Speaking of IPA, I have some Whitstable Bay which I shall be drinking later, but first this, while I can still type...
Choice of tissue.
a) Domestic. Relatively heavy, no wet strength.
b) "Esaki". Dearer than domestic. Good wet strength. Rumour is that it's not being made any more. There *are* comparable tissues so ask around.
Choice of Doping compounds.
a) Solvent based. Shrinking and non-shrinking. Various compositions available.
b) Non solvent based. Only know of one ATM. EzeDope by Deluxe Materials. Of which more later.
Tissue Fixative
a) Tissue paste. Various mfrs. As far as the tube that came with the kit goes, ask yourself if you'd trust the glue that came with a 20 YO tube repair kit.
b) Dope
c) PVA. Thinned
d) Glue stick and PVA.
What follows is *not* prescriptive. Others will have their preferred way of working and will swear blind that it is the one true way. Bollocks. Whatever works best for you is the way to go.
I haven't used dope to fix tissue to an airframe since 1973. It was straight-forward and some of the (even) older builders still use it. Especially for under-cambered ribs.
My preferred technique is to use glue stick, UHU for pref. - consistency is good, to put a thin bead around the edge of the piece being covered and then fix the tissue in place, teasing out the worst of the wrinkles and bags. When the glue has cured properly (min. of a couple of hours) I then go over this with water thinned PVA (50% by volume) using a fine, 00, paint brush gently rubbing the glue in with the dampened end of the brush.
Working this way means you can use domestic tissue without too much stress. Thinned PVA and domestic tissue under tension is not a good combination.
Doping.
I use two approaches.
For a single colour domestic tissue finish with very small areas of tissue decoration Deluxe Materials EzeDope. The first coat, 5% by volume with water, is misted on. You can buy small pump sprays in the travel section of Boots and the like. The second and subsequent coats, 30% by vol, can be brushed or sprayed on. You have to be v. careful with EzeDope & domestic tissue, see the earlier point about wet strength. Deluxe recommend using "Esaki" or similar for obvious reasons. It can be used in the house without choking everyone else and it can be sent through the post. I've used it for models up to 36" span.
If I'm doing a two or three colour tissue finish, the Ju87's splinter camouflage is a good example, I'll use thinned non shrinking dope (30% by volume with cellulose thinners or more dilute depending on size of model) after steam shrinking the tissue. You can buy dope by electronic mail order, but it has to be shipped by courier so can work out very expensive if that's all you're buying.
Companies.
Vintage Model Company
SLEC
Balsa Cabin
Free Flight Supplies - A one man band, but good.
And I strongly suggest that you sign up at the Hip Pocket Aeronautics forum where you will get some *real* expert help rather than my idiotic ramblings.