Plumbing - are these flexi tap tails too flexed?

[Ashaman42]

I had to fit a new kitchen tap today and the geometry of the existing pipework wasn't ideal. The previous tap had copper tails that went onto a compression elbow joint.

After lots of swearing trying to get spanners into a configuration to undo the elbow without bending the pipework anywhere else or popping any other joints I go the old tap out and the new tap in.

The new tap has the flexi tails fitted directly onto the old compression fitting which I think is okay from some googling around (I've just enough knowledge to be dangerous I think  ) The tails are a bit too long, have I bent them too far to fit into the space or is this ok?






I think the next easiest option would be to cut the pipework below the elbow and above the T-junction in the image below  and either get pushfit tails or fit a straight fitting. I think though that the current tails will be not quite long enough for that and I'd need to get longer (but not too much longer) tails.



I dont think anything is leaking at the moment but there was obviously some water left in the tap pipework once I'd isolated them so everything is a little wet and it's hard to tell what's drips and what's (if anything) leaking/weeping joints.

[Russell]

They don't look too flexed to me but I have no qualifications in plumbing, just 40 years dabbling.

Yes, ideally you would cut back to straight pipework but if you need to buy additional stuff then I wouldn't bother. It's fine as it is.

[Gattopardo]

Looks fine to me.

[robgul]

They don't look too flexed to me but I have no qualifications in plumbing, just 40 years dabbling.

Yes, ideally you would cut back to straight pipework but if you need to buy additional stuff then I wouldn't bother. It's fine as it is.

Ditto - but an extra 10 years on the dabbling .... wait and see if you get a problem 

However if you're unhappy - it's a little difficult to see but you could try loosening the compression elbow where the hot connects to swivel it round a little to reduce the flexing - risk is that the olive doesn't bite again but PTFE would probably sort that.

[Kim]

I'd only worry about it if it leaks.

[Tim Hall]

Tactical loo roll applied to a wiped-dry joint is a good tell tale for leakage.

[Ashaman42]

Cheers everyone. I can stop worrying now (I won't, it is my skill after all but maybe I'll worry less at least).

I've dried it all off as best I can and I'm just checking it every so often. I'll leave the under cupboard stuff out for the time being till I'm happy. And I'll keep a screwdriver in there next to the isolators.

There's a slight almost but not quite kink at the top of the hot one but it's not properly kinked so I guess it'll be ok.

At least the kitchen taps have isolators unlike the bathroom ones.

[Valiant]

I try to avoid angles more than 120 degrees as otherwise it can affect waterflow but otherwise ok.

[Feanor]

The bending of the flexi-hose is OK.

But the compression fitting is not really the right one for this application.

Although the flexi-hose thread fits onto the fitting, it's not really the right thing.
That's a compression fitting looking up, and it's really designed to seal using an olive.
It's not really designed to face-seal against a washer.
The shoulder looking up will be quite sharp, where the cone is designed to accept the olive.
The flexi-hose *might* give an acceptable seal against this, but as I say it's not really the right thing.

A proper tap coupler will have a 1/2BSP thread looking up, but a flat square shoulder which the washer inside the flexi-hose nut assembly will face-seal against.

Something like this:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/compression-adapting-male-coupler-15mm-x-/69358

[Ashaman42]

Cheer Feanor.

I did find that sort of coupler when googling around and I did see some discussion of compression fittings vs those wrt pointiness and the like. But some said that compression fittings work okay and that saves buying the fittings, and different length flexi tails, and a different pipe cutter because of course the one I have can't phase through walls. Or instead of fittings get pushfit flexitails (and yes I've seen a several of forum threads arguing the merits of soldered vs compression vs pushfit joints  ).

I figured suck it and see - if it seals ok now excellent and if not buy the stuff I'd have had to buy anyway. It should be ok longer term shouldn't it? As there's not really much movement going on?

[Feanor]

I'd take the pragmatic approach.
If it's sealing OK, then leave it be.

[Jurek]

^Word.

[Ashaman42]

Cheers everyone.

I might isolate the taps overnight tonight at least, give them a full day of checking before I trust them entirely. I'm nothing if not paranoid.

[Russell]

I had a thought as I was doing the washing up!

You could cut down to straight pipe, fit a pair of ball valves with compression joints on both sides.  That should raise the connection so that the flexis will reach.  A short stub could be fitted to give a bit more height.

I would always fit isolating valves on a tap connection.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/isolating-valve-with-handle-15mm/89226

[Canardly]

Flexibles with inline isolators are readily available.

[Ashaman42]

There are isolators a bit further down the line just before where the hot and cold split to supply the washing machine and kitchen sink.

Though I guess there isn't anything stopping me putting more in if it helps getting the tails fitted better.

[Canardly]

They look ok to me. If your water pressure at the tap is good then no need to worry.

[Ashaman42]

Yeah water runs fine, and unlike the old tap doesn't piss out of the pivot and run over the back of the sink onto the counter and then all over the place

I do need to pour some water round the tap base to check it's sealed against the sink but that can wait till tomorrow.

[Basil]

I'd take the pragmatic approach.
If it's sealing OK, then leave it be.

↑

I prefer this approach to 'Fix it until it needs fixing' any day.

[mrcharly-YHT]

A bit late to this party but my 2c

The angles are fine.

Don't overtighten the flex connectors - it just distorts the rubber washers and creates weeping leaks.

An application of a small amount of fernox LS-X on these joints helps sealing.