Mcshroom's Wet Welsh Wander

[mcshroom]

With injury last summer, I realised that I hadn't been on a proper camping tour for nearly three years, so it was time to put that right. I packed too much stuff into 5 bags, strapped my tent to the top of the rack, and caught the slow train down to Cardiff.

The plan was simple. I was to follow NCN8, the Lôn Las Cymru cycle route from Cardiff to Holyhead off of Anglesey, a ride of a little under 250 miles, and taking in the Brecon Beacons, the Cambrian Mountains and Snowdonia.

Day 1 - Cardiff to Pencelli
Starting off from near Cardiff Central station, I had to pick my way round the busy station traffic, but quickly found my way onto the Taff Trail off-road route, right beside the Millennium Stadium.


Not long after the stadium the route left the streets of Cardiff, and set off along a riverside path through parks and past the Glamorgan Cricket Ground. After leaving the city, and passing under the M4 motorway, the path then continued up into the Welsh Valleys, shadowing the busy A470 road as it pushed past former mining towns and on many stretches along old railway lines, slowly climbing as it went. Unfortunately the weather was not in a good mood, and rain started falling on the way to Pontypridd, less than 15 miles into the day. This rain would hang around for most of the rest of today's ride.

Just South of Merthyr Tydfil, the route suddenly dropped down sharply into a valley, over a very steep old bridge, and then back up a stepped slope to above the main road it was shadowwing.


Skirting round Methyr, however, on a large viaduct, the route then changes. Tarmac is replaced by hard pack gravel, and the industrial buildings of the start of the route were replaced by trees and rivers, as I set off into the Black Mountains. One sight that I would imagine would be stunning in better weather was riding along the top of the dam on the Pontsticill Reservoir. However with the wind blowing strongly from the South, and the rain falling hard, today it was not putting on it's best show.



Leaving the reservoir I met another cycletourist, who was getting very cold in the rain, but pressing on to Swansea. With the headwind I hope he was ok. Then it was time to skirt round the side of the reservoir, and up over a very windy pass in the Taff Fechan Forest, before turning onto a rough forestry track to carefully navigate my loaded tourer along the edge of Talybont reservoir, back down into a valley. Thankfully the rain stopped as I was riding down the track, and then it was a cold but dry finish at Pencelli Castle Cap Site, right on the NCN8 route.

I checked in, pitched my tent next to a hard standing plot where the ground was drier, and then gratefully took full use of the site's drying room

So my first day was done. The weather had hidden the views of the Black Mountains, but I was pitched, and it was off to Brecon and to meet the Wye Valley tomorrow.

[mcshroom]

Day 2 - Pencelli to Rhayader

The skies cleared overnight, and today was to be the best weather of the trip. It was a little cold at the start though, with a frost on the tent when I woke up in the morning.


I packed up the bags in the sunshine, and headed off north to Brecon along a beautiful canal towpath



From Brecon the route then got hilly. Not that it looked hilly on the map, but Sustrans, in their efforts to avoid using a main road, picked a route that was aimed up short sharp shocks before topping out at around 300m up and then diving back down into the valley at Talgarth



I stopped at a pub on the edge of Talgarth that sold food, but they only sold the menu of their adjoining fish and chip shop, which I didn't fancy, so I diverted off of the NCN route down to Three Cocks where I found a garden centre cafe to refuel. Childishly I decided I needed this photo


From Three Cocks I rejoined the route on the banks of the River Wye, and the ride from here to Builth Wells followed the river, with some wonderful spring scenery before crossing the big stone bridge at Builth Wells


Then it was on further north, into deepest mid-Wales, on to Rhayader, where I checked into the campsite, and found I had the whole camping field, and shower block to myself for the night


More to follow after I've had dinner

[Ruthie]

<drums fingers>

[woollypigs]

<Picks nose>

[Canardly]

Tum ti tum, he's fallen asleep.......

[Ruthie]

Marcus, leave the washing up will you?

[mcshroom]

Day 3 - Rhayader - Dolgellau Cader Idris
I woke to another dry morning, but it was obvious that it wasn't going to stay that way. There were two options for the route. Either head out onto the A470 which went past the entrance to the campsite, or drop back over the river and follow the back road route. Looking at the traffic I chose the second option.


This started with a short sharp climb, and then turned into an up and down network of back roads, starting with a little mud on the sides, then mud in the middle, and eventually, after passing through a gate, mud almost instead of the road. This was one of the poorest surfaces I rode, and for added fun there was an audience of sheep who seemed to be stood waiting to watch me fall off. I didn't give them the satisfaction though

Passing through another gate (and persuading a horse to let me through) I carried on towards the top of the LLC South map at Llandiloes. It had been slow going, and the rain had caught me up so I headed into town to shelter and then get some lunch. In the middle of Llandoes is a preserved wooden building, with a very nice bench hidden underneath it out of the rain.


Two shops away from there was a quirky little bistro, which served very nice coffee. As the rain poured down outside, and the streets were running like rivers, I decided climbing over past Foel Fadian, over 500m up was probably not very sensible, so instead rode north west to Caersws, and caught the train to a cloud enveloped Machynlleth


From the station I set off into Snowdonia National Park


The route again followed a river valley (The Afon Dulas), but was climbing steadily. Eventually with the light failing, I abandoned the NCN8 route for the better graded A487 on the other side of the river. Not far from the top of the pass I spotted a sign for a campsite, on a farm perched on the side of Cader Idris, and decided that was far enough, rolled down the path to the campsite and booked in for the night. While I was pitching the tent a walker in a different tent, came over and gave me a very big mug of tea

He and his friend had travelled up from Essex, and were waiting for some decent weather to climb the mountain.

[mcshroom]

<drums fingers>

<Picks nose>

Tum ti tum, he's fallen asleep.......

It takes a little while to put these together (especially while watching the tv as well )

Marcus, leave the washing up will you?

It's in the dishwasher

[Ruthie]

He aten't dead!  Oh, good.

[mcshroom]

Day 4 - Cader Idris to Caernarfon
I got up early and was packed over an hour earlier than normal trying to catch up from yesterday. My plan was to ride to Dolgellau, get some breakfast, then head up the coast to Harlech, catch the train over a bridge where the road was closed, and then cycle to a campsite 9 miles south of Caernarfon for the night. The view from the campsite was quite spectacular.


The climb to the top of the pass was slow, in very low gears, but on reaching the top I flew down the other side, completely missed where the cycle route crossed the main road (despite cyclist warning signs and my GPS), so rode down the A470 from the Cross Foxes Inn to Dolgellau, including down an 8% hill at over 60km/h at one point

In Dolgellau I was served an amazing breakfast in the Popty'R Dref Tea Rooms and Bakery (amazing in that it was well stocked, and the breakfast, coffee and an orange juice came to a princely £6)


While I was eating, the rain caught me up, and I set off down Lôn Mawddach to Barford, following the edge of the estuary. Then over the bridge to Barmouth itself (oh, and I got the bike up the ramp at the end  )



There was a train waiting to go South in Barmouth, and it was tempting to jump on the next one north there, but after a not very quick stop at Barmouth Coop, I decided to race the train to Harlech. This was a good choice. Although I needed to keep moving, and the skies were still grey and wet, there are some great views off the coast road out into the Irish sea. I will have to go back some time when the weather's better.

Didn't quite make it to Harlech, and, worrying about the 2 hour wait if I missed the train, I diverted to Llanbedr station 3 miles south. As I reached the station I realised it was on the road to Shell Island, a tidal island with a campsite I stayed on with my old Scout group 15 years ago. I also met a couple other people waiting for the train who asked what I was doing, whether it was for charity etc., and informed me that the afternoon was due to be wet. I didn't realise quite how wet that would be though.

When I left the train at Porthmadog it was torrential. I looked into catching the Welsh Highland Railway, but that doesn't run until April, so I had no choice but to get on and ride. It was that wet that I chickened out of camping, and decided to push on to Caernarfon where there was a hostel. Unfortunately the hostel had no beds available when I phoned them, so in the end I booked into the Travelodge.

So it was time to climb out of Porthmadog. I followed NCN8, but it got very steep and gravelly, and I lost my GPS at a gate (thankfully it was still there when I got back). Then I decided against that route, and after checking the map under the entrance to the local hospital, I set off up the A487, in a downpour with water flowing back down the road at me (did I mention it was wet?)

Rejoining the route, with an episode of the 'Number One Ladies Detective Agency' confusing me on the radio headphone in my ear, I followed the roads round until they met an old railway line down to Caernarfon. From there on in I was on a mission. I wasn't stopping until the hotel. 5cm deep floods on the roads weren't going to stop me, the rain wasn't, but my feet were getting very wet and squelchy.

About 6 miles out, I decided to stop under a road bridge and check my shoes. Out of each a significant volume of mucky water poured when I turned them over. While I was doing this I was passed by a local commuter who gave me a stare - well I suppose pouring out the contents of your shoes over a fence is not entirely normal behaviour.

After that I rode on (more comfortably) down. along side the Highland railway route at the end and up, round the Castle to the town square. Finding another dry canopy I warmed my fingers up enough to work my phone's touch screen, then looked up the hotel, and headed in, dripping all over the floor.

I have to say the receptionist was great, even offering me extra towels to park my bike on. I decided this wouldn't be fair (I guessed the drips would kill the nice white towels), but I parked the bike on two Jay Cloths I'd been carrying, and arranged my wet kit out all round the room. I have to say the smell in there in the morning wasn't the best

[mcshroom]

Day 5 - Caernarfon to Holyhead
The rain had moved east by the morning, and, after quarantining the still wet clothes in a dry bag and repacking the bike, I headed down to the Castle to take photos, stopping at the Morrisons on the way to pick up some food. The castle must have been incredibly imposing when it was built. I suppose it had to be as it was there to subdue the locals.



I also headed over the swing bridge to get a better look. On the way back I thought this sign banning fat people pushing bikes over the bridge was a bit personal!


Then it was out of town, back onto another railway line, passing a group of walkers along the way who didn't believe I'd cycled through the weather the day before. All along this track I could see Anglesey, and feel the easterly headwind that was trying to push the rain back at me.


The route gets a bit bitty, dropping down to the seafront, then climbing back up to the railway line, then back down the hill again, and up a steep slope just before passing under the A55 and heading down to the Menai Bridge.


I made the bridge before the rain (just, it was spitting), and started heading back West and North to Holyhead. After a bit of unexpected steep climbing past a cricket ground, the route turns out onto rural back roads very like the West Cumbrian Coast, but probably with more sheep. It was nice rolling countryside with very few cars, and by now I seemed to be moving much better on the bike. I was looking for a cafe, but non turned up, so I kept on going and going, eventually stopping at a bench on a road junction having given up on there being hot food around.


On the way to Holyhead, I saw two shops. One Post Office in Bethel, and a Spar at RAF Valley, which I wasn't sure if I could even go to as there were signs all over the road saying you needed to report to the guards. You get a great view of the airfield as you go round it, though there was nothing flying as I went past. On the way over the Causeway to Holy Island, however, I got a flypast by a fast jet (that I didn't catch on camera)and a helicopter


After the causeway it was a short ride into Holyhead, and to the end of the route at the port. I couldn't find any signs saying that's where it finished, so an Anglesey Coastal Path sign had to do instead



Done it! And the rain didn't keep up

I checked into the hotel I was staying in, left the bags, and decided to wander up to the breakwater round the north of the bay. Stena Ports now own it, and there's signs all over saying not to go on the breakwater, but I walked a little way out and took some pictures of the coast, and the ferries to and from Ireland that were passing

[mcshroom]

Overall I'd say it's a good route. There's a lot of hills, often short, sharp and unmarked on the map. However if the weather holds off then there are some wonderful views. I got some glimpses of bits, but there was a lot more to see.

Also I really enjoyed riding through the rural middle of Wales. The people seemed very friendly, and the roads were quiet. In general though, there are some rather poor surfaces on parts of the route. I went with 35mm Marathons and they handled everything, but I wouldn't want to try some parts on a road bike. Also the anti cyclist gates at the southern end of the Taff trail are annoyingly frequent and awkward to navigate on a loaded tourer.

If you fancy a few more photos, then the full album is here: -
https://plus.google.com/photos/115373950768738153823/albums/6126506292901965729

[woollypigs]

Beautiful thanks for sharing

[Wowbagger]

Good stuff, Marcus!

Just in case you should forget, this is what Caernarfon Castle looks like in the rain.



And here is the 2013 All-comers' Wales Laundry-drying Champion of 2013.

[mcshroom]

Oh and another thing, I realised I need to get some better waterproofs, but the using sealskinz socks in wet shoes the day after rain works well

[Kim]

Sandals, that's what you need for Welsh touring.  Here's some getting rained on at Talsarnau:



Merino socks for riding in (as dictated by temperature) and SealSkinz for keeping your feet warm and dry while wandering about seem to be the winning combination.

[Canardly]

Really good write up as usual Marcus, thanks for posting.

[Ray 6701]

Inspirational Marcus!  I think the Dave Yates may be getting a triple 

[Peter]

Excellent, Marcus!

[JohnR]

Looks like you had a good adventure, nice write-up, thanks for sharing.
John

[Tail End Charlie]

Great write up mcshroom, bet your fingers and toes looked like prunes after that rain! Really enjoyed reading it.

[caerau]

Very nice - I began my cycling career on those bits of the Taff trail you post up top - very familiar but it's been a while.  I originally intended just to ride off road on that and other sustains type routes until I grew to hate those steps (flood defence before Aberfan iirc), the continual barriers across it and the poor surfaces and emerged onto the road and the audax scene.  You just took me back a couple of nice years there thanks for that   Rest of it look very memorial of one  Byran Chapman

[bobb]

Enjoyed that, nice one 

[Ruthie]

Lovely write-up mcshroom.  What a shame you didn't get better weather, it really is potluck isn't it.  Me and Crusty had a wee bit of sunshine when we did a similar route, but we had an awful lot of rain too 

Would you go back?

[mcshroom]

I'd definitely go back, but would really hope for better weather so I could see the countryside I was riding through

I think if I did it again I'd catch the train out of Cardiff a few stops to get into the more rural stuff, and maybe take the NCN5 route round the north side of Anglesey. 50 miles a day was probably a little far for me in the terrain south of Dolgellau with that much kit, so losing the first few miles and shortening the route a bit would relax the pace a little.