Choosing disc brake rotors?

[andyoxon]

The road wheels I have are for centre lock rotors, but what is a good rotor design / shimano range spec to aim for, and, 140mm front & rear, or 160mm front?

[Kim]

To complicate matters, you can get a Centerlock to 6-bolt adaptor (I have one on my SON Delux) which works well - ie. is no more annoying than Centerlock in general.

I've never put any thought into choice of rotors, beyond what came with the brakes.

[Hot Flatus]

Centrelock is most convenient. Disc size is up to you. Bigger disc=more braking power. If you are carrying a load or a bit of a bloater then 160f 140r, otherwise on a race bike 140 f&r is fine IME.

As for brand, I've ditched replacing Shimano rotors with Shkmano, and instead go for Campag Ekar because they last longer and seem to be quieter (cheaper too).

[bobb]

As for brand, I've ditched replacing Shimano rotors with Shkmano, and instead go for Campag Ekar because they last longer and seem to be quieter (cheaper too).

That statement implies you've changed rotors at least twice, which got me thinking what the fuck are you doing to them to keep wearing them out!!? Then I Googled how often people change them and realise that I really need to check mine as the youngest pair I use regularly are a decade old and the oldest nearer two!

[Hot Flatus]

As for brand, I've ditched replacing Shimano rotors with Shkmano, and instead go for Campag Ekar because they last longer and seem to be quieter (cheaper too).

That statement implies you've changed rotors at least twice, which got me thinking what the fuck are you doing to them to keep wearing them out!!? Then I Googled how often people change them and realise that I really need to check mine as the youngest pair I use regularly are a decade old and the oldest nearer two!

Well, I ride quite a lot! Often 150+ miles a week ...and I live in the Cotswolds. In the part with the steepest hills 

I found the Shimano IceTek ones do not last well. Eventually they start to delaminate, sometimes before you reach minimum width.

[ElyDave]

I'm avreging 200km/week, have 3 disc braked bikes, one getting most of the use.  Have not yet needed to replace either discs or pads. But then I'm 70kg and live in the flatlands

[andyoxon]

Thanks all.  I'd looked at Shimano ice tech - perhaps not...  Just when you think 'that's a good deal', you see... 'lockring not included'.

[Hot Flatus]

Lockrings are not much, but as I said maybe try tge Campag discs. Their equivalent of Centrelock is called AFS but it's compatible

[Kim]

Centrelock is most convenient.

I'd say that very much depends on whether you're fettling in the workshop with your cassette lockring tool and hefty spanner, or trying to replace a spoke at the side of the road with a multitool that includes a T25.  "Road wheels" does tend to suggest the former.

That said, I carry a lockring tool in my touring kit.  It's even been used a few times, though mostly on other people's bikes and only once on a disc brake rotor (because I failed to apply a sufficiency of ham-fisted monkey-force to the lockring when I first fitted it).

[quixoticgeek]

Centrelock is most convenient.

I'd say that very much depends on whether you're fettling in the workshop with your cassette lockring tool and hefty spanner, or trying to replace a spoke at the side of the road with a multitool that includes a T25.  "Road wheels" does tend to suggest the former.

That said, I carry a lockring tool in my touring kit.  It's even been used a few times, though mostly on other people's bikes and only once on a disc brake rotor (because I failed to apply a sufficiency of ham-fisted monkey-force to the lockring when I first fitted it).

I have a locking tool in my bag on my bike. I got the really light one from wolf tooth components. Well worth having.

As for rotors. I've also given up on Shimano. I was running the campag ones when I had 160's. But since I upgraded the rotors to 200mm, I have Sram discs.

Very happy with them. I went for the bigger rotors as I was about to start some race that would involve a lot of descents, and I was having literal nightmares about not being able to stop on a hairpin. So my LBS put 200mm rotors on.

Now I have the fun issue that the brakes have more stopping power than the traction in the tyres.

J

[Morat]

It it the caliper mount that determines the size of disk that you caliper will work with?

[Hot Flatus]

Yes, you use adaptors but frames also have size limits.

[Hot Flatus]

Centrelock is most convenient.

I'd say that very much depends on whether you're fettling in the workshop with your cassette lockring tool and hefty spanner, or trying to replace a spoke at the side of the road with a multitool that includes a T25.  "Road wheels" does tend to suggest the former.

That is a very good point, and one which had not occurred to me.

But...personally, at most, I carry a small multi tool with a few Allen sizes, and I certainly wouldn't carry spare spokes.

[Kim]

I find that spare spokes are an excellent way to prevent spoke breakages^[1].  Presumably because the sort of person who's inclined to carry spokes tends to spot problems with their wheels and sort the tension out well before anything fails.  I do have a set of spares attached to my touring bike because it seemed like a good idea when they're lengths that your average bike shop won't stock, but to date they've only ever been used as improvised burglary tools when the front door lock failed.

I've not tried, but there's probably a decent chance of being able to employ one of those Fiberfix things without removing a brake rotor...


_{[1] And IMHO the most convenient place to carry them is between the hub and the rim.}

[quixoticgeek]

It it the caliper mount that determines the size of disk that you caliper will work with?

My frame has IS mounts, which then require an adapter to mount the caliper anyway.

J