Yet Another Cycling Forum
General Category => The Knowledge => Topic started by: Kim on 22 January, 2015, 05:58:07 pm
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A newbie question that I've been failing to get round to asking for a while. In my defence, I'm more inclined towards the software and soldering iron end of the engineering spectrum, and only pretend to know what I'm doing with a spanner.
So yeah: grease. I understand that it tends to be used for one of three main functions: To lubricate moving parts so they run smoothly with less wear; to protect things from corrosion; and to encourage parts to fit together more consistently and/or eventually come apart with lesser degrees of Persuasion.
Supplemental to that, I'm aware that in comes in all sorts of flavours, the subtleties of which may or may not be important for a given application. Thermal grease I understand. Copper grease to prevent parts from seizing makes sense (indeed, I've got a tube of it somewhere, which I use as a talisman to ward off stuck pedals and freewheels). That high-speed moving parts are going to make specific demands in terms of temperature stability and viscosity makes sense, as does the fact that you don't get such high speed moving parts on pedal cycles. I can imagine gear hubs are quite fussy about viscosity, though. I'm also vaguely aware that some recipes are better for keeping water out of stuff (which *does* seem desirable on a bike), that some may not get on with certain plastics, that lithium is what you need for manic-depressive bearings, and I read on a newsgroup that the there's this stuff called molybdenum disulfide that when applied to your chain will allow you to climb hills like Lance Armstrong.
Up until now, I've been lubricating my mechanical bits (chiefly screw threads, but also the odd headset bearing, suspension part or brake pivot) with a small tub of "bicycle grease"[1] that was cheap on Wiggle when I didn't really know what I was doing. It's almost run out, so I probably ought to invest in something else.
So, what do I need, guys? (Answers of the style "get a litre of this from your local chandler for a fiver and use it for everything except hub gears, and it should last you until you're getting birthday cards from the queen" strongly preferred.)
[1] It's white, and tastes bad.
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... I read on a newsgroup that the there's this stuff called molybdenum disulphide ...
FTFY
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Most of the time, the type of grease doesn't matter very much. It is basically just oil mixed into soap to stop it from running away from where the oil is needed. If you have high temperatures (coaster brake) or very high loads, then you need something fancier.
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Molybdenum disulphide grease is also handy if you ever work with clock mainsprings.
Aside from that it probably won't help much to just say "Grease is the word that you heard"
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I use Castrol LM for 'general' use. Not sure why that particular one other than it is readily available, is relatively cheap and seems to work OK.
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... I read on a newsgroup that the there's this stuff called molybdenum disulphide ...
FTFY
That too.
AIUI we agreed under international treaty to spell sulphur incorrectly in exchange for the USAnians accepting that it's 'aluminium', which seems like a worthy sacrifice. :D
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Referring back to the other thread, I had a flatmate who lubricated the squeaky hamster wheel her pet rat used to run round in, with cooking oil. Worked perfectly.
Might not be recommended for bikes though, not even chains.
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.... is The Word
- according to Mr Travolta and Miss Newton-John
IGMC
Rob
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Referring back to the other thread, I had a flatmate who lubricated the squeaky hamster wheel her pet rat used to run round in, with cooking oil. Worked perfectly.
Also recommended for bread machine paddles.
(Friend of mine had gerbils that would lick all the oil off their wheel bearing, with digestive consequences.)
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Possible digestive consequences were her reason for not using a more usually greasy form of grease.
(Rat was called Jagger; big lips, couldn't sing)
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This http://forum.ctc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=42374#p341163
contains all of the most informed discussion I've ever seen on this topic.
The outcome was a group buy of something that only came in 10kg tubs (or simlar); "colin" agreed to sell it on in senmsible sized bottles. Or something.
Are you busy, Kim?
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... I read on a newsgroup that the there's this stuff called molybdenum disulphide ...
FTFY
That too.
AIUI we agreed under international treaty to spell sulphur incorrectly in exchange for the USAnians accepting that it's 'aluminium', which seems like a worthy sacrifice. :D
Yup - but when they make it fosforus I quit chemistry ;)
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This http://forum.ctc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=42374#p341163
contains all of the most informed discussion I've ever seen on this topic.
The outcome was a group buy of something that only came in 10kg tubs (or simlar); "colin" agreed to sell it on in senmsible sized bottles. Or something.
Are you busy, Kim?
The one CJ recommends costs £867.23 for a 50kg barrel. http://www.lubrishop.co.uk/mobilith-shc-1500-50kg-414-p.asp
Ho humm.
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I don't think the type of grease matters much for short service intervals, but some Any Old greases I've used have dried up or separated within two or three years.
Campag grease has been the best in my experience. Some say it's water pump grease (though I've yet to buy water pump grease to compare for myself).
I've also used Finish Line Premium in headsets to minimise drag and be seal-friendly.
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My preference for general purpose lube requiring grease is Weldtite TF2 (http://weldtite.co.uk/products/detail/cycle-grease-with-teflon-tube-150ml). For a couple of reasons.
Firstly it comes in a tube which screws directly to a needle nozzle gun (http://weldtite.co.uk/products/detail/grease-gun-grease-with-teflon-tube-150ml) which allows you some degree of accuracy when refitting ball bearings.
Secondly it's RED in colour. As most bike shops use white or amber grease - possibly because cost - it means I can generally tell if I've been in there before.
The grease gun may seem overkill when you can dip you finger in a tub of the stuff and smear the bearing surfaces before fitting the ball bearings but when I'm working with it all day there is much less mess and/or chance of ingestion. I really don't like it on bacon sandwiches! Another very useful feature is being able to lay a bead of grease accurately (usually) in a circle when using the grease as a sealing compound. The best example I can think of is Hollowtech II bearings which are internally sealed (ie inside the frame) but externally open to the elephants. A bead of grease on the inside of the crank will squish out as it makes contact and help to keep the weather out.
I use two different anti-seize compounds, traditional copper grease for bolt threads and a genius ceramic based compound called 'Off Shore' on the likes of brake pads & disc calipers, seatposts and quill stems. The latter in an aerosol, looks like grey primer and dries to a sticky grey film which will not migrate even when extremely hot, water resistant, etc, etc.
For derailleur pivots and area lubrication I also use aerosol white grease as found on car door hinges.
It's by no means the cheapest way of doing things but I like the idea of being able to undo something that was tightened 12 months ago - often the time interval between customer visits.*
ETA: Also, for some customers, the interval for cleaning the bike . . .
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My dad who by all accounts was a bloody good millwright and bike builder, always insisted on using a marine (waterproof) grease for most bike bearings. But I suppose that was going back to the days when seals were not as good as now.
I now use lithium grease for bearings that need lubrication and copper grease on parts of mixed metals or likely to cease.
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....... with cooking oil. Worked perfectly.
Might not be recommended for bikes though, not even chains.
Also worked perfectly for me on a very dry and squeaky chain. Usual café stop found it very amusing and now offer if to other cyclists in need of lubrication!
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If anyone is interested I have a 3kg tub of said red grease which will probably never be used.
Open to offers but I'm not posting it . . .
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I've owned a tub of Castrol grease for about 25 years, I mean the SAME tub.
You push down on an internal plate and grease oozes out of a hole on the middle (so it keeps the contents clean).
It has about 1/3 remaining which could keep me going until retirement.
It's just the perfect viscosity to hold ball-bearings in the race until you can get an axle in there.
Every bolt ever refitted on any of my bikes received a dab.
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My preference for general purpose lube requiring grease is Weldtite TF2 (http://weldtite.co.uk/products/detail/cycle-grease-with-teflon-tube-150ml). For a couple of reasons.
Firstly it comes in a tube which screws directly to a needle nozzle gun (http://weldtite.co.uk/products/detail/grease-gun-grease-with-teflon-tube-150ml) which allows you some degree of accuracy when refitting ball bearings.
Secondly it's RED in colour. As most bike shops use white or amber grease - possibly because cost - it means I can generally tell if I've been in there before.
I bought some of that specifically because that's what the two LBS I trust most with bikes seem to use... Seems decent enough stuff, but I ditched the gun for a better one I've had for years. The white Finish Line is good as well.
Campagnolo grease is very expensive but those in the know rate it highly. One day...
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My preference for general purpose lube requiring grease is Weldtite TF2 (http://weldtite.co.uk/products/detail/cycle-grease-with-teflon-tube-150ml). For a couple of reasons.
Firstly it comes in a tube which screws directly to a needle nozzle gun (http://weldtite.co.uk/products/detail/grease-gun-grease-with-teflon-tube-150ml) which allows you some degree of accuracy when refitting ball bearings.
Secondly it's RED in colour. As most bike shops use white or amber grease - possibly because cost - it means I can generally tell if I've been in there before.
I bought some of that specifically because that's what the two LBS I trust most with bikes seem to use... Seems decent enough stuff, but I ditched the gun for a better one I've had for years. The white Finish Line is good as well.
Campagnolo grease is very expensive but those in the know rate it highly. One day...
Does CAmpagnolo grease work with Shimano groupsets?
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Shimano Dura ace grease is lush.
(But a ridiculous price)
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I've owned a tub of Castrol grease for about 25 years, I mean the SAME tub.
You push down on an internal plate and grease oozes out of a hole on the middle (so it keeps the contents clean).
It has about 1/3 remaining which could keep me going until retirement.
It's just the perfect viscosity to hold ball-bearings in the race until you can get an axle in there.
Every bolt ever refitted on any of my bikes received a dab.
Blimey. Not just me then.
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I can remember when a periodic grease and (waste oil) spray was standard for road vehicles and this cost, in the day, something like 35p inc. Grease like everything else, seems to have become a high cost, high added value, branded, must have. I also have a tub in the garage at least 35 years old. ( I also use TF2 and needle gun).
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I can remember when a periodic grease and (waste oil) spray was standard for road vehicles and this cost, in the day, something like 35p inc. Grease like everything else, seems to have become a high cost, high added value, branded, must have. I also have a tub in the garage at least 35 years old. ( I also use TF2 and needle gun).
It's certainly possible to spend 10x more for 1/100th the amount of grease I bought 25 years ago.
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Years ago I used to use the Weldtite 'White grease', but my grease of choice is now JCB special HP grease - about £1.30 for a grease-gun refill tube from our local agricultural merchant. It seems to out-perfom the Weldtite stuff, lasting longer and keeping water out more effectively.
Plus, it's a nice blue colour. :D
Rogerzilla will probably be along shortly to tell you exactly which oil to use on hub gears. :demon:
I use 'Copperslip' on threads and components like seatposts as an anti-seize measure - either from a tube or aerosol. My LBS guru swears by the Shimano white version, but I think he told me it's a trade only product - he gave me a dollop in a plastic bag once. :o
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My preference for general purpose lube requiring grease is Weldtite TF2 (http://weldtite.co.uk/products/detail/cycle-grease-with-teflon-tube-150ml). For a couple of reasons.
Firstly it comes in a tube which screws directly to a needle nozzle gun (http://weldtite.co.uk/products/detail/grease-gun-grease-with-teflon-tube-150ml) which allows you some degree of accuracy when refitting ball bearings.
Secondly it's RED in colour. As most bike shops use white or amber grease - possibly because cost - it means I can generally tell if I've been in there before.
I bought some of that specifically because that's what the two LBS I trust most with bikes seem to use... Seems decent enough stuff, but I ditched the gun for a better one I've had for years. The white Finish Line is good as well.
Campagnolo grease is very expensive but those in the know rate it highly. One day...
Does CAmpagnolo grease work with Shimano groupsets?
No no no Campag grease is pasta based whilst Shimano is sushi, the two should not be mixed! ;D
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I've owned a tub of Castrol grease for about 25 years, I mean the SAME tub.
You push down on an internal plate and grease oozes out of a hole on the middle (so it keeps the contents clean).
It has about 1/3 remaining which could keep me going until retirement.
It's just the perfect viscosity to hold ball-bearings in the race until you can get an axle in there.
Every bolt ever refitted on any of my bikes received a dab.
Blimey. Not just me then.
Not just you Nicknack.
I would date my 500g tub of Castrol LM ~ 1986 / 1992, it having been acquired for car and motorcycle duties - (I wasn't cycling then)
It has an 01 telephone number prefix on the £2.99 price sticker from Midnight Auto Spares in Harrow.
Heady days...
In an uncharacteristic fit of generosity on my part, Pippa OTP has been the recipient of more lubricant from this tub than she is likely to need in her lifetime.
I think it was decanted into a curry paste tin, and I fabricated the plate with a hole in it from styrene or acrylic - I forget which.
What remains in the tub for me, is more grease than I am ever likely to need.
Assuming, of course, that someone fixes my spaceship and I am able to go home at the earliest available opportunity.
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... I read on a newsgroup that the there's this stuff called molybdenum disulphide ...
FTFY
I think IUPAC has standardised the 'f' spelling now.
f IUPAC!
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I have a tub of white Finish Line Teflon grease that I've had since 1992-ish, and it's still going. However, it usually goes missing about a week before I need it and turns up about three months later, which probably explains
a) it's longevity and
b) why John has introduced me to the Weldtite grease gun thingy which is very handy.
Copper ease for the bits that need to not seize.
Oh, and Finish Line 'wet' for the chain because it's Manchester...
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I don't think the type of grease matters much for short service intervals ....
This mostly.
I think it's another area of bicycle Cychobollox. I've tried all sorts of different 'special' greases and I've come to the conclusion after 40 years cycling and a current 12 bike fleet in the garage that nothing works any better than simple Vaseline (chain is Finish Line Green*).
Wheel bearings, headsets, threads, pedal bearings, bottom brackets (even the old kind) all work just peachily with Vaseline and seem to last well.
Furthermore, it doesn't dry-out, it's cheap and readily available and the little tiny pots are great for touring as it can serve for chapped lips, arse-sores and bicycle maintenance.
Bicycles are not car engines or bearings, I really don't believe that we need to get that excited by alternative grease technologies.
I'm available for burning after 3pm tomorrow.
*only 'cos this seems to stick best to the chain, doesn't coat the bike with spray and washes-out least easily in the wet, otherwise 3in1 fits the bill.
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I'm available for burning after 3pm tomorrow.
;D
Vaseline?
That surprises..... srsly.
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Campagnolo grease is very expensive but those in the know rate it highly. One day...
The late Mr R Ballantine described Campag grease as "a load of old cod".
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Thanks all. In the absence of a tub of Castrol grease that's been lurking since the early 90s (as I say, wrong kind of engineer, though in my defence the 60:40 solder stash is lasting well) I'm liking the sound of the Weldtite grease gun arrangement, so might just get myself some of that.
I'm also deeply sceptical about how much it matters, and nobody seems to be saying "don't get $thing-based stuff anywhere near your suspension seals" or anything, which I suppose was the important bit.
For chains I settled ages ago on a 50:50 mixture of white spirit and chainsaw oil. This seems to give the right balance of getting into the rollers easily and drying out to obnoxious stickyness, and performs as well as 3-in-1 or the proper wet lube I tried (a worthwhile investment, as it means I have a nice dripper bottle to refill). Dry lube sounds nice, if you've got some dry weather to go with it.
Dérailleurs and the like get a squirt of GT85 from time to time.
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I've taken to using outboard motor grease for bike wheel bearings. I can tell myself it helps if I ride through deep water. Might do.
I've got some spray grease (Hal****s probably) which is good for general squirtage
(I tend to assume that all the fancy grades and sub-types are for applications that don't warn you if they are about to fail, or it really matters if it does)
Like many here I have a part used tub of LM grease from 20 years ago, that will probably be passed onto my grandchildren, along with the half used tub from the 70s / 80s my dad left. He was that sort of engineer, so there's all sorts on the shelf
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Thanks all. In the absence of a tub of Castrol grease that's been lurking since the early 90s (as I say, wrong kind of engineer, though in my defence the 60:40 solder stash is lasting well) I'm liking the sound of the Weldtite grease gun arrangement, so might just get myself some of that.
I'm also deeply sceptical about how much it matters, and nobody seems to be saying "don't get $thing-based stuff anywhere near your suspension seals" or anything, which I suppose was the important bit.
For chains I settled ages ago on a 50:50 mixture of white spirit and chainsaw oil. This seems to give the right balance of getting into the rollers easily and drying out to obnoxious stickyness, and performs as well as 3-in-1 or the proper wet lube I tried (a worthwhile investment, as it means I have a nice dripper bottle to refill). Dry lube sounds nice, if you've got some dry weather to go with it.
Dérailleurs and the like get a squirt of GT85 from time to time.
I too has a stash of Pb heavy solder :smug:
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I'm available for burning after 3pm tomorrow.
;D
Vaseline?
That surprises..... srsly.
Works a treat :thumbsup:
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I've owned a tub of Castrol grease for about 25 years, I mean the SAME tub.
You push down on an internal plate and grease oozes out of a hole on the middle (so it keeps the contents clean).
It has about 1/3 remaining which could keep me going until retirement.
It's just the perfect viscosity to hold ball-bearings in the race until you can get an axle in there.
Every bolt ever refitted on any of my bikes received a dab.
Blimey. Not just me then.
Not just you Nicknack.
I would date my 500g tub of Castrol LM ~ 1986 / 1992, it having been acquired for car and motorcycle duties - (I wasn't cycling then)
It has an 01 telephone number prefix on the £2.99 price sticker from Midnight Auto Spares in Harrow.
Heady days...
In an uncharacteristic fit of generosity on my part, Pippa OTP has been the recipient of more lubricant from this tub than she is likely to need in her lifetime.
I think it was decanted into a curry paste tin, and I fabricated the plate with a hole in it from styrene or acrylic - I forget which.
What remains in the tub for me, is more grease than I am ever likely to need.
Assuming, of course, that someone fixes my spaceship and I am able to go home at the earliest available opportunity.
Mine dates from when I motorcycled.
The last bike I had was in 1978.
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One of the finest things I have ever used was aerosol copperslip - brilliant but no way of making the can last 25 years.
I think modern lithium greases go hard and soapy more quickly than the old ones used to. This may be tied to temperature resistance - I would avoid anything marked high temperature on a bike. It could just be that the LM that I pinched was not very good quality.
I use the molybdenum disulphide stuff (called MS2 over here) but that's 'cos I have some that didn't cost me.
Vaseline might work well but that is not its true purpose. We used it on hydraulic re-assembly.
Water pump grease is frequently white as well.
Avoid anything coming free from a digger driver if it's marked chisel grease. Chisel pastes are not grease and kill bearings (and looks like very dark copperslip). They are for breaker chisels which get very hot.
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i've got a tub of texaco molybdenum grease which will last forever, especially as most bearings are sealed nowadays. i only use it on screw threads, inside ss freewheel, bb threads and axle - only tiny amounts. used finish line white lithium as well, also good.
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Wandering from the bicycluar to the more theoretical, where do lithium and molybdenum disulphide come into it? (This is where I'm really clueless)
I assume the lithium compound is the soap... presumably distinct from, what, sodium compounds? Why would you choose one over another?
I assume the molybdenum disulphide is a lubricating additive, like the PTFE in the stuff recommended upthread? Sounds like a Good Thing, presumably important in some applications.
Vaseline I'm familiar with; that's for lubricating ball-cocks.
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I assume the lithium compound is the soap... presumably distinct from, what, sodium compounds? Why would you choose one over another?
I'm not a chemist, just un endjuneer, but my understanding is lithium is good as a soap because it's water repellent, has an affinity for metals, and is non-corrosive - it doesn't easily wash off, fall off or react with any surface it touches.
I assume the molybdenum disulphide is a lubricating additive, like the PTFE in the stuff recommended upthread? Sounds like a Good Thing, presumably important in some applications.
Yes. It has a crystalline structure that has weak bonds between layers, so it slides over itself easily and is therefore useful as a dry lubricant as well as suspended in oil. It's chemically fairly inert but it has some interesting electrical and morphological characteristics. It's really quite interesting stuff.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide)
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Most people will know molybdenum disulphide from the trade name 'Molyslip' which was marketed originally in the 50s & 60s - when the ASA was but a twinkle and manufacturers claimed all kinds of outrageous shite - as the wonder cure for worn gearbox bearings and noisy axles.
I believe it 'worked' on the basis that a noisy transmission would quieten down if you put something in it as opposed to the nothing that had all leaked away.
Cars really were heaps of shite back then . . .
and so the magic compound has stuck in the collective conciousness and perhaps has only recently been surpassed by PTFE*
*and if you think I'm typing polytetrafluoroethylene at a quarter past one in the morning you've got another thing coming!
Erm. Hang on . . .
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I'm also deeply sceptical about how much it matters, and nobody seems to be saying "don't get $thing-based stuff anywhere near your suspension seals" or anything, which I suppose was the important bit.
Actually, I was told to keep GT85, oils and grease away from suspension seals as they can swell under the influence and thenn wear more quickly, needing earlier replacement. Having seen the impact of grease and electrolytic action on an alloy stem in a carbon frame (or moreaccurately not seen as I can't separate the two) I'm inclined to take that one seriously.
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Most people will know molybdenum disulphide from the trade name 'Molyslip' which was marketed originally in the 50s & 60s - when the ASA was but a twinkle and manufacturers claimed all kinds of outrageous shite - as the wonder cure for worn gearbox bearings and noisy axles.
I believe it 'worked' on the basis that a noisy transmission would quieten down if you put something in it as opposed to the nothing that had all leaked away.
Cars really were heaps of shite back then . . .
and so the magic compound has stuck in the collective conciousness and perhaps has only recently been surpassed by PTFE*
*and if you think I'm typing polytetrafluoroethylene at a quarter past one in the morning you've got another thing coming!
Erm. Hang on . . .
And, you may recall, that MolySlip was replaced in the snake oil stakes by Slick50, which was ptfe based. I heard it suggested that if quietened a transmission and reduced fuel consumption in the same way as sawdust - by filling any gaps including oilways, thus accelerating ultimate failure.
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I'm another one with a pot of Castrol. I've had it 30 years since I was 18 and first started mucking about with motorbikes. Unfortunately I dropped it and the base is cracked and in the summer it leaks slowly over the shelf so I may actually have to replace it. Unless I drop that as well the replacement will definitely see me out. Castrol for general greasing purposes and ball races etc, coppraslip for preventing bolts seizing and whatever comes to hand for chains usually 3in1 or whatever cheapish specialist chain oil I have to hand. I used to buy expensive chain oil for motorbike chains though as they are a) very expensive and b) likely to kill you if they snap.
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Most people will know molybdenum disulphide from the trade name 'Molyslip' which was marketed originally in the 50s & 60s - when the ASA was but a twinkle and manufacturers claimed all kinds of outrageous shite - as the wonder cure for worn gearbox bearings and noisy axles.
I believe it 'worked' on the basis that a noisy transmission would quieten down if you put something in it as opposed to the nothing that had all leaked away.
Cars really were heaps of shite back then . . .
and so the magic compound has stuck in the collective conciousness and perhaps has only recently been surpassed by PTFE*
*and if you think I'm typing polytetrafluoroethylene at a quarter past one in the morning you've got another thing coming!
Erm. Hang on . . .
And, you may recall, that MolySlip was replaced in the snake oil stakes by Slick50, which was ptfe based. I heard it suggested that if quietened a transmission and reduced fuel consumption in the same way as sawdust - by filling any gaps including oilways, thus accelerating ultimate failure.
Yes. In the days when I worked for M*t*r W*rld, I used to sell all that crap.
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Its also a term which describes ‘getting official documents processed quicker than normal in foreign lands.’
And,,, 'getting Brevet cards accepted that don't have the correct answers to Info controls.'
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The 'elbow' type helps cyclists climb hills better.
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I'm using a grease gun cartridge of some sort of blue marine grease that I got as part of a group buy when this subject was discussed on the original CTC forum way back when.
If I should ever run out (unlikely), I've a mate in Tewkesbury who has 3x25kg tubs that he liberated when the flour mill he maintained trucks for closed down.
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the red stuff can be bought in a concertina container with a thin nozzle.
great for:
1) inserting clean grease exactly where you want it
2) building forearm muscles like popeye
Seriously, I don't exactly have weak hands, I've broken my fair share of pliers and can crack walnuts in one hand - but I struggle to get grease out of these bloody things. Maybe better if they are warmed up. However the grease outlasts normal castrol stuff, you can see where you've put it. The red colour means you can tell when it is getting filthy with iron particles. It's good stuff.
I bought some eco grease. Recommended by etc, etc. Smells like face cream, looks suspiciously thin and washes off in 5 min. Not recommended.
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I've owned a tub of Castrol grease for about 25 years, I mean the SAME tub.
You push down on an internal plate and grease oozes out of a hole on the middle (so it keeps the contents clean).
It has about 1/3 remaining which could keep me going until retirement.
It's just the perfect viscosity to hold ball-bearings in the race until you can get an axle in there.
Every bolt ever refitted on any of my bikes received a dab.
Blimey. Not just me then.
Not just you Nicknack.
I would date my 500g tub of Castrol LM ~ 1986 / 1992, it having been acquired for car and motorcycle duties - (I wasn't cycling then)
It has an 01 telephone number prefix on the £2.99 price sticker from Midnight Auto Spares in Harrow.
Heady days...
In an uncharacteristic fit of generosity on my part, Pippa OTP has been the recipient of more lubricant from this tub than she is likely to need in her lifetime.
I think it was decanted into a curry paste tin, and I fabricated the plate with a hole in it from styrene or acrylic - I forget which.
What remains in the tub for me, is more grease than I am ever likely to need.
Assuming, of course, that someone fixes my spaceship and I am able to go home at the earliest available opportunity.
Mine dates from when I motorcycled.
The last bike I had was in 1978.
And you try telling the kids of today that and they won't believe you!
[/4yorkshiremen]
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I've owned a tub of Castrol grease for about 25 years, I mean the SAME tub.
You push down on an internal plate and grease oozes out of a hole on the middle (so it keeps the contents clean).
It has about 1/3 remaining which could keep me going until retirement.
It's just the perfect viscosity to hold ball-bearings in the race until you can get an axle in there.
Every bolt ever refitted on any of my bikes received a dab.
Blimey. Not just me then.
Not just you Nicknack.
I would date my 500g tub of Castrol LM ~ 1986 / 1992, it having been acquired for car and motorcycle duties - (I wasn't cycling then)
It has an 01 telephone number prefix on the £2.99 price sticker from Midnight Auto Spares in Harrow.
Heady days...
In an uncharacteristic fit of generosity on my part, Pippa OTP has been the recipient of more lubricant from this tub than she is likely to need in her lifetime.
I think it was decanted into a curry paste tin, and I fabricated the plate with a hole in it from styrene or acrylic - I forget which.
What remains in the tub for me, is more grease than I am ever likely to need.
Assuming, of course, that someone fixes my spaceship and I am able to go home at the earliest available opportunity.
Mine dates from when I motorcycled.
The last bike I had was in 1978.
And you try telling the kids of today that and they won't believe you!
[/4yorkshiremen]
I also have a tin of castrol grease with a plate in it, I however inherited mine from my grandfather who was a toolmaker so the tins been pretty used up. I'm currently working through a plain white tin marked lithium grease in black letters (no other markings at all) that fell out the back door of the Dowty Mining Stores when they shut the factory in the early nineties.
D.
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I have various types of grease from Catrol LM to specific bike greases. But my favourite is a black grease designed for smearing over exposed outdoor gears and moving parts. It is incredibly messy - blackens anything it touches - but is very soft, coats all surfaces, and seems ideal for any slow-moving, less-than-perfectly-sealed bearing. I use it with a needle grease gun to minimise mess.
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Having just run out of Weldtite red grease I was on point of buying a 50gm Finish Line tube " this is the best grease you could possibly get blah blah ...." type product when friendly mechanic @LBS says I use Morris water resistant K99 grease all the time now ;)
So off I goes and orders a 500gm pot of Morris K99, being happy that as it comes from Shrewsbury it must be good ::-)
Said 500gm pot cost a tenner and is now getting much used, said Finish Line tube also would have cost a tenner.............
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I've owned a tub of Castrol grease for about 25 years, I mean the SAME tub.
You push down on an internal plate and grease oozes out of a hole on the middle (so it keeps the contents clean).
It has about 1/3 remaining which could keep me going until retirement.
It's just the perfect viscosity to hold ball-bearings in the race until you can get an axle in there.
Every bolt ever refitted on any of my bikes received a dab.
Blimey. Not just me then.
Not just you Nicknack.
I would date my 500g tub of Castrol LM ~ 1986 / 1992, it having been acquired for car and motorcycle duties - (I wasn't cycling then)
It has an 01 telephone number prefix on the £2.99 price sticker from Midnight Auto Spares in Harrow.
Heady days...
In an uncharacteristic fit of generosity on my part, Pippa OTP has been the recipient of more lubricant from this tub than she is likely to need in her lifetime.
I think it was decanted into a curry paste tin, and I fabricated the plate with a hole in it from styrene or acrylic - I forget which.
What remains in the tub for me, is more grease than I am ever likely to need.
Assuming, of course, that someone fixes my spaceship and I am able to go home at the earliest available opportunity.
Mine dates from when I motorcycled.
The last bike I had was in 1978.
And you try telling the kids of today that and they won't believe you!
[/4yorkshiremen]
I also have a tin of castrol grease with a plate in it, I however inherited mine from my grandfather who was a toolmaker so the tins been pretty used up. I'm currently working through a plain white tin marked lithium grease in black letters (no other markings at all) that fell out the back door of the Dowty Mining Stores when they shut the factory in the early nineties.
D.
My pot of Rocol fell out of the back door of SAGEM Automotive Electronics Engine Management Systems when they folded in 2012.
I think the variety would be Rocol Sapphire.
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What would folks recommend for greasing squeaky rollerbrakes? All I've got kicking about at the moment's a tube of shimano grease, which seems a bit thick to squeeze into the grease ports; is there anything more fluid that might be easier to get in, but that won't contaminate the brake shoes? (Is this a risk with rollerbrakes? I realise I'm ignorant of the internals.)
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I thought Shimano had a specific grease for roller brakes that worked very well. I don't know what it is relabelled from.
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What would folks recommend for greasing squeaky rollerbrakes? All I've got kicking about at the moment's a tube of shimano grease, which seems a bit thick to squeeze into the grease ports; is there anything more fluid that might be easier to get in, but that won't contaminate the brake shoes? (Is this a risk with rollerbrakes? I realise I'm ignorant of the internals.)
As LWaB say, Shimano roller brake grease is the stuff to use. Counter intuitively, the grease does get between the brake shoe and the drum. It's meant to and Bad Things will happen if you run the brake without the grease. Bad Things will also happen if you use the wrong grease.
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Probably as well to read Sheldon (http://sheldonbrown.com/rollerbrakes.html) on the subject as an introduction: he links to various Shimano tech pages.
The pukka grease seems readily available: Chain Reaction (http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-roller-brake-grease/rp-prod33669) has it but even my desultory search threw up a couple of places that sell it a little cheaper.
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Normal greases are a soap base that holds the oil, waterproof grease means that the saop base is water proof.
There is a logic to grease, in automotive terms. Copper grease does dry out and leave the copper residue which is the anti slip bit.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grease_%28lubricant%29
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For bolts you should use a thread locker/sealant the kind that coat the thread to stop galvanic corrosion or just corrosion.
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For bolts, I normally use ordinary grease if it's going to be redone within a couple of years, otherwise copper grease or threadlocker. You don't want threadlocker on every bolt.
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A newbie question that I've been failing to get round to asking for a while. In my defence, I'm more inclined towards the software and soldering iron end of the engineering spectrum, and only pretend to know what I'm doing with a spanner.
So yeah: grease. I understand that it tends to be used for one of three main functions: To lubricate moving parts so they run smoothly with less wear; to protect things from corrosion; and to encourage parts to fit together more consistently and/or eventually come apart with lesser degrees of Persuasion.
Supplemental to that, I'm aware that in comes in all sorts of flavours, the subtleties of which may or may not be important for a given application. Thermal grease I understand. Copper grease to prevent parts from seizing makes sense (indeed, I've got a tube of it somewhere, which I use as a talisman to ward off stuck pedals and freewheels). That high-speed moving parts are going to make specific demands in terms of temperature stability and viscosity makes sense, as does the fact that you don't get such high speed moving parts on pedal cycles. I can imagine gear hubs are quite fussy about viscosity, though. I'm also vaguely aware that some recipes are better for keeping water out of stuff (which *does* seem desirable on a bike), that some may not get on with certain plastics, that lithium is what you need for manic-depressive bearings, and I read on a newsgroup that the there's this stuff called molybdenum disulfide that when applied to your chain will allow you to climb hills like Lance Armstrong.
Up until now, I've been lubricating my mechanical bits (chiefly screw threads, but also the odd headset bearing, suspension part or brake pivot) with a small tub of "bicycle grease"[1] that was cheap on Wiggle when I didn't really know what I was doing. It's almost run out, so I probably ought to invest in something else.
So, what do I need, guys? (Answers of the style "get a litre of this from your local chandler for a fiver and use it for everything except hub gears, and it should last you until you're getting birthday cards from the queen" strongly preferred.)
[1] It's white, and tastes bad.
Copper grease is really an unscrewing paste, which is what Shimano call it. Not a lubricant for moving parts.
Lithium grease (may be white, red, or just a big tub of yellow Castrol LM) is your all-purpose stuff. Fairly waterproof and good for bearings.
Calcium grease (Castrol CL) is the most waterproof. May not lubricate quite as well but good for lake jumping, floods etc.
Polyurea grease is the blue smelly Park stuff. Supposed to be best for bearings.
Weird greases: Sturmey-Archer internal gear hub grease is a very thick brown oil. SRAM internal gear hub grease is like a pale yellow version of Colgate Blue Minty Gel.
And then there's that carbon seatpost stuff, which I think is a plastic-friendly grease with little plastic balls in it for friction.
Roller (or coaster) brakes need to run in grease to stop the metal shoes melting, which would give pretty much zero friction. There are special greases available but they're generally molybdenum sulphide greases; horrid black sticky stuff. My SA coaster hub has Ceratec automotive disc brake grease in the brake end. It's rated for 1000 deg C, intended for the back of car brake pads, and works well.
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Don't forget Permatex Anti-seize lubricant compound. Coat all your threads.
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I wonder how useful Hylomar would be in those applications where you might otherwise use Copaslip - given that Hylomar never hardens or sets. I'm thinking of BBs and pedals.
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copaslip conveys benefit even when all the grease has washed out. A thin film of copper remains.
I had to strip down my rear wheel bearings on Sun (not ridden the bike in ages). It felt rough and like it was binding.
Left-hand Cone worn, quite badly. No idea how many miles the bike has done, under 10k. There was plenty of grease in there.
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I have an ancient (> 15yo) tub of Halfords LM grease that I use for everything - wheel bearings, bottom bracket threads, headset bearings, pedal threads etc.
I've often looked at some other greases in fancy colours and wondered if I should be using one of those instead, consensus seems to be not. Correct me if that's wrong!
Wondering if I should at least use copper grease for thread applications, BB & pedals in particular, thoughts?
In other news... I use olive oil to lubricate door hinges, works a treat.
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Wondering if I should at least use copper grease for thread applications, BB & pedals in particular, thoughts?
At least, copper grease is a good idea for tight parts that you're going to leave alone for a number of years. The metal flakes remain forever to assist loosening.
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There is a school of thought which says that Copper grease should never be used on Aluminium.
There's quiet a lot of disagreement on that on t'Internet.
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Some manufacturers of copper grease have said it's for all metals, so I'm not a subscriber of the theory myself, but an alternative for those who believe it's bad to use copper grease on aluminium is aluminium anti-seize grease. The key is the relatively big flakes of metal (big compared to any other particles in grease) - be they copper, aluminium or whatever.
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Some manufacturers of copper grease have said it's for all metals, so I'm not a subscriber of the theory myself, but an alternative for those who believe it's bad to use copper grease on aluminium is aluminium anti-seize grease. The key is the relatively big flakes of metal (big compared to any other particles in grease) - be they copper, aluminium or whatever.
I bought some copper grease today :thumbsup: (and some araldite). I had thought idea of a copper grease was to reduce Al / steel interfaces bonding by galvanic corrosion type effect? eg this :
Before bolting alloy wheels to the vehicle hub a light smear of copper grease should be used where the alloy will come into contact with the steel hub: otherwise corrosion between the dissimilar metals of the steel hub and the alloy wheel can cause the wheel to seize on to the hub
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It is theorised that copper in contact with the aluminum can cause faster corrosion of the aluminium.
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It is theorised that copper in contact with the aluminum can cause faster corrosion of the aluminium.
Yes I`ve noted that too!! BUT all performance car sites indicate its useage to avoid corroding of Al onto steel. I also came across an article about copper plate sheets coming off as hip`s hull as the use of iron nails caused galvanic corrosion of the nails which rusted away---but that is just two metals in contact; with Cu grease there is an electrochemical series of Al / Cu / Fe involved and is the Cu component being the `sacrificial` one to avoid a corrosion between Al / Fe?
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I too have the prerequisite tin of Castrol LM (Castrol Limited, Swindon, Wilts, England, so pre-dating postcodes), about half of which is still left. I would guess that the bulk of it was used on the hub bearings on my old Claud Butler, acquired in (I think) 1979). I would imagine that the grease is the same vintage.
I must amend my will so that I leave my grease to a deserving YACFer. Kim? It's your thread, so you clearly need to grease it.
Actually, it is by no means impossible that this tin was purchased for the lubrication of vital parts of my BSA Bantam motor cycle, which was acquired in about 1970. There is a label on it but it is so covered in dried-on grot that it's totally illegible. It could well be pre-decimalisation.
Edit: Dez is cleaning the tin in order to try to remove the label and read it. He has successfully removed the label but that hasn't improved its legibility.
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I too have the prerequisite tin of Castrol LM (Castrol Limited, Swindon, Wilts, England, so pre-dating postcodes), about half of which is still left. I would guess that the bulk of it was used on the hub bearings on my old Claud Butler, acquired in (I think) 1979). I would imagine that the grease is the same vintage.
I must amend my will so that I leave my grease to a deserving YACFer. Kim? It's your thread, so you clearly need to grease it.
Same vintage as me, so it'd be rude not to. ;D
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Yes Castrol LM owner here too, bought mid-70s. :thumbsup:
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It is theorised that copper in contact with the aluminum can cause faster corrosion of the aluminium.
Yes I`ve noted that too!! BUT all performance car sites indicate its useage to avoid corroding of Al onto steel. I also came across an article about copper plate sheets coming off as hip`s hull as the use of iron nails caused galvanic corrosion of the nails which rusted away---but that is just two metals in contact; with Cu grease there is an electrochemical series of Al / Cu / Fe involved and is the Cu component being the `sacrificial` one to avoid a corrosion between Al / Fe?
Sacrifice plates.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_anode
Got them on the speedboat engine.
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(It's normally the more reactive metal that is "sacrificed", so not the copper.)
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It's only really alloy wheels that seize onto steel car hubs. Steel wheels almost never do, probably because the contact area is quite small with a pressed steel wheel as well as for galvanic reasons.
Anyway, Castrol is now a brand of BP Lubricants and they only have about half a floor at the Pipers Way site in Swindon. We have most of the building now. There are two fabulous Burmese lions guarding the main entrance to the building (a legacy of Burmah Castrol). Legend has it that they were given to Margaret Thatcher by the Burmese government of the time, and she gave them to Burmah Castrol. No, I don't know where the "h" in Burmah came from.
http://www.aldricharchive.com/downloads/punchroomburmahcastrol.pdf
EDIT: the fact that one Denis Thatcher was a divisional director of Burmah at the time gives this story at least a whiff of veracity
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Yes I`ve noted that too!! BUT all performance car sites indicate its useage to avoid corroding of Al onto steel. I also came across an article about copper plate sheets coming off a ships hull as the use of iron nails caused galvanic corrosion of the nails which rusted away---but that is just two metals in contact; with Cu grease there is an electrochemical series of Al / Cu / Fe involved and is the Cu component being the `sacrificial` one to avoid a corrosion between Al / Fe?
I think Faraday was called in to resolve that one.
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http://corrosion-doctors.org/Definitions/galvanic-series.htm The top of the table always corrodes preferentially, regardless of the number of metals involved.
There are complicating factors (as always). The type of electrolyte and particularly salinity can change things in unexpected directions. The relative surface areas of anode and cathode affects corrosion rate dramatically and may not relate to contact area, provided they are electrically continuous. Some think that copper in grease reduces electrical resistance, increasing corrosion rate.
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I too have the prerequisite tin of Castrol LM (Castrol Limited, Swindon, Wilts, England, so pre-dating postcodes), about half of which is still left. I would guess that the bulk of it was used on the hub bearings on my old Claud Butler, acquired in (I think) 1979). I would imagine that the grease is the same vintage.
Postcodes were introduced in 1974. Or 1856, depending on your definition. Click! (http://www.postalheritage.org.uk/explore/history/postcode/) Castrol was founded in 1899. Click! (http://www.bp.com/en/global/corporate/about-bp/our-history/history-of-castrol.html) So I reckon you've got some Edwardian grease there. :D
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ISTR that Dad had a tin of Duckhams LB10 grease which I dipped into as a kid for wheelbearings and bottom bracket bearings and some copaslip IIRC for seatpins, quill stems, etc.
I did inherit the LB10 grease tin which was about 2/3rd full still but it seems to have been mislaid during the Great Divide*. I must ask #1 son to see if he can dig it out for me along with my Scalextric and other childhood memorabilia.
* Divorce.
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This http://forum.ctc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=42374#p341163
contains all of the most informed discussion I've ever seen on this topic.
The outcome was a group buy of something that only came in 10kg tubs (or simlar); "colin" agreed to sell it on in senmsible sized bottles. Or something.
I thought I’d highlight this post, since it links to a rather fascinating post by Chris Juden that roughly quintupled my knowledge of grease in five minutes.
(Plus I’ve just bought a tube of Mobilith SHC 1500 from a gentleman selling batches in the classifieds, and it’s good to remind myself why I paid so much for some sticky stuff.)
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I've owned a tub of Castrol grease for about 25 years, I mean the SAME tub.
You push down on an internal plate and grease oozes out of a hole on the middle (so it keeps the contents clean).
It has about 1/3 remaining which could keep me going until retirement.
It's just the perfect viscosity to hold ball-bearings in the race until you can get an axle in there.
Every bolt ever refitted on any of my bikes received a dab.
I have a tub of that stuff I inherited from my dad, still going strong, and yes, every bolt gets a dab of grease. That approach has saved several sweary, tetchy moments over the years.
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Partly influenced by this thread and my LBS who use it, I now put copper grease on all threads.
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Partly influenced by this thread and my LBS who use it, I now put copper grease on all threads.
I wondered who put copper grease on this thread.
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Partly influenced by this thread and my LBS who use it, I now put copper grease on all threads.
I wondered who put copper grease on this thread.
;D ;D ;D
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Glancing quickly at the list of thread titles, I thought someone was asking for an explanation of cheese.
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My worst grease experience was with an old front hub with the wrong dustcap that allowed a lot of rain water in. The Comma grease (I think it was) completely emulsified with the water and made my balls clatter like mad.
But would even the best waterproof grease survive that degree of abuse, i.e. being mixed vigorously with a large amount of water?
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Boat trailer grease would .
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This http://forum.ctc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=42374#p341163
contains all of the most informed discussion I've ever seen on this topic.
The outcome was a group buy of something that only came in 10kg tubs (or simlar); "colin" agreed to sell it on in senmsible sized bottles. Or something.
I thought I’d highlight this post, since it links to a rather fascinating post by Chris Juden that roughly quintupled my knowledge of grease in five minutes.
(Plus I’ve just bought a tube of Mobilith SHC 1500 from a gentleman selling batches in the classifieds, and it’s good to remind myself why I paid so much for some sticky stuff.)
I think it distills down to "use water pump grease".
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Thread revival. Changing a bottom bracket, new experience for me. I have a tub of the default garage grease, but as I need to grease the BB with an 'anti seize' grease, according to the interweb/YouTube guides, would copper grease be better?
If the answer it STILL boat trailer grease, can someone point me in the direction of a make and perhaps supplier, who sells it in small tubes and NOT 50 GALLON drums please?
Taa.
Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
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Copper grease can be bought in 500g tins, smaller tubes (80g at a guess) aerosol can and little 5g sachets from your local motor factors/car accessory shop.
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So you think copper grease is OK? I was concerned it may be abrasive? No? Cheers.
Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
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So you think copper grease is OK? I was concerned it may be abrasive? No? Cheers.
You grease the BB cup threads with copper grease, you don't grease the bearings with it. As the cups should only be moving when you're removing or fitting the BB the abrasiveness is irrelevant
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Cheers Cyclops, I have a Shimano bb to fit, after removing a Square taper and Strong light Impact crank. Putting a 105 compact on my winter CX to try out. You organising any more CX rides?
Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
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can we have a lithium soap/lithium complex discussion. :facepalm:
Look up marine waterproof grease.
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Copper grease can be bought in 500g tins, smaller tubes (80g at a guess) aerosol can and little 5g sachets from your local motor factors/car accessory shop.
Also available as a Prit Stick sized stick from Loctite which I find more useful and less messy (although quite a bit more expensive than a tube).
http://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/lubricating-penetrating-oil/loctite-anti-seize-copper-lubricant-20g
(other automotive supply shops/motor factors are available and usually preferred/cheaper - the above link is an example and I'd rather not endorse Halfords products or prices)
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CJs original two part CTC Cycle Touring and Campaigning magazine articles on lube where in the August/September 1992 (starts page 38) and October/November 1992 (starts page 36):
I have them in my folder of such detailed and trustworthy CTC technical articles: a unique benefit of the then CTC that has now been removed.
I could scan them and PM if you want?
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Yes please! Do it quick before someone says you shouldn’t!
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Thread revival. Changing a bottom bracket, new experience for me. I have a tub of the default garage grease, but as I need to grease the BB with an 'anti seize' grease, according to the interweb/YouTube guides, would copper grease be better?
Copper grease is better than ordinary grease for BBs, but sometimes you might want to use threadlocker (Loctite) instead, sometimes just for the left side. I've used threadlocker to prevent further tightening rather than loosening - which is not normally necessary but helps when there's some misalignment causing the cartridge bearings to bind as a side effect of the cups being very tight.
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I popped out at lunchtime and bought a small toothpaste sized tube of copper grease.
Cheers, Dave C
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CJs original two part CTC Cycle Touring and Campaigning magazine articles on lube where in the August/September 1992 (starts page 38) and October/November 1992 (starts page 36):
I have them in my folder of such detailed and trustworthy CTC technical articles: a unique benefit of the then CTC that has now been removed.
I could scan them and PM if you want?
Yes please! Do it quick before someone says you shouldn’t!
if you are pm-ing, think of me too!
cheers
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Perhaps we need a YACF archive library for storing such useful stuff?
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That would be very appreciated, if it's possible, and if someone is willing to do the work.
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I can't see anywhere in a PM to add an attachment?
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You could try this: http://wikisend.com
I believe it expires after a week, but that’s okay. No need to create an account or log in or anything.
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Did you ever manage to get this article online, SA_SA_SA_SA? I’d still love to see it.
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I read the conditions for that website and felt I would be breaking them .
Ii could proper email them to any PMed proper email addresses.
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Reposting this here for future reference:
They've had several deep immersions in the floods recently, so I repacked and flushed the ancient M737 SPDs using the time-honoured method of filling the body 1/3 full of grease and screwing the bearing assembly back in.
I can't recommend this grease highly enough. It is an absolute bugger to wash off your hands, but it really works - the M737s never had lip seals so the grease fill is the only thing keeping 8 inches of floodwater out of the innards. Designed for wheel bearings in boat trailers.
https://www.force4.co.uk/item/Ramonol/Universal-Grease-150g-Tube/GMO
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Someone told me recently that copper grease is to be outlawed. Is this correct?
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Can't think why it would be ???
Either way, I have a 500g tub of the stuff.
I don't see me running out.
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Reposting this here for future reference:
They've had several deep immersions in the floods recently, so I repacked and flushed the ancient M737 SPDs using the time-honoured method of filling the body 1/3 full of grease and screwing the bearing assembly back in.
I can't recommend this grease highly enough. It is an absolute bugger to wash off your hands, but it really works - the M737s never had lip seals so the grease fill is the only thing keeping 8 inches of floodwater out of the innards. Designed for wheel bearings in boat trailers.
https://www.force4.co.uk/item/Ramonol/Universal-Grease-150g-Tube/GMO
A 500g tub is much better value. Is there anything special about that particular grease, or would any marine grease be similar?
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Copper in the environment can be toxic, there are a couple of US states that have laws to ban copper in vehicle brake pads.
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Reposting this here for future reference:
They've had several deep immersions in the floods recently, so I repacked and flushed the ancient M737 SPDs using the time-honoured method of filling the body 1/3 full of grease and screwing the bearing assembly back in.
I can't recommend this grease highly enough. It is an absolute bugger to wash off your hands, but it really works - the M737s never had lip seals so the grease fill is the only thing keeping 8 inches of floodwater out of the innards. Designed for wheel bearings in boat trailers.
https://www.force4.co.uk/item/Ramonol/Universal-Grease-150g-Tube/GMO
A 500g tub is much better value. Is there anything special about that particular grease, or would any marine grease be similar?
I use K99 which is much the same at half the price. Cost is not really a factor as a 500g pot will last a lifetime* if you're using for bike purposes. The more expensive one is rated to higher temperatures, again not a relevant difference for bike bearings.
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Morris K99 is slightly cheaper (than Ramonol White Grease) and is calcium based, Ramonol White Grease is lithium based, is there any difference except for the advice not to mix them together?
I've still got a little bit of Duckhams Keenol left and that seems to be lithium based although I do have a newer tub of marine grease which is calcium based and have mixed it with the old Keenol grease in a part.
edit: corrected errors
Ramonol White Grease 500g
A quality Lithium general purpose grease specifically designed for marine use with good adhesive qualities and water resistance.
Ideal for stern glands, steering glands, seacocks and turning blocks,
Please Note: This grease is not suitable for trailer wheel bearings (use Ramonol Universal Grease).
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Reposting this here for future reference:
They've had several deep immersions in the floods recently, so I repacked and flushed the ancient M737 SPDs using the time-honoured method of filling the body 1/3 full of grease and screwing the bearing assembly back in.
I can't recommend this grease highly enough. It is an absolute bugger to wash off your hands, but it really works - the M737s never had lip seals so the grease fill is the only thing keeping 8 inches of floodwater out of the innards. Designed for wheel bearings in boat trailers.
https://www.force4.co.uk/item/Ramonol/Universal-Grease-150g-Tube/GMO
A 500g tub is much better value. Is there anything special about that particular grease, or would any marine grease be similar?
I use K99 which is much the same at half the price. Cost is not really a factor as a 500g pot will last a lifetime* if you're using for bike purposes. The more expensive one is rated to higher temperatures, again not a relevant difference for bike bearings.
Aha - only £7. Now we're talking!
P.s. what was the asterisk for?!?
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Ramonol Universal is calcium based (calcium sulphonate is the soap). There are other Ramonol greases. Castrol CL used to be the easiest calcium grease to get, but is now discontinued.
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https://www.force4.co.uk/item/Ramonol/White-Grease-500g/G9C
Oh, I didn't notice Ramonol Universal Grease and White Grease are two different greases.
There's also Ramonol Advanced Grease:
https://www.force4.co.uk/item/Ramonol/Advanced-Grease-500g/GBR
Does Ramonol have their own website?
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I have been using Finish Line (white) Premium Grease for +10 years years, and it is the best grease for cup-and-cone bearings I know of. It doesn't wash out easily, nor does it break down. It has a nice texture (not too runny nor too stiff), and because of the colour, it is easy to gauge how contaminated the grease is when inspecting a hub. When inspecting my hubs, even after years of usage, there have always still been adequate grease inside. I have never lost a hub to wear nor corrosion since I started using this grease.
IMHO, the most important properties for a grease is that it stays where it is put, and neither wash out nor emulsify with water, nor deteriorate into white powder like early Lithium Greases tended to do.
Corrosion inhibitors and EP (Extreme Pressure) additives are proven to work and can potentially save money, so I would personally always buy a grease with such additives.
I used to buy my grease in tubes so they fitted my grease gun, but I have now given up on such bicycle brand grease guns (tried Pedro's and Finish Line's models). The problem is that the grease tend to stiffen up inside if they haven't been used a while, and at the same time, Finish Line made the top of their grease tube very flimsy, so the seal breaks easily.
Bought a mini grease gun with a short "needle" for grease with NLGI 2 consistency, and that can be refilled from a tub. It is similar to this Dualco: (https://www.cyclesense.co.uk/smsimg/412/18838-0-main-2dul-gun-412.jpg)
That was a massive upgrade, and cheaper grease to boot. Highly recommended.
For cables, I use Shimano's cable (silicone) grease. Silicone grease is simply superior in every way to ordinary oil and grease when it comes to wire lubrication.
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It's got groove it's got meaning
Grease is the time, is the place is the motion
Grease is the way we are feeling
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I have an unopened tin of lanolin that was left over from WW2. Apparently lanolin was used by the Army Special Boat Service to defeat the Nazis. I had quite a lot of it when I had boats, it was excellent stuff for use on electrics.
There is a modern version:
Coming from a lanolin base means Lanoguard doesn’t damage the environment.
Being non-toxic there is also no need for protective clothing and it does not stain.
Lanoguard is non-conductive to 70kVA so it can be used around most batteries without issue
It can resist jet washing to 200 bar
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No good for vegans, though.
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And if it didn't work you'd feel sheepish
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There were no vegans used on my boats.
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I have an unopened tin of lanolin that was left over from WW2. Apparently lanolin was used by the Army Special Boat Service to defeat the Nazis. I had quite a lot of it when I had boats, it was excellent stuff for use on electrics.
There is a modern version:
Coming from a lanolin base means Lanoguard doesn’t damage the environment.
Being non-toxic there is also no need for protective clothing and it does not stain.
Lanoguard is non-conductive to 70kVA so it can be used around most batteries without issue
It can resist jet washing to 200 bar
Looks like someone got the units wrong!
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No good for vegans, though.
How many vegan nazis do you know?
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So jet washing won't clean a dirty sheep?
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....... with cooking oil. Worked perfectly.
Might not be recommended for bikes though, not even chains.
Also worked perfectly for me on a very dry and squeaky chain. Usual café stop found it very amusing and now offer if to other cyclists in need of lubrication!
Also an acceptable replacement for massage oil on stage races if we ran out.
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I use K99 which is much the same at half the price. Cost is not really a factor as a 500g pot will last a lifetime* if you're using for bike purposes. The more expensive one is rated to higher temperatures, again not a relevant difference for bike bearings.
Aha - only £7. Now we're talking!
P.s. what was the asterisk for?!?
I was going to add that I get through a pot every couple of years cos I also use it on my stern gland, but decided it was (a) irrelevant to the topic; and (b) might easily be misunderstood ;)
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Does anyone actually know what Dura-ace grease is?
It's often claimed to be Motorex 2000, but it isn't. The consistency is slightly different, and M2000 is made in Switzerland, whereas DA grease is a German product.