Author Topic: Bromie advice  (Read 7124 times)

Beardy

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Bromie advice
« on: 19 November, 2011, 05:36:29 pm »
Okay ma doke, Mrs B hath agreed on the purchase of a folding velo for the man in the red suit to deliver in a month or so. But I is now bewildered. Yes, the dream brompton was a lightweight ti with SON and a brooks saddle, possibly with a rohloff conversion. But now that I'm faced with the real dilemma of spending money on one, I'm dithering. Obviously the dream bike is not a sensible purchase, especially as I'm actually intending to use the B in the role for which it was conceived, towhit, supporting my commute into the BIG CITY.

'kay, so the purpose is stated, now the potential issue. I'm 18 of the Britons stone on a bad day, and a little over 6 of the Britons feet in height. Is the Brompton a sensible option given my dimensions?  I'll assume yes and finish this post of queries.

Will I need a longer than standard seat post?
Is the shimano dynohub reliable or should I bite the bullet and get the SON?
What about handlebar? I was thinking M, but there's the new H due soon. Anyone know mch about this?

Any other suggestions, thing s to avoid?
Oh, and the Laquered finish, is it upto the rigours of a commute, or is it just a gimmick?

Thanks

Paul
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Wowbagger

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Re: Bromie advice
« Reply #1 on: 19 November, 2011, 05:41:47 pm »
I think you would benefit from the extended seatpost. I'm fairly similar in height and mass to your good self, but I'm rather short in the leg for my height and can get away with a standard post.
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rogerzilla

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Re: Bromie advice
« Reply #2 on: 19 November, 2011, 06:57:44 pm »
Will I need a longer than standard seat post?

Yes, if your BB to saddle top distance is more than about 28".

Is the shimano dynohub reliable or should I bite the bullet and get the SON?

I actually prefer Shimano dynohubs but they are not very serviceable when the bearings wear out.  I wouldn't worry about that too much.

What about handlebar? I was thinking M, but there's the new H due soon. Anyone know mch about this?

S gives the most normal "fast" riding position.  M is rather flexy and upright, but it's personal.

Any other suggestions, thing s to avoid?

The titanium option saves very little weight and (although I did it) isn't worth it on a grams per £ analysis.  The main advantage is that the rear triangle doesn't rust out.   The worst thing is that you can't carry a pump, and that's where about 10% of the weight saving comes from.

Oh, and the Laquered finish, is it upto the rigours of a commute, or is it just a gimmick?

Most lacquered steel bikes (Salsa used to do it for a few MTBs) rust under the lacquer fairly quickly.  You might like the effect.
Hard work sometimes pays off in the end, but laziness ALWAYS pays off NOW.

Re: Bromie advice
« Reply #3 on: 19 November, 2011, 07:46:39 pm »
My Brompton was specifically bought for use on public transport, which means a lot of carrying it around. So I wanted it to be as light as possible. Therefor I did not want hub gears or a hub dynamo. I'm not planning on any long dark routes with it, so battery lights will do just fine.
I am 177cm, 5' - 9 7/10" in your money. My pants are usually 32" long. I have the extended seatpost and am glad I have it.
I got myself a (lucky) S2-LX. The titanium was the lucky bit, since I was told ordering by request would've taken >6 weeks and I needed it 3 weeks ago I went looking around for a one or two speed with S-steer, and found this S2-LX with discount.

I find the ride quite harsh on my wrists with the S-steer and Kojaks on 8bar on anything but smooth tarmac, but on that it's amazingly quick. I weigh only about 10st though. I should put the M+ back on it for winter.
Oh, I couldn't get on with the supplied saddle so I bought me a Brooks Swallow Ti.
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Re: Bromie advice
« Reply #4 on: 19 November, 2011, 08:17:20 pm »
An M tye will be a slight lean forward for you, the new H type would be sit-up-and-beg, no bad thing given the short saddle-bars distance.  I'm about the same height and get on well with an M.  You'll definitely need the extended seatpost, and I also specced the firm suspension block (which is just right, not firm) and a Brooks saddle.  The dynohub will be fine but LED toches with rechargeable AAs are nearly as practical and cheaper.  Think abouut getting Marathon tyres on from the start too, the last thing you want to be doing on a Brommie is fixing a puncture on a dark wet night.

Biggsy

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Re: Bromie advice
« Reply #5 on: 19 November, 2011, 08:21:20 pm »
The S Type really does give a sporty position when you're over 6', so be warned.

Definitely select the Firm suspension block.

If you would use low gears on another bike for the route, then you should get the Lowered 6-speed option for the Brommie, IMO.  Otherwise the 3-speed is a safe bet; the single speed is for low weight and cost.

The rack option with Eazy Wheels is great if you want to push the folded bike along like a piece of wheeled luggage, otherwise don't bother with a rack for commuting.  The S-Bag to go on the front is nice and big, and has loads of handy pockets.

I recommend ordering from Simpson Cycles if you can't get to a local dealer.
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rogerzilla

  • When n+1 gets out of hand
Re: Bromie advice
« Reply #6 on: 19 November, 2011, 09:00:16 pm »
The best all-round tyres for a Brompton are Marathon Plus.  They only just fit.  You will need to junk the useless factory rim tape, which doesn't fit the well of the rim, and use 10mm Velox if you want to be able to get the tyres on.

From experience, Schwalbe Kojaks don't roll brilliantly and they give a very hard ride.  The old Stelvios seemed better.  If you want a cheap(ish) fast tyre, the Brompton ones are just fine.
Hard work sometimes pays off in the end, but laziness ALWAYS pays off NOW.

Re: Bromie advice
« Reply #7 on: 21 November, 2011, 10:30:44 pm »
I commute on my Brompton daily.

+1 for Marathon+ tyres
I'm 6'1 and use the extended seat post. Depending on your exact dimensions, you can get a bit more height depending on which way up the pentaclip is oriented. at 6'1 the post is all the way up for me, which works well as I know I'll get exactly the same seat height each time.

I like the M bars - as someone said, they do give a slight lean forward position when you are on the tall side.

Depending on terrain, choose gearing. I have 6 speed, but find the BWR hub to be very far apart in ratios, so am glad of the half step gearing. I do have several small hills, so the the overall range is nice. I went for the reduced gearing option.

A word on colour - I got white, which I think is pretty, but as a commuter, it does show the muck.

Lastly, luggage. Seriously consider getting the block, frame and one of the bags. They work brilliantly, and the bags themselves are good quality and super practical.


Re: Bromie advice
« Reply #8 on: 21 November, 2011, 10:35:14 pm »
I'm now on the 20% lowered gearing option on a 3 speed by the way, which I find just right for undulating terrain.  If you need to do steep, you'll need the 6 speed really.  My suggestion would be only stick to stock 3 speed gearing if you live somewhere very flat.

The Brompton Easy Wheels are also a worthwhile upgrade to the standard rollers IME.

Mr Arch

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Re: Bromie advice
« Reply #9 on: 21 November, 2011, 11:59:54 pm »
My Brom is a M3 type and I had little choice in how it came as it was pre loved used.

I am 5'10" (5'11" in my cycling boots) and long in the leg and I am finding that the seat post is only just coping at full extension.  Another inch would be nice  :hand: and I might get that by shifting the saddle a little higher on the stem to test.
The three speed is ok but I can do with a higer top gear, in addition to the existing, and I would be tempted to modify it either with a 6 speed conversion or a full SA 8 speed hub.

The weight of the Brom is fine for carrying but that is easy for me to say I don't worry about carrying bike twice the weight.  My Brom often has a full bag of tools, a bottle of water, Haribo, D lock, Haribo, pump, repair kit, waterproof, Haribo and several aluminium torches for lights so I don't worry about the weight.

Carrying folded isn't the only option either.  Both Arch and I have found that sometimes it is easier to carry unfolded.  I hook the nose of the saddle over my shoulder, from behind, and and steady the frame by holding the frame hinge with one hand while the other hand steadys the bars.  I can then run up and down stairs with it and 'chuck it about' as needed.

I have the M bars on mine.  I'd prefer the straight bars but at the same height as the M bars.  Not sure if that is possible though.

Re: Bromie advice
« Reply #10 on: 23 November, 2011, 07:15:06 pm »

The weight of the Brom is fine for carrying but that is easy for me to say I don't worry about carrying bike twice the weight.  My Brom often has a full bag of tools, a bottle of water, Haribo, D lock, Haribo, pump, repair kit, waterproof, Haribo and several aluminium torches for lights so I don't worry about the weight.


Don't forget the Haribo....

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Re: Brommie advice
« Reply #11 on: 23 November, 2011, 07:38:38 pm »
I forgot the best Brommie advice of all.  Buy one!  ;D

Arellcat

  • Velonautte
Re: Bromie advice
« Reply #12 on: 23 November, 2011, 09:02:18 pm »
I have the M bars on mine.  I'd prefer the straight bars but at the same height as the M bars.  Not sure if that is possible though.

I've fitted to my Brompton an Acor/Aber Hallo 50mm riser plus a 25mm riser handlebar.  It works out at about the same height as M-bars but with a little more reach.  I opted for the S-type because I had this sort of mod in mind in order to get more handlebar real estate and a hopefully stiffer less flexible front end, but you could fit the Aber Hallo riser to M-bars too.

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Biggsy

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Re: Bromie advice
« Reply #13 on: 24 November, 2011, 12:09:34 am »
Interesting.  I haven't seen that riser thing before.  What's it like in terms of stiffness and likelyhood to fail?
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Arellcat

  • Velonautte
Re: Bromie advice
« Reply #14 on: 24 November, 2011, 08:01:59 pm »
Interesting.  I haven't seen that riser thing before.  What's it like in terms of stiffness and likelyhood to fail?

Stiffness of the S-type stem plus riser is excellent, as it's all quite overbuilt.  The additional leverage that the setup provides is noticeable though if you give the bike some beans at traffic lights.  The flex occurs at the headtube and in the main frame tube.  In terms of robustness, I rode 500 miles on the original handlebar and have done a further 1100 miles with the riser and carbon handlebar and I'm not worried about things failing anytime soon.  It is a mountain bike handlebar, after all.  :)

There are bar ends fitted too, and since I shortened the (hugely wide) handlebar and therefore lost its glued in metal reinforcing rings, I fitted 1" long pipe end plugs from a box of plumbing parts.

The H-stem setup were it used with flat bars would probably give about the same riding position as my setup, but has the advantage that the stem hinge is higher up, and therefore the handlebars sit higher off the ground when the bike is fully folded.  Brompton hadn't finished inventing the H-bars when I bought my bike, but the Aber Hallo gives you the option of fine-tuning the handlebar position.
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Mr Arch

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Re: Bromie advice
« Reply #15 on: 24 November, 2011, 08:09:01 pm »
Don't forget the Haribo....
Oh yes, I carry a pack or two of Haribo to measure the steepness of hills with.  Average hills are 2 Haribo whereas steeper ones can be up to 6 Haribos.  Not come across a 1 Haribo hill yet. ;D

I've fitted to my Brompton an Acor/Aber Hallo 50mm riser plus a 25mm riser handlebar.  It works out at about the same height as M-bars but with a little more reach.  I opted for the S-type because I had this sort of mod in mind in order to get more handlebar real estate and a hopefully stiffer less flexible front end, but you could fit the Aber Hallo riser to M-bars too.


Thanks, that looks a good mod.

I'll have to look into that option or add a bar tube sized brace across mine both to get more real eastate and to stiffen it up a bit.