing kits separately (fairly pricey tho), so you can easily switch it to your custom frame when you get it.

[marcusjb]

The Velo Orange fixed/fixed hub I have came with spacers.

So far, it's been very reliable in all weathers. New bearings at just under 14000km.

Wasn't ever so expensive, around £50.

[fd3]

For "best option" if I am spending (ouch) £100 on a rear hub I could get a Paul components hub for about the same; and if I'm selling a bike to fund a new rear wheel then Phil wood is only a VO hub's worth more expensive.  If I'm investing in a top price hub, how long is a piece of string?

[rogerzilla]

On-One do a 135mm rear hub, I think, if the HT2 chainline works for you.  My 135mm Goldtec crumbled (see below) in its third winter and they wouldn't even give me a free replacement.  They offered a free wheelbuild if I bought another hub.  Whoopee shit.

[fd3]

Cheers for that roger, I found your previous post on goldtec hubs in a prev Google search.  I currently run some (10 year old) on one hubs, I'm thinking about possible upgrade for n+1 hence thinking of any possible hub width.  What do you run?

[PaulF]

The Surly is 135mm I think? http://surlybikes.com/parts/wheels/hubs and pretty bomb proof. I've been running one for years on my singlespeed MTB and all it's needed is a change of bearings

[fd3]

Taking a step back to ask what should be an obvious question: what makes a good hub (what makes a 200 quid hub better than a 25 quid one)? Is it a matter of bearings, axle, durability and weight?

[Kim]

A really noisy freewheel, surely? 

[PaulF]

A really noisy freewheel, surely? 

Exactly! The rest is just window dressing

[fd3]

A really noisy freewheel, surely? 

So na for fixed gears?

[rogerzilla]

You don't really get what you pay for in fixed hubs.  Bling, maybe.  Boutique hubs usually employ pressed-in cartridge bearings and the difference between really fantastic sealed bearings and crap ones is about a fiver per hub, so you're not paying for smoother running.  All other things being equal, try to get a hub with a forged shell, since these are a lot less likely to crack.  CNC machining from billet is not the best way to make a hub, although it suits a small operation.

Generally, though, there;s little choice once you've been constrained by rear spacing, preferred flange size and chainline.  That's why I ended up with an SA 3-speed coaster hub after the Goldtec failed - all other fixed hubs in 135mm had a wider chainline* and I didn't want to buy a new BB (in fact, I also re-used the spokes sas the SRC3 happens to use the same lengths as the Goldtec).  I don't understand why someone can't make a fixed hub with very deep threads and spacers to allow easy fiddling with the chainline.  You can get a bit of adjustment by choosing a different make of sprocket but we're talking about 1-2mm. A symmetrical fixed wheel doesn't need widely-spaced flanges for strength, so there is plenty of room.

* they assume you need the heel and chainring-chainstay clearance as you're probably on an MTB frame

[Bowedw]

If you have a older wheel with a screw on block you can buy an alloy adapter that will space your fixed cog in a position that will match your bikes chain line. Look on Ebay. You can either just screw it on or bond it on with thread lock of various grades. with the nut lock grade you will never be able to remove it.
There are also adapters for cassette type wheels, probably for a 130 frame but a 2mm washer spacer each side would probably work. chain line would be there or there about and be considerably straighter than derailleur gears chain.
Probably will accept a freewheel but one or other not both on the same wheel. Who needs a freewheel anyway on a fixie.