Separate brake question

[finch]

Can anyone link me what I need in terms of hoses and stuff to hook up a set of road hydro STI
Currently have only the shifters with the large flange nuts and the calipers with the normal nuts so would need hoses , fittings and a bleed kit with mineral oil

Also are normal snips and grips good enough to cut the hoses and insert the wee things ?

[The Family Cyclist]

I'd recommend popping to a local hydraulic supplier who idnimagmine will be cheaper or equivalent to genuine and able to cut to exact length

[Hot Flatus]

There are two sizes of Shimano hose, and they use different inserts.

I think you can use either size of hose, but just make sure you get the correct insert. For bleed kit, just get one off Ebay or Epicbleed (who probably have the hoses and inserts barbs)

https://epicbleedsolutions.com/blogs/articles/bh59-or-bh90-which-insert-do-i-need



Normal cable cutters are fine. For pushing in the insert I use a Toolpre tool which cost £12

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/176384302876?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=8eqoztxwtf-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=fafun6UAQEW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

[finch]

Thanks - I’m super keen to learn how to do this myself

[grams]

Bicycle hydraulic hoses can be cut with a sharp knife.

You just need hoses (BH90 or BH59. BH90 is allegedly better, but it probably doesn't matter), barbs (needs to match the hose type), olives (universal), a block for gripping the hose while you hammer in the barb (yellow thing below) and fluid and bleed bits.

Genuine Shimano stuff is sadly a bit pricey for what you get:
https://www.merlincycles.com/shimano-sm-bh90-jk-straight-brake-hose-kit-132241.html

MTB stuff is all compatible with road apart from the lever nut, so don't worry if it says "DEORE" or "XTR" or whatever. Just don't buy anything that mentions "banjo".

[Hot Flatus]

Fitting it is easy. Fit the insert. The barb tool is worth £10 even if you and use it a couple of times.

Use Shimano dealer manual for instructions on how to bleed. It's worth taking your time with this and not rushing. Main tip is DO NOT overtightened the level bleed post cap. They don't need to be super tight and they strip very easily.

[Hot Flatus]

block for gripping the hose while you hammer in the barb (yellow thing below) .

The yellow blocks are a PITA.  The £10 tool thing avoids all the hassle

[finch]

Need to look up how to do the deore style post mount calipers / looks like the bleed port is recessed - imagine you unscrew the doo dah and screw in a tube for the syringe

[Hot Flatus]

Looking at Deore I'd say don't unscrew the nut. It's only for opening the bleed port and it only takes 1/4 turn normally. Just remove cap and push on tube.

[finch]

It’s just a “looks like” to be fair. It’s like this

[Hot Flatus]

Which nut?

[finch]

The recessed one where it says mineral oil looks like the only place you can push fluid into the system

[finch]

Seems you unscrew the bolt , and screw in the filling hose from the bleed kit already full and ready to skoosh , then have the little cup thing screwed into the STI unit - sounds straightforward enough in principle

[Hot Flatus]

How would you then pressurise the system?

Normally you have an Allen key bolt to open and close the port as you squeeze the lever to force bubbles out

[finch]

Instructions for this caliper suggest allowing bubbles to rise out of the master cylinder then pumping the lever to push fluid back down to the caliper end - back and forth - guess I’m just gonna have to give it a bash