Threaded headsets - what do I need to know?

[Tim Hall]

One of the headsets on the Pino is shagged. It's over 20 years old, I can't lock the lock nut down, as it bottoms out on the top of the steerer, and it's notchy.

I'm looking at a Stronglight A9 in steel, as they're not very spendy.  Back in the day, A9s were fitted with roller bearings but a bit of poking around on the web suggests the steel ones are ball bearing these days. Should I worry?

I might even replace both headsets. (The first is for the pilots handlebars, which connect by a tie rod to the front forks where the second is)

Any pitfalls or other gotchas I should look out for?  I have a length of studding with nuts and washers to press the new one home.

[LittleWheelsandBig]

A thin spacer between headset locknut and adjusting nut stops the locknut bottoming on the steerer. Replacing a notchy headset is the right thing to do though.

There is no need to replace the pilot’s headset as there are no impact forces (potholes) that can cause headset damage and the races are more widely spaced.